1983 BMW E28 525i Lapisblue manual

After removing front wings I found out how it was lowered so much, yeah Spax springs chopped.



Also as on the above pic I found rusty floors, usual traps on an e28. Time to clean passenger front floor first. Heating gun was used to remove sound deadening mats easier, then brushed all area clean.




djefk - I’m planning to fit KAW springs, tried them before but at lowering range 60/40, paired with a set of B8 Bilsteins and 19mm arb gave super comfy but also sporty characteristics. This is my fourth e28, last one was 1987 528iA SE in Diamond Black.

rblote - thanks! They are great indeed, I think they hold up against the time quite well, rust is major problem though.

I had to cut a part of outer sill, straightening piece for jacking point and lower base of A post to get better access to the area. Not only the floor was affected but also inner sill so cutting all was the best option. Lower part of A post and straightener will be welded back on when the floor will be finished.

Outer sill, bottom of A post and straightener cut out
for easier access to affected inner sill



And all rust cut out

Then it was time to make some repair panels. When I got the car I’ve received leftovers of drivers side sill repair panel. Not that bad quality but as a source of ready bends and angles it’s perfect.

The part of floor acceding to inner sill was cut out from donor panel at exact needed angle, the same with a long piece to repair inner sill which had to be curved on the top to meet remaining part of inner sill. This was sourced from donor panel as well.

The area where inner sill joins with outer sill with a flange is common rust trap. Due to wrong positioning of lifting equipment these two parts originally spot welded split and crack allowing water to get inside this promotes rust to floor as well.

My trusty Cebora PortaMig was out. Tackled with inner sill repair first.
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Tack welded it from inside then fully welded from outside, welds sealed with Dynamax sealer. Lower part for A post welded back on place and welds grinded smooth, this is where the wing is mounted flat to flat.



Then a piece adjoining the floor to the inner sill was made.
Also sourced from donor panel 500mm long, 20x20mm square. Used joggler toll to pinch several holes to pool weld together with inner sill repaired part. Then I cut a piece of donor sill, had to flatten this to make a patch for floor. All welded, floor piece from underneath as well.



Now time to sort out two holes on A post visible on pics a bit higher to repaired floor, clean the welds, weld back stranghtener for jacking point and close the sill with sill outer panel (pool welded with inner sill). I will flood it with cavity wax at the end.

bsd - other side is similar but a bit smaller. Enjoying this kind of work. What helps and make it easier is proper, quality tools and equipment. I managed to acquire some but the list is never ending lol. For example I’ve already sent a letter to Santa Claus. I’m asking for a new welding mask as my present one is old, auto lens not working right and is not comfy to wear due to bulky not close to face enough design. I’m dreaming about Space View mask, well they say dreams come true!

Nice. I've got an e28 project I use daily. These are truly great cars.

Thanks for above comments guys. E28 is such a nice shape, simplicity with a proper Bavarian remarks, shark nose front end, double round headlights, C pillar like ice hokey bat.

Had some time spent on Lapis this week. Passenger side front floor and sill repaired and closed with outer sill panel, jacking point and floor stranghtener often mistaken as a jacking point.





Made these for both sides where floor stranghtener meets A pillar.



Then it was time to switch sides, this wasn’t looking optimistic.



Removed the wire loom running behind, separated the sockets and removed central locking module mounted behind A pillar as well.
With a rotary brush on a grinder cleaned the area and cut all rust out.



On this side the floor flange for inner sill was good enough to keep it so had to start with opening the sill and removing stranghtener for jacking point.

The rusty sections removed were saved for templates and dimensions.






Started with repairing inner sill first, extended this part to become A pillar foundation. Drilled holes ina few places for pool welding and joined it with floor flange.
Then I made floor section and joined it with extended inner sill repair bit. So it left me with part of outer sill and outer A post sections to repair. At this stage it looked like this

Nice work, always liked these five series cars
Good luck with the resto, well worth doing mate

I thought mine was bad! Good to see another e28 being saved, too many are broken up for part.

Lovely work,
Looking forward to ongoing updates.

And there’s where not good things about aftermarket panels arise. The bit where wheel arch meets with the outer sill is not wide enough, the top (wheel arch) is wider than klokkerholm panel bit. Tried to center it to save door shut area from excessive amount of filler to be used. Ovearall not too bad for £40 a piece.

Welds grinded down and smoothened





Inner wheel arch angle section made from one piece and pool welded with the inner wheel arch. Part of the wheel arch covering mounting bolt also was cut out and replaced with new metal.



I made a new plate securing the rear beam mounting bolt from the underneath. Had to be careful when cutting the hole for the bolt in the center otherwise I would find myself making another one. This is where I got stucked really due to not available cutting equipment for drilling such a large hole of about 38mm in dia.

Had to cut it with a grinder and improvise



Reinforcing this area with this



And fully welded



Then it was time for sealing and painting in zinc primer





So just jacking point to fabricate and weld to the sill left to complete this end of the sill.