matty2300
South East
Red ones go faster!
Posts: 157
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Dec 19, 2019 17:07:43 GMT
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Its silicone free and therefore is a far more durable & readily paintable product - MS sealer is polymer based "polymer" is a descriptive term that just means long repeating chain molecule. To say that something is "polymer based" is a bit of a misnomer, polymers are all based on something - yes there are plenty of polymers that are not silicone based (Nylon, polystyrene or even your own DNA for example) but just because something is described as a polymer does not mean that it does not contain or is not based on silicone. MS polymer when regarding sealants and adhesives does stand for "modified silicone polymer"
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2019 17:40:54 GMT by matty2300
2002 Saab 93 - Daily 1972 Vauxhall Firenza Sport SL - in storage 1978 Vauxhall Magnum - PROJECT 1993 Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0 GLS - DEAD 1994 Vauxhall Astra 1.4 LS - DEAD 1999 Saab 93 2.0 SE - DEAD 1999 Mercedes W202/C200 - DEAD
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,113
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Body & Paint Threadglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Dec 27, 2019 22:48:21 GMT
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I actually have a proper question to ask, much to my surprise, as I’m no bodywork man.
I’m in the process of fettling a replacement roof panel for my Land-Rover. It’s apparent that several of the rivets securing the aluminium section to the galvanised steel perimeter frame have let go, and there’s ample indication that a previous owner has attempted a cure with a couple of tubes of bath sealant. I’ve got all the tooling and the correct rivets to split the parts, clean the joint and re-rivet them back together. My question would be what to use between them to ensure a weathertight seal? Something like TigerSeal? I’m not going to need to be able to paint the join, it’ll be completely hidden once the roof is refitted unless a 7’ tall man is walking past.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 27, 2019 23:20:36 GMT
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I actually have a proper question to ask, much to my surprise, as I’m no bodywork man. I’m in the process of fettling a replacement roof panel for my Land-Rover. It’s apparent that several of the rivets securing the aluminium section to the galvanised steel perimeter frame have let go, and there’s ample indication that a previous owner has attempted a cure with a couple of tubes of bath sealant. I’ve got all the tooling and the correct rivets to split the parts, clean the joint and re-rivet them back together. My question would be what to use between them to ensure a weathertight seal? Something like TigerSeal? I’m not going to need to be able to paint the join, it’ll be completely hidden once the roof is refitted unless a 7’ tall man is walking past. Glen - Personally I would use a proper body caulking that is flexible / moves with the panels and that can should the need ever arise be separated - using a PU sealant will make this hard work - 3M do a high quality one 08568 which I use all the time - a pack maybe more than what you currently need but you have a large Austin shaped object that this will be very useful upon (body panels / floor panels / frames etc) - the body caulking can be easily shaped / reduced & cleanly tooled - link to a E Bay seller below but you may find it a little cheaper at a local automotive refinishing factors whom stock 3M products www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-08568-Body-Caulking-Strips-6MMx300MM-Pack-60/113883903858?hash=item1a84027772:g:ZS8AAOSwanhdeAdmIf you only need a few strips to do the job and don't want to invest in a full pack PM me your address and I will put a couple in the post to you - Chris
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Last Edit: Dec 27, 2019 23:23:00 GMT by Deleted
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,113
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Body & Paint Threadglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Dec 27, 2019 23:35:25 GMT
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Brilliant Chris, that looks just the job. I shall order a pack as I’m sure you’re right and I’ll find a use for the rest of it on/around the Austin and the Land-Rover. 👍👍👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 30, 2019 21:37:12 GMT
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Flatting cellulose primer filler, should this be done wet or dry? I am concerned about it absorbing water & causing micro blistering later.
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Dec 30, 2019 22:25:49 GMT
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I've always done it dry for the reasons you state, I believe pro's use the paint oven to dry them out after flatting.
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Dec 31, 2019 14:52:35 GMT
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In my opinion no water should go near the bodywork until a gloss coat is applied to seal it.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:01:37 GMT
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Nothing wrong with wet flatting providing you dry has you go - but proper drying - use a towel and a air line blow gun to chase the water out / dry the panel off has you complete the panel a small heater / oil filled radiator close by helps - whilst dry flatting is ok you will find it very hard work to achieve anything like the correct surface for laying on paint without imperfections in the primer showing through - many bodyshops use a combination of dry & wet flatting dependant upon the type of paint being applied - providing you are methodical with the drying process you should not have any issues - I still wet flat in my workshop on occasions and don't have problems with any adverse reactions when completed to point that I also have no issues with guaranteeing the work either
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Last Edit: Dec 31, 2019 21:06:26 GMT by Deleted
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Heard of them but never used them - it looks like they are catering purely for the older / historic market and therefore appear to be using premium pricing - I would compare what they offer with one of the major online retailers (2 of them listed below) of such products first to see how competitive they are www.jawel.co.uk/shop.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/
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Heard of them but never used them - it looks like they are catering purely for the older / historic market and therefore appear to be using premium pricing - I would compare what they offer with one of the major online retailers (2 of them listed below) of such products first to see how competitive they are www.jawel.co.uk/shop.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/Prices appear similar, interesting that Jawel offer a non iso 2k, I expect that there is a down side? ?
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Heard of them but never used them - it looks like they are catering purely for the older / historic market and therefore appear to be using premium pricing - I would compare what they offer with one of the major online retailers (2 of them listed below) of such products first to see how competitive they are www.jawel.co.uk/shop.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/Prices appear similar, interesting that Jawel offer a non iso 2k, I expect that there is a down side? ? Its nothing new most 2 pack paints are now isocyanate free but its still quite harmful to use unless you are wearing the correct personal protective equipment along with the correct facilities i.e a positive feed mask & suitable air extraction of the spraying area
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Its nothing new most 2 pack paints are now isocyanate free but its still quite harmful to use unless you are wearing the correct personal protective equipment along with the correct facilities i.e a positive feed mask & suitable air extraction of the spraying area Worse than Cellulose? I ask 'cos I'd like to paint mine (too stingy and I want the experience) but it's going to have to be done under a tent 'cos it won't go in the garage. Celly is looking like the best fit for my needs at the moment. I say that, safe in the knowledge that I don't know what I'm talking about.
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James - Yes a lot worse that cellulose - which you will be fine with - and when the time comes I can talk you through the process should you wish
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Last Edit: Jan 5, 2020 19:13:05 GMT by Deleted
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James - Yes a lot worse that cellulose - which you will be fine with - and when the time comes I can talk you through the process should you wish Thanks Chris, I'll definitely take you up on that. Don't hold your breath though!
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James - Yes a lot worse that cellulose - which you will be fine with - and when the time comes I can talk you through the process should you wish Thanks Chris, I'll definitely take you up on that. Don't hold your breath though! James - I wont - because if I did hold my breath I would go blue and quite possibly fall over (just stating the obvious so don't get all grumpy on me)
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Hard to drink Gin whilst holding you breath too. Y'know just sayin'
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interesting that Jawel offer a non iso 2k, I expect that there is a down side? ? I have read - elsewhere and a few years ago - that the biggest problem with non-ISO 2K is that it never properly hardens. I was interested because I thought it might give a better finish than celly on my project, so that puts it at least three years ago. Chap (on MIG Welding forum, I think) was trying it out and left it for months, and it failed the fingernail test after all that time. Of course, it might be better now.
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Jan 15, 2020 17:16:46 GMT
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I'm currently flatting hi-build. I've gone through in a few places (to the epoxy), not unexpected as the roof was a mare. Ok to spot prime and re-flat in those areas? I don't need any build up just the colour to be the same. Thanks.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Jan 15, 2020 22:45:24 GMT
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yes.
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