|
|
|
As above,respect. But what many fail to realise is that it's easier to repair it 'properly' than it is to bodge it. It looks scary as you may - as in this case have to remove half the car - but it's easier to work new metal than it is rust. Some pretty severe bodges done in the past though. Makes the removal of the historic mot seem stupid. Mark - I completely agree with you in relation to doing the job properly in the first place, I think that this one would have got away from the MOT tester even when it had to be tested - unsure but I think that corrosion within a sill section that was within a certain radius / distance of a main chassis member or rail on separate chassis vehicles was exempt from failure has the vehicle structure was supported by the chassis and not by the sill - I am sure that a tester will be along to correct me shortly but it was something to that effect in the book - Thing is the box section sill on the Jupiter ties the A post & front bulkhead to the B post & rear bulkhead so if that link is weak and the car is hit either front or rear on - the chances are that the bodyshell / superstructure of the car would just fold in on the occupants regardless of the very strong chassis underneath it - does not bear thinking about really !
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Great work Chris. Must be a schock for the owner, thinking he has (or had) a decent good looking car and may have paid a fair amount of money for it. It shows again that it is a big risk buying a restored car. I a+ways prefer to buy a rotten car then a (partially) restored car as you hardly find decent repaired cars, especialy when the restoration is done when the car was not very old and therefore not worth much.
Keep up the good work!
Peter
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2018 13:45:14 GMT
|
I had a feeling things might escalate when you showed us pics of the structure under the damaged wing but its way worse than I thought it would be. You have, to coin a phrase "your work cut out for you there."
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 5, 2018 10:41:16 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2018 20:41:45 GMT
|
Cleaned the inner wing brace up Quite a bit of trimming & trail fitting Then it could be welded in place - one last thing that I did do prior to this though was transfer the the out line of the panel to sheet steel just in case I need a full panel for the other side Once welded up I could re drill the brace mounting to the new panel and bolt it back up Then remove the bracing from the B post Inner face Outer face Which now leaves the upper panel supports for the rear shroud and rear quarter panel These took a sight knock in the accident and in turn it has loosened them up and exposed the rusted through areas of the two panels Utilised to pattern new panels up which I shall complete and fit tomorrow
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2018 21:35:50 GMT
|
Just headed for bed.
I had a long no and busy day, mini,al truck time, but did loads of stuff.
But obsessively needed to check in on this build.
Great progress.
|
|
|
|
bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,858
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
|
Jun 30, 2018 21:41:00 GMT
|
Bloody hell, what a mess. I reckon the best thing that ever happened to this car was dropping off a ramp! ^ WHS
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Some steady progress today Formed the flange return on upper shroud upstand and then fitted / welded in Then the lower one Dressed the shroud edge flange back over and retained the flange has per the factory method of countersunk pop rivets Retained the old panels has patterns for any future work Looked at making up a repair section for the bottom of the A post - this needs to be nice & strong has the check strap retaining bracket / yolk is supported off this along with bottom door hinge which bolts directly to the base of the A post Cleaned the area up with a flap wheel to determine a suitable cut line for the repair panel - only to find lots of deep filler Must be deep for a reason then Ah - that reason ! New section made up and ready to go However I won't attempt to fit it until I have the sill panel on has it needs to be trimmed in around the sill section so for now that's has much of the welding on this side that I can do until the sill panels arrive Plenty of other things in the interim to do though - so the straightened up wing has a few minor splits in it - it's alloy - and it's an alloy that is 65 years old - it carries so much impurity that it is next to impossible to weld with TIG, so that just leaves flame welding which again even with a high quality flux is very, very difficult. Now whilst I am a traditional type of bloke with many old school skills I am not that dismissive of new technology & materials either. So bodyshell production at the prestige end of the market has advanced / changed significantly in the last 15 + years or so - gone has the days of welded steel bodyshells which have given way to all alloy produced bodyshells which are cold process built - i.e. no welding - they are in fact bonded & riveted together and are stronger than a steel bodyshell when completed. So what's good for them is good for me Repair areas cleaned & marked Specialist material bonding - 2 pack mixed within the nozzle - 7 minute curing time (they also do a 4 minute cure) Woven bonding mesh to give a belt & braces approach Process virtually complete - easy, quick & simple - any excess material can be worked back has required Cleaned the inner rear wing repair areas up and etch primed them More tomorrow
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
christ , THIS proves my point , ignore shinney paint ,take of the rose tinted glasses . pay some one with nohow to check your potential buy over , cracking skill and work
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 2, 2018 17:59:57 GMT by shielsy68
|
|
|
|
|
I'm assuming the owner will have a reasonable restoration bill well as the insurance settlement now then Chris? Did the original estimate cover a full or partial respray?
|
|
|
|
paul99
Part of things
Posts: 410
Member is Online
|
|
|
Fantastic work there, good to see a craftsman at work Dare I ask, have you had a poke at the sill on the other side? What horrors could lurk underneath?
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 2, 2018 8:38:06 GMT by paul99
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have used a similar process to repair Land Rover panels when Tig welding proved impossible for the larger holes I glued pieces of alloy to the rear, 3 years down the line still fine, no cracks etc.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
did a land rover factory tour a couple years back, theres a cut away shell of a L405 range rover on display which is all alloy, bonded and riveted. and that's not riveted as in drill a hole fit a rivet, clench rivet. its a sharp tube shaped rivet which is fired in at high velocity, cutting its own hole and simultaneously flaring.
later on you see body shells being built, mesmerising display of robots laying perfect beads of sealant on mating faces.
very interesting to watch, also interesting that this process saved 600 kilos on the previous chassis on frame construction.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm assuming the owner will have a reasonable restoration bill well as the insurance settlement now then Chris? Did the original estimate cover a full or partial respray? Mark - I have already allowed to paint all of the nearside of the car plus blend the paint to the bulkhead & rear shroud - now will need to add the sill & door apertures possibly the A post & quarter panel on the offside - the owner has put his trust in me to sort it - the insurance will absorb the cost for sorting the inner wing in line with the accident repairs and the owner will cover the cost of the new sills & fitting - I tend to have known most of my clients for several years has the majority of them are club members - it's nice that I can trust them to trust me to do the job correctly and be fair with the invoicing - so it works both ways has far I am concerned.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fantastic work there, good to see a craftsman at work Dare I ask, have you had a poke at the sill on the other side? What horrors could lurk underneath? Probably best to just keep reading down the thread !
|
|
|
|
Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
|
|
|
did a land rover factory tour a couple years back, theres a cut away shell of a L405 range rover on display which is all alloy, bonded and riveted. and that's not riveted as in drill a hole fit a rivet, clench rivet. its a sharp tube shaped rivet which is fired in at high velocity, cutting its own hole and simultaneously flaring. later on you see body shells being built, mesmerising display of robots laying perfect beads of sealant on mating faces. very interesting to watch, also interesting that this process saved 600 kilos on the previous chassis on frame construction. Not exactly high speed - slower than a spot weld and it’s a self-piercing rivet. Buggers to set up! It’s quicker that a pop rivet though If you did the tour via the high level gangway in Bodyshop 1 (which is where the L405, L494 and L405 long wheelbase are made) then the robots you saw laying a perfect bead of sealant were probably the ones I programmed..
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Eeww!some nice bodgery there.Bet owner is glad it fell off the ramp now?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
AHHHHHH
WoW as someone mentioned earlier in the thread it's a good job it fell off the two poster.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
maybe they fancied a morgan instead
|
|
|
|
bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,858
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
|
|
Hey Zues Crisis
That is just bodgetastic
Why on earth to people think filler stops rust - I mean it takes longer to fill up and make good or glass up an entire sill with fibreglass and wood than it does to do a proper solid job!!!! (By solid proper job I mean functional rather than concours)
|
|
|
|
|