Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,888
Club RR Member Number: 15
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1951 Pontiac ChieftainFrankenhealey
@frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member 15
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Nov 14, 2019 13:53:34 GMT
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Brakes investigation follows. Face masks on the way; manual states the edges of the friction material should be beveled with a vixen file and the faces sanded smooth. Gotta love a bit of asbestos.... Phil When I think of the number of brake drums we used to blow out with an airline in my mechanic days I get to thinking. Mainly not good things. Be safe. |
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here |
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Nov 14, 2019 19:01:51 GMT
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It would probably look better if you sand them as smooth as you are able and then use clearcoat rather than red paint on them. The clear will bring the red back nicely. If the red is very faded then try an arts & crafts shop and look for glass paint, this painted on the inside brings back faded lens colours nicely.
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Nov 14, 2019 20:25:28 GMT
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Like Marc says clearcoat does help and if the lens id faded, you can paint the inside with Tamiya paint as described in the Youtube post
Peter
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Nov 14, 2019 22:59:42 GMT
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Tamiya paint is great on plastics...they even make a clear, but I doubt its very weather resistant.
that one lens you worked on looks great.
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Nov 14, 2019 23:24:35 GMT
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I used clear laquer out of a aerosol on the range rover ones, still looks fine after 3 years.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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1951 Pontiac Chieftainjamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
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Tamiya paint is great on plastics...they even make a clear, but I doubt its very weather resistant. that one lens you worked on looks great. JP Paint the inside ? James |
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Nov 15, 2019 12:10:57 GMT
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I didn't paint the inside because there are far too many sharp steps and that lacquer doesn't do sharp edges well, there's a retroreflector in the bottom that needs for the plastic to be exactly the correct shape to work, the plastic is very faded and I figured it may concern some of the smaller cracks externally.
It did, mostly
Phil
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Nov 15, 2019 13:20:45 GMT
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Why not fill it with coolant, Phil?
The engine, not the lamp!
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Nov 15, 2019 14:55:42 GMT
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Why not fill it with coolant, Phil? The engine, not the lamp! It needs flushing through a few times first. I'm filling it, running it up warm a couple times, flushing it. Once it's running cleaner I'll put proper coolant in but don't forget to fill this thing up will cost about $40 in antifreeze. Not something I just want to dump out next week... Phil |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,961
Club RR Member Number: 174
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1951 Pontiac Chieftainstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Chuck a handful of denture tablets in next time you refill, run it up to temp, leave overnight then flush it through with a hosepipe. Gets tons of built up crud out.
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Chuck a handful of denture tablets in next time you refill, run it up to temp, leave overnight then flush it through with a hosepipe. Gets tons of built up crud out.  That was the last flush through! It shifted a bit of junk. I don't want to put anything too vicious in, but it'll be running proper antifreeze with antioxidants in once it's running properly. Phil |
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  Cleaned the overflow pipe for the radiator and put it in place. That needs cleaning, fluxing and soldering in. Rear light, fitted in place looks better. Need some more lacquer to do the other side, the can is pretty much empty. Also put the strobe light on to redo the timing. Decided to hook it to each wire in sequence. 1 and 8 are during at the same time... That'll be why it's running like curse word. Phil |
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Nov 17, 2019 12:26:37 GMT
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during = firing ?
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Haha yes. My phone did that. That is my excuse.
Phil
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 Pulled the dash apart again. Reason being the speedometer was reading way off does when driving down the street here.  Spun it up on my drill and it showed a reluctance to move freely below about 25.  Added a little oil to the spindle. I guess I didn't add enough when I took it apart last time. Seems to have helped though. Phil |
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Last Edit: Nov 18, 2019 0:52:30 GMT by PhilA
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Frustrating little jobs, but I guess that is part of the appeal.
Old cars, gotta love them.
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gr88
Part of things
Posts: 24
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Doesn't 3 in 1 oil evaporate at high temperatures ?
Perhaps search ebay for "clock oil" which is designed not to need doing again every year !
They also do nice oiling pens which makes sure most oil goes where its needed and doesnt damage other parts that must not get oiled !
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Bond 875
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Nov 18, 2019 11:20:24 GMT
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I use Singer All-Purpose oil for this type of stuff.
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Nov 18, 2019 12:36:23 GMT
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I have some proper oil for doing tape machines. That went on it last time and it gummed up so I wanted something that would dilute down and flush out. 3-in-1 would not normally be my first choice for something like this but the proper stuff failed me.
Phil
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Nov 18, 2019 14:45:16 GMT
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Frustrating little jobs, but I guess that is part of the appeal. Old cars, gotta love them. The aspect of this is that I can attempt a repair. It's nothing more complicated than clockwork, with the pieces you're really not meant to take apart (odometer) riveted in but the rest capable of being dismantled and fixed by anyone familiar with clocks. Phil |
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