fad
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You've not restricted flow when you put the boss in for the oil temp sensor? Behind the sump plate is a strainer and the oil pickup tube with a baffle on it What oil did you refill with after the oil change? John Good point. Tp sensor... either buy the correct sump plug or T off at your pressure sender. Both are very cheap options... though hood ingenuity. |
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jordy
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Thanks for the info guys So the problem started when I topped up the oil , assumed it would go away when I did an oil change but didn't . Also the fact it goes off at high revs is also of interest . After talking to my mate he said pretty much the same thing , suspected blockage in the oil sump pipe - I planned on flushing out all the dirt with some new oil and then doing a full oil change with better oil and changing the filter etc . Since I just dumped the old oil without changing the filter it seems like it's disturbed a load of junk in the engine blocking the oil flow . I've got a new sender coming tomorrow to see if it's the sender but I'll be taking the sump off for a proper clean at the weekend . There has been absolutely no engine change , leaks , smoke sound or loss of power so I'm guessing it's not a dieing engine and is a problem like a blocked oil flow or bad sensor .? It has sae classic motor oil in it whatever that is lol I replaced it with 20w50 ( as recommended in many bug forums ) as for the sensor for the oil temp gauge - this doesn't leak oil so I doubt has caused any problems as it happened before I did this anyway I know I could buy one from machine 7 but I like the satisfaction of making something myself plus I can always buy one if it's no good  I'll keep updating - please keep the tips comming ! And thanks for the comments so far |
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The oil filter is just a gauze under the sump plate, so yeah it could quite easily get clogged with lumps. When we stripped our engine down there were a load of lumps and slimy bits trapped in the nooks.
Sounds like the oil is right, I vaguely remember hearing that using the wrong grade caused problems, being aircooled it runs hot so needs higher numbers on the oil grade, I believe.
If the problem was there before the boss was welded in, it probably isn't relevant then
Good luck, let us know what you find!
John
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fad
Posted a lot
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You need noce thick cheapo mineral oil. You are using the right stuff...
I didnt realise you had the issue before you tinkered. Blocked oilway, weak oil pump or bad sensor, in order of most likely to least likely.
Now without wanting to patronise... your oil level is correct, right?
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jordy
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Posts: 234
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All the signs kind of point to a blocked oil pipe in the sump if it's not a bad sender - I'm thinking when I topped it up it stirred up a load of gunk in the bottom of the block and that has bunged up the filter or the oil pipe ? Or now the oil is thinner than the antient dirty oil the pump isn't working as well - if the pump was worn it would be ok pumping custard around the engine but thinner oil it would struggle perhaps ? I should get the new sender today - I will post my findings ! fad - I topped the oil up to 3/4 full to see if it made any difference ( I didn't want to over fill it )
Other than s single red light on the dash -what are the symptoms to look for - for lost oil pressure ? I checked the dip stick after I drove it 9 miles the other day and it was fine ( I have heard these get very hot if the engine is overheating )
I was hoping to go to a car meet tonight ( first this year ) unless it's the sender I will have to leave the beetle at home for now !
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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The symptoms of poor oil pressure are: Light on the dash Gets very hot very fast But usually before it gets very hot it grinds to a halt and never turns again. don't drive it till you KNOW. |
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The way your bug is, without a rear valance, it wouldn't be too long a job to drop the crank pulley off, remove the tinware across the rear (2 pieces) and drop the cover on the oil pump.... you could then inspect the pump gears and look for damage and wear (without doing anything too technical)
As Fad said though, they are of and simple engines that rely on the oil to do it's job and help cool as well. So I'd not want to risk knackering it until I'd bottomed out the fault.
I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's the pressure switch then
John
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jordy
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Thanks again for all the info guys Regardless if it's the sender or not I will be doing a proper oil change and renewing the filter for piece of mind - the diagram is really helpful thanks. All I did with the oil was drain out the oil and put new in - I didn't remove any of the bottom plate - just the sump plug. Idea was to use this oil as a flush then do a proper change after 20 miles or so. The sender in the sump plug doesn't protude out of the top of the thread on the sump plug - it's about 5mm below the top . When I fitted this I ran the car for 10 mins to see if it was wired ok - but nothing happened . I touched the sensor and the best plate around the sump and it was only warm and must have been below the min temp for the gauge to work. I'll tackle the problem going through all the steps you guys have mentioned - it sounds like it will cure it one way or another , or the engine is on its way out My money is on a load of gunk blocking the pickup pipe - I'll post later when I change the sender Yes |
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jordy
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Lucky break - WAS the dodgy sender Got all the oil change stuff ordered for the weekend - so all the advice will be implemented Oil pressure light functioning great now ! |
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whew!....I put a oil pressure gauge in my wifes 06 passat just for peace of mind.....its mechanical, bosch, I think, and works great.
glad you got this sorted out....now you can forge ahead
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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You lucky, lucky barstuard  I was ready with a "right, first you need to check end float again, whip the heads off and make sure they aren't burnt up, now you need to split the case..." type instructive response :lol: |
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jordy
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Lol yes very lucky !
I agree it's time to work on the engine - I'm actually thinking of pulling the whole block out to give it a full going over - I'll have to do my research first !
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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No need to pull the block, unless you are looking at clutch or flywheel seal.
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Latest progress ! Since the oil pressure sensor panic Another oil change - with a new mesh filter thing , just running some standard 20w 50 , after 50 miles or so I'll dump it for some more expensive oil . I've been driving it this weekend and it has been perfect - oil pressure light goes out immediately , oil temp goes up to 60 sitting in traffic then back down to 40 when driving ( it's only a cheap oil temp gauge so I doubt is that accurate , but at least it's showing me something ) Last time I drove it I got 24 miles to 12 litres .... so I looked at the air / fuel mix , read up on the adjustment - 2.5 turns out from tightened up - so the reason I could smell fuel and getting the same mpg as a hummer was because my air fuel was set at about 7 turns out . I put the same in - 12 litres ( half a tankish ) I've done 25 miles and still have 1/3 of a tank left - whereas I'd be empty before so that's great ! Another thing I have tackled is the back light on the speedo - mine wasn't working due to a faulty holder and when it was it was rubbish so I installed some leds - lights it up now but shows the clock is wonky in the gauge it's self |D but I can live with that . Also I got some aluminium trim to tidy up the edge left from where the runners used to be - I think it looks ok although I prefer without but it did look a bit unfinished . I'm going to drive it to work this week and see how it does |
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jordy
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jordy
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Posts: 234
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I haven't decided what gauge to put in the other side yet hence why there is nothing lit up ! I'm not really a fan of the go faster looking gauges but these are functional and you can actually see them at night , I had smiths gauges in my hb viva and imp but you couldn't see then at night - so I'm pretty pleased with how clear these are . I also but a sun strip on - not really sure about it |
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Your oil... don't bother with expensive stuff. You get no benefit in a stock motor. Dirty cheap nasty heavy mineral oil is what these engines need. Looking good though. For where the running boards were I deleted mine with door and rear quarter extensions... but have you thought about baja or buggy sidebars? Did you follow full procedure for setting the idle screw? 2 and a half turns out is only the base setting, you need to tune from there. That temp sensor must be out you should be double that at least at operating temp. Good to see progress though!  |
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2017 18:07:39 GMT by fad
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/\ as above, if you want to spend more on oil, I'd. Hangar the cheap stuff more often! You don't need detergent or stuff in the oil so cheap and nasty is best! Good work! |
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jordy
Part of things
Posts: 234
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Yes I followed the idle mix instructions perfectly - when I have the dough I'm taking it to a bug specialist to get them to tune it all up , I'd rather just let the experts do it as I don't tend to have much luck with this bug lol I didn't look into the side skirt things for the baja - even so everything standard I've bought for this beetle .... hasn't fir even the speedo cable was too short - I think the car was made from left over bit int the factory from this and that and has continued its life as a hodgepodge I quite like doing things custom anyway From now on I'm just getting it nice and tidy and complete and a respray - at the end of the car show season I'm thinking of selling it for my next project . It's a great car but i want a hb viva again - regret selling mine , I want to totally gut one and put all Modern running gear in it - so I have a classic that performs and is reliable , I could have done 3 with the amount of work I put into this bug Oh it has a stereo now too !! I have 2 more speakers to add when I replace the door cards for aluminium sheet |
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I'll keep updating - please keep the tips comming ! And thanks for the comments so far 
