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I want to redrill my hubs but the area where the new studs would go isnt flat on the inside. I would need to spot face this area flat so the studs pull in properly.
What would I use to do this? Do this before redrilling or can the hole be used as a guide for the cutter? The front hubs I can put under my pillar drill but the holes in the rear half shafts are too close to the shaft so the shaft wont clear the drill head. Id have to spot face these ones with a hand held drill!
Any advice on this? Id rather not have to get it done by a machine shop, putting van on stands and taking all 4 corners apart on the road and leaving it like that untill the machine shop is done isnt something I like the sound of.
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93fxdl
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Last Edit: Mar 7, 2017 16:11:20 GMT by 93fxdl
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I found that site, and the back spot face cutter. but, £170!!!! Plus the holder shaft, and id be better off with a normal one to do the front hubs.
Too much money.
Searching counterbore drills shows promise. I guess thats the same deal and if it has 13mm or less shank I can try it in the hand drill.
I am all for 'make do' though so grinding a big drill bit to suite could be a goer.
I'm quite confident I can do the fronts, my pillar drill is ace. I'm not so sure it will go well using a hand drill though. Up for trying it though.
So, counterbore drill with something like a 1/2" pilot, 3/4" counterbore cutter and a 13mm shank, or try and grind a reasonably accurate pilot section on a large 13mm shank drill and learn to grind a flat cutting face.
Any other thoughts or tips?
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Wilk
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Could you set up an angle grinder to swing horizonally and flat to sort of cut a flat or alt, do you have access to a lathe with a bore large enough to pass the shaft through. You could then skim the back of the hub with a right hand cutting tool
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If it can be fixed with a hammer, then it must be an electrical fault
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93fxdl
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A piece of bar the size of your holes with a cutter from a tap seating tool fixed backwards to the end, with drill on the outside and pull back to cut the faces, may have to run the drill backwards. Didn't notice the prices, since they are mainly for aircraft work that makes sense, hate to think how many I have used in the past Ttfn Glenn
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Could you set up an angle grinder to swing horizonally and flat to sort of cut a flat or alt, do you have access to a lathe with a bore large enough to pass the shaft through. You could then skim the back of the hub with a right hand cutting tool Ive considered that but I think it would remove material from too large an area in this case. I do have a lathe, but only a small one.
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A piece of bar the size of your holes with a cutter from a tap seating tool fixed backwards to the end, with drill on the outside and pull back to cut the faces, may have to run the drill backwards. Didn't notice the prices, since they are mainly for aircraft work that makes sense, hate to think how many I have used in the past Ttfn Glenn unfortunately my pillar drill doesnt do backwards so id have to use my hand drill, in which case I can use a simpler normal cutter.
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93fxdl
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A piece of bar the size of your holes with a cutter from a tap seating tool fixed backwards to the end, with drill on the outside and pull back to cut the faces, may have to run the drill backwards. Didn't notice the prices, since they are mainly for aircraft work that makes sense, hate to think how many I have used in the past Ttfn Glenn unfortunately my pillar drill doesnt do backwards so id have to use my hand drill, in which case I can use a simpler normal cutter. Almost all the spotfacing I used to do was with hand drills, the important Part was the size of the pilot, so that the cutter was kept at 90 to the hole, hand drills are perfectly capable of doing accurate spot facing Ttfn Glenn
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I just redrilled my spare hubs and drums. Cant use them, wrong size brakes, but a good trial run. Drilling is very easy, I think spotfacing by hand will be no problem. I thought it would be like drilling my stainless bike disks, but its not. They drill like cheese. This is my issue, the rear hub issue is a bit worse. Bolts need a 1/2" hole, stud head is 3/4". I drilled these 12.5mm as I don't have any imperial drill bits. I can always get a metric counterbore bit and open the holes out to final metric size after.
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So, turns out I had a 22mm step drill so I ground it down and had a go. Lead into the hole is radiusd and I don't think its super flat. Drill was only cutting on one edge. But, this is a trial run so I went with it. Turns out I also had a 1/2" drill so opened the holes out after. Knocked the studs out and put them in the new holes and all is great. Studs sit square to the hub face! New pcd is accurate and brake drum fits pecectly snug on the hub center and the stud shoulders. Happy enough to do the real hubs now
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93fxdl
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Job done and 170 quid saved, has to be a result. Ttfn Glenn
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