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Jan 12, 2018 23:56:20 GMT
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Always nice to see the process you go through on these projects. Its inspiring me to approach the next section of my project more logically. thanks, Grumpy! JP It's not a problem and it's nice that others can learn from the processes - I would like to think that my restoration threads encourage others or possibly has you have stated - inspire
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Your threads always make even the most challenging repair look possible, they're a real boon.
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Jan 13, 2018 21:51:21 GMT
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Last Edit: Jan 13, 2018 21:54:02 GMT by Deleted
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 13, 2018 22:26:18 GMT
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For large compound curves like the front wings, how do you get the profiling smooth? I seem to always end up with flat spots no matter what combination of tools and techniques I use and it looks like the panel is a slightly underinflated football.
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Jan 14, 2018 10:18:33 GMT
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Flexible longboards I expect.
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Jan 14, 2018 11:54:45 GMT
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For large compound curves like the front wings, how do you get the profiling smooth? I seem to always end up with flat spots no matter what combination of tools and techniques I use and it looks like the panel is a slightly underinflated football. Probably better / easier if I explain the process with some images attached - has I will be undertaking this exact process in few days time - I will go through it then if you can wait a few days
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2018 11:56:07 GMT by Deleted
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 14, 2018 19:10:34 GMT
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I shall look forward to it
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Jan 15, 2018 21:28:23 GMT
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Inner wing / splash guard & wing / headlamp bracket now fitted to the offside Which in turn allows the radiator cowl to be offered / bolted up Fastens to the front of the inner wing And the top of radiator which in turn also supports the hinge rod bracket for the bonnet centre hinge Now the 2 sections of the front panel can also be fastened up The joint of the two panels will have a piping bead inserted once the panels are painted and finally assembled So now the nearside wing can be added Went over the panels by hand & eye - slightly adjusting / improving the fit has required then went over with the panel hammer & dolly improving the areas on the wing prior to skimming - very difficult to show in the images - the main profile shape of the wing is fine - it just has many small imperfections / minor dents to it Then got the wing skimmed up Along with the front panels in preparation of the profiling back tomorrow
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Last Edit: Jan 15, 2018 21:31:08 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 15, 2018 21:32:49 GMT
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Do these all get painted individually, then reassembled again?
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Jan 15, 2018 21:43:43 GMT
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Do these all get painted individually, then reassembled again? Yes & yes - so with the panels bolted to the van I can make any final adjustments / allowances to ensure that the piping bead will look correct when inserted between the panel flange joints - It's also a lot easier to profile the wings with them fastened to the van - once all the profiles on the loose panels are correct - everything gets unfastened / removed and primed / painted individually prior to final assembly - it sounds a faff and it is but it's the only way to do it properly.
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Last Edit: Jan 15, 2018 21:44:26 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 15, 2018 21:52:37 GMT
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Chris
Do you find the colour black take more preparation than other colours regardless of it the being gloss, satin or matt finish?
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Jan 15, 2018 22:16:55 GMT
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Chris Do you find the colour black take more preparation than other colours regardless of it the being gloss, satin or matt finish? Any dark colour will show the smallest imperfection / ripple / dent - the higher the gloss the more it will highlight - satins will still show defects in dark colours - matt finish less so but it will still show defects - white & very, very light colours tend to hide minor defects but it depends on where they are - horizontal surfaces tend show up more than a vertical surface with white - same old story really - black absorbs light whilst white reflects light - In my book it makes no difference preparation wise - I want every vehicle that passes through the workshop to look right when it leaves the workshop completed.
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Last Edit: Jan 15, 2018 22:20:08 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 15, 2018 22:24:54 GMT
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Cracking effort lad.
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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What's the rust prevention stuff you recommend again?
Wasn't that rad cowl a pretty involved piece of bodywork for a humble workhouse. I like it.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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What's the rust prevention stuff you recommend again? Wasn't that rad cowl a pretty involved piece of bodywork for a humble workhouse. I like it. I take it that's one that I am currently using that turns from a blue colour when wet - to black when dry ? - is this: It's a little more expensive than some of the other rust treatment products but the Bilt Hamber stuff is laboratory tested & proven - the rest of the markets offerings tend to just be a load of claims about how good there product is but with no proven record. You are right - the rad cowl is a very involved with multiple compound profiles, raised beads & recessed flanges - but it's just like any panel on any vehicle if you don't put the effort in at this stage it will look a mess and show through even the best / shiniest of paintwork and being the front nose of the vehicle it's a panel that stands out or tends to be the first panel profile that people observe when viewing the van from the front - hence regardless of how humble the van is and the fact that the cowl is painted (when on most vehicles the cowls were chrome) it still needs to look right
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Last Edit: Jan 16, 2018 8:25:28 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 16, 2018 21:52:12 GMT
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So onwards with the profiling on the nearside front wing and with a few tips & hints along the way has I said would cover profiling compound curves First - guide coating there are various 'Dry Guide Coats' available in the market - I don't use them - they are good but there is a lot cheaper alternative - tin of cheap aerosol matt black does the same job - just dust it over the filled area before sanding There are quite a few different rubbing block profiles available - might help the novice but I very rarely use them - I tend to rely on my flat block more than anything - even on this wing The guide coat used with hand / eye coordination is what I use - you need to keep running your hand over the area to give you a profile reading If its a large area or a full panel break it down into smaller sections for sanding profiling Work the block over the area in all directions - I tend to do opposing diagonal strokes then run over it left to right, top to bottom but there is no set pattern Has you progress the profiles you will have to go over the radial edges and swept curvatures by hand - keep your hand flat and work the profile shape keeping a supple wrist but with a fair to firm pressure on the sanding - don't be tempted to rub with end of you fingers -you will just end up finger size troughs in the panel Keep assessing the panel with your hand - top tips - always use the hand that you are not sanding with to assess the panel (sanding hand will desensitised through sanding movement) when you find a lump / bump / ripple in the profile but cannot pinpoint exactly where it is with your hand - look away from the panel or close your eyes - again access the panel with your hand and when you detect the defect place your finger to it - you can now look at the panel and your finger details the exact point which you can work if its too high or mark with pencil if it's low and requires further filling (it's very difficult to explain in text / images) If your results have previously looked slightly deflated - it sounds to me like a combination of the worked / filled area not being large enough to cover the damaged area and insufficient depth of filler A profile gauge may help with compound profiles if you are struggling - you can always check with the same panel on the opposite side of the car (providing that panel is undamaged) Meanwhile I have started to prep the offside front wing with rust treatment More tomorrow
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Last Edit: Jan 16, 2018 21:57:03 GMT by Deleted
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 17, 2018 17:12:33 GMT
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That's excellent advice, particular using the other hand and 'resetting' how you look at the panel, not things I'd considered doing. Very informative and useful post, I hope to put it into practice on the next difficult panel I work on. Thank you.
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Jan 17, 2018 17:43:33 GMT
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excellent advice
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Jan 17, 2018 18:13:52 GMT
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I do have a shrinker / stretcher that I used to form the angles on the radius corners and the top section angle
would love one for my self
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Jan 18, 2018 20:04:47 GMT
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Flexible longboards I expect. Is a fair point and one that I did not cover in my previous posting on compound panel profiling - so took some pics today of a flexible long block Can be utilised on long swept compound curvatures but are very difficult to use / navigate on tighter radius areas such has the return edge to the wheelarch on this wing - I use a long flex block that accepts Velcro backed sanding pads / paper and that has vacuum extraction fitted to it - professional blocks like this are expensive (£80 +) but there are some budget ones in the market that you will find on E Bay etc Other than that the profiles are advancing on the front panels & the nearside wing Cleaned the back wings up and applied rust treatment to enable them to be temporary fitted to the body whilst the profiles are undertaken
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Last Edit: Jan 18, 2018 20:07:48 GMT by Deleted
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