1979 Capri 2.0 "Ghia " - Spraying Bumpers / New TCAs

The back of the valve doesn't look to bad, I can't see how the coke would affect running unless the valve isn't sealing, a compression test is the way to check this.

I still think your staring and running issues are probably to do with the carb, unless the choke mechanism is in prefect order they never run right, I remember messing around for ages trying to get our 1600 ghia escort running right, in the end gave up and splashed out on a re-built carb which transformed it.

Right I see...I tested the wire without the coil on ignition 2 and was getting 12v maybe a bit more. I thought if it was a ballast wire that it would just have around 9v is it?

My plan is to send another 12v feed to the Ignition Module as that apparently needs its own feed. I have a 12v switched feed coming out of the loom and I think (probably even better) a switched 12v pin on the fuse box. I saw that on a Capri video, not tested mine yet.

Happy New Year! Here is the 3rd video on removing/refitting the Atlas Axle.

They filled it at the workshop for me. Annoyingly the backplate is leaking slightly from a pin hole in the centre of the plate. I have another with a gasket but havent swapped it over yet... waiting for better weather. I heard you can use liquid metal too as a patch so might try that

For todays test, I decided to have my jumper pack on the car with the multimeter attached to the Battery (hence the higher reading if you cant see the pack). 2 pumps on the throttle, wait for the new electronic fuel pump to do its thing and it fired nicely. No choke manual choke needed.
If you watch the video though you can see the car cuts out once the jump pack is removed but, it does start back up. I wanted to do some tests on the alternator to eliminate the charging system. I was getting some wacky results though.




Neg battery terminal to alternator casing was between 0.02-0.12 so.. not sure if its more than a bad earth there? The top sliding bracket gave no result so I've taken that off and cleaned that off. The bottom bolt seems a bit welded on and I couldnt be bothered with a broken bolt today.

Neg battery terminal to block was around 0.03-5 which i think is right and ground to body was 0.08 .

I have yet to test the output of the alternator as the neighbour was chatting to me and I was getting told off by the misses for making the house stink with the car on the drive








I did get a quick drive round the block and it was quite nice. The new hose joining was leaking too though so I didnt go far   the list grows longer!

I'm thinking wiring wise I need to go over the alternator again and check the output, should also try get it off and clean the mount up. I should still run a switched dedicated 12v feed for the ignition module. I never did this as I gave it to the garage to figure out. Since its been back and is playing up under load... its probably time for this. After that... a new heavy duty Battery?

So spent a little bit of time testing more things on the Ignition System. The Ignition module now finally has its on constant 12v feed. If this helps the cold/first start problem time will tell. I tested the original feed from the coil to battery negative and was getting battery voltage on ignition 2 so, guessing no ballast (i'm sure ive tested this before).

The Car now has an electric fuel pump so now thats on fuse 5 too (with an inline fuse as well).

Also I bought a heavy duty Yuasa Battery thinking that would kick it over quicker. It definitely does help but thinking maybe I need to upgrade the starter. I've seen one on ebay that has 50% more turning over power apparently... not sure if this is me looking in the wrong place though. I feel like I'm nearly there with this .... only been 2 years haha. My only problem is the Escort is about to need a ton of welding so I could do with getting this sorted so I have a Car to go to work in or.... it might be the end for this one.

I still wonder if its a fuel/carb thing with this although now its starting to flood easy with the new fuel pump. It has brass floats in it and i did read they can get fuel off fuel and act up ... just an idea.


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Thanks mate! Yeah definitely new leads are on the cards, I think you are right on the 1volt drop. I was told Halfords ones are good but i'm also wondering if I should make some fatter ones. The Earths could be better too like you say. Its a nice Car now once it fires and runs. Still a lot more to do I just hope I can get it firing up from cold soon. My Escort on points will fire even when frozen over (just about).
Re-build thread theres a lot to get through haha!! Thanks for replying

i would change the coil usually the cause of a weak spark if you're lucky there will be a part number on the side or bottom of the coil

Yeah this is the Bosch distributor with separate Lucas DAB752 igniton coil into the above motorcraft coil . I’m just cleaning the plugs up as best as possible and was thinking of picking up so more but, I think if it would spark these would be fine lol . I think i read this system would have a different coil. I was speaking to powerspark over the summer thinking of changing this whole system. Wondering if I could buy a heavy duty coil like their viper ones or would this have a negative effect . Either way I think this set up should have a different coil originally.