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Looks a nice one.
There's a couple of groups popped up surrounding early Discos on Facebooks, I can imagine they would be a good place to offer it to someone who would have it because it's a tidy original rather than something to saw up into yet another off the roader.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Looks a nice one. There's a couple of groups popped up surrounding early Discos on Facebooks, I can imagine they would be a good place to offer it to someone who would have it because it's a tidy original rather than something to saw up into yet another off the roader. Yeah I'll do that. I would like it to go to someone who's going to look after it if possible. As you say, these are thin on the ground already and survivors are either being turned into offroaders or broken up for defender projects It passed its MOT today anyway, albeit with a list of advisories but I will sort all of them before it's sold
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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hopeso
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Posts: 349
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Have sent you a PM.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Today's efforts Started off with the thing that's been annoying me most, which is the wipers don't park and intermittent doesn't work. The car came with a spare wiper stalk so took the old one out for a look. Contacts where pretty minging so cleaned them up and put it back in. Still no play Tried the new one Which fixed it! Nice easy fix and old wiper stalk in the bin While I was there I removed the switch for the old LED lightbar, which ad been roughly fitted to the steering column cowling I'll try and get hold of a new one Whoever had done this had sliced off insulation on the original loom and soldered these wires to it, badly. At least it was easy to remove I ended up removing the relevant pin from the plug so I could use heatshrink over the exposed wire And then a bit of self amalgamating tape Better The next bit I didnt take any photos of because I dropped my phone and smashed the glass on the screen and rear cover Which sums up how the rest of the day went Removing the stainless exhaust was an absolute pain in the A**E! Stainless exhaust with mild steel clamps which all had to be cut off. I also had to remove the throttle linkage, LPG vapouriser, MAF and air box to get out the LH manifold Anyway, Its all out without any damage to it and just needs the heads cleaning up prior to the standard system going on, complete with catalytlic converters and lambda sensors I also had a go with my new polisher Could have gone better, could have gone worse The original paint beneath the damaged paint is very thin and I just went through to primer in one bit. Ill just have to lightly polish the rest. Its just to risky to go through to the original paint and it'll look a lot better from a meter away than it does now Thats it for now. Hopefully more tomorrow Cheers!
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2018 21:31:18 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Been cracking on with disco when I can New exhaust and lambda sensors went on today Then took a rat tail file to the mounting holes on the throttle potentiometer so I can adjust it. Set it to 0.33v and tidied up the wiring a bit Then while I was putting the LPG vapouriser back in I noticed a little bit of damp below the coil Turns out one of the terminals was broken and oil has been dripping out for a while by the look of it. Swapped in the one from the range rover And after all that... well its very quiet. makes the viscous fan seem loud. It doesn't run rich anymore. But.. it still hesitates under load. Think I'll change the plugs and check the timing next. It is however drive-able on petrol and LPG now as long as you don't floor it on petrol. Nice day for it anyway
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Managed to grab a few hours before work to make a start on the bumpers After sorting a wire on the LPG vapouriser I got onto sanding down, treating surface rust and giving the bumper a skim of filler Followed by a coat of red lead Filler primer and a guide coat That just needs to cure now. I do want to go and get some dolphin glaze, just to sort some minor imperfections and then it should be good to paint On a side note, I have been running on petrol and it does seem to be improving slowly. Maybe its just that the injectors are gummed up
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Last Edit: Jul 9, 2018 13:18:20 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Managed to get hold of some dolphin glaze this afternoon Had a round trip of about an hour just running on petrol and it seems to be getting better. The symptoms are it hesitates when you go full throttle or try and reach high rpm on part throttle. Almost like the distributor isn't advancing. Or like it isn't enriching the mixture enough. It also occasionally when you come back to idle is hunting for the idle position for a few seconds, but that is lessening. I'm fairly sure, because it hasn't been run on petrol in a long time the injectors are gummed up. I have put a shot of Redex in so we'll see how we go for now. I will change the spark plugs and check the timing but i don't think its ignition related as it runs fine on LPG. Anyway Cracked on with the bumpers A bit of Dolphin glaze A whole lot more sanding And we have some nice results, which to be fair is mainly as a result of watching the likes of @grumpynorthener and others on here. So cheers Lads! Learning has taken place Next up, rear bumper
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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My 4.6 was hesitant when I first got it, but new plugs and leads sorted that. Not likely to be your issue as you say. as if it were, it would be worse on LPG. Sounds like a good old Italian Tune-Up is necessary. Anyway, it's scrubbing up nicely now.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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My 4.6 was hesitant when I first got it, but new plugs and leads sorted that. Not likely to be your issue as you say. as if it were, it would be worse on LPG. Sounds like a good old Italian Tune-Up is necessary. Anyway, it's scrubbing up nicely now. Yeah it would be nice if it sorted itself out. The only other things I can think of are a duff MAF or maybe the timings been advanced for more power on LPG
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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That front bumper - er - looks like a professional job - might just have to stop giving the tips out - next thing is you will kitting up in competition against me !
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2018 6:06:34 GMT by Deleted
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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That front bumper - er - looks like a professional job - might just have to stop giving the tips out - next thing is you will kitting up in competition against me ! Don't think I should give up the day job just yet. Maybe I'll set up a rival Jowett club though 😉
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Jul 11, 2018 12:01:32 GMT
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Check the fuel pressure at the rail, there's a shrader valve on there for the purposes of. I've used tyre gauges to check it in the past with good sucess.
It should be about 4 bar at idle.
Timing works best about 6° Before for running both petrol and gas, and best set dynamically with a timing light.
The idle control valve is also a possibility as they can gum up, and will eventually get bored of backfires on LPG and fall apart.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Jul 11, 2018 17:45:40 GMT
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Cheers. will check all of that. Think I have a spare idle contol valve kicking about from the last disco. I've got a new coil on its way as well. It's currently on the 30 year old one from the range rover
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Jul 22, 2018 20:33:44 GMT
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Well its all gone a bit tits up I've been driving the disco to work on petrol hoping that it would magically fix itself. It didn't. Its been getting worse. And then it refused to start on petrol or LPG after work. Eventually after a lot of faffing about, I found a few issues with the ignition side of things. The old coil from the Range Rover had died and the leads were of poor quality and were falling apart. The plugs where black from it running rich and also very wet from all the cranking. Dizzy cap was carbon'd up too. Anyway, fitted new plugs, leads, coil, cleaned dizzy and it fired up on LPG but ran curse word on petrol. I was low on LPG so went to get some more. When I got back I noticed the oil pressure light on. Checked the dipstick and it was way above the max. While I'd been cranking it over trying to get home from work I'd very much flooded the engine and filled the sump with fuel Entirely my own fault. The new MAF had turned up so fitted that and changed the oil. Started up, revs freely but now knocks with no oil pressure. FFS! So I've lunched the engine I'm ready to cut my losses on this thing and sell it on. I'm having the 2" suspension lift kit, wheels, stainless exhaust and LPG kit but then I'll have to sell as spares or repairs....with 12 months MOT. Today however I found out that there is a 3.5 Rover V8 sitting about the motor club. The bloke who owned it moved away at least 3 years and I'm pretty sure he only removed it to put a 4.6 in as the car was being used for competition. So what to do? Leave as is and sell as spares or swap in the free engine and sell as a runner? I suppose it will depend on the Engine. I have no idea what the differences are if its an early 3.5. In the meantime I've made a start on swapping the bits over, which has gone really badly. A running theme of this brilliant idea of mine. Started swapping the exhaust over. The manifolds went in OK but the Y-pieces are different for manual and auto cars so that bit doesn't fit. Also the hangars are different. Fannyhair! Slightly deterred but given new confidence with a fresh brew, I decided to tackle the 2" lift kit and wheels. The idea was to swap the springs and dampers from the Disco to the Range Rover and vice-versa. Starting with the rear, the springs came off lovely. On the dampers, however, there is no way holding them while you undo the 19mm nut on the bottom other than a 8mm flat, which has splayed open my 8mm spanner. On the disco I couldn't get them undone and on the Range Rover, the nut sheared off. Good start then. Swaps Bin! Tarted up the spring seat and strap on the Range Rover and Spent an inordinate amount of time with the tin of waxoil chassis paint going over all the areas I could get to with the suspension out and exhaust off. It really is very good underneath and I want to keep it that way. Not showing off my new banded GT6 wheels off at all Cheers smith4 ! Fitted And down Rake! Ill have to leave the rear dampers on the Disco as to get them off I'd have to cut the bottoms off which defeats the point. New set for the RR then. Another Expence. YAY! Onto the front. Surely the front dampers can be as stupid a design as the rears.... Oh they are Tried gripping the damper body with various medieval methods but I've been defeated....for now. I've ordered a reciprocating electric saw To take my mind off being mentally and physically broken, I thought some relaxing therapeutic polishing might be the answer And I have to say its coming up very nicely Even with the coarsest pad and cutting polish, it still wont cut through the underseal overpsray I think that leaves me with the safe option of lots of time with a clay bar or the dangerous option of colour sanding. Unless anyone knows a better way of getting off overspray?
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Jul 22, 2018 20:39:06 GMT
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I need to put my sensible hat on at some point, if I can find it, and thin the fleet down. I'll sell on the Disco as soon as I can but that still leaves me with 4 projects which realistically is too much.
So what to sell?
The Range Rover The VW T25 The Triumph GT6 Or the mini
It may well be that the RR and the T25 have to go. Maybe the mini as well
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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jollyroger
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Posts: 189
Member is Online
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It's not something I like to agree with but I have recently come down to 3 cars from 6 and it is just so much easier to stay on top of things, not spreading yourself so thin. Some people comfortably manage several at a time but for me I'm trying to remain at 3! Good luck attempting to choose which of the fleet to cull, never an easy decision.
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Jul 23, 2018 12:57:32 GMT
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Have you thought about dropping the sump and changing the big ends which is only a couple of hours work? they are usually the first to go and given it runs OK otherwise possibly all the damage you have done.
Oh and my 3.5 RR runs much better on 20/50 than the thin stuff they recommend for the later engines.
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Jul 23, 2018 13:23:51 GMT
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this was my method, ring spanner on the nut, then a stilson wrench on the body of the shock, and turn the body of the shock to undo the nut. (with bit of tube over the handle)
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2018 13:25:03 GMT by darrenh
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Jul 23, 2018 19:07:02 GMT
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this was my method, ring spanner on the nut, then a stilson wrench on the body of the shock, and turn the body of the shock to undo the nut. (with bit of tube over the handle) Looks like I need to add a Stilson wrench to my tool stores. Still need standard height dampers on the disco anyway as I believe with +2 dampers there's a risk of standard size springs dislocating. Already damaged the decent dampers on the disco anyway so will go ahead and cut them off this time
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2018 19:07:43 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Range Rover Classicivangt6
@ivangt6
Club Retro Rides Member 132
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Jul 23, 2018 19:11:25 GMT
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Have you thought about dropping the sump and changing the big ends which is only a couple of hours work? they are usually the first to go and given it runs OK otherwise possibly all the damage you have done. Oh and my 3.5 RR runs much better on 20/50 than the thin stuff they recommend for the later engines. Yeah I've thought about it but I think the mains have gone as well as there's no oil pressure. May as well Whip the sump off though even if its just for a laugh. Engine has 148000 miles on it which is pretty much rebuild o'clock for RV8's anyway I believe. I did chuck in the 10/40 that was in the boot. The range rover is on 20/50 though and I ran my last disco on it too
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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