joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Apr 22, 2018 15:10:05 GMT
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For sure, can't wait to have some more space and electricity.
Fingers crossed we're through the worst of it now, we're forecast a week of 55+, so assuming work is obliging, I can hopefully get some Datsun work done. I actually got the exhaust manifold bolted back on yesterday, then realised I had to out the O2 sensor on first... So that has to come back off.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Apr 30, 2018 17:29:50 GMT
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The ITBs are now on the car (was a total pain!). Now I need to figure out where to route vac lines and the like. The red box in the diagram is where I think the vacuum block will fit best. Ideally I'd like to have it exactly where the brake master servo is, but that doesn't look likely. I guess that's what you get for having a kit for a RHD car Some luck though, the FPR actually bolts straight into the bracket where the charcoal canister was, and the return line is already there - so all I have to do is put the outlet line from the fuel rail round the back of the engine to the FPR. The throttle linkage all connected up, and I stuck my foot on the loud pedal a couple of times and made car noises in my head. Getting there slowly...
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Apr 30, 2018 19:40:12 GMT
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I'm guessing there's a good reason for not putting the vacuum box on the other side of the engine bay, there' looks to be much more space on the throttle body side than the sid eyou've marked it out.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Apr 30, 2018 20:35:48 GMT
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I'm guessing there's a good reason for not putting the vacuum box on the other side of the engine bay, there' looks to be much more space on the throttle body side than the sid eyou've marked it out. I'll have another play around tonight. The vacuum box is pretty big, and the 6 vacuum feeds are going to be unwieldy.. but I shall try On the top side of the engine bay in that picture, there's literally a vacuum canister and some electrical gubbins.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Apr 30, 2018 21:54:31 GMT
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I'm not sure what happened to my typing there... I'm guessing the picture makes the engine bay look more roomy than it really is. I forgot just how swoopy the bonnet is on these in addition so that won't be helping with space since this isn't an engine-through-the-hood sort of build.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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This gives a better idea. The vac block is just resting on a random hose clip now. I actually think this is where I'll put it, as the routing for everything looks good.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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That gives a much better idea, it looks tight on space wherever you put but that looks like it belongs with plenty of space to run the pipes out the side. It's been a good 20 years since I saw the engine bay on one of these and yours is both lhd and not exactly stock, but it's still surprising how tightly packed everything is. Easy to forget just how small these really are, 20 years ago they were sort of average (for the UK at least) sized.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Yeah, LHD is what makes this fun. You've the aircon, brakes, clutch and steering column the same side as the exhaust and intake manifolds, along with all the wiring for the EFI. The right hand side is positively barren by comparison, with just the heater stuff, but I'd rather run a shorter brake booster vacuum line as possible, because that's a bit more stiff and hard to route.
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This looks sublime, slowly turning into exactly what I want my Z to become (shh we'll keep that a secret, I need to create a thread and update old ones) All the small parts, like rear light seals etc are you getting them from Z store?
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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This looks sublime, slowly turning into exactly what I want my Z to become (shh we'll keep that a secret, I need to create a thread and update old ones) All the small parts, like rear light seals etc are you getting them from Z store? Thanks! I use these mostly: zcarsource.com/www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNTzcardepot.com/Or eBay, although it normally turns out to be one of those stores... just on eBay
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Thanks, I was considering buying some foam and using the old seals as templates to sort mine, I'll have to check shipping costs to uk and see where I stand. I bought a full weatherstrip kit from ebay, the fit is surprisingly good and so it should be for the price. It had everything except light and quarter light seals
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Thanks, I was considering buying some foam and using the old seals as templates to sort mine, I'll have to check shipping costs to uk and see where I stand. I bought a full weatherstrip kit from ebay, the fit is surprisingly good and so it should be for the price. It had everything except light and quarter light seals There's another smaller site that's meant to produce good quality seals: www.vintagerubber.com/280z-2.aspx - still in the US though. I got my rear hatch seals from there and they fit perfectly.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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May 10, 2018 13:05:22 GMT
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Vacuum lines run from the manifold to the vacuum block, it'll eventually be mounted on the firewall above the brake booster. New brake booster hose routed as well (Mishimoto for extra JDM points). I've also purchased a second vacuum block to use with the idle control valve, I think it should end up being a really neat solution. I've also reached out to ITG filters to see about getting a sausage filter. Need some more vacuum line to run, ideally I want all the hoses to be black in the bay. The HT leads now stick out like a sore thumb!! This weekend I'll get the fuel lines done in the engine bay and start fitting up the sensors.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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May 11, 2018 12:35:28 GMT
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Sausage filter is quite important, you don't want sausages getting in your engine
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Epic couple of days working on the Datsun with a self imposed deadline of tomorrow.
The good - ITBs are on. Fuel leaks are fixed. Seat is in. Interior is in. ECU is working it's magic, although I'm not convinced it is capable of dealing with what. I drove the car 2 miles.
The bad - one piddly coolant leak that I can't find a suitable bolt to block off available locally.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Coolant leak fixed, everything seems happy. Will drive it home next time we have some dry weather!
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Can never get enough of shots of this engine bay and I'm not someone that gets excited by engines. The whole thing just looks so right in there.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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May 31, 2018 17:50:27 GMT
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Can never get enough of shots of this engine bay and I'm not someone that gets excited by engines. The whole thing just looks so right in there. Apart from the scruffy cam cover ^_^ I'm probably going to get a set of two 12" electric fans, as I really don't like the mechanical one. And it's definitely not just because I bashed my knuckles on it whilst topping up the coolant. Honest. In some rubbisher news, I've had the car out a couple of times, but the ECU isn't up to the task of dealing with fuelling for ITBs. I'd suspected this might be the case, but the company I bought it from convinced me otherwise. The problem is that the ECU uses a Speed Density algorithm for calculating how much fuel to inject, based on the engine load which is determined from the manifold pressure. This works great on a single TB system, as the manifold air pressure is a reliable indicator of engine load... but for ITBs, it isn't. On the 280Z, engine load was being calculated at about 30% at idle, then with less than 5% throttle, it would shoot up to 100%+. That obviously won't work, because there's 95% of the throttle that now isn't covered by the engine load calculation. This lead to my engine being OMG SUPER RICH on everything other than idle. I got in contact with the ECU manufacturer, who basically told me what I'd already figured out, and that an Alpha-N (entirely throttle position based) ECU would be needed. I put my order in, and I'll try and sell the original ECU (it's actually a nice bit of kit, just not for ITBs) to make some money back. Grrr.
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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The new ECU arrived, and I have the car idling pretty well with an Alpha N tune. The base map is safely rich... There's a little idle hunting going on, so I'm guessing there's an air leak somewhere to track down. I need to reduce the fuelling across the whole map, but so far I've been impressed with the new ECU. On another note, I finally signed up to Instagram: www.instagram.com/280emy/
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