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Oct 30, 2018 20:02:36 GMT
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awesome job as always!.....
very inspiring, indeed.
I like the color application idea you presented...it seems to help the design by following the roof moldings....I see your stripe would go the other way, but I thing that would still look great.
2 tone may be the way to go.....red, silver, like the pic, or other colors.
great wheels!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Oct 30, 2018 20:56:48 GMT
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found the lobbachtal webpage after half an hour and it translated as we astroturfed the ground so we cant hold it there and theres no where else in lobbach to hold it essen it is then  |
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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awesome job as always!..... very inspiring, indeed. I like the color application idea you presented...it seems to help the design by following the roof moldings....I see your stripe would go the other way, but I thing that would still look great. 2 tone may be the way to go.....red, silver, like the pic, or other colors. great wheels! JP Cheers JP, the reason i bought this one was the shape of the roof. Most of the high roofs look a bit out of proportion and with the dark grey/ red combination following the lines of the roof it breaks it up a bit. Talking of wheels... i collected them today and couldn´t resist a trail fitting...  still needs dropping a bit but you get the idea.  To get them through the MOT i´ll need to extend the freshy done wheelarches a bit but it´ll be worth it.  To get the sliding door to pass the rear wheels will be a bit more difficult though.....  |
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The problem with the sliding door and the rear wheel can be fixed, if you can find the original Projekt Zwo part.
Search for - PROJEKTZWO SCHIEBETÜRKEIL AUSSTELLKEIL.
It just push the track for the door runner out, and the door clears the wheel. Maybe it is possible too fabricate it yourself?
A friend had the same wheels on his T4
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Some people leave footprints behind
... others impressions!
Choose your own style!
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small wedge on door runner will allow it to open past the wheel,easy an common fix
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The problem with the sliding door and the rear wheel can be fixed, if you can find the original Projekt Zwo part. Search for - PROJEKTZWO SCHIEBETÜRKEIL AUSSTELLKEIL. It just push the track for the door runner out, and the door clears the wheel. Maybe it is possible too fabricate it yourself? A friend had the same wheels on his T4 small wedge on door runner will allow it to open past the wheel,easy an common fix Cheers guys, the bloke i bought the wheels off had one of those wedges on his T4, it´s a quick and easy fix for the problem but didn´tt look too good.
I´ll try and bodge something up myself...... I´ve spent most of my "bustime" latly scraping off all the curse word off the bottom  and whilst i was underneath i thought i might as well take out the rear axle and give it some neu bushes and a once over with a wire brush. After twenty years and 880,000kms it definately needed sprucing up a bit...  but it cleaned up welland after a couple of hours work it´s starting to look half decent again  and with everything out of the way i can get into all the corners to scrape out all the gung.  paralell to this i´ve ben collecting some spare parts. I picked up a rust free tailgate and a couple of reversible consoles for the front seats  The rest of the goodies are all new, a complete set of brakes front and back, exhaust, front and rear lights, door seals, springs, shocks and a couple of new front wings. Looking forward to fitting it all, Cheers, Dave |
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Nov 12, 2018 15:56:08 GMT
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agree wedge aint to pretty,but its what is the "norm" now on T4 with banded steels or dished alloys,other systems/fixes tend to be expensive,allways wondered if the bottom runner could be modified to send the bottom out a little further,looks to be possible with a bit of thought to the mechanism
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Nov 12, 2018 18:26:37 GMT
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agree wedge aint to pretty,but its what is the "norm" now on T4 with banded steels or dished alloys,other systems/fixes tend to be expensive,allways wondered if the bottom runner could be modified to send the bottom out a little further,looks to be possible with a bit of thought to the mechanism The good thing with mine mate is it´ll be getting a respray anyway so it doesn´t matter too much if i play around with the bodywork a bit. Basically i´ve got two issues to solve. No. 1 is that the 10x17´s rub on the inside of the chassis and No. 2 is they stick out a bit too far ( added to that if you pull them out to far the sliding door won´t open.) In the TÜV engineers report for the wheels it states that a spacer needs to be fitted between the brake disc and wheel to solve issue No. 1  Obviously thats why the door won´t close so that was the first problem to solve. Now we´re talking a couple of millimeters here so i rebushed the axle, cleaned all the rust off, fitted a new brake disk and the new lowering springs and had another look.
Well it was still catching....  so i ground a bit off the chassis...  it didn´t evolve grinding any welds off and you can hardly tell the difference. and can now get my finger inbetween so happy with that....  With that out of the way i got stuck into problem No. 2 The TÜV report says that the wheel needs to be covered when viewed from above, it doesn´t say how though. Most people buy aftermarket wing extensions but they´re not exactly cheap and look pretty naff too. So i chopped off my freshy restored wheelarch...  bought a new wheelarch repair section, modified it a bit....  and welded it into place.  As it´s still got the original contours you can hardly tell i extended it out by 25 millimeters and it covers the whel so that´ll do me.  The last job to sort out was the door issue. Now that the wheel is 5 millimeters further in it nearly worked out, but not quite. The sliding door has a lip on the bottom that was catching the wheel... so i chopped that off, welded it all back together and  yo and behold the door now opens properly, with 255´s on 10j wheels and no wedge. To be honest it´s still pretty tight so i´ll renew the roller bearings on the door and adjust it all propely just to make sure, but as long as i don´t put too many coats of paint on the wing or wheels i should be ok. Chuffed with that Cheers, Dave |
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I don't know how the middle runner works on a t4 but on a t25 you
can extend the centre arm to push the door out a bit
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Nov 13, 2018 15:08:35 GMT
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tidy work as usuable
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Nov 18, 2018 17:49:31 GMT
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I don't know how the middle runner works on a t4 but on a t25 you can extend the centre arm to push the door out a bit I´ve ordered a new set of runner bearings and with a bit of luck i should be alright. I fancy trying to fit a table on the inside of the sliding door so i´ll probaly need to play around a bit as i´ll need a few millimeters leeway. If push comes to shove i´ll shorten the top roller to pull the bottom out a bit. I don't know how the middle runner works on a t4 but on a t25 you can extend the centre arm to push the door out a bit Cheers mate.
I´ve spent all my garage time the last few days laid underneath the T4 with a scraper and heat gun in the hand. Not much to show for all the work except a pile of rust/wax/ old underbodysealant on the garage floor...  but at least the underbody of the van is looking better for it.  I´ll give it another coat of primer in a couple of days and then i can give it all a couple of coats of "Schutz" before i sort out the left hand rear wheelarch. Cheers, Dave |
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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Nov 23, 2018 16:53:53 GMT
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While you have the rear subframe off, now would be a good time to install a rear ARB. it will make the van much nice to drive on the bendy bits of road. I still haven't got round to fitting one to my T4, but I'm currently hanging my excuse hat on the fact that I don't have a rivnut setting tool to do the job.....
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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totti
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,153
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Nov 29, 2018 10:33:21 GMT
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Guten Tach! What the hell happens here!!New project ahead!How could i missed that? Incredible work like always.....you shopped out the freshly wheelarch....!  "Zielorientiert,Endstadium" Time for a phonecall..... Greet |
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65 'Ford Taunus 17m
66' Ford Taunus 17m Turnier
73' Ford Taunus
63' Ford Taunus Transit 1250
72'Ford Escort 2000cc
71'Ford Escort 1700 4 door
89'Ford Escort Express
87'Ford Fiesta Diesel
64'Ford Cortina 1500 deluxe
57'Volvo PV 444 Califonia
54'Peugeot 203 Commerciale
2004 Harley Davidson Fat Boy
78'Zündapp ZR 20
88'MZ ETZ 250
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While you have the rear subframe off, now would be a good time to install a rear ARB. it will make the van much nice to drive on the bendy bits of road. I still haven't got round to fitting one to my T4, but I'm currently hanging my excuse hat on the fact that I don't have a rivnut setting tool to do the job..... Good idea, thanks for that. I´ve been reading up a bit on the subject and apparently an ARB was an option on the Ambulances, shame mine doesn´t have one. I´m not a fan of those rivnuts, they might be ok when fitted at the factory but i wouldn´t trust myself to fit them properly and i don´t have the setting tool either so i went to plan B.
I drilled out the hole where the rivnut should be fitted so that it would take an M8 nut and after cleaning off the zink plating just welded it into place. I´ll give it all another coat of paint and once its all fitted fill it with wax and hopefully that should be strong enough to take the ARB once i´ve found one.  Guten Tach! What the hell happens here!!New project ahead!How could i missed that? Incredible work like always.....you shopped out the freshly wheelarch....! "Zielorientiert,Endstadium" Time for a phonecall..... Greet Cheers mate, nice talking to you the other night. Normally i go by your motto " do it once and do it properly" but i couldn´t say no to those 10" Projekt Zwo wheels, so the new wheelarch just had to go  I´ll spare you the details but most of the underbody sealant is now in the bin. I took out the left hand rear axle which sounds quite straight forward but it fought me all the way with every single bolt seized, even the screws that hold the disc and dustcover in place needed drilling and retapping but with the anglegrinder warmed up i got there in the end.   and it cleaned up quite nicely too so after welding in the captive nuts for the ARB and a lick of paint it´ll be ready soon for refitting.  Cheers, Dave |
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I´ve spent lots of time cleaning up the underbody, it´s still not finished but getting there slowly  whilst i was under there i chopped out the rest of the go faster side steps, it was just a load of angle iron but where it had been screwed to the sill the small holes had turned into big ones so i needed to make up a patch. One on the inside and one the outside.  The good thing about totally stripping the van down is you get to know it a lot better, the floor was looking a bit iffy in places so to fix it all properly i´ll need to take the wooden floor and insulation out. First i had to scrape off two layers of lino, i don´t know what glue they used but i must get hold of that stuff as it took me ages to get off and needed some gentle persuasion from the heat gun. Anyway to cut a long story short it left me with this...  i managed to get the plywood out in one bit which was handy as i´ll be reusing it hopefully....   plenty of glue was used and all the wood has been screwed to the floor so i´ll need to weld up all those holes too..  which leaves me with the floor looking something like this...the small holes won´t be a problem to weld up. This little lot will take a bit longer though......  never mind anything is better than scraping off underbody sealant. Cheers, Dave |
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2018 17:08:59 GMT by Oldbus
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I´ve chopped out all the grot, ground off all the old welds and scraped off all the old paint, glue and sealant so that i could weld properly... ![]() I didn´t fancy making up a repairsection so i bought a readymade repair plate...  and after a few hours welding (i´ve seam welded it in) it´s all nice and shiney again.  The good thing about the ambulance is it has loads of goodies fitted, 230v heating and aircon, extra 12v heating in the back, 230/12v inverter, battery charger and loads of lights everywhere and and and... the electrics are going to be a nightmare to sort out though.
 Next i´ll weld up all the screw holes from the wooden floor and give it a lick of paint. Cheers, Dave
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Last Edit: Dec 9, 2018 16:06:14 GMT by Oldbus
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and here was me thinking it was just going to be a case of shoveling up left over body parts , swilling out the blood , blowing a coat of colour on it and chucking a beer fridge in the back. how wrong can you be... keep at it!
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Dec 10, 2018 18:58:26 GMT
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and here was me thinking it was just going to be a case of shoveling up left over body parts , swilling out the blood , blowing a coat of colour on it and chucking a beer fridge in the back. how wrong can you be... keep at it! Cheers mate, wish it is going to be that easy but i´m guessing i´ll end up investing as much time on this as i have on my other projects in the past (which means the wrong side of 700 hours!) I´ve been welding up all the holes in the floor and took it all back to bare metal to make sure i´d caught all the rust. The floor is definately looking better for it...  which can´t be said of the garage floor....  and after a coat of primer the first half is looking half decent again.  Cheers, Dave |
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Last Edit: Dec 10, 2018 19:00:09 GMT by Oldbus
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Dec 10, 2018 20:05:11 GMT
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the rate you are hammering it out , you will be done in no time!!
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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You going to put insulation back in under the ply ? These days I suspect they would use a sealant / glue rather than screws to speed things up.
Nice work, at least there is some value to be gained on turning out a nice one of these !
James
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