1967 Morris Oxford Traveller - off to a new home

The end of the rust repairs is almost in sight !!!!

I believe I've now got strong chassis rails, and the inner sills are all new.
So it was time to make up a couple of outriggers in the style of the factory ones.



Floorpan was next on the list . Nice big holds for puddle welds. I couldn't work out how to clamp this panel in place, without tight clamping, I don't think spotwelds work with my equipment/skill.



A lot of seaming and big puddle welds, and that isn't going anywhere.



There is a small section of floorpan still to do, where the handbrake is, but the structural welding is pretty much done 

Plenty of details stuff to do around the a-pillar, inner front wing, but definitely getting there.

Been a few months since an update.

The recent heatwave and work kept me out of the garage for a while.

A Daimler Double Six is now in the stable, and that takes a bit of my time..

But I'm back in the saddle with the Morris now.

Drivers side rear floorpan is all welded up, and cleaned back ready for kurust/primer/seam-sealer/stonechip/top-coat




The front floorpan is in the same state




It always looks the worst before the paint starts going on, but there is plenty of new metal and loads of welding to replace the previous iffy repairs.

The outer sill is also 100% on



Lots of plug welds and the odd seam weld keeps that in place.

The front wing, still needs work, but I'm going to get the underside tidied first.

Then I can put it back on the deck, and start trying to get the doors to fit properly. They never did fit well, as they were replacements, but all this fab hasn't improved things.



Thanks for looking

Cracking efforts! Subscribed!

With the seam sealer drying on the shell, I couldn't make a mess in the garage.....
But on the outside workbench is a tatty MGB axle I picked up a while back.

The MGB Salisbury axle is a straightforward swap, but crucially for a conversion to 4-link, it isn't a cast casing, so I can weld on whatever brackets I need.

This is what I started with - useless brackets everywhere





A couple of cutting discs, a grinder disc, and a flap wheel to finish, and an hour or two later we have this



Pretty happy with that, the drain and fill bungs are loose. The back lash and bearings all seem pretty good.
The drums and backplates just need a clean-up. New cylinders and few other little bits will get the brakes working.

But that was a diversion. I need to keep focused on the shell whilst the weather is good. The 4-link can wait until the winter.

I guess as the upper links are effectively form an A arm, it serves the purpose of lateral location too? (no panhard or other required)

Some good progress this weekend.

The drivers side inner floor pans are all painted



This area gave me some trouble, and involved quite a time consuming rework.
it is under the rear seat, but is quite visible when the seats are folded, so it has to be presentable, which it is now



After putting the stonechip on - it looked like this - arrrgghhh - ugly. That will not do



Nothing for it, but to gouge it all out, and get to the root of the problem.... what did I find .... a badly welded in patch.
Some of my earliest work...cough...



My penance was filler work in an awkward corner - duly paid.


Whilst the filler layers were drying I hot-footed it over to the work bench to fit up the 4-link bars.



Plug welds and seam welds for belt and braces.



They ground back nicely with a flap disc



A quick coat of etch primer, to stop them going rusty, and fit them up



Only done one end so far, as I will have to cut them to length - just don't know what length yet ;-)

Great work as allways but as above you surely got to have some sort of rubber or poly bush at one end other wise the ride would shake you to death!

It would take more than a few rose joints to make the handling of an A60 crisp!!!!!!

i can see as a result of the top and bottom arms being unequal length and not working in paralell (in same arc) to each other, is going to result in some funky caster changes during body roll, which will be specific to each side of the vehicle as it happens

If one side is in droop the other in bump, the different length arms will try to rotate the axle (caster) but only at one end of the axle. but it won't be able to rotate as the trailing arms are fixed length and rose jointed, and the arms on the other end of the axle will prevent it rotating. so it will pull or push chassis mountings/ axle mountings. not so much a lack of articulation, but a lack of reciprocation

Effectively the arms need to get marginally longer or shorter depending on where the axle is at, and rubber bushing would allow that