The example engine you have shown above is let down by the brake servo. Completely standard as the lid of the reservoir is not level and it's spectacularly easy to spill brake fluid if you are using an eazi bleed to do the brakes.
Don't forget to use thread lock on the engine mount bolts into the block, they can come undone. There are a fair few 1.9 TDi conversions that have suffered from this issue, myself included.
Thanks. Yeah I was wondering about thread lock. Not found any bolts with it on yet but for the mount it seems logical.
I'm going to be replacing all the bolts where possible with high tensile allen headed ones from work ( don't tell them)
Struggling at the moment with one bloody nut holding the exhaust manifold on. Just can not get anything on to it. It sits right behind the turbo flange. Might be able to get it once turbo is removed but the turbo nuts also seem to be impossible to get onto.
Reckon I might need some sort of weird bent/crowsfoot spanner or socket.
So I finally bought a short 3/8 drive 12mm socket (all mine are deep sockets) and removed the exhaust manifold vomplete with turbo.
Back of block looking bare now. Just to strip front off now.
Back of engine stripped today. Going to take fuel pump off tomorrow. Bit weary about setting TDC. can set the pump and camshaft to TDC as the marks are all there. The crank shaft however, is set by marks on the flywheel. Mine doesnt have a flywheel... I'm hoping, as it was running perfectly, that if i turn it over til the camshaft is TDC then the crank will be in the right place.
I thought everything was going too well with the rest of the van. Went to open the sliding door and...nothing. interior and external handle not working. Bums So I very very carefully pried off the pristine caravelle sliding door card (my was puckering) and found that the long connecting rod had come loose at the mechanism end. Then followed many hours of working out how to release the catch that was buried behind 12 inches of steel with only a 1 inch access hole. After contorting my body into a rediculous position, I was just able to see the silver lever. I quickly fabbed up the following tool -
And was able to pop the catch and open the door.😉
This is the culprit-
The little red clip that holds the rod in place has broken. I tried "plastic welding" a repair with a doldering iron but no joy. Ive rigged up a cable pull in place for now until i can get a plastic clip
Its all been about stripping this engine and getting it prepoed for paint.
The block has been stripped of all ancilliaries but head left on -
This required a couple of homemade tools. The first is a large 'spanner' gor holding the crank still while you release the dtupidly tight centre bolt. This VW is £95 but VW wont sell you one. A guy on facebook was kind enough to lend me his so I got a mate at work to machine me a copy of the end. My dad welded the handle on.
I think mine is better than the VW tool and saved me £95.
Then fabbed a plate for setting the camshaft at tdc.
Another £20 saved.
So next oil pump was stripped and cleaned in the parts washer at work
The 6 original screws were phillips headed countersunk but they rounded out on removal. Replaced all 6 with allen headed countersunk bolts.
So now it was time to strip the paint off the block. The originsl paint had bubbled in places due to surface rust. I bought paint stripper from screwfix but it was absolutely useless. Went to my local auto paint seller snf got this
Much better!!! Still took three coats and lots of wire brushing but eventually block is stripped. Gave it a good coat of Kurust ready for painting
I've somehow managed to miss this up til now. When the 2.5tdi in my Audi died again, I sourced a V70 motor. Even harder to fit as the Audi is north-south and the Volvo is east-west orientation! Changed sump, oil pick up and all sorts. One of the freeze plugs in the Volvo engine has a fitting for a pipe (around 12mm) that the Audi doesnt have, so check that. I was lucky in that the wiring was already there - only had to extend the wiring loom to the fuel pump and alter the dipstick tube. 140bhp instead of 115 was a nice improvement...
1968 Cal Look Beetle - 2007cc motor - [email protected] in full street trim 1970-ish Karmann Beetle cabriolet - project soon to be re-started. 1986 Scirocco - big plans, one day!
Todays small progress because its bloody freezing in my garage.
So, when this block is fitted into the Volvo, the dipstick tube locates in this hole in the front of the block -
When in the T4, the dipstick tube goes into the turbo oil return line at the rear of the block due to the fact the block is tilted forwards. So, fortunately on the Volvo the dipstick tube just pushes into the block into a rebated hole. I thought about tapping the hole and screwing a plug into it but in the end this worked-
Thick rubber washer, double nuts and thread lock!! Next water pump refitted with new big rubber O ring gasket. -
The rubber O ring fits into a tiny rebate and keeps popping out. I gave it a thin smear of blue sealant and it just held it in for fitting. Took three goes. The pump is fitted with three bolts but two of them have to come back out later as they also hold the inner belt cover tinware on. (Nice design Volvo/vw 👎) So only one bolt was loctited in and all done up to 20nm. Next the oil pump was fitted -
The oil pump has a cog that locates in thr end of the crank. Bit off a pain to line up. New gasket fitted and bolted up. Again three of the bolts have to come back out to fit tinware. New crank seal drifted home. Now to degrease again, mask and paint.
Gutted to find that my awesome 200nm+ torque wrench starts at 26nm and most bolts are only 20nm. So new 1/4 "drive purchased
Todays progress. Engine cleaned as best I can with thinners. Followed by masking and more masking. Oh and cutting the tip of my thumb nearly off with a stanley knife. So more cleaning, then finally.......PAINT!!!! Well primer anyway. I warmed the engine as best as I could with a heat gun. Then applied the VHT primer. Light coat. Heat gun. Full coat. Heat gun. Touch up missed spots. Heat gun. Second coat. Heat gun..
So far so good. It hasnt wrinkled or fallen off yet. I'll give it 24 hrs in the garage the give it a blast with the yellow. Shame I cant warm the garage and mrs will go mental if I bring it indoors