|
|
|
Nov 13, 2019 22:51:48 GMT
|
Hoping I won't, it's one more thing to run. Managed to get a coat of paint on the whole building bar the doors and frames today, and also she's in! Really happy with how much room there is with the car in.  Next up... blinds, electrics, security upgrades, finish the paint. A million more things after. Security wise I'm not happy at all with it currently, the door and window frames are essentially sandwiched in by the outer frames which are screwed on. I understand why, it's so they float in the aperture to let the cabin expand and contract, but the fact is you could open (remove) the man door at least with a screwdriver in near silence. I will put a load of coach bolts through all the frames which will mean at least they won't be able to get in quietly. I've also ordered a long throw gate lock for the barn door, and I think I will fit either a much better lock or a door bar on the side door as well. Helpfully though the garage is way out the back and there are some quite good gates obscuring it with gruesome spikes all over them. We're looking into CCTV as well. The blinds will at least make it so the insides aren't visible as it looks quite flash with all the cabinets, although the only one with any tools in at the moment is still my original stack! |
| |
|
|
|
|
kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
|
|
|
|
Yeah, you won't need a dehumidifier with a wooden garage as they are warm and also breath. Interesting comment about the waterproof chipboard.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, you won't need a dehumidifier with a wooden garage as they are warm and also breath. Interesting comment about the waterproof chipboard. Ken - Now that is a clever idea - if you took it one step further you could add one of the thin insulation blankets between the DPC & the board - I know a lot of garage owners place carpets etc on their floors but this is no good if you are pretty active with welders / grinders etc - the insulation blankets are not that cheap but they are very, very effective (in fact looking again at your pic I think that you have a insulation layer running under the board) www.selcobw.com/products/insulation/roof-insulation/triso-super-10-multifoil-insulation-10m |
| |
Last Edit: Nov 14, 2019 8:06:01 GMT by Deleted
|
|
kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 12:14:20 GMT
|
|
Thanks Chris. I have done some welding and grinding in there since laying the boards down, but obviously I am very careful as much as you can be, and there is always a extinguisher on standby, a bucket of water plus a hose as I do have a water supply in the garage. The intention was for all welding and grinding to be carried out in another garage I built to the side of the wooden one, but that is not always possible in the real world.
I have also had to make some adaptation to my axle stands and car ramps for use on the wood floor. Axle stands now have larger flat feet on them to avoid punching/making holes in the floor, and car ramps need a rubber mat under them to stop them sliding across the floor, but more often than not, because its easier, I jack the car up onto them rather than trying to drive up them anyway. I have had no issues since laying them, there is certainly less dust and its easier to hoover up after jobs in there Yes hoover the floor!! Even spilt oil is easy to clean up as the wood is painted with proper wood floor paint.
It has just made it much nicer to work in there especially in winter.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 19:14:17 GMT
|
Photos please of finished floor  |
| |
|
|
kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
|
|
|
|
Photos please of finished floor I laid the floor in two halves as i had to keep moving some stuff about including the car!!   |
| |
Last Edit: Nov 15, 2019 1:21:01 GMT by kenb
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2019 13:26:37 GMT
|
|
Mmmm..........I kinda like that. Need to screed my floor to get it flat but I do like the idea of the warmer floor.....mmmmmm......
PS, the workmat is a jolly good idea - keeps feet much warmer and less fatigue.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2019 13:40:33 GMT
|
|
You can get the boards up to 38mm thick that they use on mezzanine floors, its much denser and stronger than the domestic stuff, with a bit of 25mm celotex underneath that would take up most variations in the concrete?
|
| |
|
|
kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
|
|
Nov 15, 2019 14:22:29 GMT
|
Mmmm..........I kinda like that. Need to screed my floor to get it flat but I do like the idea of the warmer floor.....mmmmmm...... PS, the workmat is a jolly good idea - keeps feet much warmer and less fatigue. Workmat £10 from Halfrauds, dunno if they still doing them. It was more to do with reducing impact in case of dropping hammers/heavy objects and the like, because I wasn't sure initially how the boards would stand up to it. But they do seem to take everything quite well surprisingly. I did expect "tracks" where the trolley jacks are being used etc, but there is nothing. With laying the boarding, don't forget to leave a gap round the outside for expansion just like a laminate floor really. I did look into the thicker mezz floor type stuff. We don't have any reclaim places for that near here, and new thick boards were way too expensive for me. I also had a number of normal Wickes ones left over from other projects, so stuck with them. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2019 17:39:24 GMT
|
Mmmm..........I kinda like that. Need to screed my floor to get it flat but I do like the idea of the warmer floor.....mmmmmm...... PS, the workmat is a jolly good idea - keeps feet much warmer and less fatigue. Workmat £10 from Halfrauds, dunno if they still doing them. It was more to do with reducing impact in case of dropping hammers/heavy objects and the like, because I wasn't sure initially how the boards would stand up to it. But they do seem to take everything quite well surprisingly. I did expect "tracks" where the trolley jacks are being used etc, but there is nothing. With laying the boarding, don't forget to leave a gap round the outside for expansion just like a laminate floor really. I did look into the thicker mezz floor type stuff. We don't have any reclaim places for that near here, and new thick boards were way too expensive for me. I also had a number of normal Wickes ones left over from other projects, so stuck with them. Are they just loft boards Ken? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2019 20:53:45 GMT
|
|
I haven't got gutters on yet which should help quite a lot, but it's rained quite heavily today and water does get in under the bearers.
I do wish in hindsight that I'd known that making the slab the exact size was much better, or that we had used composite bearers or a course of bricks.
Wondering what is best to do - I've seen various recommendations from "don't do anything, just let it breathe" to "cover the whole thing in mastic and bitumen".
I wonder if just a bead of mastic around the outside join between bearers and concrete is best - let the bearers breathe but stop water seeping in.
Maybe a skirt of DPC - although I'm not sure how I would carry this out effectively. Also find myself wondering how I could get a DPC under the bearers, but the bearers are screwed to the concrete and the bottom set of logs are screwed to the bearers!
I do have to remember it's a garage/shed not a house obviously but don't really want to have water getting in.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2019 23:47:06 GMT
|
|
Gutters will make a very big difference so don't panic just yet.
A bead of non setting frame mastic would probably be a good idea as this should stop the water creeping under the bearer joint, and then just oil/paraffin mix on the bearers will make them waterproof.
That should be enough combined with the fall on the concrete bed.
|
| |
|
|
kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2019 11:40:49 GMT
|
|
Hi, I was going to suggest bituminous paint on the bearer and the join with the concrete, but as said with it already being wet that would just trap it in and it needs to breathe. However you could put weatherboard onto the shed above it and paint or oil it with the rest of the timber work, that should keep the worst of the rain and weather off of it and allow it to dry out easier.
Colin
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2019 15:00:15 GMT
|
Hi, I was going to suggest bituminous paint on the bearer and the join with the concrete, but as said with it already being wet that would just trap it in and it needs to breathe. However you could put weatherboard onto the shed above it and paint or oil it with the rest of the timber work, that should keep the worst of the rain and weather off of it and allow it to dry out easier. Colin Stupid question... if I just painted the outside on a day when it was quite dry, would it just be able to breathe to the inside, which I wouldn’t paint, or does it not work that way? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bit more progress, quite a lot actually. The electrics and lighting are all completed now. The whole exterior is now painted (apart from one window frame which I'm going to do very soon!) Only one coat but it'll do for now - I will do the second coat section by section when I've time. Got a PIR light on the front, two exterior lights on the side with an outside switch. Outside plug sockets towards the back for mowing the lawn and so on.  Things are calming down on the house front too, and it was time to sort out the state of the inside now it's 'complete'. I had a move about of some stuff and settled for now at least on the position of some bits, so I got my cabinets in place, levelled them out properly and used a bit of worktop that won't fit in the new 'office' room at this place. I reckon I will probably put the roll cabs back along the back wall though. The mad tidy up continued, I had a standalone shelving unit that's been in the shed but it was a bit curse word. I wanted something sturdier, bigger, and if possible red... settled on a Clarke one from Machine Mart that I'm actually dead impressed with. The boltless fixing holes are hidden on the insides and the cross parts have a stamped profile to them so it's pretty sturdy, nice laminated shelves as well. Got the bike off the floor too. The garage is finished to an extent now and it's a big relief, really chuffed with how it all turned out. Plenty of bits to do still like weatherproofing the bearers and so on but all the real hard work is done. Got to get that ****ing washing machine into the house but the stupid 80s kitchen means it's going to be a pain in the neck. Running out of excuses now!     |
| |
|
|
brachunky
Scotland
Posts: 1,339 
Club RR Member Number: 72
|
|
|
|
|
Turned out fantastic! It has a really "homely" look to it although I don't see a beer fridge yet
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That looks a cracking work space! Well done.
|
| |
Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looks really nice. Have a look at fitting a stormguard Stormguard door seal to seal the gap on the bottom of the doors. What blinds did you use? PS get those gutters up  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That’s looking very nice. A job well done. It looks even bit with the car in there.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
