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Well I have to say a big thank you to all for your good wishes. I can confirm that Pneumonia is pretty horrible and don't recommend it to anyone! I am now back on to "light duties" and as such have been doing a bit in the Manroom again. Whoop! One thing I really disliked about Zippy was that half of the fuel tank is held on by screws. My first thought was having a spreader plate with captive nuts, but this is nigh on impossible to achieve due to the area being an enclosed box section. Instead I have gone for a "belt and braces" approach of Rivnuts and epoxy resin. I didn't want them to fall out as the fibreglass is quite thick here, so out came the tank, followed by a bit of drilling. I then applied epoxy resin to the holes and the Rivnuts before fitting them as normal. I doubt they'll go anywhere... Staying on the subject of fuel, Zippy will be running a Facet Electric Fuel Pump, and I needed to find myself a fuel pressure regulator to keep things as they should be. I found one from an awesome seller on eBay (yes they DO exist!), and once it arrived I just needed to find somewhere to put it. I decided that as there's precious little room under the bonnet, under the wiper motor on the bulkhead would be a perfect place. Some CAD with a Jaffa Cake box saw it replicated from a scrap of steel, and some more quick work with the drill saw all the appropriate holes sorted. A trial fit worked really well, so now it's drying off having been painted. Next job will be sorting some fuel pipes. Tank out - to sort the fixings Rivnut trial fitted before adding epoxy resin Fuel Pressure Regulator - I need to put this somewhere Bracket concocted from scrap steel Trial fit - looking good. Bracket now in paint.
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Last Edit: Apr 7, 2018 22:45:32 GMT by mrbounce
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Glad you’re feeling better. I’ve been a bit poorly lately, and had an unscheduled stay in the krankenhaus. It’s no fun.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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May 14, 2018 19:01:20 GMT
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Let's talk about horns. Initially I wanted to use a set of air horns on Zippy, but from what I remember you cannot use just an air horn on a car of his age, so I would either have to use a standard horn or a combination of both that and an air horn. This lead me to another problem (normal with this car) - space. There is not a lot. Having decided that a decent loud "normal" horn would be the best way forward, my brother bought me a pair of high/low tone horns from CBS. I have tested them. All I need to say is that "Holy **** they're rather noisy". I will not be needing air horns. Now, where to put them?? My initial thought was somewhere close to the radiator, but with the fan and the oil cooler in place, space is at a premium. So I concentrated on higher up in the engine bay. The offside inner wing fairly close to the bulkhead provided an adequate empty area, so a bit of measuring saw a CAD template made. This was turned into steel, drilled and bent to shape, before being painted. A couple of rivnuts and all was ready to go on. I'm happy. Wiring will follow. A suitably empty space for the loud pair. Jaffa Cake Box + Steel Paint! Rivnuts And finally, HORNS!
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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May 14, 2018 22:02:36 GMT
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I have used those (or something very similar) and yes, they’re plenty loud enough! 😃
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I've been fed up with the lack of progress this year, so I felt that if I sorted out the seat mounts, I could then sort out carpets and actually start feeling like I've actually got somewhere and have something to show for it. The trouble with an old kit car built by someone else means that any changes usually need a complete re-think or rework, which is why things have taken a while - it's not simply a matter of bolting stuff back together. Anyway, I digress. The buckets I have acquired are flat-bottomed and although I can bolt runners to the bottom of them, there's then no clearance for them to clear the carpet. And so began the simple but rather fiddly job of creating something. The solution was easy - a long bit of 2"x 2" box section steel. Once I'd measured the runners, out came the hacksaw and 2 blades later I had 4 bits ready to be drilled. How I coped before I got myself a pillar drill I'll never know - it's potentially the most useful power tool I have in the garage. My initial plan was to weld captive nuts inside so I could simply bolt the runners in but there's no clearance to get a spanner in to tighten up the bolts. In fact you can't actually move the bolt head through 360 degrees once it's home, so I went back to more conventional methods. I then realised that the runners themselves needed clearance on the seat base due to the adjusters, which meant I needed spacers and longer bolts. I popped to the local bolt shop (yes we have one!!) and grabbed 8 bolts and 8 spacers for the grand total of £1.30. I like to support my local business, even if it does mean taking a 5-mile detour to avoid the traffic from the local Agricultural Show (and there was a lot!). I've now drilled the other side of the 2x2 to accept bolts to go through the floor. Next job, measuring, drilling, fitting, and sitting. Maybe then I can take advantage of this good weather and make some carpets... Flat bottomed seat - no good for clearance Runners - also flat (ish) Length of 2x2 to give appropriate clearance Longer bolts and spacers from the helpful local bolt shop And happily bolted to the seat
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Ahoy, I love Midas Coupes and keep toying with the idea!
But anyway I digress... instead of using RivNuts, next time look at BigHead fittings, you can get threaded or blind females or through females and then laminate them into the back of your panels, they'll spread the load better.
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Thank you greencarfritz - I will do just that Right now, I am in the process of filling the imaginary swearbox in the garage (there's no point in me actually having one as it would always be full and I'd never have any spare cash). I have discovered a slight issue with the seat mods that I have done. I trial fitted them in the car - they looked great. I then sat in them. I don't fit. It turns out, that at 5ft 8 1/2" of superbly proportioned (ahem) height, I am too tall for the current configuration. A Midas is indeed a VERY small place to be. I will therefore try to fit them using the just runners and without the additional box section steel I spent half an afternoon fitting. To quote Bill Murray in Ghostbusters: "Motherpusbucket".
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I have decided that I will come back to the seat issue. It has bugged me for a while, so much so that I shut the Midas in the garage, enjoyed the sunshine a bit and sulked about the Midas. A lot. Whilst trying to figure out something else to do to get some motivation back, I turned my attention to the front lights. Well, the headlight covers, to be more precise. Now mine were in a real state - they were not attached to the car properly when I got it - just jammed in place and there were holes from where some form of fixing had been used and had long since disappeared. Time to repair and rejuvenate! I made some tape-covered cardboard sections up and fixed them over the holes, then out came the chopped strand mat (cut into appropriate sections) and the last of the resin I had on the shelf. Luckily I had enough to sort the holes, and once dry I was able to easily peel off the card. A little bit of filler followed, then my favourite thing - sanding.* I then needed to line them up correctly and make some holes. Using the existing holes in the bodywork, I was able to mark the fresh fibreglass then make a hole in it for an appropriate fixing other than a blinking self-tapper (it seems that the previous owner put them EVERYWHERE). A coat of primer then followed. Once this is dry I shall paint them properly in satin black. At least it'll dry quickly - it was close to 30 degrees in front of the garage... Headlight covers as found - lots of holes and imperfections. Midway through fibreglassing Marked for drilling (the white dot in the middle) Bigger hole made Test fitting And a coat of primer *This is as far from the truth as you can get...
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Last Edit: Jul 1, 2018 20:16:33 GMT by mrbounce
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As I discovered that I had run out of satin black paint (just as I was spraying the headlight covers, causing a splutter or two and the need for a re-paint), I had a look at the sidelights/indicator units. These were Triumph Dolomite units and the wiring was, for want of a better word, utterly banjo'd. By this I mean that the wiring was black and or corroded, so I needed something to replace it. My knowledge of wiring is very poor, so I asked Tink for some advice. Rather than giving me said advice, he took them apart, removed the old wires and soldered in new sections for me whilst I waited. We also discovered that one of the sidelights had no spring in the bulb holder, so we rectified that with an appropriately sized spring from his spares box. Once I had them back in the garage I popped in some bulbs, new gaskets and the front lenses and mounted the first of them back on to the car. At least half of it anyway. One of the bolts is virtually inaccessible without taking at least one thing off (oil cooler or radiator) so I need to have a look at the best course of action. I gave up at this point as it was 30 degrees in the garage and I felt like I'd lost about 6lbs just from being in there... New wires added to the front sidelight/indicator units. Damaged rubber cover was replaced with a better one. What the unit looks like on the car (well, half-attached anyhow...).
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Those indicators look like Mini Clubman ones.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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No Mini Clubman ones are equal white / amber and shared with the Maxi James
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Jul 21, 2018 16:06:04 GMT
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It is still very hot here and my garage is still like a blast furnace. So recently I've done precious little in the garage and done other things less likely to give me heatstroke. I had a chat with my father-in-law, who runs a company that makes car cleaning products, about cleaning the K&N filter that I had fitted to Zippy. It really was quite dirty and I had read that one of the best things to clean them with was TFR (Traffic Film Remover). This is mainly because it's significantly less harsh than straight petrol. Steve said that TFR was an option, but also that his general purpose cleaner in neat form would be just as good as apparently the basic recipe is the same. So he got me a decent sized bottle of it and I was able to get my hands dirty. I poured the cleaner into an old washing up bowl, dunked the filthy filter in and gave it a good going over with a sponge. All I need to say is "Whoa! That's a LOT of dirt!" Once I'd done this 3 times, I gave the filter a good rinse with clean water and put it outside to dry. How much dirt came out? Well, the picture of the fluid speaks for itself... I shall re-oil it once it's dry. One dirty K&N filter... Dunked in some freshly poured cleaning fluid (or is it Predator blood?) Much cleaner filter How dirty??!!
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Jul 31, 2018 20:57:53 GMT
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Just another minor update - but it's a good one: after a minor modification, I now fit. Thanks to the wise words of the Midas experts, I removed the 1/2" spacer I'd fitted to the rear runner mounting, thus tipping the seat marginally backwards. Considering it was such a small amount I have managed to make enough room to snugly fit myself in. There's not a massive amount of room but I don't care. This makes me happy. I shall measure up and do some drilling in due course to properly mount the seats. I took the time to oil the now cleaned K&N filter using their own oil in an aerosol. It has now regained its reddish hue and smells like a it's come straight out of the box. Lovely. Finally, whilst fitting the filter back on to the carb I took another look at the heater pipes. They were only roughly in place so were open to adjustment. I hated the way the pipe from the heater outlet on the head just sat badly over the carb area, so using some 90 degree connectors and the inlet manifold it's a lot neater. It's still a work in progress and I may move the fuel pressure regulator slightly but the basic principle looks good. Slightly re-positioned seat - now allows my head to not hit the roof! Newly oiled K&N - looking like it should again. And re-positioned piping complete with colour coded elbow connectors. Some tweaking still required.
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Once again a very small update, but little bits done now means more time later (or something like that anyway). As I had decided to reposition the heater pipe I found I had an issue with the heater valve clashing with the fuel pressure regulator. I started thinking about making new brackets but then realised I didn't have flat steel in anything approaching the right size. Short of cutting the fridge in the garage up (a no-go as I rather like my Pepsi Max, ice-cream and beer), I decided on the next best thing and moved the bracket. Using the left bolt in the right hand hole, moving the bracket and then drilling a further hole, I was able to move the whole bracket over by about 2/3", which was more than enough to allow enough clearance for the heater valve. I know this now means I have a grommet for an unused hole, but you can't see it unless you take half the front end apart. By this time Sherman had joined me which made tightening up the bolts slightly more problematic but eventually it was all back together. Clashing issues between heater valve and fuel pressure regulator Moving bracket made for more room although it's difficult to tell from this pic. Must use better angles next time... Original hole can be seen on the left. Sherman came to help; and found a new comfy. Fuel pressure regulator moved and bolted up, grommet now in place.
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As long as Sherman is comfy.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Is it worth getting fuel hose clamps rather than jubilee ? Believe you get more even pressure with the 'proper' mikalor style jobbies and less likely to get hose splitting issues. Getting there - how much is on the list now? James
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Is it worth getting fuel hose clamps rather than jubilee ? Believe you get more even pressure with the 'proper' mikalor style jobbies and less likely to get hose splitting issues. Getting there - how much is on the list now? James Never used them on Minis but it's certainly something to consider. Re "the list" it goes something like this: ALL wiring including clipping to bodywork. Create and build a dashboard from scratch. Soundproofing. Make new carpets. DRILL holes for seat runners. Fit front lights and adjust accordingly. Make exhaust and fit it. Mount fuel pump and connect up fuel system. Mount handbrake and connect up cables. Redo pedal box with longer studs. Get new brake master cylinder and fit. Connect up and bleed brakes. Build up doors. New window seals for EVERYTHING. New sunroof seals. New tyres for wheels. Fit gearstick inc quickshift. Sort bumpers. Oh, and test it all!! So not too much
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Last Edit: Aug 6, 2018 11:56:15 GMT by mrbounce
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Weekends work ! Book it for next Monday ? Every job off the list is a step closer, thanks for the updates. James
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Coming on great. K&N filters make the power but they never seem to filter as well as a paper element.
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Coming on great. K&N filters make the power but they never seem to filter as well as a paper element. Maybe but this one was free
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