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Time for a long and rambling update where one job turns into two others and I still havenāt finished the thing I set out to do. Something Iām sure we can all relate to! It starts with these. Well really it doesnāt, it starts with a used but unused intercooler I bought off FB marketplace for 20 quid. I had trouble finding something a size and shape that would fit in front of the rad and let me get hoses to it. But I didnāt take a specific picture of it. Iād hung it in place with some zip ties off the rad frame brace, and was eyeballing the hardlines Iād have to make. But eyeballing doesnāt get em done, so I started chopping some bits up and tacking them together. Looks pretty trick. Offered into place to see if itāll actually work- Itāll work, just! But, whilst offering everything up and messing about checking bits would fit, I decided I wasnāt happy with the fit of the bonnet. If it was shut all the way down, it was too low at the nose, messing up the line that runs from the bonnet through to the cab. Now I knew this, I needed to sort it. This involved chopping up the front end bracketry, moving up the rad frame bit that the front wings bolt to to move the entire wings and grille up to correct the lines. An inch was enough. Once Iād done that I added some fancier bracing and boxing in to finish it off a bit. Youāll also notice there that Iāve sliced an inch out of the bumper drop brackets too, to move the bumper up as well. It was then refitted, I checked I was happy with the fit, then it was removed again so I could go about doing the next bit, that still wasnāt the intercooler pipes, but mounting the intercooler. First I made some simple brackets to step the intercooler put away from the rad, firstly to fit the fan in for the rad, and secondly so the intercooler inlet/outlet pipes clear the bumper brace bar. With that in position, I could do a fancy lower bracket. Just love the bracket detail DezThose little touches.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Oct 24, 2019 22:02:23 GMT
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great idea to work the assembly off the truck!...I don't have that kind of confidence! well done. JP I donāt think the pics show it that well, but itās seriously heavy duty (and heavy!) so I can bash it about a fair bit without worry of altering its shape much. The drop plates that run down to the bumper irons are 1/4ā thick, that bottom tube is 1/4ā wall gas pipe (so I can jack on it) and the thinnest material anywhere in the entire assembly is 1/8ā thick.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Oct 24, 2019 22:06:52 GMT
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Just love the bracket detail DezThose little touches. You know I loves me a good bracket. Still going to come back and revisit the whole front framework assembly a bit further down the line to pretty-fy itās bracketry a bit more.
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,685
Club RR Member Number: 91
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1947 ford ranger...PhoenixCapri
@phoenixescort
Club Retro Rides Member 91
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Oct 25, 2019 12:41:30 GMT
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This is fantastic and can't believe how well the proportions work, have to be an expect to spot it wasn't quite what it should be. Love it
This is going to get a lot of us thinking about how we could do this ourselves!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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This is fantastic and can't believe how well the proportions work, have to be an expect to spot it wasn't quite what it should be. Love it This is going to get a lot of us thinking about how we could do this ourselves! I really donāt know why more people arenāt using them. Given the minitruck links in the states, it makes them a very adaptable chassis with loads of info out there on modifying them.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Well, I went to the northern swapmeet and spent a whole Ā£35 on myself! Did manage to pick up a few bits for mates though. I went cashed up and ready to buy anything I needed to get this finished, so obviously that meant there was curse word all I needed there! All I bought was a new cowl vent seal for Ā£20, and a couple of 3ā stainless bends for doing the inlet pipework for Ā£15.
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2019 11:14:18 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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So instead I went home and spent even more money on stainless bends for doing the intercooler pipework. This is starting to get expensive tbh, Iāve now done over 130 quid on stainless bends, silicone bends/reducers, mikalor clamps other sundries like rubber mounts. But, I knew the pipework would be convoluted to keep it all hidden/not have to cut big holes in things, so I was expecting the expense. Seeing as Iād already tested it I had space for the lower loops into the intercooler, the first job was make a second, mirror image one for the other side. Oh, I forgot to say the intercooler gained some rubber bobbin mounts, Iād allowed enough clearance between intercooler and front panel for these when Iād made the bracketry. Iāve got to fit a fan and the inlet pipework through the gap between the rad and intercooler yet! Lower loops done. As you can see it was tight on space even with 1.5D bends, I had to extend those 180s round to about 200deg to get them to tuck inside the bumper mounts and point through the gaps under the rad. Once I knew the lower sections would work, I moved up to the motor side of things and started laying out around any obstacles Iād have to go around. There was the main wiring loom and some PAS pipes to navigate on the rhd, so the pipework has to kick out to clear those. That section then joins to the lower loop on a small straight run that passes under the rad, which you can just about see here. The final shape on this side being something like this-
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Ive just about given up on autojumbles, I like a good rummage but it all seems to be rubbish now!
Nice job on the pipework!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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The other side runs a lot further back because of where the turbo is. I elected to keep the pipe high across the top of the engine bay to give access to the alternator adjuster from the side. It then dives down the side of the rad, and kicks under the bottom of the rad in a similar way to the other side. I might still tweak the shape on this side a touch as it bugs me itās not quite symmetricalwirh the other side where it exits at the bottom , but Iāll get a couple of rubber bobbin mounts on the hardline first to locate it more precisely, as it partially sits lower as itās sagging on the joiners/bends because of the weight of such a long run of pipe. But for the minute, I know the intercooler pipework will fit, which was an issue I was becoming worried about! The real test is going to be the inlet pipework though...
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Ive just about given up on autojumbles, I like a good rummage but it all seems to be rubbish now! Nice job on the pipework! I only do the nsra ones as theyāre the only ones really relevant enough to my interests, plus one is less than an hour away from where I live and the other is 15 mins from my parents, so theyāre pretty convenient for me. Thereās very little else that isnāt a huge trek away.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Next update before I forget what I did. I needed a fan for cooling purposes. Because of packaging constraints it has to be a pusher between the rad and intercooler rather than a puller between rad and motor. Because the brace running across there acts as a stress reliever for the rad, I had to keep it intact or the rad becomes a stressed member with the entire weight of the front wings hanging off it. Not good on an ally one. So, I made up a āhoopā for the fan out of 1/2ā bar. Overkill, but easier to form than tube and definately up to the job. The small amount of extra weight (realistically a few hundred grams) Iām not that bothered about, Iām more concerned about my rad not cracking. To form it I dragged a scrap wheel out of the bin, welded one end of the bar to it and then walked it round with the wheel held in the vice. High tech it aint, but simple and quick it is. Cut the weld off and pry it off the wheel and it was just the right diameter š I cut and welded in the two straight bits just cos the fan has two flats on it and I wanted it to be an even gap all round. The 4 little tabs pick up on the mounting slots on the fan (a perma-cool one that came with another project but wasnāt used, so got directed this way as it was about the right size). I even found some proper square-headed bolts for the mounts in the bolts box. Fan fitted up- Then, I chopped the middle out of the brace and tried it for size. I positioned the fan right up to the rad to get it sitting right. Close, but needs to go up a bit. Thatās better. You can see I was happy with that so have welded it in now. So thatās another job off the list. Also got this bit of comedy gold through from ford. How little do they know!
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2019 21:18:23 GMT by Dez
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Dez, you've got to take the truck in for its recall when it's done! And please video the reaction...
I know there aren't any airbags any more, but it'd be brilliant to watch!
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1968 Cal Look Beetle - 2007cc motor - 14.45@93mph in full street trim 1970-ish Karmann Beetle cabriolet - project soon to be re-started. 1986 Scirocco - big plans, one day!
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Great project and a perfect donor vehicle...We have one at work from new which has done 120k..never missed a beat just general services..had to replace rear diff as they are very lively on the rear so drifting is easy especially when the roads are damp..will be a great tool when finished ..
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Sqeaky Deak Classic Mini Van..
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Only just seen this thread - thanks for making an enjoyable Friday night!
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Sometimes, others may not understand why you like a car so much. Sometimes, you may not even understand why you like a car so much. But none of that matters; all that matters is that you like the car, and having it makes you happy.
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This is awesome, thank you for a great read and I canāt wait to see more progress.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 16, 2019 17:22:08 GMT
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Great project and a perfect donor vehicle...We have one at work from new which has done 120k..never missed a beat just general services..had to replace rear diff as they are very lively on the rear so drifting is easy especially when the roads are damp..will be a great tool when finished .. The donor vehicle had astronomical mileage, but I see that as a good thing as it means everything has been replaced, often more than once. This appears to have the diff replaced too. The back end on em Is quite lively...
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 16, 2019 17:23:27 GMT
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Only just seen this thread - thanks for making an enjoyable Friday night! This is awesome, thank you for a great read and I canāt wait to see more progress. Cheers guys. Iāve got tons of photos of more happenings, so Iāll put together another couple of updates.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 16, 2019 18:01:07 GMT
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Next thing I think I messed about with was trying to sort the inlet setup. Itās still incomplete as youāll see shortly. Itās all been rather difficult as I really have nowhere sensible left to put it. I need to mount the MAF before the turbo, then have some sort of filter setup before that. But thereās nowhere in the engine bay left for it really. The other restriction is the inlet pipework has to be 3ā, as that what size pipe the MAF has to fit into. So, I bought a 3ā>2ā reducer bend, to go with the 3ā bends I bought at the swapmeet. Has to be a bend as there no room for anything else because of the alternator. Here it is mocked up, without the wings on. My initial plan was to try to go through the inner wing, along towards the headlight then put it back through into the void in front of the rad, like this- But, there really isnāt room to get a 3ā pipe through there because of the rad/fan/intercooler, so I canāt do that. I did eye this space at the back of the engine bay near the firewall by kicking the bend backwards instead, but itāll be hot air so not ideal. My current thinking is to go out through the inner wing, but then kick the second bend down and have a canister type filter mounted upright below the headlight, and Iāll be able to loop an intake pipe under the bumper mount and into the grille area to draw cleaner air. This area here to be exact. Might even be able to mount it off the unused ranger bumper/body mount. Itāll be in the wheel spray zone, but if itās in a canister (like a cheap CDA type airbox or similar) it wonāt matter. So, I reckoned the next step would be to figure out what else Iām going to use for the system. So I had a look at mounting the MAF into the stainless pipe . For this to be about the same distance from the turbo as it was previously, it would be just inside the inner wing in the engine bay, which is much preferable to it being in the much dirtier under-wing area. After reading up on MAFs, it seems thereās only really a few types, and what I had is the ādensoā type. It originally mounted into the plastic housing that was the top of the airbox (Iāve chopped it out here for mockup purposes) How it sits in a 3ā pipe and why it canāt really go into a smaller one- Removed- The MAF mount is a bit odd, it has raised bosses to stop you over tightening it, the bosses are offset so you canāt fit it back to front, and it has an O-ring seal in the middle. It would be a bit of a faff to fab one, But as MAF sensors are fairly generic, it means there are aftermarket mounts available for them. I managed to find a seller in the states doing the correct type, listed for Subaru applications For the price I elected to buy one, given the amount of hours in making one. A coupe of weeks later, and here it is- The only slight issue is they sent me the wrong bloody one. But their customer services are great, so a correct one is on the way. A bit of a delay but Iāve got plenty of other stuff to do whilst Iām waiting. So if anyone needs stainless denso type MAF mount for 2.5ā tube, let me know!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 16, 2019 18:22:34 GMT
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Also, any bits I had kicking round that were removed were chucked in for blasting when some other things went down there. Tank guard, chassis crossmember for handbrake, battery tray and some bracketry all came back spanking- And were then given a coat of black and put out of the way. Iāve also been spending some money on some fancy bits. These are the first of those to turn up for that there Americaland. I previously bought some yellow fogs to go with the yellow headlights I bought on a whim cos I thought theyād suit it, but I lost them in the fire. That may be a bit of a blessing in disguise as there are SO much nicer Theyāre Dietz 510, 12v with proper yellow lenses, and are in very nice condition with proper original cast swan neck brackets. Need to rework the lower bits of the brackets as they were originally on a Chevy before I can bolt them on, but theyāre gunna be perfect for the look Iām going for.
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Nov 16, 2019 18:36:21 GMT
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Great project and a perfect donor vehicle...We have one at work from new which has done 120k..never missed a beat just general services..had to replace rear diff as they are very lively on the rear so drifting is easy especially when the roads are damp..will be a great tool when finished .. The donor vehicle had astronomical mileage, but I see that as a good thing as it means everything has been replaced, often more than once. This appears to have the diff replaced too. The back end on em Is quite lively... used to drive an early ranger with a tail lift .... that was very entertaining with all that weight right out the back if you had nothing on board!
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating '80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip '97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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