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Great job you are doing! Like the others say, just weld it.
Put a small piece of cupper sheet behind the holes. This avoids burning bigger holes in the steel and gives a nicer finish which means less grinding. Works also very well when bud welding panels or repair pieces
Peter
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Great job you are doing! Like the others say, just weld it.
Put a small piece of cupper sheet behind the holes. This avoids burning bigger holes in the steel and gives a nicer finish which means less grinding. Works also very well when bud welding panels or repair pieces
Peter
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Last Edit: Aug 5, 2018 21:32:22 GMT by petervdv
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Morris fgk30 1967vulgalour
@vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member 146
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A heat sink of some sort and filling the holes with weld is loads faster than chemical metal, and a lot less faff. It also gives a much nicer end result.
For taking the paint and filler off, if you've got a heat gun and a paper scraper you might get through it fairly quickly with that. You do have to be careful not to get too much heat into the panel, so don't heat it so much the paint is blistering and burning, it just wants to be enough that the paint and filler goes soft, and then the scraper will take it off in great big long sweeps fairly easily. I didn't get the panel hotter than I could touch when I did it, and as with welding, I moved around the panel to keep the heat down as much as possible and prevent any sort of deformationissues. I don't know what they'd painted my car with back in the 90s, but this was about the only thing that would touch it, it was fairly resistant to paint strippers, thinners, and would clog just about any abrasive I tried. The factory paint came off in the usual way and didn't clog the discs, the problem was whatever they'd overpainted it with over the years.
Since the Morris is likely thicker steel and you've lots of flat-ish panels, it might be a solution for you, they should tolerate a fair bit more heat. Finish off with the discs you were using and it'll hopefully save you a few hours of graft.
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Last Edit: Aug 6, 2018 3:23:51 GMT by vulgalour
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,359
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Morris fgk30 1967glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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use a block of copper behind the hole - stops you burning through. A flattened peice of copper tube will do. This is the way to do it. ^^^^ |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Another vote for heat to remove paint and filler, pretty much the only thing which would get the thick paint and filler off our minor, scrape the bulk off with a blunt chisel then use a wire brush to get the rest off while it is still hot.
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A couple more jobs done this afternoon. First thought i would have a go at refilling the font shockers with oil as they were very weak so YouTube shocker repairs and followed what had seen drilled a hole in the bottom end drain the oil and keep a measure of how much comes out refill with new oil I used 20/50 weld hole back up job done now feels like a new shock second job was to strip the passenger side wing back to metal this one isn't as bad as the other  then finished welding the holes in the drivers side  then thought I'd have a go at this panel     this is the panel I've least been looking forward to making as the other side was a nightmare for me this one doesn't look like it's going to much easier |
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Aug 12, 2018 10:07:08 GMT
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Not had a lot of spare time over the last few days but that last panel i was doing just didn't look right so desided to scrap it and started again  almost got it finished just got to get started again also got the shassis book in for Sand blasting on the 28 of this month after it's blasted they said I can primer it at there's with acid etch primer but once it's done it's going straight to the painters wich is only a few minutes drive away so I was thinking it would be better and cleaner to let them primer is there anything that needs to go on the metal before primer like cleaning or so on just don't want any rust coming through |
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Morris fgk30 1967vulgalour
@vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member 146
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Aug 12, 2018 10:49:27 GMT
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Surprised you're redoing that panel, the first attempt looks okay in the photographs. That wing cleaned up really well.
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Aug 12, 2018 11:36:49 GMT
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When the door was shut it didn't look right were it go is around the bottom of the door spend about 2 hours fiddling with it to no avail
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Aug 12, 2018 12:13:40 GMT
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I would epoxy primer rather than etch as it stops moisture getting back to the metal. Etch does not. That's what I did to my mk2 cortina a year ago. It's still in primer and no sign of rust. Put plenty on, not just a dusting
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Last Edit: Aug 12, 2018 12:13:56 GMT by jonsey
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Aug 12, 2018 12:20:13 GMT
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 So this on't web a while back. Don't know if anyone else has posted it but thought it looked cool |
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Aug 12, 2018 12:46:23 GMT
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Thanks for the tip did see that truck on Facebook not for me but there's a lot of work gone in to it
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Aug 12, 2018 14:58:47 GMT
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Re-doing work is really frustrating!
Great idea on the shocks.
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Aug 18, 2018 21:06:38 GMT
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Aug 18, 2018 21:09:30 GMT
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Aug 18, 2018 21:10:27 GMT
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still cant work out how you turn fresh air into panels... carry on!! ;-)
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Morris fgk30 1967vulgalour
@vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member 146
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Aug 18, 2018 22:29:25 GMT
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Magic and skills.
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Aug 18, 2018 22:36:27 GMT
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Fiary dust
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