You havent wasted it at all. It comes down to how you are going to run your inlet piping. The volvo inlet manifold put it on the left hand side which some people find a bit more challenging. Both will work fine
Ok, yeah perhaps wasted is the wrong word. I do now have 2 inlet manifolds though!
One more thing, what aux belt set-up are you going with? I'm thinking I will have to go the AJA route , which is a bit of a shame as it was a bit slippy and noisy before but the setup from the Volvo wont fit.
Again,some people have used the Volvo setup for auxiliaries.
I'm going to use the setup from the AAB that I had. It simple (only 2 brackets) and fairly compact. The upper bracket houses the tensioner.
The Volvo alternator is pretty much the same as the one I removed from the AAB. Both 150amps. Both same mounting bolt pattern. The pulley wheel will need swapping over. Interestingly, the Volvo alternator has two battery outputs. Handy for charging a leisure battery if I fit one.
Thats well handy, I will have to check mine although I already have my leisure battery wired to the battery.
I imagine the volvo setup is very tricky , I am going AJA, which I think is very similar to AAB. I did hear AAB was a v-belt though? I think my housing has elongated , where the walking stick goes through, which is causing at least some of my chirping I had. Its over 200 quid for a new one so looks like ill be managing without!!
I'm sure mine was an AAB and its definately not v'belt pulleys on anything.
If the hole for the hockey stick has elongated or worn, it might be cheaper to drill it out and fit a nylon or brass bush.
Theres usually loads of 2.4s being broken so you should get a used bracket cheap enough.
Bought my timing belt kit today. Usually £150 everywhere (two belts and 3 pulleys) Figured Id take a chance on Euro Car parts. Reduced to £120 (ACV engine kit) Euros online discount code brought it down to £78...lol.
Its a decent make so I'll take a chance.
Need to make another tool now to hold the cam sprocket while it is tightened to 150nm. I have a tool but the two pins are only about 8mm diameter and the holes are 25mm diameter. The tool keeps slipping out as the pins only go in about 5mm.
Good idea on the bracket, ill strip it down and have a look. AJA is difficult to tell apart from the AAB, especially when your asking people on forums, most of which are guessing anyway! I think they are basically the same.
I have taken the decision to not change the fuel pump belt, but I am going to change the cambelt etc. Now...., I know your thinking (half a job) but I have had experience of setting up those belts on a previous Volvo I had with the same engine......, very difficult to get them spot on and if they are anything but spot on, they don't run. I don't want to get this engine in , for it not to start , and then be thinking , what if the pump timing is out? One less thing to worry about. I will change it eventually, its my backwards logic.!!
So today I finally got round to fitting the timing belt. Bit of a milestone for me as its the thing thats been holding up progress.
As usual, with most of my jobs, the first thing to do was make a tool to do the job.
I have a tool for holding cam sprockets in place. Its two small pins that fit in the holes and should prevent the sprocket turning. Doesnt work with the volvo. The holes in the sprocket are 29mm. The pins are 10mm diameter. The push in about 5mm so just cam out when you put pressure on them.
The solution -
I really do love making tools that work perfectly🖒
So belt and tensioner on and crank bolt done up. 160nm no problem. The further 180 degrees........struggle.
Its on and it wont be dropping off.
I took the decision to reuse the vibration damper pulley. They are over £100 and this one shows no signs of any damage or seperation. Time will tell and I'm prepared to take a chance on it.
That Alternator looks great , yours is going to look way better than mine!!!
I am actually at the turning the key stage with mine, do you have any wiring diagrams or any links to? I could do with a pin out for the volvo ecu , or anything really. I have it cranking but no fire yet!
Fuel pump and injector lines painted and back on -
I have a few wiring diagrams but they are in Haynes manual and a few other books. I'll dig out what I can. They seem pretty straight forward. The main diagrams you will need will be for the ECU and fusebox.
This is the best link for fuseboxes. Covers most vws
I'm not running the Volvo ecu mate sorry. I do have a pinout diagram for the Volvo ECU and list of whats what. I'll dig it out. It might not scan very well. Your best bet is to find a local garage who have 'Autodata'. Thats where my pinout diagram came from. Only cost me a fiver. Not bad considering autodata costs about a grand to subscibe to.
Be warned, when you get pinout diagram for the Volvo Ecu it comes with the component sheet. Nothing is in alphabetical order so its a nightmare to find things quickly. I spent a few hrs redoing the list in order for my sanity.....
Just checked all my stash of disgrams and am sorry but I ditched the volvo stuff.
Put an appeal on here, I know a lot of people on here have autodata and will knock you off a printout.
Just a word of warning, if youre going to run the Volvo ecu. I know the Volvo software is very hard to get hold of and difficult to use. VAGCOM is everywhere and most garages and tuners know how to use it.
That was my main reason for ditching the Volvo ecu. That and the fact that if I screw the vw ECU up, the breakers yards are full of VW ECUs that can be bought cheaply and reprogrammed.
I do actually have an autodata subscription , we have one through work. There is some really good info, and there is a pinnout for the late classic shape tdi , but not for the early newer shape v70 tdi (pre common rail)
Volvo only made that shape v70 with the old tdi engine for a couple of years, this seems to be where the hole is in the tech data. I cant imagine the ecu on the late shape classic is massively different ....but...its the immobilizer part that is different, and I'm sure this is whats holding me up. I think I will use the older diagram for reference.
I can see why you have gone VW. I have sort of commited to the volvo route, for now. If i wanted to revert, I'm guessing I could just get an unlocked ACV ECU, and I would need at least some of the loom as well.
Is the vw ecu mapped to running 102bhp though? As opposed to 140 bhp?
It seems this volvo ECU is also not very easy to delete the immobilizer either.....
Ok, well I had a serious push at trying to get it running tonight, and the frustrating thing is I feel I am so close!!
But , its not going so I think I may have to go down the vw route. Do they re-map the ecu,s through the DLC? Or can hey go through the ECU itself?
If I bought an vw ecu , I am guessing I would need a engine loom as well? As I am sure the plugs are different from vw to volvo. Would the dlc connector come as part of he wiring loom?
Sorry for all of the questions!!
If you need any data from Autodata then give me a shout , btw.
I think the ECU can be remapped off the van for a base map but will need doing via the obd port. Yes you will need the loom from a 2.5tdi. Mine cost me £60. You will also need the pedal and wiring for the pedals (extra brake switch and clutch switch).
I cant remember if you were going from 2.4 or 2.5tdi sorry.
Mine also has the mechanical driven non-rev counter clocks. So I'm changing them too.