Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 11, 2019 13:33:48 GMT
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As above - G15's run a front rad and those are the alloy coolant pipes. Extra weight - all the extra plates tubes sleeves weigh in at an extra 8Kgs - Its all relative with these cars - My factory engine cover weighs 7.5kgs - the other cars covers weigh closer to 13kg! the body shell on my car is significantly lighter than the later cars. I am not a fan of galvanising - it would probably add another 8kg in weight again and make any modifications or repairs in the future an utter nightmare. Modern epoxy coatings are superb and come in a better range of colours  Besides these are supposed to be cossetted classics that only get out on high days and holidays not daily hacks out in all weathers |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,916 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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1970 Ginetta G15 jamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
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Jun 11, 2019 15:50:41 GMT
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Can you feel the extra stiffness once braced up ?
Assume you can depending on suspension set up.
James
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Last Edit: Jun 11, 2019 15:50:58 GMT by jamesd1972
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 11, 2019 16:11:44 GMT
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Repair of that upper rail corrosion - as before the inside of the tube was pretty clean with only light surface rust.  Trim a repair section to suit.  And weld it in  I then turned my attention to the rear Imp cross-member supports - get a couple of bits of 1-1/2" 16SWG box of about the right length.  Mark measure and chop to the correct dimensions x 2    And weld them in   I then completed all the welds on the triangular webs both sides and the side plates underside. Loads of sleeves/threaded bushes next. |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 11, 2019 16:36:49 GMT
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Can you feel the extra stiffness once braced up ? Assume you can depending on suspension set up. James Only PHX has been driven after these mods - BOY SLC KBW and #13 have not been on the road since the 1980's! - The biggest difference is made with the roll cage going to 8 point fixings and triangulating the side structure via the door bars - prior to doing that you can press on the rear of the cross-member where the engine hangs off normally and the whole chassis visibly bends in the middle. When on the stands in the garage you can push the rear cross-member down 3/8" before the front of the chassis will come off the stand the other end. The owner of PHX can drive a bit and he's pretty impressed with the car. |
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Jun 11, 2019 19:34:44 GMT
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what the plan to prevent corrosion between the alloy tubes and steel sleeves?
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 11, 2019 19:52:38 GMT
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what the plan to prevent corrosion between the alloy tubes and steel sleeves? Paint, or if anyone is really worried about it - personally I am not in the least bit concerned - they can use stainless, or they can use heat shrink sleeving as it goes through the chassis etc. etc. etc. The steel and alloy are not in contact and tubes are at 70C so don't see it being a problem. |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 11, 2019 19:56:44 GMT
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More welding.  Welding  Welding  And I don't need a crystal ball to tell me what's in my future.... |
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Jun 11, 2019 20:48:07 GMT
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what the plan to prevent corrosion between the alloy tubes and steel sleeves? Paint, or if anyone is really worried about it - personally I am not in the least bit concerned - they can use stainless, or they can use heat shrink sleeving as it goes through the chassis etc. etc. etc. The steel and alloy are not in contact and tubes are at 70C so don't see it being a problem. aaah...i see... didn't realise they aren't being left in. stainless would bet he way to go. |
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 13, 2019 16:04:08 GMT
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Wednesday night Pizza meet. Roll over jig works well .    Needs a few tweaks to a couple of aspects but overall it works really well moves on the floor with ease and rotates very well. Already have a request for the hire of it. |
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Last Edit: Jun 13, 2019 16:05:12 GMT by Darkspeed
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Jun 13, 2019 21:18:41 GMT
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Can you feel the extra stiffness once braced up ? Assume you can depending on suspension set up. James prior to doing that you can press on the rear of the cross-member where the engine hangs off normally and the whole chassis visibly bends in the middle. When on the stands in the garage you can push the rear cross-member down 3/8" before the front of the chassis will come off the stand the other end. I was wondering about this. The chassis looks so flat and seems to have no depth to it that would lend it any sort of rigidity. I would have expected some raised sills or a tunnel of some sort, though i appreciate there´s probably not a lot of room. I can imagine your improvements must make a massive difference. |
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Last Edit: Jun 13, 2019 21:19:15 GMT by horrido
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 13, 2019 22:53:15 GMT
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I was wondering about this. The chassis looks so flat and seems to have no depth to it that would lend it any sort of rigidity. I would have expected some raised sills or a tunnel of some sort, though i appreciate there´s probably not a lot of room. I can imagine your improvements must make a massive difference. It certainly has no great rigidity as standard in beam or torsion - the body was supposed to add to the overall structure but was never fixed sufficiently well enough to it to achieve that - some have argued that like a Kart the chassis flexibility is all part of the overall suspension design - A school of thought that I do not personally subscribe to. |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,916
Club RR Member Number: 40
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1970 Ginetta G15 jamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
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Take it that the extra bracing you put in is matched by extra bolts through to the chassis then. Has anybody experimented with modern adhesives (tiger seal type stuff) to bond as well ? Might have significant benefits.
All the explanations and kind answering of questions as well as the top metal glue stick work makes it an interesting thread - thanks for the effort.
James
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 14, 2019 13:30:49 GMT
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Take it that the extra bracing you put in is matched by extra bolts through to the chassis then. Has anybody experimented with modern adhesives (tiger seal type stuff) to bond as well ? Might have significant benefits. All the explanations and kind answering of questions as well as the top metal glue stick work makes it an interesting thread - thanks for the effort. James The body is attached to the chassis with about twice as many fasteners as original, they are in better area's and are true fixings - For me personally bonding is really a non-starter as I don't think the advantages would in any way outweigh the drawbacks if you needed to remove the car from the chassis to do any repair works if either the body or chassis got damaged in any way. |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 15, 2019 20:43:47 GMT
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Unsurprisingly today was spent on more fabrication and welding - just lots of little things that take and absolute age. 2 x sleeves 8 x threaded bushes 12 x M8 Captive nuts - the start of that task. 4 x additional front suspension brackets 1 x chassis box section repair 1 x tubular rear cantilever support O/S 1 x additional roll bar bracket O/S 1 x stitch weld to seat support strip 2 x repair plates to corroded top of upper cross-support I now have atricky repair to do around that pile of weld. Some pictures of welds!         Remember that crack I found and welded up - I uncovered the rest of it when removing the side reinforcing plate.    So there you go. |
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Jun 17, 2019 20:47:07 GMT
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well thought out mods you got that idea from 2 tonne engine crane right  |
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,971
Club RR Member Number: 29
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1970 Ginetta G15 MiataMark
@garra
Club Retro Rides Member 29
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Jun 17, 2019 21:02:25 GMT
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When I was doing my degree a friend had a G15 that he raced, I accompanied him when he raced at Thruxton (probably 1977 or 78). At the time Alison Davis was one of the top G15 racers and we ended up parked next to her. Bit embarrassing when we couldn't unload the car as the ropes holding it down had got wet. I do remember an older gentleman racing his Morgan Plus8 in a shirt and tie. I don't remember actually going in the G15, I do remember going in a colleagues TR7 that he road rallied and the front brakes catching fire after some heavy braking.
Always liked the G15 and the G21 is nice as well. The Ginetta racing that supports the BTCC is always entertaining.
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 21, 2019 18:52:42 GMT
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Got a few bits and pieces done during the week which should see me set to have this completed over the weekend and on to the next one. All of the rear chassis supports have been done just a few welds here and there to complete. Both of the mounts for the additional ROPS feet are in place.        Holes for the chassis sleeves for the ROPS done and ready to be welded.   Tomorrow will see me tackle 14 x Flat floor Mounting tabs 2 x Harness reinforcing plates 6 x ROPS sleeves Remove rear crossmember and replace with new Repair the final bits of chassis around that diabolical past repair and the chassis crack. Double checking for missed welds |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jun 22, 2019 12:22:19 GMT
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A quick lunchtime update - Moved to the alfresco welding room today far more spacious and much better ventilation. 6 chassis sleeves for ROPS prepped - Check 6 Chassis sleeves welded - Check 14 Captive nuts welded to plates - Check 14 Captive nut plates welded to chassis - Check A few more welds completed here and there - Check Photo's loaded in random order - Check           Harness plates next, and then the final bits of chassis repair. |
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,113
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Jun 22, 2019 14:22:37 GMT
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Nice one Darkness.
Remind me what ROPS means, ta.
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