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Jp - Link below www.myalloys.co.uk/Your spraygun kit belongs in a museum [/quote] These guys do great work, a friend spent a few years there and spoke very highly of them -Very rare for someone in the motor trade to say nice things about a previous employer! Are you based in Basingstoke area GN?[/quote] Yep - Small village mid point between Basingstoke / Newbury / Reading
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Having repaired the rear end of the sills on my Rover 216 Coupe I now have to tidy up the paint using rattle cans, the colour is Tahiti Blue pearl Rover code JRJ, Rimmers list it as no longer available, any suggestions where I can get it & what the colour match would be like?
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Having repaired the rear end of the sills on my Rover 216 Coupe I now have to tidy up the paint using rattle cans, the colour is Tahiti Blue pearl Rover code JRJ, Rimmers list it as no longer available, any suggestions where I can get it & what the colour match would be like? I can advise that this online supplier will help you www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=155_156Has to the colour match let me just reach for the crystal ball - providing that the paint is mixed correctly - that its the correct colour variant - applied skilfully - blended in correctly - allowed to cure correctly prior to being clear coated then you will be fine - and if not you gain all the experience of doing it again - which is exactly what happens in every bodyshop up & down the country - with metallic & pearlescent finishes its a matter of applying the paint and finding out I'm afraid
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Last Edit: Jun 3, 2020 20:35:45 GMT by Deleted
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Sooo, over the weekend, I picked up a pair of new (well, second hand) bumpers for the '38.
They are, well, bumper coloured apart from the coding on the front panel where the spots sit, and those little "ears" round the side of the rears that are just in front of the back wheels.
Inexplicably, the sellers car isn't Epsom Green though, it's some sort of dark grey metallic.
The rears aren't a problem as the ears clip out and my existing ones, which are mint, can just be swapped over.
At the front, it'll need a repaint.
The existing paint is rough. No, I don't mean shabby, I mean nail file rough. So the plan(?) is as follows.
Flat off the existing paint, prime, repaint.
Assuming that I can ever find anyone who'll mix me an aerosol of 961, I have the following questions:
I've no idea if the existing is one or two pack. I'd guess one, but who knows? Will I be okay just flatting, priming over, flatting again, then painting?
On painting, given that we're normally at around 30 degrees ambient, how long would you reckon between coats of paint and then lacquer?
Painting's never been my forte, although I've learned a lot from here, but I'd like to get it looking something like if possible.
Also, please bear in mind that from my research, we don't have, easily available, the plethora of refinishing products that you guys have.
I thank yew!
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Jun 15, 2020 12:00:48 GMT
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You 'probably' will be ok priming & painting, but only trying it will tell. Depends if its been painted in a Phillipines 'special' paint or not.
Prime them, see if they react or not. If all ok then do a small patch of topcoat on the bottom part (so if it reacts it will mess up a bit you don't look at).
If all good then spray away.
If you are not in a hurry I would say do several light base coats (less likely to react if light coats) with a good 15 minutes between coats - you can leave it far longer if you wish though.
Again, as you are not in a rush, I would do the clearcoat the next day to avoid any potential mishaps. Clearcoat, again several light coats. I'd say to be safe do a couple of coats around 15 mins apart, then leave a few hours and do a couple more. If you want to build up the clear then just repeat the next day.
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You 'probably' will be ok priming & painting, but only trying it will tell. Depends if its been painted in a Phillipines 'special' paint or not. Prime them, see if they react or not. If all ok then do a small patch of topcoat on the bottom part (so if it reacts it will mess up a bit you don't look at). If all good then spray away. If you are not in a hurry I would say do several light base coats (less likely to react if light coats) with a good 15 minutes between coats - you can leave it far longer if you wish though. Again, as you are not in a rush, I would do the clearcoat the next day to avoid any potential mishaps. Clearcoat, again several light coats. I'd say to be safe do a couple of coats around 15 mins apart, then leave a few hours and do a couple more. If you want to build up the clear then just repeat the next day. That's just what I was looking for, thanks! It's the existing paint that concerns me. Apparently the bumper is fairly new and, I'm guessing, came unpainted (at least the Rimmer ones do) so who knows what they slapped on. As I say, you could do your nails on it! Still, I suppose if the worse comes to the worst, I can always strip it off and start again. I'd just rather not, if at all possible. Now, just got to find someone who can mix the paint... Thanks again.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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How can I avoid filler sinkage after painting?
I painted some car doors a few months ago. They were pretty much perfect shape-wise after painting, but in the following 2 months the filler has started to slightly sink in a few spots. I'm not talking about where you see a defined edge of filler or anything like that, just a few little ripples here and there that weren't present before. Mostly noticeable when the sun is setting.
I'm about to paint the rest of the car and there are some spots where filler sinkage will be very noticeable (roof for example).
I'm using 1k acrylic paint, clear over base.
My process for the doors was:
Bare metal Repair Clean and key Fill (Mipa P99) Etch prime (BH Etchweld) High build (BH Highbild) Basecoat Clear
Do I need something like glaze over the filler? If so, which one?
Thanks.
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How can I avoid filler sinkage after painting? I painted some car doors a few months ago. They were pretty much perfect shape-wise after painting, but in the following 2 months the filler has started to slightly sink in a few spots. I'm not talking about where you see a defined edge of filler or anything like that, just a few little ripples here and there that weren't present before. Mostly noticeable when the sun is setting. I'm about to paint the rest of the car and there are some spots where filler sinkage will be very noticeable (roof for example). I'm using 1k acrylic paint, clear over base. My process for the doors was: Bare metal Repair Clean and key Fill (Mipa P99) Etch prime (BH Etchweld) High build (BH Highbild) Basecoat Clear Do I need something like glaze over the filler? If so, which one? Thanks. I would recommend a glaze which will help - I use this: www.u-pol.com/us/en/product/dolphin/fillers-putties/putties-and-glazes-2/dolphin-glaze#.Xv2Zxm5FxPYI would also research your primer - some high build primers are not that compatible with etching primers (even from the same manufacture) - other things to consider is allowing your primer & colour base coat to vent for longer periods - literally just leave them for a few days to allow all vapours / solvents to dissipate before applying the next coat
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Thanks Chris. I will buy some of that glaze. Do I need to try and keep the entire filled areas covered with a thin layer of glaze? Without sanding through it if that makes sense?
I forgot to mention that I'm thinking of replacing the etch primer with epoxy primer, mainly for its weatherproofing properties as the car lives under a canopy, and I can't prep it fast enough to guarantee it's 100% dry all the time.
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It might be the filler.
Some fillers never sink, some are known for it.
PS,
Definitely use epoxy primer (lechlar is very good) as it's astonishing stuff.
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I'd second that, regularly had problems with sinkage and crazing when using older primers, never had an issue with epoxy, only thing I do find is you need to leave it a couple of days to fully cure unless its very warm.
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Chris - When we spoke about Kent panel bond recently, you spoke about sealed rivets (which I have). 1. How far apart should I put in the rivets. Your recent post with the Jowett panel show them about 2" apart. 2. Do they add any real strength to the join (I assume that they could act like an inferior spot weld)...or 3. Are they purely to hold the panel together during the curing process.
I am actually having trouble trial fitting everything before bonding/riveting, so I am temporarily holding everything together with self tappers until I get the '3D' correct, at which point I will bond and use the self tapper holes for the rivets. Yes, I know, true amateur!!
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2020 19:35:57 GMT by Badwolf
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Chris - When we spoke about Kent panel bond recently, you spoke about sealed rivets (which I have). 1. How far apart should I put in the rivets. Your recent post with the Jowett panel show them about 2" apart. 2. Do they add any real strength to the join (I assume that they could act like an inferior spot weld)...or 3. Are they purely to hold the panel together during the curing process. I am actually having trouble trial fitting everything before bonding/riveting, so I am temporarily holding everything together with self tappers until I get the '3D' correct, at which point I will bond and use the self tapper holes for the rivets. Yes, I know, true amateur!! 1 - All depends really on that panel join I have them at 50 / 60 mm centres - down the side of the B post they are more like 80 - 100mm centres (has per factory) 2 & 3 - Both Nothing wrong with your method re self tappers I had to do the same in some areas for that repair panel on the Jupiter
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Thanks - Much appreciated.
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Chris - Kent 2K Panel Bond - I my preparation for this job, I notice that one of the smaller panels to be bonded to, has some pitted rust. 1. Should I just grind this back and bond, even though it will thin the metal and leave some rust in the pits, or, 2. Should I treat this with Hydrate 80 before bonding and should I rub this back to clear the surface back to bare metal?
Thanks in advance BW
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Chris - Kent 2K Panel Bond - I my preparation for this job, I notice that one of the smaller panels to be bonded to, has some pitted rust. 1. Should I just grind this back and bond, even though it will thin the metal and leave some rust in the pits, or, 2. Should I treat this with Hydrate 80 before bonding and should I rub this back to clear the surface back to bare metal? Thanks in advance BW 2 - But no need to take it back to bare metal - applied correctly Hydrate 80 is very difficult to remove and the panel bond will adhere to prepared paint surfaces - all I would do is lightly key the Hydrate once it has cured
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Last Edit: Jul 3, 2020 19:52:55 GMT by Deleted
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Chris, can I ask a sanding question.
I'm going to be doing some paintwork on a Morris Minor as the paint is very chalky and cannot be revived (previously tried) so will be needing to sand stuff back in preparation.
Am I best doing this by hand rather than using a cheap sander?
I don't want to be wasting money on a rubbish sander for what is likely to be seldom used piece of kit and I can't justify the expense of a decent one with the lack of use it will get.
More than happy to get something secondhand that I can nurse along that will do the job in an amateur setting.
I appreciate that you get what you pay for, recently purchased a new R-Tech Mig that is just amazing in comparison to the previous Clarke one.
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Chris, can I ask a sanding question. I'm going to be doing some paintwork on a Morris Minor as the paint is very chalky and cannot be revived (previously tried) so will be needing to sand stuff back in preparation. Am I best doing this by hand rather than using a cheap sander? I don't want to be wasting money on a rubbish sander for what is likely to be seldom used piece of kit and I can't justify the expense of a decent one with the lack of use it will get. More than happy to get something secondhand that I can nurse along that will do the job in an amateur setting. I appreciate that you get what you pay for, recently purchased a new R-Tech Mig that is just amazing in comparison to the previous Clarke one. Really depends upon how much sanding you have to do - by hand is fine but if you have several layers of paint / primer to get through or a complete vehicle to prepare it can get very tedious - hence if you can find a orbital machine sander of some type it would be helpful - problem with the bottom end / DIY market machines is that although the machines are cheap the abrasives for them is quite often unique to the brand / model and can be somewhat expensive - so a little research first in identifying something that will do the job for you for which the abrasives are fairly priced - then again if you just have a few panels to prep a machine would barely be worth the expense
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2020 11:34:33 GMT by Deleted
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I bought a Makita BO6030 (Amazon £120 or less) last year which takes Mirka abrasive discs (cheaper disks
can also be found). It will also hook up to a standard vacuum cleaner (Henry/Aquavac etc) using a tube which also fits the Mirka hand sander (again cheaper independent units can be found to keep costs down), using a set of cheapish adapters. Works well, keeps down the dust but mask and ear defenders recommended. Chris will amplify this idea, I'm sure.
Link to hand sander and tube....
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2020 15:08:18 GMT by Badwolf
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