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Today was engine swap day. A somewhat clean engine bay, with room for activities:  DSC_0676 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr Working outside. If the rafters in the garage weren't so low we might've been able to do it inside.  DSC_0677 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr Turbo engine and M90 mounted:  DSC_0679 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr Very happy to finally see it in there. Simple things. The best part has to be the £7 (for both) Land Rover engine mounts. More rigid than standard and almost the same size. Excluding making a full exhaust (something I'd like to try but we'll see) to get it running I still need a new fuel system/lines, more wiring, figure out how to mount the intercooler (it's shallower than standard), and then even more wiring. |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Dec 18, 2017 22:18:41 GMT
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One last little update for this year, showing off some new parts following my Christmas spending spree. Rose jointed torque rods and panhard rod from Viking Fabrications, and 960 subframe braces. Painted them all last night.  DSC_0690 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr And a bucket seat which already has 940 sliding rails attached.  DSC_0689 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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steveg
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Posts: 1,586
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Dec 18, 2017 22:47:23 GMT
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Looking good, at least you don't have to worry about the ABS module being in the way ! Which side is the battery on this ?
When I swapped the engine on my 940 I switched it all over so I could use standard wiring looms.
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Good not having the abs cluttering up the space, but on the flip side there's two lines going to each of the front calipers so it's not as neat as it could be. The pedal feel is nice though.
The battery used to be on the offside but I'm putting it somewhere in the passenger area.
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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steveg
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I had a look back at the first page and see you have already been working on wiring. I assumed it would just be a case of swapping the engine bay loom but when I got into it to keep OE wiring the whole dash loom needed swapping !
If you were to fit a non standard air filter you could probably keep the battery on the offside. On a similarly equipped non turbo jetronic car I think the main differences are the lambda sensor position and the injector resistors. You don't have the ABS wiring to deal with.
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Dec 19, 2017 13:32:10 GMT
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Surprised you had to go that far. I haven't tested my theory but I think my dash and accessories will work without too much effort, except the fuel pump. The tach signal and oil pressure warning light need wired up, that should be all. For the fuel pump & relay there's more effort involved.
Edit; Need water temp too
The 940 loom is a horrible horrible thing.
Something else I haven't shown is my attempt at making an Arduino boost guage for a stealthy dash install, but I need to get it working first.
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2017 13:42:04 GMT by petemac
1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Dec 19, 2017 14:40:31 GMT
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The turbo-non turbo looms are different up to the large connectors on the passenger side A post where the loom goes to the rear. I made the mistake of buying a donor car that was a few months newer that had a single fuel pump rather then the two. That was only to make it as per factory though, trouble was once I had changed a few things it was easier to carry on.
I really must read whole threads before answering as I put most of this in a previous post, was a while ago though, sorry.
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2017 14:43:31 GMT by steveg
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Dec 27, 2017 18:47:40 GMT
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Got the Arduino boost gauge working, with help from someone that actually knows what they're doing. The display is much clearer than the photo shows. The benefit of this is just that the little display is slightly easier to integrate into the dashboard in an OE-looking way.
 DSC_0697 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr  DSC_0698 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Jan 21, 2018 20:27:26 GMT
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Mmmmm rods. Torque rods & panhard rod installed.  DSC_0714 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr I installed the modified wiring loom and taped up the loose sections in the engine bay - happy enough with how it fits and looks. (Sort of avoiding pictures until a few more things are sorted in the engine bay) Turns out I neglected to number the injector connectors so I have no idea which is which. Now I've got this mess to sort out in the passenger footwell.  DSC_0717 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr Opinions welcome; battery behind the passenger seat or in the boot? |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:18:08 GMT
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Buttoned up a few little things. The coolant hose from the N/A reservoir doesn't have a 'T' to go to the turbo. So I did the logical thing and shelled out for a whole do88 coolant hose kit. It hasn't arrived yet. Decided to put the battery in the boot rather than behind the passenger seat. The boot floor provides a nice position. This required a 4m extension, hope it carries enough juice! It was more convenient to use the 740's original battery wiring at this end than the 940's. I fabricobbled up some dodgy brackets for the battery. They need a bit more work. So far I've managed to avoid drilling any new holes.  DSC_0721 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr I've got the battery extension going to this junction box. It's handy for connecting the 740's dash/accessory power cable (which originally went straight to the battery), and for anything else that may need constant 12v.  DSC_0722 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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More dodgy fabricobbling. I made a mount for the Isuzu intercooler - steel mounts bolted to an aluminium "air dam" to stop the air escaping underneath (the intercooler is not as tall as original, but much thicker). I put little foam pads on the mounts so it won't wear through the intercooler, and I'll paint the steel mounts later on.  DSC_0725 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr  DSC_0726 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr The standard top mounts can be made to work but need re-drilling. Slightly worried that this pushes the radiator forwards and I haven't tried fitting the electric fan yet.  DSC_0727 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr I wired up a few things for the ECU and EZK. Need to tackle the fuel system soon, both wiring and plumbing. Not really looking forward to that. I'm tempted to get all the lines from a 940 rather than make something new. Also need to check whether the lines entering and exiting the tank are low pressure lines on the 740, because it had the dual pump setup. |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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I think they will be low pressure. My 940 was up to the under floor pump. The early and late fuel tanks were the same it was just a case of swapping the sender unit and pump from the later car on mine.
I don't know if there is any advantage to having seperate pumps. It possibly easier to change the under floor pump if you have a problem.
I think I only decide to swap mine as I was worried the under floor pump might not be good enough.
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Jun 11, 2018 21:38:45 GMT
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I kind of wanted the next post to involve starting the engine, but progress is slow as ever. I wired up the fuel pump relay to work as LH2.4 desires, but then I made matters more complicated by running two pumps with a swirl pot in between. Seems like a good idea to go overkill on the fuel system. The problem is that my current LH2.4 setup would prime both pumps when starting, but I need the in-tank pump to prime for quite some time in order to fill up the swirl pot and avoid the second pump starting dry. I might just wire an override switch to the in-tank pump.  DSC_0771 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr It's satisfying being able to fit the new pump and mini filter on the original bracket.  DSC_0760 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr What slowed me down massively was picking up a rather rusty old Volvo. So this is my new daily, and it came with a whole host of problems! Not to mention it was disgusting inside and out. It has already undergone a big transformation, but I didn't take any 'before' photos. (just picture a really nasty 940 with none of the nice things you see there!) On the plus side it came with a few pleasant surprises like a turbo plus system and a 1041 axle. I think it needs a replacement steering column, and then to fix the air-con.  DSC_0762 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Oct 14, 2018 17:55:09 GMT
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4 months later and it still doesn't run. I tried to start it in late June. No spark. Done a whole load of testing since then and still haven't figured it out. It'll be something stupid, no doubt. I moved onto building an exhaust. It's my first time welding, so don't zoom in. It's 3" going to 2.5" just before the rear axle, only because I wanted to use the 2.5" silencer that was previously on the car. Cutting and shaping pipes with only an angle grinder is not the best. It took me way longer than expected. As well as the no spark problem I need to correct the fuel pump wiring. I don't want both pumps taking power from the same source.  DSC_0904 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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It finally runs!  5 months after the first attempt. Video proof below, it's not very exciting.  VID_51180927_021323_273 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr There's a misfire or bad timing or similar. The fuel is ancient, the spark plugs are ancient, it could be various things. I also have no idea which injector plugs are supposed to go on which injectors! Bizarrely, changing them around didn't make much difference. Now onto the problems that gave me this 5 month headache. I checked just about everything that could be checked. It turned out that I used the wrong power source for the ECU & EZK, so they were losing power during cranking. Reading about LH2.4 swaps on turbobricks gave me the idea to check this. I sorted this problem roughly two months ago. Some time before this I swapped out the ignition amplifier, just to be sure it wasn't the cause. Then after sorting that power issue I still had no spark. Eventually I found out that the ignition amplifier was receiving a good signal, but producing nothing. For a couple of weeks I refused to believe that the amplifier was bad. It was the only new component in the whole system. This week I decided I might as well put the old amplifier back on, in the slim chance that the new one was broken. I had spark again! Then it immediately tried to kill itself on first startup. Apparently I didn't tighten the tensioner for the timing belt (what a willy), which led to the belt sliding off the pulleys and rubbing through the plastic covers. I should've taken a photo. There's a perfectly formed belt shaped cut in my plastic cover! Luckily the belt didn't totally come off. I put a new one on today and all is well, except from that misfire. I've also fitted BC coilovers on the front, but I'll write about that once I've figured out the rear suspension. |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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I have re-linked some of the photos on the first post.
It's running better now with new spark plugs. But I think the problem was the HT leads. One of the connectors had pushed inwards and was probably barely touching the plug. Slightly annoying considering they're brand new from Volvo.
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Getting there! Keep at it! Massive soft spot for these old bricks.
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster
1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter
1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber
1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander
1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon
1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project
1979 Lomax 224
2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Jan 27, 2019 17:56:05 GMT
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Apologies for all the writing and lack of pictures. I mentioned talking more about the coilovers, but there's not a whole lot to say. There were some minor difficulties. The front top plates didn't seem to be drilled equally, so I had to slot the holes on one side so that the little adjustment screws weren't underneath the strut tower. The rears are Gaz. They came with spacers that didn't fit. More grinding & shaving required. Hooray for aftermarket parts! I'm not sure if I'll use them long term anyway. I switched up the wheels (sorry no pics yet). I was going to run adaptors with Borbet Type A wheels, which were pretty cool but poked out perhaps a little too far. Plus adaptors are annoying when you're frequently working on brakes & suspension. So I picked up some black Volvo Galaxy wheels. Maybe I'll try to space them out a little bit in future. In order to run the engine for longer I wanted to know the exact water temperature. I'm avoiding trying to wire up the original water temperature gauge. I already have a Stack boost gauge, so I went with Stack again for both water temperature and oil pressure.  DSC_0966 by Peter Macdonald, on Flickr BUT, I don't trust them, particularly the water temperature. I'm hoping it's just a bad ground. It wasn't keen on running today. First of all it wouldn't start. I remembered that I'd put the ECU's original chip back in, which might be causing an immobiliser issue. I was correct, my spare ECU with no immobiliser worked fine. Then after a few minutes it blew the fuse between the power source and the fuel pumps. I was lucky to find this so quickly (this fuse is in the engine bay). I've probably moved the problem to the next weakest link (the fuel pump relay?) by using a higher rated fuse. After that I thought all was well until I checked the battery voltage. It's not charging. I haven't investigated this yet. Tune in next time to find out if I've scrapped the damn thing! |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:22:44 GMT
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My fails might be amusing to some. The alternator didn't appear to be working. I proceeded to buy THREE incorrect alternators on eBay. The last seller was able to exchange the wrong one for the right one. Fitted it, still no charge. After a while I considered that I didn't really know the function of the third wire on the alternator. A bit of googling told me that it's the exciter wire for the regulator, so it's live when ignition is on. Testing it revealed that it wasn't getting power. (Total waste of time and money buying three alternators) I traced this to a wire in the passenger area that I had previously marked as "NOT USED".  I didn't put a whole lot of thought into which ignition source to tap into. Started the engine and finally had 14V. Then turned the ignition off and the car kept running.  So I removed the battery terminals, and it STILL kept running. I had tapped into the worst possible ignition source, so the alternator was continuing to power the ECU. I've since changed the source and all is well. I suppose I've learned something. The fuel pump is now a lot louder. There's a possibility that the extra voltage is helping, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if I've damaged it due to running it dry by accident. Unfortunately I'll have to delay putting it on the road, maybe a few months, but I'll get some pictures once I've tidied things up a bit. |
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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Mar 22, 2019 18:07:50 GMT
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1988 740 Turbo, 1998 V90, 1991 Eunos Roadster.
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5 months after the first attempt.
So I removed the battery terminals, and it STILL kept running. 
