moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Dec 19, 2017 21:10:28 GMT
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Well I did some spot-welding, and got the outer sill on Then I went hunting some rust !! My welding gas has been on zero for a while, and I wanted to get a new bottle before the holiday season. Boy I wasn't disappointed. I took the gearbox cross-member off, and I was quite shocked at what I saw. It isn't particularly clear, but the rust coloured area is a hole - where there should be box section !! Nothing for it, but to cut out both side of the chassis rail free of some of the old repairs, and back to bare strong steel. Start welding in some steel - gas is still going..... The cross-member mount had been butchered previously, so quicker to make up a new one Then some more welding - gas is still going...... I'm going to have to do some more surgery to the left of the repair, so I didn't bother finishing it off too neatly yet Doing repairs to even my standards takes time, and effort, so I'm not surprised this vehicle has received lots of patches etc in the past. But the brake lines.....cable ties......mot'd.....I'm shocked
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 11, 2018 16:27:36 GMT
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Had a big push over the Christmas Holidays to get the nearside finished. But repair panels for the front wings are on back order, and the drivers side was tight against the wall, so making a template was going to be tricky, so I left it and did other stuff The passenger side floor, I primed, seam sealed, stone-chipped, and then blew over with some Cellulose top-coat I had. Then I started to finish off the underside. I didn't want a wax/underseal finish, as I'm doing the work in stages, and it will be a lot nicer to work underneath a painted surface. Not going for any show finish, just don't want clumps of underseal in my hair Same deal, primer, seal sealer, Upol Gravitex, and then Cellulose top-coat. Then the Australian flu got a hold of me, and progress stopped for a week or two. I'm slowly on the mend, so the gearbox cross-member was cleaned and painted and refitted with new rubber mounts. Silver paint may well turn out to be temporary, but will do for now. Boot floor is looking rather good, especially with the new fuel line in place. I've got an MGB back axle to get swapped in at some point, so I didn't bother masking the running gear. I took this opportunity to re-work the exhaust. I wasn't interested in a noisy performance exhaust, but it banged around a lot. So a side exit out of all the original components was the order of the day. A couple of cuts, and £10 worth of brackets and clamps got me this I'll be treating this as a prototype, but at least keeps the car running whist I do the rest of the structural work. The original chrome tailpipe has been re-purposed temporarily. Connecting up the fuel pipe to a temporary fuel tank is next on the agenda, so I can drive the car out of the garage, and start on the other side. Thanks for looking.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jan 11, 2018 16:34:20 GMT
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floor looks great ! do you have any issues with the celly thinners reacting with what you have used to prep the panels ?
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 11, 2018 16:56:52 GMT
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floor looks great ! do you have any issues with the celly thinners reacting with what you have used to prep the panels ? Thanks - no reactions thankfully. I checked and Upol Gravitex stonechip is cellulose based anyway.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jan 11, 2018 17:22:13 GMT
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What advantages will the MGB axle give you?
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 11, 2018 19:33:55 GMT
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What advantages will the MGB axle give you? I like messing with suspension, so I'm eventually going to do a 4-link setup on the back, and bin the knackered rear leaves. The MGB axle has steel tubes, and a diff casing, rather than the A60 axle which is one giant casting. The MGB axle I can weld brackets to, whereas I'd struggle with the casting. The MGB axle also has a Salisbury diff - which is pretty much unbreakable and has a wide choice of ratios. Also A60 axles are getting a little rare and sought after, whereas the MGB axle cost me £30 delivered So if it doesn't work out like I hope, I can just refit the original axle.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jan 11, 2018 20:04:06 GMT
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Ok thanks for taking the time to explain.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 14, 2018 18:19:05 GMT
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Still not quite ready for another marathon stint with the welder and grinders. But I did get the old bus out of the garage and turned around - good to see it with one good sill and rear wing at last. Quite liking the in-progress / rat look. Which is just as well as it is going to be a while before I get around to paint. The MGB axle seems pretty complete, I'll need to store it outside for a while. I'm thinking just some grease on the wheel studs, as a bit of rain isn't going to make it any worse Yesterday was a day out in Bristol, visited the SS Great Britain, which was very interesting. It was also interesting to note that there are rustier things than my Morris in this world But the real reason was some parts chasing. I picked up a lower tailgate in much better condition than mine. Those with keen eye sight will notice that the rear number plate has already been frenched-in. Which I think is really cool in an old school style. The frenching will also allow me to fit some tiny rear number plate lights, and loose the massive ugly factory light. Be really nice to get the drivers side welded up, so I can have some fun with these mild customs touches.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,300
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 14, 2018 19:22:23 GMT
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That lower tailgate is a bit of a find, can't be too many of those knocking about in any condition.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 14, 2018 21:50:26 GMT
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That lower tailgate is a bit of a find, can't be too many of those knocking about in any condition. Anything that is specific to the Traveller/Countryman is pretty rare, so I tend to grab bits when I can. Ironically there was a NOS tailgate up for sale before Christmas, but I missed out on that one. I spent a lot of time repairing my top-tailgate, as I've never seen a decent one for sale.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 16, 2018 19:28:59 GMT
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Sparked up the grinders and went rust hunting on the drivers side rear wing, and wheel arch. I knew I wasn't going to be disappointed, but it is much shape that the passenger side Only the bottom 9" of the rear wing needs replacing - the wheel arch inner/outer is in pretty good shape. That is going to save a bunch of time, compared to the complete lower wing I had to do on the other side. With that section of the wing removed - previous bodges clearly visible. I had made a floor repair section whilst doing the other side - that'll come in handy A bit of forethought means I've got a rear wing to cut a repair panel from too. Doing that panel join will test my skills, of not only cutting a straight line (!!) but welding it up with minimal distortion. I've got a set of intergrips - so I could go for a butt joint, but there isn't any factory bracing anywhere close, so I'm thinking I'll do a joddled joint with some spot welds, before seaming it in very short burst from the welder. Wish me luck
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jan 16, 2018 19:39:22 GMT
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Doing that panel join will test my skills, of not only cutting a straight line (!!) but welding it up with minimal distortion. I've got a set of intergrips - so I could go for a butt joint, but there isn't any factory bracing anywhere close, so I'm thinking I'll do a joddled joint with some spot welds, before seaming it in very short burst from the welder. Wish me luck luck! genuinely hope it works otherwise i'm going to be stuck for ideas doing my track car rear arches
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,300
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 16, 2018 21:51:25 GMT
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I'm sure you'll do fine, looking at the other work you've done. We have faith in your abilities. What's with the massive chunk of chequerplate?
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 16, 2018 22:15:08 GMT
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I'm sure you'll do fine, looking at the other work you've done. We have faith in your abilities. What's with the massive chunk of chequerplate? Thanks The massive piece of chequerplate was the previous owners attempt at making a strong tow-bar bracket. I'll be cutting that out and the iffy chassis rail repair next to it, and try and make that whole area a little more presentable.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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rollingcoal
Part of things
we can engineer a way around that, maybe
Posts: 193
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daffs are coming on , be spring soon
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A55 Austin Cambridge 1961 Triumph Spartan 1965 mk1 Ford Escort 2 door 1968 Peugeot 406 diesel estate 1998 Citroen Xsara hatchback diesel 1999
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 19, 2018 20:44:55 GMT
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Vulgalor mentioned the chequerplate - it is gone I chopped open the rear section of chassis rail, to see what I was dealing with. Lots of rust flakes and just four thicknesses of steel on the bottom of the rails. I think the the rails are made in two sections originally, so just two repairs on the original rusty chassis !! The inner section got some repair and zinc primer Making a L-shaped section for the outer section of the chassis was easy enough, but I lost my welding fu I struggled with power and wire feed settings, and even added more gas. But there just wasn't penetration, lots of sparks coming off of porous welds. I could hear gas coming from the torch, and the regulator said there was plenty of flow. But it was the absolute bottom of the bottle, and the last dregs weren't doing their job. Spent my money and got a fresh bottle. Ground and cut out the original welds, and re-did them. Hindsight and the pictures shows lots of brown "smoke" stains on the dodgy welds, which should have given me the clues. A tickle with the flap wheel and that is a big section of chassis tidied up - happy with that. Section of the boot floor and trial fitting of the rear wing are on the list for the weekend
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2018 20:47:51 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,300
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 19, 2018 22:30:40 GMT
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That looks loads nicer!
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 21, 2018 18:52:15 GMT
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Fitting repair panels, as complicated as wing sections is no fun. Endless fit, mark, remove, trim, fit means I'm knackered. Still pretty happy with the progress so far Got the boot floor section tacked into place Spent ages getting the lower wing aligned properly and a joddled joint. But the fit seems pretty good Wasn't quite as lucky round the back, that area had previously had a bit of a whack, so some of my measurements were a bit off. Still no biggie, that whole area is covered by a chrome trim, so it doesn't have to show. Easy enough to fix anyway Just a bit of a slog now to get that area ready for primer, seam sealer and paint. Thanks for looking
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jan 28, 2018 22:34:09 GMT
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My rear bumper irons were unusable, they had been gas-axed and snotted back together - gawd only knows why. I thought I was going to have to make something, but I managed to source a pair - kinda glad about that - they look awkward. So the whole backend has changed - Chassis rails where the bumper irons bolt in - remade
- Bumper irons from a donor vehicle
- Rear wings replaced in sections from a different donor vehicle
- 2 out of 3 section of bumpers are new to this vehicle
Best I bolt it all together to make sure it is going to work Yep - I can work with that - good progress. The plan is to get the chrome removed from the bumper, then weld up all the holes, and join it into a one piece items with captive fittings, so it is completely smooth. But the garnish is a little way away. Whilst the seam sealer was drying on the rear inner wing, I took the slitting disk to the drivers side outer sill. I knew it wasn't going to pretty - but cutting through 16mm of filler makes a blinkin' mess Eventually unpicked most of the previous repairs and demoted them to the garage floor - nice. Inner sills are pretty much as bad as the other side, but this side has a big chunk of angle iron to cut out too. Moral of the story - if you see a car with loads of banger racing stickers in the back window - don't buy it !! Deep joy
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,300
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 28, 2018 22:52:03 GMT
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Those sill repairs are impressively bad! Looking forward to seeing all of that as well sorted as the back end.
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