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that's an awful lot of wires Phil That is unfortunately what happens when a fusebox is introduced to the equation. There really aren't that many different circuits, but there are a good number of things that are supplied off the ignition switch (yellow) and unswitched from battery (red). The rest of the colors are from the switches and are going to whatever they operate. Phil
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I am getting somewhere with it. If you look back, this is where I started from. This is where I am now. The big red and black wires are temporary because I've got the battery sitting on the floor inside the cabin. Phil
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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How's the motor running now Phil?
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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How's the motor running now Phil? It starts and runs well. I need to get the brakes sorted so I can test it out under load. Phil
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That'll be well enough. Phil
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There we go. Phil
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Reminds me, I do need to check what current is going through each fuse and fit an appropriate fuse to each- they're all 20 amp right now which is on the excessive side (that would now be 10A for 12V, rather than 20A for 6V) but a lot of the circuits are fairly low draw.
--Phil
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 914
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Reminds me, I do need to check what current is going through each fuse and fit an appropriate fuse to each- they're all 20 amp right now which is on the excessive side (that would now be 10A for 12V, rather than 20A for 6V) but a lot of the circuits are fairly low draw. --Phil Got a little gadget here which gives you amp draw like this , as you well know as the volts go up the amps go down so halving the fuses would be close
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Nifty little gadget! Luckily my multimeter has a 10A shunt inside so I was able to poke about tonight. Current draw:
Glovebox light etc: 0.3A Fog lights: n/a but would be 9A if fitted Radio: 3.4A once warmed up Hood light/clock/instruments/lighter socket: 10A Heater fan: 8.5A (steady, up to speed)
Reversing lights: 4.2A Turn signals + brakes: 3A max (on same fuse as reverse lights)
So 1.5A 14A 5A 14A 14A 10A
That should cover things. Beats the instructions "All fuses 20A except radio 14A".
Phil
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2020 0:46:05 GMT by PhilA
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Not much to add, except electrics are another dark art to me.
But as you will know by now, progress is progress.
You are still getting there.
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Fuses are odd things to calculate. (Not saying you are wrong Phil, but often people misunderstand how they actually are designed to work). They are there to protect the wiring not whats connected to the wiring. As such, if you had 30A cable on your radio for example then the correct fuse would really be 25A. This would be a bit daft on both counts of course - but it does become far more critical when running heavier loads through say only one big feed line. In the instance I just described the correct way (if using such heavy 30A cable) would be a 25A fuse in the cars board, with a 1.5A in line fuse for the radio itself. Example; (home electrics - as it shows heavier loads better) Garage feed from house - cable is rated at say 40amps. This feeds a MCB on the garage wall, but in the MCB you run a 32A ring main, a 32A direct feed to welder, a 40A feed to compressor, a 5A feed to lighting and possibly several more circuits. Now uninitiated people would stick a 80A fuse in the house board so the garage board will trip circuits first. This would (possibly) overload the cable to the garage, so the fuse in the house should be a 32-35A to protect the cable. The house fuse will always trip out before the garage board fuse - even if the garage board fuse is a far lower rating. (there are special RCD's to stop this but thats a different issue). This highlights the need for the correct size cables to suit the items being powered - especially in home environments. Anyway, carry on, always a pleasure to read. PS, I have a nifty multimeter with a pair of jaws on the ends, clip the jaws around any cable and power whatever the cable feeds and magically it shows you the current draw in the cable.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,072
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1951 Pontiac Chieftainglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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There are two ways of looking at it, as I’m sure Phil understands, but for the benefit of those that don’t...
If the fuses are there to protect the wires from dead shorts. They could all be 30amp ones, and they’d still blow before a 8.75 amp cable got hot enough to do itself a mischief if there was a dead short. That’s the way I set my wiring up. I lay in an appropriate gauge of cable for the load, then fuse everything the same (20a, generally) regardless. That way, if a wire chafes or a component fails resulting in a short to earth, the fuse pops and so will any replacement until the fault is rectified. And I only really need one type of fuse.
The other way of looking at it is that the fuse protects against unintentional overload, in which case it needs to be slightly under the rated value for the cable, so that as load gradually ramps up, the fuse blows before the cable fails.
Neither way is wrong, but in a vehicle with fixed components, the chances of a steady load being created in a circuit above that of the hard wired ones is unlikely. It’s not like a domestic ring main that can have loads of things plugged in; you just don’t really get that situation on a car. Not unless billy-bodger has been in there adding stuff to existing circuits.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Yup, though my margin on the cable is significant in most cases so I'm working out to fuse for what the wire should be for the circuit, rather than what it is. I would be running 20-50 amp fuses based upon wire capability and that's silly. Therefore the fuse will blow below the wiring's maximum- a nasty overload (sticking fan motor for instance) should melt the fuse before it makes the wire get hot). Initially I'm in the "I don't fully trust it" phase where I'm being conservative on top of the margin just in case. I'd rather pop a fuse than melt the loom.
Phil
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 914
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I split all my wiring up , permanent live and switched live , switched live is also split so some is live only with ignition on and some on auxiliary ( radio supply ) These main fuse boxes are fed from a third supply fuse , ignition supply and permanent supply from seperate fuses , these are both 25A which should protect the main wiring Main supply fuse box Which feeds this lot Which is covered by this
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Very nice. I rebuilt mine as per the factory. So, lights have an over current circuit breaker on the switch (bimetallic). Ignition switch has 2 outputs; one goes direct to the coil, the other goes to the fuse box. Battery feed goes heavy cable to the fuse box where it meets the alternator feed and splits off for permanently connected circuits. No aux position on the switch, just on or off.
Having dash, park, head/dip and tail light circuits also complicates the wiring, and again that's factory stock. That's why there are so many wires rolling around. Luckily I decided to color code it as much as I could.
So, about the same but fewer fuses
Phil
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2020 16:42:36 GMT by PhilA
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On the lights front: First pull of the switch engages front parking lights and tail lights. Chief is on tail light circuit up front, through a fuse. Tail light circuit also feeds glove box light and ashtray light (compass too if fitted) Dashboard feeds through rheostat from tail light circuit. Parking light circuit also powers fog light circuit through fuse box. Pull switch to position 2, front parking lights go off and power is connected to the high/low beam switch and from there to the headlights. High beam connection comes back inside to dash for telltale bulb. So, two fuses in the aux panel are connected to the lighting circuit, which is additional fun. Autronic eye if fitted adds a second foot switch by the high/low (auto/manual) which hooks into the headlight circuit and is powered from the second position. A quick scribble of what goes where gets real messy quickly. Phil
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2020 17:16:31 GMT by PhilA
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Jul 10, 2020 14:00:29 GMT
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Bought a can of silicone lubricant yesterday and liberally coated the window runners of the two doors without broken glass. Creaky helper spring notwithstanding, they now go up and down smoothly. The two that are broken show a little evidence upon better understanding of the winding mechanism. What happened is the glass got stuck in the channel at the top of the door in its closed position. Operator wound the handle to put it down, and the glass stayed put but the sash channel became detached from the bottom of the glass. At this point, the mechanism has lateral wobble because it relies upon the glass for its positioning. The handle was wound back up, the sash channel missed the glass and the mechanism hit the edge of the glass creating a huge pressure point- crack. So, new glass, possibly new runners for the driver's door, maybe new sash channels if they're rusted out and that should see the windows operational again. Phil
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2020 17:04:55 GMT by PhilA
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I did a few things this afternoon; tidied up the oil pressure light switch wiring, fixed the pressure gauge union which was leaking (I guess I didn't tighten it last time) and added a return spring to the carb to take up for a bit of slack in the linkage. Upon running it for a while to get things set up, I saw the gauge was reading a little high. Revving the engine to get a bit of coolant flow and the fan moving some air but no real discernible difference. Gauge is wrong. Engine checks out at 170 degrees. Need to recalibrate the gauge. Phil
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variable pot in the line phil ?
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