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Apr 22, 2019 17:02:24 GMT
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I might, but they all have rust in the seam. The point of the boot lids is to get practice in for the roof. The seam rust is a valid concern. An option you have is to remove the skin and work it without the ribs in the way. I actually did this with the RH door on the Molvo, and it was not all that traumatic to remove and replace the skin. I tried the e-wheel with the removed skin, and while it helped to the point where I could have used the wheeled skin, I ended up taking the skin off again and using a second hand skin removed from another door. I copied this tool to get the skin off.
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Apr 22, 2019 18:10:03 GMT
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Had to do that to both my trunk lids and doors, pretty much the entire inner panel edge always needs replacing (learnt not to touch the outer skin the hard way..that one door is going to need copious amounts of bog).
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Just a small update here, I'll see if I can add some new pictures later. I've spent a few days with the panel hammer beating the depressions out of my trunk lids as best I can. In some cases this reversed an oil can and in 2 occasions I beat new dents into the metal. Last weekend I had my first go at one lid with the shrinking disc. It was educational. The shrinking disc did a good job getting the new dents I beat in shrunk down, but on the bits that were stretched by blasting the behaviour was a bit unexpected.
As stated above I'd managed to reverse the dents so I could attack them from above (not enough room between the support webbing to work from the back side). But the moment the shrinking disc starts to put a little heat into this type of dent/oilcan, it immediately reverts back to it's original position. Think the problem here is that the whole reason that oilcan is there in the first place is that one side of the metal is stretched more than the other. Shrinking the surface e with less stretch to begin with only compounds the problem. I did manage to get rid of the oil canning effect with some strategically placed shrinks, so that's something.. I can lock a floppy 'dent' in place, but as long as I cant work it from underneath it is not coming out. (not planning on splitting the skin from the inner support if I can help it).
I tried to get the trunklid as flat as possible (using a metal ruler as a guide), and it is much 'flatter' than it was when I started, but a layer of glossy black paint did not pull any punches... this will take some 'murican style fillering to get it presentable.
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Have you any access to a dent puller that can use carbon pencils for shrinking?
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Sadly no, that would allow for some more careful shrinking.
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Oct 12, 2019 20:41:46 GMT
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Update: Have let these problems damage my mojo so I havent touched any panels since the trunklids last spring. After meeting up with some old friends from the dutch AE86 'crowd' this week I figured it was time to pull the bandaid. What have I got to loose other than a roof panel? I went ahead with my plan based on the unequally stretched metal theory (namely that the oilcan dents in the roof are the result of those bits having been blasted harder from the inside than they were from the outside. The lack of dents where they refrained from blasting through the glue that held the insulation seemed to support it). Method of attack: Behold the shrinking disk (small one for use in tight spots, bought from Wrey Shelin). Mapped out the areas where the oilcanning is occuring, drew up a grid to help keep my shrinks at regular distances. Used local and careful application of the disk to heat up one spot at a time.. did not wait for any discoloration.. Even a few seconds worth seemed to have an effect. Started around the outside of the dent and worked my way in in a spiraling pattern. Have no pictures of the end result because it is really difficult to capture in a photo, but the big dents are gone and so is the oilcanning. Is this job done? Not quite, the shrinking disk tends to raise the metal a minute bit where you touch it so you end up with shallow little bumps where you've been working, should be able to planish these out without ruining anything I hope. There was also a bit of a ledge visible where the cross-support sat beneath the roof panel.. it largely dissapeared with the shrinking of surrounding metal but there are still traces visible. Should all be close enough to flatten with bog though..without having to worry about it flying off somewhere in the future.
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Last Edit: Oct 12, 2019 20:44:22 GMT by ivan141
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Oct 12, 2019 21:28:13 GMT
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Good work, it will get there. My 67 beetle had the roof completely caved in by someone jumping on it. No pros wanted to touch the repair so i pushed it out, beat the worst out and did loads of heating and shrinking. It came good in the end and didnt need too much filler. I didnt have a shrinking disk so i used a belt sander with a completely knackered belt. It got the high spots really hot which i then quenched. Just kept going over and over it, hammering, heating with the belt sander and shrinking.
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Last Edit: Oct 12, 2019 21:28:43 GMT by VW
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