1994 - Ford Escort Cosworth - power steering fluid tank

Only a minor amount done.

Marked for a bead

P1050983 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

slight bead added

P1050984 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I warped it a fair amount, so needed to spend some time putting it back into shape.

trimmed a piece of the hose to length and trial fitted

P1050985 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

assembles like so

P1050986 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then set about ruining my side window

P1050987 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1050988 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I need to clean back the nibs but it was getting too late for noisy so will pick up tomorrow.

P1050989 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I finally found my tailgate gas struts and gave them a quick clean and a fit.

P1060036 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I unfortunately managed to pop a corner of the tailgate perspex seal. So i'll need to pull it and re-bond it at some point. Doh

I did a quick cut on the ali tube to start the filler link tube

P1060037 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I cut it on the mitre saw. I wondered why it wasnt cutting to start with... that will be why

P1060039 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Only a single carbide tooth left. I swapped in my spare blade and it cut through easily.

I havent got round to making dies for the bead roller yet, so started a few other jobs.

I cleaned back the edge of the fixing holes in the skirts (as i used them to get cavity wax into the sills) and put silver foil tape over them to prevent moisture ingress.

Cleaned back, regreased, and fitted the door straps.

Then onto the door cards.

Cleaned them back and fitted some foam at key point to prevent rattling, and strong double sided tape in between the rivet holes.

P1060103 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1060102 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1060104 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then fitted them

P1060105 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

not the greatest but they'll do for the moment.

They're a thin skin of what looks like 200g carbon on the front face and a couple of layers of thin glass tissue on the back, set on a sheet of glass.

then on to starting resolving this issue....

P1060107 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the ballance bar tube lines up with the steering column..... so theres no space for the balance bar.

Easy, just push the pedal forward to clear and adjust the push rods to the cylinders.......

P1060108 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

except..... thats where the pedal ends up

P1060109 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

A more comprehensive solution is needed

A quick look on the internet says this is a common issue on these escort/sierra cosworth pedal boxes. Whilst i could have got the pedal box maybe 3mm further forward at the bulkhead when I set it. I need more.a lot more.

40mm more.....

as its adapted from a standard pedal box I'll cut up an exsting pedal to start with, if Not i'll make a new pedal.

P1060110 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

start workign things out

P1060111 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

more working things out

P1060112 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1060113 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

there's a large flared piece to clear the mount for the original cylinder push rod. I don't need it and its in the way. Mark for cutting.

P1060114 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

obstruction removed

P1060115 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

new tube position will be as so

P1060116 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I did the noisy bits today so I can get chance to work on it during the week hopefully.

I like the updates i also like the door cards is that just flat carbon sheet cut to fit?

Draw out the operating arcs - when you change positions like that you run the risk of losing linear motion.

Had this on the fury when the original builder modified the pedals - could not figure out why we could not bleed the brakes and the issue was the the full pedal throw was only half the M/C stroke due to the M/C pivot position in relation to pedal pivot .

You really want the mid point of the M/C stroke to be at the lowest part of the pedal operating arc - if you start past the mid point then you rapidly take the M/C pivot vertical rather than linear.

I took on board your suggestion Darkspeed and mocked up the arcs. Not 100% correct on some of the dims, but as close as I could measure with a single pair of hands.




CAD mockup

and results




What does it say..... well.....

Here in lies interpretation.

X1/X2 are the horizontal distance from the balance bar centre to the master cylinder plane.
Y1/Y2 are the vertical distance from the balance bar centre to a fixed vertical plane
L1/L2 are the linear dimensions from the centre of the balance bar to the entry point to the master cylinder.

You can see from the bottom graph that direct push is fairly linear in both cases. Correcting the offset shows there to be ~3.5mm delta over the first 100mm of travel and a further ~4.5mm delta over the next 100mm. I will be concerned if my brake pedal moves that far.

In direct horizontal motion the original position is pretty linear for the first 75mm of travel before moving a bit as it goes over centre. The new position has a delta of 10mm over the same displacement of pedal.

Y displacement is where the big difference expectedly is. The original posiiton has a swing of +/- 5mm over the full travel as its swinging centre arc. The new position move significantly. small to start with, but with a neight change of 20mm over full stroke.

What does this mean? No idea, hopefully its not too big a movement and give a falling rate pedal etc.

Anyone who knows better, your input is appreicated.

I believe so. The angle of entry change over the full range isnt particulalry wide, and when I was looking at it earlier there is quite a range of articulation with the rod pushed in.

I was driving earlier and looking at the brake pedal when I was pushing it. I need to measure still, but would be suprised if the brake pedal was being depressed more than about 50mm. Even when braking very hard on purpose.

Threw a few construction lines about together based on your drawing

A Willwood 0.7 needs 32mm of stroke ( no idea what you are using- just arbitrarily chosen) -

It looks like your pedal box geometry starts with the absolute ideal in respect of angular motion so your changes only result in an additional 7 degrees or so of arc motion for the same linear motion. If motion started later then that's when things go wrong quickly - If the full M/C stroke was 45mm it would not make it. So as you can see 15mm later than perfect geometry and the full M/C stroke starts to look doubtful. 15mm earlier is okay as its in linear acceleration rather than deceleration. - For want of a better description.

The push rod length and the M/C stroke are fixed linear parameters that effect the required angular motion at the pedal.

Just worth a check whilst you are doing the work at this point.