dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Hi guys, I’m 24 and just bought this 71 Stingray from the states. A bit of a mess but rock solid frame with zero rust. I paid the seller extra to give the engine a good service as the car had been sitting for years and he reassured me that it would start fine when I got it and even sent a video of it running. Of course it arrived and won’t start, initially it would only run if the gas pedal was on the floor, then it would die as soon as I let go of the pedal, touching the gas pedal as it dies would cause it to backfire. Yesterday I tried to set the timing by finding tdc on cylinder 1 and then line up the harmonic balancer with the timing marks and set the distributor and it won’t fire at all now. I’m new to wrenching on engines but very eager to learn. Is there someone nearby who can show me the ropes of setting up a carburettor engine? I’m in East London.
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Hi guys, I’m 24 and just bought this 71 Stingray from the states. A bit of a mess but rock solid frame with zero rust. I paid the seller extra to give the engine a good service as the car had been sitting for years and he reassured me that it would start fine when I got it and even sent a video of it running. Of course it arrived and won’t start, initially it would only run if the gas pedal was on the floor, then it would die as soon as I let go of the pedal, touching the gas pedal as it dies would cause it to backfire. Yesterday I tried to set the timing by finding tdc on cylinder 1 and then line up the harmonic balancer with the timing marks and set the distributor and it won’t fire at all now. I’m new to wrenching on engines but very eager to learn. Is there someone nearby who can show me the ropes of setting up a carburettor engine? I’m in East London. |
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Last Edit: Jun 15, 2019 9:15:42 GMT by dazaaa
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Jun 15, 2019 10:21:42 GMT
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TBH it sound like a fuel problem . If it was running then you should not be messing with the timing .
I am betting a new carb and fuel pump and it would have been ok , it would have probably run with some petrol down the carb even .
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Jun 15, 2019 16:11:50 GMT
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Have you drain the fuel and put fresh in and changed the fuel filter.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 767 
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Jun 15, 2019 17:11:10 GMT
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Throw a dose of fuel down the carb while somebody is cranking it.
If it fires up the problem is fuel.
Next pull the fuel line off the carb and crank it over, if you get fuel the pump is working.
After that it’s a carb muck out and set up, unless the fuel in the tank is stale, you should be able to smell it if it is.
If it doesn’t start with fuel down the carb, pull a plug out, stick it in the HT lead, earth the plug body to the engine rocker cover or alternator bracket or suchlike. Crank over and check for spark.
If no spark then do the same with the lead from the coil, using a long screwdriver poked in the lead, hold it close to an earth point (by the handle!) to see if it sparks. If it does you have distributer cap or lead problems. If it doesn’t, look at the points, coil and all connections to these.
If you have fuel and spark I’d bet fouled plugs and/or stale fuel.
Try not to set it on fire now that the engine bay is doused in fuel.
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Last Edit: Jun 15, 2019 17:12:41 GMT by Ritchie
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Jun 15, 2019 17:14:02 GMT
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The video I received showed it revving high, not starting or idling, I guess the seller hid the fact that it never actually ran properly to begin with. As of now it cranks over and doesn't fire up, I tried setting TDC and putting the distributor on properly and now it does nothing wheras before it was backfiring and bogging out. Have confirmed spark on all cylinders and there is decent fuel.
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Last Edit: Jun 15, 2019 17:14:44 GMT by dazaaa
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Jun 15, 2019 17:16:59 GMT
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Now you mention the plugs, they were fouled since I had been pressing the gas a lot to get it to start. I tried cleaning them up a bit with oven cleaner (I saw a video on youtube) and the electrodes are much cleaner now....but since that it hasn't fired up. I've ordered new plugs already, could cleaning them have caused this?
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 767
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Jun 15, 2019 17:22:25 GMT
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Never heard of cleaning them with oven cleaner!
In my opinion plugs are never the same after they have been flooded.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 767
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Jun 15, 2019 17:23:15 GMT
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You could try giving them a roast up with a blow torch but new ones would be best.
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Jun 15, 2019 22:22:57 GMT
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Replace or clean and set the points
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To clean the plugs use a wire brush, brake cleaner and rag and then heat them over a gas flame, a cooker hob will do. Has it got points or electronic ignition? Did it have fresh petrol and how did you reset the ignition as you may have it 180 degrees out. Check that either the choke is working or not fully closed.
My 350 was a complete curse word to start from cold (choke didn't work) until I put a new carb on it. First thing to do now is check you have it timed properly and getting a spark at the plugs, then check fuel, you could tip some petrol straight into the top of the carb for this. You could also try rotating the distributor while someone cranks the engine.
Where in East London are you?
Your videos don't work
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Last Edit: Jun 16, 2019 8:26:20 GMT by timbo1956
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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I've tried setting the timing 3 or 4 times and its just refusing to fire, even moved the distributor incase it was 180 out and still nothing. Was following various youtube videos, get 1 to tdc turn the crank by hand till the mark lines up with 12 degrees. The choke doesn't ever seem to close but the plastic warms up, can't close by hand. Fuel seems ok but will get some direct in the carb to rule that out. I'm in Stratford. I can't get any pictures to work on here for some reason.
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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You say you turned the crank to TDC but is it actually on the compression stroke? If so give it more advance than 12 deg to get it going, the dizzy can be a right pig to line up in the correct position, once again, points or electronic ign
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Jun 16, 2019 10:33:33 GMT
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I turned it by hand till the exhaust valve opened and closed then the intake valve opened and closed, that would be the compression stroke right? I know a finger over the plug hole would confirm but it’s so difficult to crank with a ratchet and reach over at the same time. It has a points ignition, I’ve confirmed spark with a tester from the coil and on all the leads
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 906
Member is Online
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Jun 16, 2019 10:35:09 GMT
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Email Jonathan W (thats Dubbya)
OVIMOR
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Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Jun 16, 2019 10:49:34 GMT
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Where abouts in East London? Drop me a DM and let me see if I can help you out. P.  |
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Jun 16, 2019 11:06:32 GMT
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To check the dizzy is in the correct position put a test light or voltmeter from the - side of the coil to earth, put the engine at TDC or 12 before and turn the dizzy anticlockwise until the points just begin to open and the light illuminates or you get a reading on the voltmeter, check #1 lead is in the corresponding position to the rotor. Have you replaced the condenser with a working one? Customville Dagenham is a good place to get spares.
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dazaaa
Part of things
Posts: 124
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Jun 16, 2019 13:37:41 GMT
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Ok i'll have a go at that today. No I haven't replaced the condenser, it does spark fine so I assume its ok? I just bought a carb rebuild kit since the car was apparently sitting since the 90's so a rebuild is overdue. Paul Y has kindly offered to come over and have a look on Tuesday so i'm a little less anxious now  |
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Last Edit: Jun 16, 2019 13:38:18 GMT by dazaaa
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