These were built in Linwood I believe?? I actually stay on the site of the old rootes plant and my dad worked in the press shop he has some wicked stories of goings on would love a sunbeam or avenger keep up the good work! @
As a student I had an Avenger 1500 GLS, twin headlights, twin carbs, Roystlye wheels and a vinyl roof, great car and was great to chuck around lanes. I always thought a Sunbeam woudl eb a great car, watched one them one on the BBC Rallysprint event at Donnington. Way back I did a Forumla Ford driving day at Brands Hatch and they were using Sunbeam Ti's for the instruction laps (shows how long ago).
Is it true that the doors are the same as the Avenger hence the funny swage line?
1990 Mazda MX-5 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD5 2012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance
The Brands Hatch TI's were busy cars! I bought a brand new crated TI engine with carbs from a container in a war in Maidstone from a bloke that had bought all the remaining spares from when the cars were used, i paid £250 - shows how long ago that was.....
The doors are very very similar and can be swapped with fettling.
Regards the dash? There is much more to this story............
continous welding with two pieces of steel butted together, with intent to dress back afterwards, is always tricky i've found. end up using less power to stop it blowing through (because of the air gap) but you actually want more power to penetrate "enough" so that when you dress it back you don't start chasing hair line cracks around, where 95% the filler metal is removed.
only way i can do it is overlapping spot welds, so quite high settings, lay one spot, let it partially cool (just stops glowing) then lay the next spot half over the previous. again, the downside i found with that method is you end up with porous weld (little pin holes in middle each spot weld) but its structurally better. i found if you have rust or damp cavity behind overlapping spot welds, untreated on the rear of the welds, it sponges through and starts showing within hours !
This door is not as bad as the passenger door but none the less it will be interesting. The black stuff is rust convertor i used to treat bits that won't be replaced and might rust before i get the cavity wax stuff in!
I have now stopped using it as the 'weld through' title is misleading with my skills!!
not parweld stuff is it? i had a batch of paint which was like trying to migweld an oak tree. i came to the conclusion it was for the reverse of panels, i.e designed not to burn off from the penetration
u-pol weld #2 on the other hand (on the shelf at halfords) goes up a treat
So after helping a friend fit a type 9 into his RS1800, which is by far the hardest ever gearbox change i have done as the engine doesn't really fit the escort the way Ford did it..... He bought me a spit - Bonus!!
When done the wings were jet washed off. twice! And then all the insides including the cavities and turned over bits were coated in a Dinitrol product which is an epoxy primer rust convertor and it seems really good.
Wire brush and 115mm grinder results in a nice shiny bottom and me picking wire out of my skin afterwards. Amazing the wire makes it through three layers of clothing and if hit bare skin tends to go quite deep.
This is a PTS rally car strengthening kit. The car won't be a rally car but it adds lots of strength where the shell can be weak. Overkill? Maybe but i work on the theory that if the shell is strong it doesn't move and that helps handling and means it will last a lot longer - well it will with plenty of 'Waxoil' stuff.