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so, what happens if you get your panel gap you want, but the hips on the door don't match the hips/line on the rear wing ? The horizontal swages / profiles are the critical ones and very difficult to alter due to the length that they run - these are the ones where you require the alignment to be somewhere close to tolerance - so has a rule I initially disregard the vertical gapping over that of the horizontal alignment - vertical panel gaps are far easier to alter / widen / narrow - it's something that is going to have to happen on this project and that I will detail to the thread over the coming weeks |
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Another great looking job getting done your work is second to none. When doing spot welds how far away do they need to be if you don't mind me asking as I've been doing mine 8mm and 50mm apart regards Bob Bob - What you're doing sounds fine to me - you should be able to pick up on a general guide just by looking at existing panels and having a quick measure of the original spacing's - for vehicles built over the last 20 years or so the manufactures actually supply data has to what the spacing's are and what welds need to be applied when fitting new panels that are a welded fit - this is critical on vehicles that now rely on panels absorbing energy when impacted in accidents - start over or under welding panels back to modern vehicles and your NCAP 5 star rating for how your vehicle should perform and protect the occupants in the event of an accident - all of a sudden goes out of the window |
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Last Edit: May 10, 2018 7:42:43 GMT by Deleted
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It's for my morris fg 1967 there isn't that many spot welds left as the panels I've been removing was rotten or been plated but will take note of the one I have drilled out cheers 👍
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It's for my morris fg 1967 there isn't that many spot welds left as the panels I've been removing was rotten or been plated but will take note of the one I have drilled out cheers 👍 Bob - I have been following your thread - it's not going to be that critical on that cab of yours - your welding will be to closer spacing's to that of what the factory ever did and therefore stronger  |
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May 29, 2018 18:43:46 GMT
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So a interlude but now back to it  Removed the doors & front wing in order to access the last of the welding on the outer sill  Completed the closing section to the sill and the base of the A post  And the section to the B post & rear door rebate within the sill panel  Then set about dressing the welds back  Rebate cleaned up  Sill steps cleaned up   So now the support bracing could be removed - the panels were buzzed over with the DA with a 80's disc fitted - quick blow off and a wipe down with panel wipe  Then put into etching primer - with exception of the front edge of the A Post which was painted with a weld through primer for when the front wing is refitted |
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May 29, 2018 22:42:57 GMT
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It kinda tells me that you must have done something like this before....
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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May 30, 2018 11:39:17 GMT
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I was getting withdrawal symptoms....good to see you back on it!
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When I did my Mk2 Cortina the crappy repairs were a bind. That front jacking point had been repaired 4 times with all of them just snobbed on top of the last. I attempted to unpick but in the end it was easier just to cut the section of floor out and start again. The whole car would have been done in half the time if it wasn't for the previous "repairs". All very true - but sometimes those are the very repairs that meant the car was on the road - and not in the scrappies - for another year, meaning they've survived to be done properly. |
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1968 Mini MkII, 1968 VW T1, 1967 VW T1, 1974 VW T1, 1974 VW T1 1303, 1975 Mini 1000 auto, 1979 Chevette, 1981 Cortina, 1978 Mini 1000 1981 Mini City, 1981 Mini van, 1974 Mini Clubman, 1982 Metro City, 1987 Escort, 1989 Lancia Y10, 1989 Cavalier, 1990 Sierra, 1990 Renault 19, 1993 Nova, 1990 Citroen BX, 1994 Ford Scorpio, 1990 Renault Clio, 2004 Citroen C3, 2006 Citroen C2, 2004 Citroen C4, 2013 Citroen DS5. 2017 DS3 130 Plenty of other scrappers!
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When I did my Mk2 Cortina the crappy repairs were a bind. That front jacking point had been repaired 4 times with all of them just snobbed on top of the last. I attempted to unpick but in the end it was easier just to cut the section of floor out and start again. The whole car would have been done in half the time if it wasn't for the previous "repairs". All very true - but sometimes those are the very repairs that meant the car was on the road - and not in the scrappies - for another year, meaning they've survived to be done properly. I totally agree that it's the crappy repair that kept it going, but a good repair would've kept it there for longer 😊 |
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Wanted to get the front offside floorpan cleaned up on the inside before the door went back on for panel alignment with the front wing  Removed the last of the bracing  Then gave the floor pan a buzz over with a flap disc - someone had made a absolutely futile attempt at painting the floorpan with primer directly over the top of surface rust prior to throwing a bucket full of hammerite over it - absolutely pointless and achieved nothing other than make a mess for a mug like me to sort out  Welded up a few smallish areas - there is evidence of the first restoration and it's not pretty, however once the sound deadening & carpets are fitted it is completely unseen - it is strong and other than waste a lot of money on needless work in cutting the floorpans out and fitting new for something that is unseen - plan now (unless Pete objects) is to treat the areas with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 then etch prime over which I will apply a fine textured polymer sound deadening - sprayed on similar to a anti stone chip coating which can then be painted with a final colour  Rehung the front door & wing in order to set the wing return flange out  Opted to trim off the edge that meets the wing inner flange Then refitted the wing to check for fit  Now need to trim a new flange in and weld to the return - try again for fit prior to spot welding it to the front wing  Once I have that done I can start to tackle the front inner wing |
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Last Edit: Jun 5, 2018 7:20:44 GMT by Deleted
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What are the numbers written down the a post? Is that the gap or amount to be trimmed? Excellent work as always |
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What are the numbers written down the a post? Is that the gap or amount to be trimmed? Excellent work as always John - It's the measured gap from when I had the front wing fitted - then I knew how wide the panel needed to be - awkward to measure though and in the end achieved with a steel rule slipped through the door / wing aperture gap with my head stuck under the wing to read the rule / hold the torch and write the measurement onto the A post - all with my last pair of glasses balanced by one arm / ear which I managed to trash last week (new ones arrive tomorrow thankfully)  |
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Last Edit: Jun 4, 2018 21:03:35 GMT by Deleted
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John - It's the measured gap from when I had the front wing fitted - then I knew how wide the panel needed to be - awkward to measure though and in the end achieved with a steel rule slipped through the door / wing aperture gap with my head stuck under the wing to read the rule / hold the torch and write the measurement onto the A post - all with my last pair of glasses balanced by one arm / ear which I managed to trash last week (new ones arrive tomorrow thankfully) Chris, You may or may not be aware of Clic Magnetic Glasses.... They hang safely out of the way when not in use, staying near the chest when leaning over..., unlike glasses with straps, which hang directly and annoyingly between your eyes and what you're trying to see, and the magnets between eyepieces clip quickly together when in use. I've broken, misplaced or scratched up to two pair of glasses in a single day before switching to Clics. They come in various styles, in readers, sunglasses and prescription lenses. Main website: www.clicmagneticglasses.comPrescription lens page: www.clicmagneticglasses.com/clic-prescription-glasses/?sort=bestselling&page=2They DO ship to the UK Just a thought. Keep up the good work, Lance |
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Treated the floorpan with the Hydrate 80 which goes on blue in colour  But dries black  Trimmed and tacked the return edge to wing flange panel  Once checked for fitting it was fully welded & dressed back  Then tacked to the wing and the wing refitted to again to check the fit  Once I was happy with it the flange panel was spotwelded to the wing and cleaned up  Then once again checked for fitting - it just requires the flange edge dressing out slightly now to meet the A post  But have now achieved the correct fit in line with door  Along with swage line on the wing now matching that of the sill - the wing requires further repair but I shall deal with that later - my main concentration at present is complete the structural work on the offside before undertaking the panel repairs - although the top of the inner wings look ok - they are very thin in all the areas that matter  My first call is take lots of measurements / cross refences / centres / diagonals etc   Along with some notes  And you can never have too many reference pics      With the spotwelds drilled out & brackets removed  Then cut the majority of the area away with a cutting disc on the angle grinder  Then carefully trimmed the areas back as required  Exposing the areas that concerned me in the first place  The previous restoration had welded in repair sections to the top of the inner wing but not very well the strut top was not attached to the reinforcing brace at all and the repairs to bulkhead area where the inner wing attaches had been poorly executed to the point that water was seeping between the two panels and continuing to allow rust to effect the bulkhead and allow water ingress into the cockpit   Next job is to clean all the areas up - then repair the bulkhead prior to trimming the inner wing repair section in and trail fitting the outer front wing again   More tomorrow |
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Last Edit: Jun 5, 2018 20:22:25 GMT by Deleted
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Do you do jigsaws for relaxation?
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Chris, do you ever have your restorations media blasted? & if not is there reason for this?
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Chris, do you ever have your restorations media blasted? & if not is there reason for this? Mark - I do but not complete bodyshells reason being that you are only addressing half of the problem - media blasting will not access any box sections / cavities or seams within the vehicles structure whereby chemical immersion / dipping will - dipping carries has many myths / untruths / made up stories has media blasting does and between the 2 processes there is more fiction than a large library could hold. So you have to know who you are dealing with and how good the work is that they turn out - the ability to simply do the job or provide the service is not good enough for me - I need to know that they will take the care & time in order to provide the correct long term results. In a nutshell media blasting generates heat which used incorrectly on thin panels will distort them no end - dipping if used with the wrong process chemicals & procedures will create all manner of problems once the car is painted - so I always carefully research my suppliers / products - I only use one guy for my media blasting which is fine for single or loose panels / wheels / suspension components etc and he is only 20 mins away - the company I use for dipping is over a 100 miles away but is the only people I would ever trust to dip a bodyshell - let me know if you require contact details for either - Chris |
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Last Edit: Jun 6, 2018 21:58:51 GMT by Deleted
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I asked as I had mine done (very well as it happens) and it gives such a good base for paint or repairs, not to mention showing all the pin holes etc and what you don't actually have, lol.
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another "PDF manual" type set of posts from Grumpy....amazing and informational as always!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Removed the perforated area from the offside of the bulkhead  Then removed the strengthening bracket to allow better access  Has can been seen any water ingress through the perforated area went directly into the cockpit  New section tacked  Fully welded & dressed back  Quick clean up on the inside - I will give at good coat of primer - it is then hidden by the factory sound deadening  Cleaned up both the top & underside of the strut brace / support  Then washed the underbody wax from the repair areas with panel wipe  Marked the repair panel up for trimming back  Initial trim and trial fit   What looks a ok fit  Is actually some 15mm out on the bulkhead flange  The hole in panel dictates the fitting of the panel - the strut brace has not moved and there is excess panel material at the joint with the front panel  So the repair panel has had the strut hole stamped 15mm out of centre to the front  With the hole trimmed out to allow panel to be moved rearwards the correct fitting can be achieved  Leaving the strut aperture to be made good with a welded fillet  A lot better  Aperture fillet welded in and the panel trimmed and adjusted as required    Now need to tack in a few places and refit the front wing & bonnet to check for alignment More than just slightly annoyed with Ex-pressed panels whom supplied the inner wing repair panels and the simple error that takes next to nothing to do correctly in the first place - impact being that it wastes everybody else's time at their expense - given that the panels were several hundred pounds I would have expected better from them - given the poor fit of the A post & bulkhead repair panels that they also supplied I think that an e mail will be finding it's way to them very shortly - more tomorrow |
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2018 21:49:04 GMT by Deleted
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