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...have you gotten your wheel bolt issues dealt with? Currently waiting on some parts arriving then will hopefully get the wheel problem sorted. -- -- -- Got a couple of small things done on the Invacar this afternoon. First up was refitting the infill strips on the gutters. This is important from a weatherproofing perspective as it covers the retaining screws. Plus it makes the car look far less unkempt.  I had initially planned on changing the front indicator seals, however can't find them. I was absolutely sure I knew which box they were in...apparently I was wrong. No huge loss as the whole indicator units are like £2 each, so I've just ordered a pair of new ones. The lamp holder in the nearside one is somewhat temperamental and the lenses aren't the best anyhow, so a fresh set probably isn't the worst idea ever. The one light seal I did find appears to be for an Invacar Mk12 tail light I think...definitely nothing Model 70 related anyway.  With one of my indicator lenses for scale you can clearly see it's larger in diameter.  While rummaging around in the back of the garage I took the opportunity to drag my spare dash out into the land of the living. It's scruffy and needs a really good tidy up, but there are no cracks or holes in the surfaces you can see. Just a couple of small cracks in the lower edge around where it attaches to the bar under the dash.  The issue with them warping across the top is purely because the only support there is a tiny little flat bit of metal screwed to the top in three places that doesn't even extend to the ends of the dash.  Which as you can see from the shape of it, seems to bend more easily than the dash plastic itself. I'm sure I can engineer a better solution than this. It's spent a lot of time outside though so everything attached to it is rusted beyond hope. Getting the fuel gauge out will be fun I think... I'll see how well it tidies up. If it ends up looking decent I will probably look to swap it for the one in the car. I prefer it not having a gaping hole where the dash mounted gear selector would be if it had one anyway. I've got some serious scrubbing to do...  Speaking of the dash, something which had been bugging me no end in the car was the hole just above the interior light. Don't seem to have a recent photo showing it so had to delve into the archives, this was taken when I was experimenting with possible locations for additional warning lights. You can see there's a hole just above the left hand end of the interior light.  Resolving this involved dismantling the light, removing it from the dash and moving it upwards about 10mm. There's still a you've out of the plastic by the left hand screw but it's a lot better than it was.  Little things in the extreme but at the end of the day they all add up. |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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It might be a good idea to invest in some quality oil pressure/temp gauges sooner rather than later being that the engine is air cooled, always really interesting to read the updates, look forward to the next installment.
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It might be a good idea to invest in some quality oil pressure/temp gauges sooner rather than later being that the engine is air cooled, always really interesting to read the updates, look forward to the next installment. I'll be picking up some period ones in due course. I've used these ones before and never had issues. They're never going to be the last word in accuracy but I'm not really interested in what the exact number they're showing really (within reason!), rather keeping an eye on them for any deviation from where they normally sit. Definitely get the point though, and yes something in keeping with the period of the car will definitely be going in there. I just wasn't willing to pay what seemed to be the going rate on eBay for Smith's gauges when I last looked so figured I'd keep my eyes peeled at autojumbles for some at more realistic prices. |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Yet another day where gardening ate up most of the day. Did at least feel like we achieved something though. The hedge along here was originally high enough along this whole stretch that the streetlight was almost entirely hidden.  The whole lot will be coming out at some point and the fence pushed back to just behind the trees, but this is a step in the right direction. Did mean that I didn't have much time left for the cars though. The Invacar has always had one small oil leak from the sump drain plug. Nothing major but it always left a drip or two in the garage. Given she was due an oil change I figured this was a good time to investigate that. Yeah...the state of this might have something to do with it.  Generally I think that sump washers aren't generally meant to be conical! I couldn't find another one the right size, so battered it back into a vaguely flat shape and added a smear of instant gasket. I'll get a replacement ordered in and change it the next time the oil gets dropped (which won't be far down the road given I'm wanting to do the best to wash the inevitable gunk out). I need to have a think about where I'm going to put the oil pressure and temperature sensors. The pressure sensor can't just go where the pressure switch usually lives as there's no room for it. The distributor is too close to it. I'll need to make up a line to relocate a T connector to somewhere where there's more room. The temperature sensor is going to be a bit trickier. I'm guessing that the easiest solution would be to get an adaptor to thread into the sump plug and to put it in there. The other option I can immediately think of would be to get hold of a second oil pickup strainer assembly and drill and tap a hole for it in that. That looks suspiciously similar to the plate that VW used as the engine drain on the Beetle/Transporter engines... I'll need to check the dimensions, because if they are the same size that could make my life easier... |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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You used to be able to get dipstick senders for oil temp. Don’t know if you still can. A banjo fitting can be a good way of getting an oil pressure sender away from nearby obstructions, just a thought.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Was a day or two back that these things I'd been waiting for turned up.  These were hopefully the last things I needed to finally get the nearside wheel on the Invacar reattached to the hub in all four points. Sadly it would be another couple of days before I'd have a chance to get back into the garage. This morning another little package arrived.  Which will allow me to tidy up the front indicators. Just out of shot is also a couple of oil filters. First up, having finally got hold of a couple of oil filters (having thought I had them in stock but discovering 3/4 of the way through the oil change that I was wrong) I could get that fitted and finish the oil change.  I'm going to have to spend some serious time cleaning up in here soon...everything is just covered in paint because I was an idiot and didn't properly mask off the engine bay before doing the paintwork. That's a job for another day. Speaking of clean though, this is the first time that the oil hasn't turned visibly darker the moment it's poured into the engine - this had been running for a few minutes.  So having spent a good portion of the afternoon putting it off it was back to fighting with the hub. Even with a good cobalt drill bit drilling into this hub is an absolute nightmare. After the best part of an hour of fighting with the drill and then the tap...  ...Yes! For the first time since the start of September the wheel is actually attached at all four points and tightened up properly. The shonky using-old-wheel-nuts-as-conical-washers arrangement there on the other bolts was only intended to confirm the thread size in the hub and to prove that bolts would work. It's been confirmed that wheel bolts from a Mk I Morris Minor have the correct thread and right sort of conical head, so there are a set of those on the way. If the hub wasn't such an absolute pain to drill and tap I'd seriously consider using the M12 bolts in all four holes as they're substantially beefier than the 3/8" ones.  As it is I'd not be able to drive it like this anyway as the 3/8" bolts currently in there are too long so they foul on the brake shoes. Huge step forward though! Next step will be to pull the wheel and drum off to clean the inevitable swarf from the drilling and tapping operations out of the drum, then once the new bolts arrive we can get back on the road! ...Then we can see A: Which gremlins I've forgotten about in the last nine months, and B: What new gremlins have developed while she has spent nine months sitting dormant in the garage. This will be a good thing given that the Jag isn't exactly...frugal...on continuous local runs! Van is actually astonishingly frugal around town, but as 3/4 of the places I've been needing to go lately have height barriers so it's not an option! Looking forward to buzzing around in the Invacar again. Especially as I'd just got the CVT sorted out when the whole wheel stud debacle started. I'll have another bash at changing the indicators tomorrow. That ran into issues today because the nuts and bolts are thoroughly rusted in place, I'm not messing around with them...I could mess around for hours trying to get them unbolted, nope...the heads are getting whipped off with the angle grinder. |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Hopefully the new wheel bolts for the Invacar will turn up in the next couple of days. In preparation for that I pulled the wheel and brake drum off so I could clean things up ready for the road again. Wasn't actually as much gunk in there as I was expecting. Bit of swarf, but nothing too difficult to clean out.  The long term plan is still to change the hub as I'm not 100% happy with how close the wider drilling has taken it to the edge of the casting. The thread hasn't been cut as well as I'd ideally like either, though I did give it a good old heave today on the bolt and it didn't strip, so I'm not too worried. I had a look at something today. The difference between the 4X100 PCD (used on the Invacar) and the original 4X98 that Fiat originally used. The bolt holes in the brake drum are actually big enough that there's enough clearance for these holes to be used. The only thing actually preventing them being used is about 1mm of metal on the wheel. The question springs to mind of whether a specialist would be able to make that tiny modification. It's a question I think I might ask of a couple of companies...seeing some of the mad banding mods and such it would seem a relatively easy job. If it *was* doable that would eliminate the potential stud headaches once and for all. Before folks ask, yes I have looked at the 12" Fiat wheels from the 500 - the offset is significantly different so the tyre would foul on the wheel arch (can't remember on which side off the top of my head). I've got one of the front indicators swapped out. Just need to go back in with a brush to touch in the paint around where the old seal was removed, was fully expecting that to be needed as the construction of the new unit is slightly different.  I will see if I can get the old lenses cleaned up properly though as the moulding of the original lenses is of a far better quality (unsurprisingly). The other one will be done when I next have the car out the garage as the offside front corner is really awkward to get at when it's all the way into the garage. |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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If you can take the hubs off then any machine shop will be able to drill & tap new holes on the blank areas between the holes you already have.
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If you can take the hubs off then any machine shop will be able to drill & tap new holes on the blank areas between the holes you already have. That's pretty much the plan. Once stuff starts reopening that's probably what will happen, if I can find someone willing to do it. I did ask a couple of places a while back and they weren't willing to modify a suspension component (assuming due to liability worries) but we'll see. -- -- -- Not really much to report today. The indicators looked odd without the gasket behind them, even though they're not really needed to form a seal with how the new units are constructed. So I went out and set about removing as much of the paint from the old gaskets as I could then refitted everything.  Not totally sure why the one on the offside appears to have swollen up a bit (assuming it's reacted with the thinners in some way) but the other one hasn't...will have a dig through the boxes and see if there's a spare floating around in one of my boxes of assorted junk. Sadly no sign of the new wheel bolts yet. Had hoped that they might turn up today, but sadly not, so she's still sitting on a jack. I did think about tackling the brake disc change on the Jag - in fact I even hauled the tool boxes out to it, before realising that the trolley jack still has an Invacar sitting on it. Oh. I could have faffed around and dug it out, but I didn't honestly feel like it. Nor do I particularly want to jack 1700kgs of Jaguar (including 400+kg of drivetrain alone!) using the one in the boot toolkit if I don't have to. Slightly irked I decided to revert to type and faff around clean things. When I first started the paintwork I was grossly naive where quite how far the overspray would travel which had resulted in a bit finding its way onto the tail light lenses (I honestly have no idea why I didn't just remove the units entirely and put them somewhere well away from the painting).   A bit of a scrub with some G3 cutting paste sorted that out.   I assume there should be a gasket of some sort between the lens and the back plate, does anyone know if this is a flat gasket or just a tubular section rubber one? Something worth bearing in mind - when folks say that that soda blasting media gets everywhere, they mean it! There must have been a quarter of an inch of it inside both tail lights! Gave everything a good clean, greased up all the contacts in there so as to prevent any issues with future corrosion. Very glad I thoroughly bagged the air intake on the engine before that started. |
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Last Edit: May 9, 2020 1:23:26 GMT by Zelandeth: correcting autocorrect...
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Either the existing bolts I've got aren't actually 3/8" BSF as I ordered, or Morris Minor wheel bolts are not actually 3/8" BSF.  Ignore the damaged bit on the end of the thread on the longer bolt, because it's too long it fouled on the brake shoe when screwed in. I was all set for this being a ten minute trip into the garage and this would be sorted sufficiently to leave alone for a while...so much for that. Massively frustrated with it right now. |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Oh Jeez.
☹️
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Right...I have successfully resisted all temptation to go full Basil Fawlty on it or chuck a lit match into the garage.
A bit of digging revealed there was a front hub assembly still available on eBay. Been there for a while. I'd originally been dismissing that as I was sure I'd read somewhere that the front hub used conventional splined studs as per the Mini.
The parts manual however simply lists one part number for the wheel studs and shows a quantity of 12 per car...so they should be the same. Closer examination of the photographs on the listing shows that they are indeed screwed in. Suffice to say I clicked buy it now at that point without a moment's further hesitation. I'll still need to source new wheel nuts and figure out how to extract the studs from it without damaging them...
Though I'm telling you right now that if everything wasn't closed, that hub would have been off and on its way to a machinist today to have all four holes drilled out to take M12 bolts! My only worry there is how close it is to the edge of the hub itself - and I'm wondering if that's why they used such an oddly small diameter stud.
So it's not going to be sorted this weekend...but we're getting closer. Hopefully!
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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It suddenly clicked. I always thought Morris Minors from the very start with the Series MM in 1948 had wheel nuts, not bolts. I remember from both my 1959 and 1962 Morris 1000 of years ago they had wheel studs and nuts, not bolts. The correct spanner is 3/8" BSW/9/16" BSF. The torque is 37 - 39 lb ft. I have a Morris 1000 parts list book from then! It shows that the front and rear wheel studs are different part numbers, but what the difference is, I do not know. They are all splined into their hubs. The part numbers are: Front stud; 2A 4066, Rear stud; 2A 7089, Wheel nut; 88G 577
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Last Edit: May 26, 2020 7:09:30 GMT by bobdisk: More info!
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May 10, 2020 10:22:41 GMT
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I'd not over worry about how close they are to the edge. It's not a high horse power car, nor will it be subjected to excessive side loads. The bolts are not subjected to any loads that stress the thin outside edge.
I'd ask the machine shop to drill new holes but then I'd be looking at using splined pull in studs, like most cars use.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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May 10, 2020 10:43:04 GMT
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You should invest in a cheap set of verniers and a couple of thread pitch gauges, one imperial and one metric. That would take an awful lot of the guesswork out of stuff like this.
I take it that front and rear hubs aren’t interchangeable?
When it arrives, send it on to me, along with a spare metric wheel bolt. I’ll get the studs out for you, drill the bolt out, tap it to match the studs, and cut it down to make an adapter to mate with the one you’ve drilled out. I can also measure up the portion of thread the nuts fit on and give you a definitive size of nut to be looking for.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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May 10, 2020 11:31:55 GMT
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You should invest in a cheap set of verniers and a couple of thread pitch gauges, one imperial and one metric. That would take an awful lot of the guesswork out of stuff like this. I take it that front and rear hubs aren’t interchangeable? When it arrives, send it on to me, along with a spare metric wheel bolt. I’ll get the studs out for you, drill the bolt out, tap it to match the studs, and cut it down to make an adapter to mate with the one you’ve drilled out. I can also measure up the portion of thread the nuts fit on and give you a definitive size of nut to be looking for. You're a gent. |
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May 10, 2020 19:40:12 GMT
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You should invest in a cheap set of verniers and a couple of thread pitch gauges, one imperial and one metric. That would take an awful lot of the guesswork out of stuff like this. I take it that front and rear hubs aren’t interchangeable? When it arrives, send it on to me, along with a spare metric wheel bolt. I’ll get the studs out for you, drill the bolt out, tap it to match the studs, and cut it down to make an adapter to mate with the one you’ve drilled out. I can also measure up the portion of thread the nuts fit on and give you a definitive size of nut to be looking for. I do have a couple of sets, I was just about keeping track until we started ending up with the same stud being different versions of 3/8" and ending up falling over myself trying to keep track of what's what. The from hub is a completely different affair.   Images are purely for reference and are the work of the eBay seller Invacar70 with whom I have no connection other than having bought a bunch of parts from. The front one is much easier to deal with it necessary as there's just one big old castle nut and the wheel bearing through the middle of it. Also the back of the area behind the stud is flat - it's not on the rear one which precludes using splined studs as you would need to mill out a flat area for it to land on. I'm hoping that given there's no visible signs of mechanical locking going on that the studs might wind out of the new front hub assembly relatively easily. If so that should sort us out for now. If A: it doesn't immediately co-operate or B: I do find a spare rear hub I will definitely take you up on that extremely generous offer. Just a bit awkward sending anything at the moment as the only post office open anywhere near us is the huge one in the town centre which is an overcrowded mess even at the best of times, so I'm inclined to give it a very wide berth at the moment. |
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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May 10, 2020 20:23:33 GMT
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The UK needs to do the whole USA mailbox thing. Dump item in mailbox, put flag up, mailman collects and brings it to the post office.
Simples. People know tampering with the mail is federal offense and fields you considerably more than a $10 fine and a slap in the wrist, so generally it doesn't happen here.
England. So quaint and archaic.
Phil
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Last Edit: May 10, 2020 20:24:27 GMT by PhilA
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May 10, 2020 20:55:51 GMT
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I can see something similar happening in the future here given the rate at which they've been closing down post offices here in the last few years or implementing increasingly ridiculous opening hours.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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May 10, 2020 21:25:55 GMT
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No problem. Just shout if you need me. 👍
Making an M12 down to 3/8” BSF adaptor would be a quick and simple job to do on the lathe, so if you get your studs out ok and want to think about swapping the odd bolt at a later date when things have calmed down a bit then that’s another option.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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