Peugeot 206 clutch job

Just found this, thought I'd paste it here in case someone else finds it useful; as well as being useful for me for reference!

Please comment if you think any of this is nonsense, or won't apply to an 04 206 1.4 SW!


I've just done a 99 206 1.1L. - here's how.
You need - 2 axle stands, at least 2 or 3 jacks, wood blocks,socket set, pry bar, hex - socket set, spanners, bowl for oil,drain plug spanner set.
also - New Clutch, New Transmission fluid.

Steps as follows - Jack up offside and remove wheel, undo front wheel arch screws and remove. Front up on axle stands on each side of body, loosen front suspension bolts, undo suspension strut bottom bolt & pry off ball joint, If you have a spring compresor use it or even ratchet straps work, or a jack and wood on the base of spring.
Position bowl under gearbox diff & pull whole assembly to remove driveshaft from gearbox.
Repeat on other side, but there are 2 retaining bolts on a mid bearing to undo.
From the top, remove battery, air cleaner and associated pipework ( one clip at air inlet), all plugs and wiring from the bell housing.
Pull off clutch cable from fork.
Remove battery tray.
Unbolt starter.
use snipenose pliers to pop off gear selector connectors near the bulkhead - not at the bellhousing end.
Check all is clear.
Place scissor jack and wood under engine sump, use another jack under gearbox.
loosen all cap head bolts around bellhousing that hold it to the engine - check very carefully that you havent missed one.
Remove crank sensor.
undo the gearbox mounting bolt, and remove the plate that it's on.
Ease gearbox off the engine and lower enough to get to the clutch. - A fair bit of adjustment is needed on both jacks to manouver things about - watch out for leaks from coolant hoses etc.
Unbolt clutch housing in 1/4 turn increments as it is under spring pressure.
Follow clutch fitting instructions. Make sure new plate is correct way round and Always replace the release bearing.
Clean area with a meths rag and clean splines - do not grease.
Check for oil leaks.
Ready to put it all back?
Bellhousing on, bolts tight.
Starter on, gearbox mounting plate and fixing on and torqued.
Clutch cable on.
Check operation of clutch at this point (you may have to adjust cable)
Driveshafts back in, and then suspension.
Refill transmission - (note quantities- don't overfill - under is better if you don't know)
Battery tray on with all electrics.
Air filter and battery on. (reset radio code)

Off stands. - check fluid levels - coolant etc.
Try out (adjust clutch cable)

Congratulate yourself you've saved over £300.

Also, 2 litres of gearbox oil from empty, you can fill from the top to avoid trying to side-fill it.

Not the nicest of jobs so far.. I've removed the bottom ball joints from the lower arms and taken the nearside driveshaft out. I've removed the intermediate bearing bolts and hammered the drive shaft out of the carrier. Only thing is, I pulled from the offside wheel arch and popped the two piece shaft in half... It's not come out the middle boot though. Is it goosed or does it just push back together? It's tricky as the other end is still attached to the hub...

I wish I'd removed the shafts completely now. I unbolyed the whole strut from the top to allow movement to squeeze the shaft back together. I can see from the clean section south of the boot that they were closer together originally, but when i spin the hub, both sections of the shaft spin so I guess it's ok?

I'm not sure what you mean about the bearing... I don't fully understand how the offset bolts held it in! I ended up removing one bolt entirely, and just the nut from the other bolt. I then hammered around the edge of it until it came out. What would you recommend?

I'm finishing for the night but going to get up early to tackle out tomorrow.

So far I've removed both driveshafts from the box...

they're line bored casings so you cant swap individual parts.

ma boxes are a bit of a faff to do and known for their diff issues in road cars and synchros in competition cars, flexing casings causing gear damage on higher power applications!