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May 29, 2018 17:11:58 GMT
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Hi, Have a 1.5 NIssan/Datsun Sunny/Sentra SGL Auto, not had it running for6 months, started after a few pumps of the accelerator pedal but sounded like it was backfiring a little and auto choke wouldn't go off even after getting to usual half way on the temp gauge... went for a drive down the road, came back turned it off, waited 10 mins then went to start her again and she wouldn't idle...
Any ideas what may be happening? Pretty much a novice to Carb engines but willing to learn (have already read possible vac pipe disconnected, idle solenoid could be faulty or even the auto choke...
I would prefer someone who knows what they are doing more so than myself tbh as well as it needing an MOT asap as i need a new daily, i would be grateful of anyone that could help. I'm in South Manchester and don't mind paying someone/ a garage to do the work as long as i'm not going to get ripped off or a 'bodge job' hoping to find someone with old school mechanic knowledge if possible
Thanks for any help, Adam
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,257
Club RR Member Number: 170
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May 29, 2018 23:31:46 GMT
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Before anything take off the fuel filler cap. It could be pressurising within the tank, especially if it has a fuel return line. If the problem goes away you need a new fuel filler curse word.
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May 31, 2018 21:12:29 GMT
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Hey, tried firing her up, getting warm, switching her off then starting her up again. with the fuel filler cap off, and made no difference bud, so it looks like the problem is elsewhere. I checked all the vac lines that i could see and they all look in good condition and can't see any leaks, I also tried unplugging the auto choke/solenoid (pictured) which also didn't make any difference... so that baffled me a little as i've always thought that was going for years now.. Attached a pic of an earth that i felt might be going a bit rusty tbh but it feels tight, not sure what's going on behind it though.. Thanks for the help so far man
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May 31, 2018 21:56:43 GMT
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Hi, As it has been unused for a while the carb may need cleaning out, the old fuel in it may have crystallised or varnished up the inside of it. I can understand that could be daunting for you if you're not familiar with carbs so perhaps someone from the area could suggest a suitable garage. FWIW just because the earth screw is tight doesn't mean the earth connection is good it could have corroded up.
Colin
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Thanks Collin, i've got a few friends that may be able to help me with it, so i'll see how i get on
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Whip a couple of plugs out and check the state of them or post a picture.
Your initial description sounds like it could be either over fueling with a stuck choke, hot engine doesn't like starting with a rich mixture, or under fueling (blocked jets/venturi)once the choke has opened or 'gone off' when the engine's warm.
First and cheapest check is to clean up the electrical contact on the choke actuator (pic 1), clean the wiring connection with contact cleaner (pic2) and clean the connection at earth getting some good clean metal under the screw and cleaning the actual connector itself. Use some carb cleaner into the carb (engine off and cold)which will help de-gum the carb jets/venturi. Modern fuels break down fairly quickly and leave a brown deposit/silt which can cause blockages. So the choke may well be coming off but the carb may have a number of jets for cold,idle,acceleration etc. Switch the ignition on with a cold (Don't start it for cold position check)and then start and warm engine and see if the choke butterfly/valve moves , this is assuming it isn't stuck. If the choke mechanism is working ok i'd put money on blocked jets/venturi so a carb strip and clean is likely. My two penneth based on being old and having sworn at carbs for years but with the proviso that i don't 'know' Japanese carb's of this era. good luck
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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I'd suspect stuck choke or something gummed up / old fuel.
We had a sunny many years ago as a spare car and it would start happily after being left for weeks. Great mechanicals shame about the rust! On ours if you took the top off the aircleaner you could see inside the carb. The throttle is a disk on a spindle inside the carb - normally closed - it opens when you press the accelerator. Choke is similar - closed when cold and should be open when hot. Suggest you learn how to remove the filter top, put everything back together and go for a drive. Remove the filter top when the engine is hot and check if the choke butterfly is open or closed. Do not drive with the top off.
Things might start to work normally if you just drive it a few times, when it warms up and gets some use.
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Jun 13, 2018 22:01:49 GMT
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Jun 26, 2018 14:20:35 GMT
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So i silicon sprayed a few parts all over the carb as they all seemed a little stiff to move manually then left it a few days (as i was nervous of creating a fire...) then started her up yesterday to get warm, wait for her to get warm and then stall.. which it did.. but after a few pumps of the gas pedal then restarting it ran again at 1500-2000 rpm then as i gently touched the pedal again it slowly went down to 1000rpm and now idles! I'm now not really sure what was the problem apart from maybe some parts ie the choke had just stiffened up with not running the car as much as i probably should.. anyway grabbed a quick pic of inside the carb and the valve is now fully open when warm.. so does this mean that the choke is now working as it should? I always thought they should auto turn off as it get's warmer.. but it's never done it before so i'm not entirely sure..
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Jun 26, 2018 19:04:10 GMT
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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Jun 26, 2018 20:31:01 GMT
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Excellent news. In answer to your question about the choke flap, yes as the engine warms up the autochoke (usually some sort of bi-metallic strip) mechanism will open the choke valve. Looking at the pictures there are some bits that could do with looking at. Split pin replaced with copper wire for example! The picture after the one of the auto-choke actuator looks like some sort of broken idle adjuster behind which is that a small pipe , perhaps vacuum or overflow? Anyway if it is working ok and operating through the rev range ok, I'd be inclined to leave well alone until you can get some workshop manual or diagram relating to the carb or put it into a garage that has a mechanic and not 'technicians'. Clean or replace the plugs and if you haven't already see if you can replace the dizzy, HT leads etc as it will all help keep it starting and running. Oh and drive it
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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Jun 26, 2018 20:45:42 GMT
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john lived next door to me (family still do) does know his stuff but as you say " hes always on holiday" lol
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