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Cheers! It went up outrageously quick once the bearers were down. Absolute piece of cake. I've bought (hopefully) all my conduit, consumer unit, lights, sockets etc. I will get some exterior lights sorted soon but inside stuff first. Current plan:  My workbench will be along the back wall, and the cabinets were to go down the back side, but looking at the space now I'm thinking I might stack two of them on top of each other instead. I'll pull the car in once it's all together and have a think. Got pushbikes and stuff to go in too, but I think it will be a good size space for it all. |
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Hi, Yes, you don't want it to end up looking like this -  Colin |
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It's not as bad as all that! The gables pretty much sorted it but before we nail all the roof planks we're going to stick a level on the side and give it a nudge if necessary, brace it in place and then get the planks on.
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kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
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I built a similar log garage about 13 years ago. What I did was to treat every log on the edges before I assembled it, though that is a bit late for you. Water does get in the gaps between the layers when it rains especially as it gets older and as the wood naturally expands,contracts bends, though obviously because the edges are grooved it doesn't enter the garage itself. But I was advised to treat the edges before assembly by the seller for that reason. I also re treat the outside every four years. Mine has a tin roof now as the felt roof didn't last long before the wind here in tornado alley destroyed it, but otherwise I think these garages are great. The only thing I would have done different is put it on a layer of bricks rather than the wood strip. Again in my instructions it did suggest this as an alternative, but at the time I didn't bother.  |
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I built a similar log garage about 13 years ago. What I did was to treat every log on the edges before I assembled it, though that is a bit late for you. Water does get in the gaps between the layers when it rains especially as it gets older and as the wood naturally expands,contracts bends, though obviously because the edges are grooved it doesn't enter the garage itself. But I was advised to treat the edges before assembly by the seller for that reason. I also re treat the outside every four years. Mine has a tin roof now as the felt roof didn't last long before the wind here in tornado alley destroyed it, but otherwise I think these garages are great. The only thing I would have done different is put it on a layer of bricks rather than the wood strip. Again in my instructions it did suggest this as an alternative, but at the time I didn't bother. Look at that one! I'd have loved one that size! Looks great. I did consider the idea of treating the edges before construction but we just didn't have the time unfortunately, the thing had to be spread all over the garden before we did it anyway and with the weather this time of year it just wasn't an option. However most places do just recommend you treat it as soon as you can once it's up, and when I lived with my parents ours was ok so hopefully it'll be good still. I'll fill in any gaps as and when they appear. So we got it basically done today. We braced the side to pull it into square while we fitted the roof boards, we actually fitted them around the ropes, then took the ropes out and tightened the last boards down. Worked well, it's square to within about 5mm now.     Love it. Really happy. We ordered an up and over door, but the delivery company were messing us about a bit - the garage came with the wooden barn doors anyway, so we fitted them today to get it secure. We both decided we preferred the barn doors, especially with the up and over being £600 so I've cancelled it. Still need to lay the shingles, do the roof trims etc and get some treatment on it, I will basically just do all this stuff as soon as I can get it done over the next few weeks but glad to have it secure. Also gonna get a new bolt for the door without the handle, as the one built into the door a) doesn't actually reach the floor and b) we put the metal door strip on kind of in the wrong place for it to locate to (if it was long enough which it isn't) so I'll get a gate bolt which will go into the ally strip perfectly anyway. Also we were supplied two identical door handles, and they're not wide enough for the barn door  so I'll grab one of them tomorrow. After that I can start getting my stuff in and get it wired up! I'll mount all the fixtures etc but let dad actually wire it in properly as I don't really want to burn down my new garage or electrocute myself! Will get a few more pictures when I get a chance in daylight. The days are so short at the moment  |
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Very nice build. Reminds me quite a bit of what I've been doing recently (especially with the conifers down the side of the garage!), although yours looks far superior in quality. What's the plans for the inside of the timber, leaving as is?
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Last Edit: Nov 4, 2019 19:16:56 GMT by blue2019
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Very nice build. Reminds me quite a bit of what I've been doing recently (especially with the conifers down the side of the garage!), although yours looks far superior in quality. What's the plans for the inside of the timber, leaving as is? I've been looking at your thread and been really jealous at what you've achieved on the budget! Really impressed with it and it definitely made me think I've overspent. We've spent a fair bit on this but we've got so much going on at the moment I just wanted it to be as easy as possible and to last so I've over-done quite a lot of it I think. It also takes up quite a lot of space in the garden, and I wanted my wife to be happy with the look of it seeing as it dominates the view from the house a bit, so it's worth it! The outside's going to be treated with Osmo stuff, light grey with dark grey trim and doors/frames, and the inside I think I'm going to get some white bedec barn paint, with the dark grey trims on the inside too. I'm really hoping I've got enough paint for the outside, proper paint for timber buildings is so expensive it's outrageous. At least we have the money back for the door, that'll help! |
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kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
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[/quote]Look at that one! I'd have loved one that size! Looks great. Thank you. You would be extremely jealous if I told you how much this cost albeit 13 years ago now, and bear in mind this is the the thick 70mm logs not the thinner 44mm stuff. I paid £2500 +£50 delivery as it was on offer reduced by a grand. I think the equivalent is about 6k now the last time I looked!! As for the barn doors, I definitely prefer them, though on Sunday I did have an accident with one of them. We had gale force winds up here and I needed to do some work in the garage. I opened one of the front doors carefully, but the wind just whipped it out of my hand and it flew wide open with great force against the garage corner. It bent all three hinges and snapped the wooden frame of the door. So I have a quite repair job to do now and I will be putting a chain or a stop on it this time so it cant do that again.
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I think the equivalent is about 6k now the last time I looked!! More than that I reckon in the big boy logs! Got some daylight outside pictures today.   Put my toolbox in there.  Just kidding   So nice to get that stuff out of the house. It's been there since day one. Also moved a load of the other stuff that's been clagging the house up, the garage is now temporarily a total bomb site but not so much I won't be able to work around it. I fitted the storm braces today and fitted a better bolt on the bottom. List of stuff still to do is still very long. Consumer unit, conduit, electrics, lighting inside and out. I also need to adjust a couple of the rafters, there are galvanised saddles that hold them in place that we forgot all about and there's a bit of a gap between some of the rafters and the roof boards. It'll be a faff to sort out as I'll need to take out the screws, jack up the rafter, and then put the screws back in and fit the saddle. Don't imagine it will be difficult but it'll be awkward to do. Paint inside and out, shingles, better/additional locks, more substantial bolt on the top. Blinds. Ramp. Floor paint when it's cured enough. It goes on! The main bits, the ones that are stressing me out, is the shingles and the exterior treatment. Will see how much I can get done on the shingles this weekend. The rest I can do as and when, there is power out there and I've got a nice big work light that's bright enough. |
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Nov 11, 2019 13:40:26 GMT
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I would recommend Sadolin Superdec Superdec paint for the outside - looks good & seals well - not cheap mind, but good things never are. A bit late now but brick bearers are the way to go - those will rot in 5-10 years and need replacing. Also a DPC course on top of the bearers is preferable. You can oil the bearers with 50% clean engine oil & a bit of paraffin - do this twice a year and it will keep most of the rot at bay. |
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Nov 11, 2019 17:42:13 GMT
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Looking great!
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Nov 11, 2019 18:15:03 GMT
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I would recommend Sadolin Superdec Superdec paint for the outside - looks good & seals well - not cheap mind, but good things never are. A bit late now but brick bearers are the way to go - those will rot in 5-10 years and need replacing. Also a DPC course on top of the bearers is preferable. You can oil the bearers with 50% clean engine oil & a bit of paraffin - do this twice a year and it will keep most of the rot at bay. I've got my treatment already, Bedec Barn Paint on the inside and Osmo Country Colour on the outside. It's similarly well-reviewed as SuperDec (and similarly expensive  ) I wish I had put DPC under or on the bearers now, but as you say it's late for that. I wonder if there's any way I can get it under there - however the bearers are attached to the floor and the cabin is attached to the bearers. I will do as you suggest with the oil/paraffin and hope for the best. 5/10 years is a long time to work out a solution! Maybe if they do let go at some point I will work out how to jack the whole thing up and replace the bearers with a course of bricks.I suppose that if the bearers are past it, it would be possible to remove parts to enable lifting of the building and sliding under of bricks. That can be a problem for future me though! There is DPC under the concrete though, and the outside of the slab where the cabin sits is done with a slight fall all the way around the outside edge, so here's hoping that not too much water sits, but rather runs off. Guttering is certainly on the list of things to do in the near future. I'm also going to install a louvre vent with flyscreen at each end under the overhang so the building can breathe naturally, and I have an oil filled radiator in there which I'm going to be running on a timer to hopefully just keep it at a workable temperature to look after the building and the stuff inside it. |
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Nov 11, 2019 19:32:06 GMT
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Ah, good plan with the fall on the slab, that will help a lot.
It's the standing water that rots the wood bearers, so with a fall and also guttering it should remain reasonably dry.
The oil/paraffin mix will keep the bearers waterproof but will still let them breath (bugs also hate oil/paraffin) so should keep them reasonable as long as you re-treat regularly. Keep them well oiled and it should stop any water getting up to the main building wood. If you don't mind the bearers being black then old engine oil works even better as the carbon protects the wood.
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Nov 12, 2019 17:23:22 GMT
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Ah, good plan with the fall on the slab, that will help a lot. It's the standing water that rots the wood bearers, so with a fall and also guttering it should remain reasonably dry. The oil/paraffin mix will keep the bearers waterproof but will still let them breath (bugs also hate oil/paraffin) so should keep them reasonable as long as you re-treat regularly. Keep them well oiled and it should stop any water getting up to the main building wood. If you don't mind the bearers being black then old engine oil works even better as the carbon protects the wood. The bearers will actually look better black as its going to be a grey building! How fortuitous! Will definitely do that, thanks. Hopefully between that and the decent DPC under the slab (the slab is surrounded by crushed up asphalt and hardcore also for drainage and I will put some nice pretty shingle on top when I can), it will be ok. Hopefully! The building is now essentially complete, the roof is finished, the only actual bits left to do are the little diamond thingers and I want to add a shut to the right hand door for the left hand door to close against. I also managed to get a coat of treatment on one of the walls today and hope to carry on tomorrow weather permitting.   |
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Nov 12, 2019 18:43:12 GMT
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It looks really nice, those doors look solid with the inner steel framing as well.
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,971
Club RR Member Number: 29
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Nov 13, 2019 10:47:02 GMT
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I'd also be thinking about a de-humidifier, get a cheap temperature/humidity gauge that records max and min (very cheap on eBay).
The garage looks fantastic, I'd love something like that but have an integral single garage that is useless and no space with access for anything else.
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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Nov 13, 2019 12:58:02 GMT
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That looks really nice, I wonder if being thick wood they are a bit warmer inside compared to the prefab or single brick/blockwork garages?
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kenb
Part of things
Posts: 604
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Nov 13, 2019 14:18:10 GMT
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They are deffo warmer well mine certainly is. I've had both brick garages and prefab type before, but had awful damp problems with the prefab type. I did eliminate to a certain extent by cladding the inside and roof.
In my current wooden garage, I've also laid damproof chipboard flooring with plastic membrane underneath which also makes a hell of a difference. I'm too old to be rolling around on cold concrete floors.
Before anyone mentions, it takes a trolley jack just fine, and I've not set light to the floor or garage with a grinder/welder either.
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Nov 13, 2019 18:31:28 GMT
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That looks really nice, I wonder if being thick wood they are a bit warmer inside compared to the prefab or single brick/blockwork garages? When I was younger we had a concrete garage that then got insulated, and we had a timber cabin (but with a wood floor) that we used for motorbikes at the next place. They definitely hold heat in better and they have a bit of natural insulation due to the thickness too. That's what made me go for this one over concrete prefab, my dad had a lot of condensation in his before he insulated. The cabin at the other house was quite cosy when you had the heat on a bit, and we never had any condensation in there. |
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Nov 13, 2019 19:15:30 GMT
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Yeah, you won't need a dehumidifier with a wooden garage as they are warm and also breath.
Interesting comment about the waterproof chipboard.
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so I'll grab one of them tomorrow.
)
