Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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This looks immense. I can only image how good the '34 is going to turn out. Have you driven it further than the yard yet? How many of the luxuries (relative term there) of the '07 are retained? The truck wasn’t that high spec anyway it being a proper commercial with rubber floor mats and wipe clean seats, so the raptored floor and leatherette isn’t that different. Kept- Power steering Power/disc brakes Limited slip diff Obviously all the motor and box related stuff- turbodoesel power, 5 speed, etc. It still has a heater but not the original. Same for wipers. All the dash and warning lights will work as per stock, even down to things like the fuel filter light. Binned- Leccy Windows Central locking ABS Stereo, but I’ll add one back in so I can listen to obnoxious punk rock at a later date, it should be quiet enough inside to be able to hear it. The whole point though was I wasn’t really interested in the interior mod cons, I never have been really. I just wanted it to have a pretty good strong chassis and running gear, it was a work truck before and it’ll still be a work truck now.
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Last Edit: Jun 1, 2021 18:45:43 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Gonna look wicked with the running boards on. Plus we can play "how many people can fit on Dez's truck to get to the RRG show field" with brackets that size. See I was thinking if I should add a couple of lengthways beams under the running boards to act as sliders, but they’d also beef them up to be used appropriately!
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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1947 ford ranger...75swb
@75swb
Club Retro Rides Member 181
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The whole point though was I wasn’t really interested in the interior mod cons, I never have been really. I just wanted it to have a pretty good strong chassis and running gear, it was a work truck before and it’ll still be a work truck now. I have a similar ethos with my T5 van, although central locking is nice, it's a tool for a job to be used as such, and as much as I like it to look nice and be comfortable I'm still going to load it up with curse word and use it. Over here air con would be great in the summer but I'm not spending 100% of what I spent on the van to get it!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Moar reassembly. I reached the point of ‘I’ve f-king had enough of cleaning sh1t’ as it gets to being a game of diminishing returns, so I resembled the engine and box back together, after fitting the clutch and pouring gearbox oil all over the floor. Then the front fell off. The motor/box was dangled- And then inserted. As you can see ive got my technique for this pretty much down now, so I can do it pretty easily, and with only minor gearbag juice spillage. More importantly, no scraped paint.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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With the motor in, I could start refitting other stuff. First I got the motor and box actually Bolted in. I cleaned all the burnt on oil off the exhaust manifold, it was collected on top so only real culprit can be rocker cover gasket. I didn’t bother painting it as it always just burns off, especially when turbos are involved. Speaking of gaskets, I have a new set. This was rather expensive, but oddly every single one is a single use pressed metal one, even for non-heat applications like the inlet and water pump. Which I guess justifies the price. (Best part of £100 for a kit!) Here is a new multi-layer exhaust gasket going on. Oddly the exhaust manifold bits are nord-locks. I have never seen these used in an OEM application ever. Maybe that had issues with them undoing? Turbo was also given a rudimentary clean, regasketed and refitted, and the appropriate plumbing connected up. Continuing working down this side of the motor, I spent far too long looking for the bolts for the thermostat housing before I realised they were actually meant to be studs and nuts. The cleaned up housing went on, and was all connected back up. Next job was the lower rad hose. I’m using the back half of the original, then once it goes straight towards the rad it needs cutting and a jointer into a silicone reducer (enlarger? 🍆) to connect to the rad. Like this- Id bought all the bits ages ago, was just waiting til it was in bits again as access is tight when fully assembled. There’s not too much left to do on this side of the motor now, I’ve got to clean and paint the alternator and that’s the last major bit. I’ve also got to run a hose from the thermostat housing up to the heater, but I think I might partially hardline that as it’s got to go past the turbo/exhaust and there ain’t much room. Jumping over to the other side for the top rad hose, I found this random hose in the box of random discarded hoses from other jobs. I have absolutely no idea what it was off, and it has no markings. But it’s nigh on perfect, once chopped in half. It steps from 47mm to 42mm, and the subtle double bend is close enough to right to work. Would be nice to know what it was off in case I ever need another though! Here I’ve marked up the engine cover for a minor trim so it doesn’t rub on it. I’ll be running the full cover, wouldn’t usually be my thing but it fits so well here. If the hot side of the motor is fairly neat and organised, the cold side is er, very much not. As well as the inlet and emissions stuff, this side has more or less everything heat sensitive mounted on it, so is fairly chaotic. There’s all the wiring, brake and clutch lines, all the fuel lines, filter housing and pump, all the power steering stuff and all the vac system stuff too. At least the steering box isnt this side anymore as well! I’m slowly working through this stuff prioritising the routing for each system, and neatening everything up. Much messing about to do so though...
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Last Edit: Jun 3, 2021 9:03:17 GMT by Dez
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Something very satisfying about this build, modern usable truck that looks 70 years old & is still usable as a work truck.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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More bits have turned up so I could finish some things off. First the unfeasibly small screws for the fuel sender. Bl00dy m4 thread! Although first I remembered I still had 25l of the diesel I’d drained out of the tank still sat around, so I emptied that in through the big hole first. New sender was then bolted in. I then connected up the fuel lines, and repaired the wiring plug. The terminals were corroded and broken but I managed to pry them out and replace with some new ones. It obvious from the corrosion to the sender and wiring that this area acts as a water/dirt trap between the top of the tank and the bottom of the bed, so to prolong the life of the new bits I gave it all a heavy coating of spray grease. The hose and jubilee clips to attach the filler neck had also turned up. You always end up with a few bits where you end up proper backed into a corner on a build like this, and this was one of them. I had to cut the hose down to only 2” long to go between the cab back and the tank, then wiggle it in and get two clips on it whist also bolting down the filler neck mounting flange. This was the huge amount of space i had between the cab back, the bed frame, and the tank! From the inside of the cab (under the seat) this is all you can see. So that’s the fuel tank related bits and bobs sorted. I’m just waiting for some of these things to turn up- To clip down the rest of the rear end wiring loom, then I’m about ready for the bed floor.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1947 ford ranger...Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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First the unfeasibly small screws for the fuel sender. Bl00dy m4 thread! M4? That's positively enormous. My latest stupid RC build has parts held on by M1.2. That IS hard work. Good work man, looks to be getting somewhere close now!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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First the unfeasibly small screws for the fuel sender. Bl00dy m4 thread! M4? That's positively enormous. My latest stupid RC build has parts held on by M1.2. That IS hard work. Good work man, looks to be getting somewhere close now! M1.2 😂 I class anything under m8 as ‘small’...
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Fully welded the intercoooooolay pipes. Cleaned em up a bit, couldnt decide of I should black em out or not. Didn’t. All refitted with Mikalor type clamps and silicone bends/hoses to adapt all the various sizes. The alternator looked like this- It was letting the side down a bit and is one of the higher up components so visible, so I cleaned it up a lot and dusted some clear lacquer over it to stop it furring up again. I then did the pulley in contrasting black- And refitted, with cleaned and painted bolts (I’ve cleaned and painted SO many bolts on this) and the belts fitted. So more jobs ticked off the list. Tbh I’m doing pretty well on it, good progress is being made. There are a few slightly larger jobs coming up yet though, and I’ve got the running boards still to revisit and finish off.
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First the unfeasibly small screws for the fuel sender. Bl00dy m4 thread! M4? That's positively enormous. My latest stupid RC build has parts held on by M1.2. That IS hard work. Good work man, looks to be getting somewhere close now! Assuming 1/10 scale, technically that's M12!
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1947 ford ranger...Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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M4? That's positively enormous. My latest stupid RC build has parts held on by M1.2. That IS hard work. Good work man, looks to be getting somewhere close now! Assuming 1/10 scale, technically that's M12! Hadn’t even considered that. Is indeed 1/10.
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Still really enjoying this build Dez. Hypothetically if I won the lottery what would it cost to build or buy this?? Roughly.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Still really enjoying this build Dez. Hypothetically if I won the lottery what would it cost to build or buy this?? Roughly. I had a discussion/costing out with a customer who’s interested in having basically the same thing built, with labour it priced out at about £17-18k built to the same spec, providing donor vehicles could be obtained for the right prices. Which is Probably about what it would sell for on the market at the minute, but then you couldn’t go and just buy one…
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Forging on, a few more jobs off the list. First I fitted up the gearstick with the new doctor Mx5 parts silicone boot to replace the knackered old one, and refitted and tidied/ziptied up all the gearbox related wiring so this area was tidy before doing the next bit. Next job was refit the biscuit tin- As you can see from my scribbles I’m still not 100% happy with this, but I needed the handbrake lever on before I made any further changes. This is said handbrake lever. Those two mounting holes on the lower right usually bolt up to the gearbox on the 47, but as that’s long gone I need to Formulate a bracket that emulates the position in relating to the floor/gearstick, but that clears all the stuff on the ranger chassis, mostly the gearbox. Some offering it up, taking some measurements and some CAD gave me this- As you can see I started with the major mounting holes and surfaces, then played with the shape til it looked good. This was then transposed to some steel, and some mounting bolts sorted out- Although it looks fancy, the curved shape actually serves a purpose. It allows the linkage to clear the bracket when the lever is pulled all the way on- Test fitting. It’s all pretty tight, but I knew it would be. The lever sits in a sensible place though. Just ignore the wiring for now 😂 Then I got carried away as usual. I needed a gusset as the backer is so tall. So I made one. It goes here- But that made the bracket look a bit pain so I gave that a fettle too before welding the gusset on. Bear in mind this is a bracket that is basically Hidden inside a transmission tunnel and will never be seen 🙄😂 But, here it is ready for final welding to the crossmember. This is how tight a line it threads between the edge of the tunnel and the edge of the gearbox. Angle of exit on the linkage to attach the cable to is perfect though, through the only gap there is. The front handbrake cable will require some drastic shortening and a roller to change its direction, but I’m happy with where the lever sits now. I ran out of time to finish it off, but it’ll get welded down as the next job.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Did I mention the prop? I don’t think I did. I found the source of the ‘clonk’ on power takeup 😂 For those who don’t know, it should look like this, full of needle roller bearings and not rust- But, at least that should mean the diff and box are not banjaxed. Here is a new joint all fitted up. And here is the prop refitted. Another job down. You’ll notice the exhaust is half there now too. I’ve got to relocate a hanger on that section as it argued with the body, and from there back it will be custom, and probably side exit.
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Could you have a turn down exhuast so it's hidden, like most modern diesels?
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1947 ford ranger...mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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Ah but then he won't be able to roll coal like all the other rat rod trucks...
Stacks. Pair of em, with only one plumbed in.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Ah but then he won't be able to roll coal like all the other rat rod trucks... Stacks. Pair of em, with only one plumbed in. Made of rusty 6” gas pipe, with random bits of chain and cut up sprockets welded to em, like one of the Kool Kids Klub?
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2021 20:42:04 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Could you have a turn down exhuast so it's hidden, like most modern diesels? Maybe. I think I’d probably prefer it if it wasn’t visible, it’s just space is tight to get it over the axle once bagged. I’ve not really thought about it that much tbh as it’s a few jobs down the list yet.
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