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May 23, 2017 20:20:33 GMT
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Sunbuilder. I made this a month or so a go, it took me about 30hrs to get to this stage, as you would know there is a copper ring fitted to a rebate around the wheelarch, but as it's just a practice piece, I didn't bother. Looks alright next to the E type wing I've studied a lot of Cobra build pictures, trying to work out joint positions, but every coachbuilder has their own variation, especially around the front opening & headlights. I hope to start on it this year, I've got a fibreglass body, but it's not accurate, so I'll have modify it quite a bit. You'll have to take a break from from all that sunshine & sand in Greece & come back to drissly old Blighty, I'll let you help me on the Cobra, it'll keep your hand in, I'm only thinking of you of course
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Last Edit: May 23, 2017 20:21:28 GMT by maxakarudy
Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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May 23, 2017 20:50:42 GMT
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I am going to assume that you have seen the "Father and Son" Cobra build on the Metalmeet forum; where the two are using a fiberglass body as the buck to recreate an alloy body?
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May 23, 2017 21:13:25 GMT
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You mean Frank & Bam yep. They were working on the 427 body, mine will be 289 with skinny hips and all original leafspring suspension & running gear along with the correct 3" round tube chassis, not a modern kitcar version.
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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May 24, 2017 15:27:44 GMT
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This is one of the bodys that I helped build for a guy called W Oswald. It caused a lot of Furore at the time as it was a replica of a real replica and we actually slightly damaged the paint on the origional that we used to build the wood and fibreglass buck. Very easy body shape though. I was only the panel beater though. www.flickr.com/photos/45676495@N05/15454817771Whilst I lived in Stroud. I also fitted the carpets and hoods along with other bits and pieces to these Austin Healey fibreglass replicas with rover v8 engines until they closed down. Most went to Germany and they were even on top gear but unfortunately were just too expensive for the UK market www.classic-chrome.net/cars/austin-healey-3000-mkiii-replica-by-hmc-2002-private-plate-green
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With your skill why build a replica at all? I mean a replica is just a copy of another mans work. No doubt it takes skill to make a good copy but if i had your skills id just build my own version of car of the period I liked. Perhaps like these gentleman have done www.effeffecars.com.
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1987 Alfa Milano/75 1979 Alfetta Mille Miglia 1976 Alfetta GT race car 1970 Lancia Fulvia 1.3 Rallye S 1968 Fiat 850 spider
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May 25, 2017 19:51:26 GMT
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With your skill why build a replica at all? I mean a replica is just a copy of another mans work. No doubt it takes skill to make a good copy but if i had your skills id just build my own version of car of the period I liked. Perhaps like these gentleman have done www.effeffecars.com. Thanks for your comment, I'll try to justify it....... The Cobra is a serious build in it's own right, might take a few years at least as it's been 2yrs in the planning already. I see the Cobra as yard stick, as a lot of people know what the Cobra is & what it should look like, making something to your own design allows you a lot of artistic license, so in some ways the Cobra is more difficult to pull off & get it right. Regarding a unique build, I'm way ahead of you mate, I bought a TVR Chimera chassis & running gear a few years a go, for exactly what you suggest, but building an off plan scratch built car takes a lot more planning and I'm still developing my skill set, a few wings are one thing, but a unique scratch build is another, however the seed has already been sewn For the future, I'm very open minded about design, something modern looking, but with a touch of Retro, covered all bases there haven't I
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Last Edit: May 25, 2017 19:57:18 GMT by maxakarudy
Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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May 25, 2017 20:13:30 GMT
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This is one of the bodys that I helped build for a guy called W Oswald. It caused a lot of Furore at the time as it was a replica of a real replica and we actually slightly damaged the paint on the origional that we used to build the wood and fibreglass buck. Very easy body shape though. I was only the panel beater though. www.flickr.com/photos/45676495@N05/15454817771Whilst I lived in Stroud. I also fitted the carpets and hoods along with other bits and pieces to these Austin Healey fibreglass replicas with rover v8 engines until they closed down. Most went to Germany and they were even on top gear but unfortunately were just too expensive for the UK market www.classic-chrome.net/cars/austin-healey-3000-mkiii-replica-by-hmc-2002-private-plate-greenSome great work there Robert, you must be very proud of it and thanks for sharing your fantastic photograph collection. I remember the HMC company, I never quite got the point of a replica when the originals were the same money, but they did look really nice.
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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May 25, 2017 22:40:49 GMT
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With your skill why build a replica at all? I mean a replica is just a copy of another mans work. No doubt it takes skill to make a good copy but if i had your skills id just build my own version of car of the period I liked. Perhaps like these gentleman have done www.effeffecars.com. Thanks for your comment, I'll try to justify it....... The Cobra is a serious build in it's own right, might take a few years at least as it's been 2yrs in the planning already. I see the Cobra as yard stick, as a lot of people know what the Cobra is & what it should look like, making something to your own design allows you a lot of artistic license, so in some ways the Cobra is more difficult to pull off & get it right. Regarding a unique build, I'm way ahead of you mate, I bought a TVR Chimera chassis & running gear a few years a go, for exactly what you suggest, but building an off plan scratch built car takes a lot more planning and I'm still developing my skill set, a few wings are one thing, but a unique scratch build is another, however the seed has already been sewn For the future, I'm very open minded about design, something modern looking, but with a touch of Retro, covered all bases there haven't I Great points. I'm going to build an Alfa P2 type roadster. I say "type" because even though it will be all Alfa mechanicals it won't be correct as I cant afford the straight eight engine. Therefore I won't try to build a replica, just a roadster in the period correct style. My sheet metal skill is not at your level yet but I'm learning all the time. Watching your thread with interest.
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1987 Alfa Milano/75 1979 Alfetta Mille Miglia 1976 Alfetta GT race car 1970 Lancia Fulvia 1.3 Rallye S 1968 Fiat 850 spider
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The Alfa sounds like a great project, have you designed the body & chassis yet & how will you produce your buck?
The Cobra ticks all my boxes & I think it's a quite unique car to build these days, as the Ford engines & gearboxes are still available and parts supply is good, chassis is very agricultural & straight forward, suspension & running gear is available, so it's one the most iconic cars that can be built as a true replica in every detail, I'm not a kitcar person, so a replica it has to be.
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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A bit more metal work, this time hi-tech, drum roll please.... I had to replace the sills on my Aston Martin V8, I didn't intend to restore it, but you know how these things get out of hand once you've started. With the AMV8, you have to cut 5" off the lower wings to do the job properly, unlike the previous owner who decided it was acceptable to pop rivet the panel back on (wtf). Not being to confident at that time a few years ago to tig or gas weld it back together, I chose to mig weld it back on after I replaced the sills. This is not your normal mig, it's a pulse synergic type, really good at thin sheet, down to 1.5mm, I use it at work quite a lot so hence why I chose to use it.. pop riveted repair, see the dots & how much filler was in the panel I made the panel, then seam welded it on, very little distortion, but the spot weld technique for mild steel doesn't work to well with ali, so I had to be brave & hold the trigger on Ground down weld Hammer & dollied back to shape, now just primer & paint.
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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I'm a signmaker/signwriter, as I'd call it "The jack of all trades" trade. One day I'm wrapping a van in graphics, next, making 3D letters in stainless or aluminium, then up in scissor lift fitting signs, it's very varied work, that's why I like it.
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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May 28, 2017 11:49:20 GMT
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your work is awesome....viva la signwork!
that panel you just finished looks incredibly smooth....nice job!
Jp
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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May 28, 2017 13:17:19 GMT
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The Alfa sounds like a great project, have you designed the body & chassis yet & how will you produce your buck? The Cobra ticks all my boxes & I think it's a quite unique car to build these days, as the Ford engines & gearboxes are still available and parts supply is good, chassis is very agricultural & straight forward, suspension & running gear is available, so it's one the most iconic cars that can be built as a true replica in every detail, I'm not a kitcar person, so a replica it has to be. I've started chassis design. It's challenging to find all the proper relationships of of mechanical bits to human fit. More so because I'm determined to use a rear transaxle. I'll make a wooden buck for the body work once the mechanical bits are fitted to the chassis. Chassis build and mechanical work are no problem. I'll post a build thread when I'm farther along, in the meantime I will continue to learn metal shaping skills from guys like you and of course hours of practice and lots of scrap parts.
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1987 Alfa Milano/75 1979 Alfetta Mille Miglia 1976 Alfetta GT race car 1970 Lancia Fulvia 1.3 Rallye S 1968 Fiat 850 spider
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May 28, 2017 15:52:27 GMT
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Beautiful work. I am somewhat jealous of your ability to metal finish tin. This is the stage where my talent hits the brick wall: I have read thousands of lines of text about how to planish the weld line, I understand the theory of stretching the weld to compensate for the shrinkage, but have never had one bit of success when I try it, so I call it a day and move on with the filler. I will however, live vicariously through those that can do this stuff. The picture below is from a dogleg repair on the P1800 ES. Happy with the repair and it will be fine with a skim of filler. In a situation like this, there is no access to the back of the weld bead so as to be able to stretch the weld; curious how you would proceed since it is a common situation when doing panel repairs?
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Last Edit: May 28, 2017 16:03:53 GMT by bjornagn
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May 28, 2017 18:40:29 GMT
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In your case I doubt I would do it any differently, so unless you can get to the back, there ain't a lot you can do. However, there might be possibilities, if the joint was higher up where there might be an access hole inside, could you join it there?, this might mean 2 joints and removing a section, just re-weld back on. If you look at my MGB rear wing, I made this in 3 sections, why?, the 8" mid section was welded first, so I could metal finish it, cos I could get to it from left & right, if I made the panel in 2 pieces, this 8" section wouldn't have been able to metal finish, so what I'm saying, is plan your repairs to allow for metal finishing, if that's what you want to do. Being able to metal finish was the biggest leap forward in my metalshaping development, but relying on mig welding wasn't going to get me to the next level, imo. Tig & gas are what coachbuilders use, so I started to play with that more, mainly it's used because you use less filler metal or none at all when welding, making metal finishing easier. I was apprehensive to begin with, because of distortion, but the metal finishing allows you shape the panel back, so the joins are invisible. Metalfinishing requires removing the highs & lows caused by welding, but first you have to identify where they are, I use a dye on the panel, like a guide coat, this is engineers blue or Dichem, which I wipe on the panel. I then use a body file & gently rub it over the surface, this shows the high points. In this picture the dye is removed only on the high points, I assess there are less highs than lows, so I tap the highs down (hammer off dolly), I also check with a straight edge, where it rocks is high. Now I've knocked the highs down, the file rubs more dye off & I can see the panels has less low areas, so I raise them, with hammer on dolly Now the panel is nearly there, the uneveness in this panel is now 1 coat of paint, no filler Metal finishing takes time to learn, for me it's very rewarding, but some folks have better things to do with there time than tap metal, so it's not for everyone, that's ok.
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Last Edit: May 28, 2017 19:50:20 GMT by maxakarudy
Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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Sept 23, 2017 13:19:42 GMT
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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Sept 23, 2017 19:06:56 GMT
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Just a few pics of the development of the Cobra wing from flat sheet
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Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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Sept 23, 2017 19:53:06 GMT
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Hi Martin - Is the buck something you have managed to loan or did you have purchase it ? looks like its fibreglass - the buck that is - Chris
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Sept 23, 2017 19:53:22 GMT
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Hi Martin - Is the buck something you have managed to loan or did you have purchase it ? looks like its fibreglass - the buck that is - Chris
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Sept 23, 2017 20:09:17 GMT
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Chris, I bought an old bodyshell, not a great quality one, although it was moulded of an original car, that's probably why there are so many faults on it, the mouth is 1" wider on one side from the centre line, doors are totally wrong shape, cockpit too long, so will have a lot of work to sort out before I can move much further.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2017 20:11:06 GMT by maxakarudy
Cheers Martin
No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead of you
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