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I think the majority of leaks on mine are now the rear main. I "fixed" the cam cover a few years ago, but when I wanted to see if I could tighten the tappets down to cut the noise a little I found it wouldn't come off, so I've left it alone for now. I'd pop it out and swap the seal, but I've got quite a list of "while the engine is out" jobs that would turn it into quite a long session. On the cam cover I've pinched an idea from my i5 Audi engine, which I believe was also on later CF engines, which is to have some long washers to tighten the bolts through. On the i5 it has a strip along each side of the cover made of what seems to be ~3mm spring steel, and the bolts go through that. That's way too much work for a quick fix, so I made some washers that spread the load just a bit more. And of course, make sure the cover is flat to start with.
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Apr 19, 2017 13:23:54 GMT
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Good idea that!
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Apr 19, 2017 17:53:48 GMT
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Yay, always nice when it runs again. Instant fire as well. AND, no water leaks...
cos theres no water in it. panicked after 30 seconds so turned it off. Will fit coolings tomorrow.
Is it me, or does it not get any less nerve wracking doing cam timing and any less relieving when its all back together.
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Apr 20, 2017 10:41:23 GMT
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No, never does, even though I believe the 2.3 is a non-interference engine anyway.
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Apr 20, 2017 11:14:15 GMT
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I didnt check, probably is, but manual specifically mentions putting crank to 90° before taking apart so pistons are out the way of the valves when you put it back together. Cant remember if that was in the haynes book and therefore maybe generic advice, or in the factory book.
I didnt do thay anyway, I left crank at tdc and rotated cam to correct orientation before bolting cam box down.
Made new gaskets for oil pump and dizzy and refitted that before rocker cover went on as its easier to tell which is compression stroke by watching the cam than it is to stuff a finger down to the spark plug hole!
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Apr 20, 2017 12:11:45 GMT
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My Haynes Viva GT/Firenza book just says to rotate the crank 90 degrees "With 1599cc hc engines". In the bit about removing the cam belt it says basically the same - 1599 hc engine can cause valves to touch pistons, but this doesn't apply to 1759, 1975 or 2279 engines.
On a previous car I had a vernier camwheel but didn't realise it, and spent ages turning the engine over trying to start it with the cam miles out, without any damage to valves. Turned out it wasn't one with an adjustable centre like you'd picture a vernier wheel, it just had five key-ways at differing relationships to a tooth edge, so was adjustable to five points by removing and refitting the wheel on a different keyway, but four of them meant the timing mark was no use. A good job it's not an issue, really.
I recall someone telling me once that if the cambelt on a 2.3 goes "while at very high revs" there's a chance of them hitting, but I can't see why the speed would cause the valve to protrude any further than it normally would, unless the valve springs are weak. Still, don't rev mine that hard as I'm mainly interested in longevity, so it's not (hopefully) going to be an issue.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Apr 20, 2017 13:22:06 GMT
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conrods and or big end bolts can stretch at high revs, leaving the piston further up the bore than it should be, quite a few race engine suffer when revved higher than normal, or at least they used to back in the day, not so sure it's such a big issue nowdays, better engeneered and all that ?
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R.I.P photobucket
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Apr 20, 2017 18:42:14 GMT
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Yep had a rotax two stroke engine do that at high rpm with the wrong head gasket fitted, it was enough for the piston to just touch the head..
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Good point, I find it hard to get my head around stuff like that stretching, but then at high revs and high temperature in a race setting maybe I can see it. I'm only using the car on the road so I probably don't have to worry about it.
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