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I'm thinking youll need some petrol proof blue sealant when connecting that fuel pump.
from memory it is just the seal on the actual pump body that is prone to leaking.
the banjo bolts on the outlet and inlets need brass washers and these fibre ones too otherwise they will pee out all day long : /
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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Seriously though I do have a washer and 2 seals left over from the rebuild kit. I have a large shaft seal and a small shaft seal that I cannot suss out, has anyone used this kit and had the same situation?
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2016 20:10:10 GMT by nigxl
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can you take a pic of the leftover seals?
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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I'm thinking youll need some petrol proof blue sealant when connecting that fuel pump. from memory it is just the seal on the actual pump body that is prone to leaking. the banjo bolts on the outlet and inlets need brass washers and these fibre ones too otherwise they will pee out all day long : / I've got some blue hylomar that shoudl do it cheers. The pump may have to wait as I'd like to flush out the tank as it's bone dry and probably full of sediment and varnish if the carbs are anything to go by but who knows, we'll see how tomorrow goes
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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can you take a pic of the leftover seals? Like minds pics above
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2016 20:30:05 GMT by nigxl
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recognise anything in this lot? did you order the kits for the right year? there was something very specific about SU hif needles too...do you know what I'm talking about? lol
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nigxl
Part of things
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Yeah I ordered it from a really tidy guy, spoke to him on the phone, he was the one who asked if I wanted the needles. He seemed to know what I needed so I went with it. Glad I did too looking at the worn needles that were in there. I'm sure I used all the seals that were removed, I had the factory manual printout for the carbs but a lot of the parts had 'if fitted' so I don't know if they were fitted or not or previously removed There was a lot of slack in the throttle shafts but the new bushes that came with the kit have sorted that. Hopefully will go for a start tomorrow with a remote tank rather than drag any curse word through. I was going to wait until the new leads, cap and rotor arrive but I probably can't wait
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nigxl
Part of things
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Carbs on.
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nigxl
Part of things
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And she's a runner.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Woo! Nice work on the carb rebuild, I've done a set of HS4's and a set of HIF6's and I found I had some left over bits with the HIF's as well, although I was trying to rebuild them using a Metro turbo kit so I probably had too many bits.. Glad to hear its running, they're sturdy old lumps I haven't forgotten to get pics of that Sebring valance by the way, hopefully in a week or so..
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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Nice one thanks Adam. Got a video of it running although it's still a bit lumpy as I havn't balanced the carbs or changed leads and plug cap yet. Next job is a tank inspection and fit fuel pump and new fuel lines.
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2016 17:21:37 GMT by nigxl
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Good work - always a relief when the engine starts to run after a long lay over.
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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So I decided to connect the vacuum advance and guess what nothing is straight forward. The take off from the manifold had sheared off and been covered with a nut and nail.
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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So I soaked it in penetrant and tried an easy out on it but it wasn't shifting. So off came the manifold and obviously had to pull the exhaust off because the gasket needed to be changed. So I decided to order new gaskets for the pushrod covers at the same time as the exhaust was off as they are then accessible. So tomorrow now at the earliest before we go for another start. My leads and cap came though.
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nigxl
Part of things
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Covers back on with a lick of paint
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nigxl
Part of things
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And all back together and running again
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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Dec 12, 2016 16:00:09 GMT
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So she's a runner but not a very good one. I'm suspecting the electronic ignition unit may be at fault. I found a you tube link for testing electronic ignition systems and it measures voltage drop before and after you basically seperate the module from the rotor. Mine has no change in voltage which leads me to think the module is faulty. Also a measure of resistance gives an open circuit across the module which I'm thinking isn't good. Anyone had any experience of testing these modules?
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Last Edit: Dec 12, 2016 17:41:32 GMT by nigxl
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,939
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Dec 12, 2016 16:13:31 GMT
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Have you set the timing after fitting it? I'm no expert on electronic ignition by any stretch but I remember a couple of years ago when I first went to electronic ignition on my B, it ran awfully until I got it timed up
Though I was a total novice back then so I could have missed something else!
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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Dec 12, 2016 17:37:31 GMT
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Yeah it's timed up ok, even when I move the dizzy a few degrees either way it's still rough. Does anyone recognise this dizzy setup? There are no markings on it that I can see so I'm guessing it came as a kit with the electronics already fitted.
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nigxl
Part of things
Posts: 786
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Dec 12, 2016 17:39:33 GMT
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