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Apr 11, 2017 21:07:55 GMT
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Time for another quick update. I started to clear the main workbench as it had got a bit messy. Pulled out the heater as I had managed to get some overspray on it. Stripped it down and gave the outer panels a fresh coat of satin black. Then, as I was sorting other stuff out, I found a piece of scrap metal I thought that I had lost or thrown away. "That'll do for a bracket for the solenoid" I thought. So I dug out the solenoid, took it out of its box and started mocking up with good old CAD (This time it was the cardboard packaging for a new pack of socks!). If your starter is the older type with no piggy-back solenoid, you need to find somewhere other than the inner wing for the solenoid to sit as of course there's precious little in the way of inner wings on a Midas... Once happy with the mock-up, out came the angry grinder and I used a 1mm cutting disc to make mincemeat of the now marked piece of 3mm steel. I cleaned the edges up with a file, then set about measuring then drilling a few holes for mountings. It's going to live on the front of the clutch cover above the starter, so all I needed were 4 simple holes and judicious use of a blowtorch and hammer. Over to the pillar drill, then I marked it, heated it with the blowtorch for a good few minutes then clouted it hard with a hammer until it was the right shape. In went a couple of 5mm rivnuts and I tested out where it's going to sit. It'll still need a little bit of trimming but overall I am happy with it. CAD Template  After bending and rivnutting  Fitted. Still needs a bit of trimming but fits pretty nicely.  |
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Apr 19, 2017 20:53:48 GMT
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Back on it tonight after a hectic long weekend, I sneaked into the Manroom this evening to get an hour or so's worth of tinkering. I'd chopped a a couple of bits off the solenoid bracket to avoid losing a hand whenever I went under the bonnet and had also painted it, so I then chucked it on the engine to get it out of the way. When i was looking at the engine I thought I'd try the steady bar. Of course, this was a stupid idea as a) you need a shorter one in a Midas and b) there was a clunk and the metallic "clink" of something hitting the floor as I pushed the bolt through the bracket. Yup, the washer that had been welded or brazed on had gone walkabout, leaving a larger hole. How helpful. I remember when I first added this bracket thinking that I was glad I would never have to fit it again. That of course was without the pedals and clutch lines added. Now of course, it was the most difficult thing in the world to remove. As the pedals are in the way you cannot get a socket on the bolts. The only option is to jam a spanner in there and hope for the best. After 20 minutes of adding to the swear box, off it came. Then off to the bench to give it a quick strip with the angry grinder and wire wheel and then find suitable washers to weld on properly. I will be taking it to Tink's tomorrow to use his ridiculously good MIG then will give it a fresh coat of satin black. It's likely I will then spend 3 days trying to put it back on... To stop myself getting too annoyed I chucked in the heater brackets under the dash shelf so when I get some more time I will be able to add said heater to the car and get it out of the way. And finally I started making a CAD template for the expansion tank, which will hopefully sit on the crossmember just in front of the washer bottle. Solenoid bracket amended to make it less lethal to hands...  The most awkward thing to remove in my car. This includes the M/C split pins. Viewed from above to amuse you.  This is the reason why - there used to be a washer here, making a smaller hole for the bolt.  Bracket stripped of paint and washers ready to be welded.  CAD Template started for expansion tank. I need to find something appropriate to cut up for the bracket now...  |
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Last Edit: Apr 19, 2017 20:55:32 GMT by mrbounce
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Apr 22, 2017 15:02:34 GMT
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You know those days where everything goes a bit wrong? I appear to have been having one for the last 3 days it would seem. Firstly my welded washer came off my steady bar mount so I took it to Tink's to use his welder. He discovered that he was out of gas. So he kindly took it to work and got it sorted there and I picked it up this morning. I then primed and painted it, running out of primer at just the wrong moment... Once the paint was dry I set about putting the mounting back on the car with a view to nipping up the new adjustable steady bar (also painted). Amazingly, given my recent luck, the mount went back on the car really easily although of course I scratched the newly painted steady bar. I made up a spacer for the mount and bolted it all together. I then went to line it up with the engine and found that the steady bar was almost an inch too high. I suppose that nothing should surprise me on this car given the number of bodges I've encountered, but the steady mount is THAT far out?? Of course it may never have been used as there was a "Heath-Robinson" effort on the thermostat side of the engine (which looked about as effective as using Play-Doh...), but surely it doesn't take much to measure something properly?? Maybe I should have checked it first, but you wouldn't expect a mounting point to be that far out. I shall use my CAD template skills (still in their infancy) and will make a new bracket up that utilises the original mounting points so I don't have to "drill and fill". That is, once I have stopped wanting to find the man who put it there in the first place and subject him to something severe. And possible painful... Repaired bracket and new steady bar, both wearing new paint.  It should be about an inch lower. Must resist the temptation to grab hammers and get ugly...  |
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Having not gone into the Manroom for a week, I returned the other day realising that, in no uncertain terms, I have been an idiot. My apologies to the man who made the steady bar bracket. If I hadn't been so grumpy and tired I probably would have tried a different way of attaching the steady bar - this was, quite simply, to attach it to the engine first (loosely) and simply raise it up to fit the bracket correctly. All is now attached at the top, so I moved on to the other steadies. I don't like the "Ultimate Engine Steady" bars that are offered on the Mini market having had a bad experience myself, so I looked into other ways to keep the engine in place. The older Minis of course never had a problem with the enormous aluminum gearbox extension on the remote boxes, but having a newer rod change box meant this wasn't an option. The standard set-up is of course the top steady bar from the bulkhead to the engine, and the one from the front of the gearbox to the subframe. Then there's the option of the "Ultimates" which I didn't want, but there are also the bottom rear steady bars available from Mini Spares. I had bought these ages ago so got them out of the cupboard and set about fitting them. The front one was a piece of cake, as was the left hand rear one - simply bolt up and forget. The right hand rear one just required one extra hole drilling in the subframe - not the easiest angle to get to. However, once the hole was there it was nice and simple. The engine doesn't move at all now - job done. Continuing the theme under the car, I figured I may as well attach the gear selector too. Now bear in mind that when I got the car, it had no engine and gearbox in it, and the previous engine had been a Cooper S engine complete with remote box. As a result the gear selector hole was in the wrong place. I had filled in the hole with fresh fibreglass a couple of years ago, and now it was time to a) drill the holes for the bobbins and b) cut a big hole in the floor. I don't know it different Midas models came with different transmission tunnels (or whether they could be ordered with different ones according to gearbox type, but it's clear that mine was designed for a remote box as it's far more curved. However, I drilled the holes (twice it turned out due to the curve - the unused ones are now grommeted up) and managed to get it all mounted. Amazingly I got the roll-pin in first time (yes, I did make a smug face underneath the car) - now all I needed to do was to cut a hole. So, using the mounting plate for the gaiter as a template, I marked out roughly where to cut, and attacked it with the angry grinder and the Dremel. It still needs a bit of tidying up, but I am happy that it's now done. Finally I turned my attention to the engine and popped the oil pressure light switch in as well as the sender unit for the electric gauge I have. There's not a lot of clearance in there at all, so I may change my plans to just use the gauge. I shall consult various experts and see what they suggest. Top steady bar now fitted after previous idiocy.  Bottom front bar fitted as well  Left rear...  ...and right rear all bolted up.  Extended gear selector also fitted and bolted up.  Template marked out for making a hole...  There's a hole in my car. Selector taped up to avoid filling it with fibreglass dust.  Thick fibreglass in this bit, thankfully.  Not much room for the oil senders. I am thinking of changing my plans - nothing is set in stone.  |
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Superb work, I hope my young lad builds something like this in the future, I've always wanted to but I'm more of a tinkerer than a hands on builder!!
See young George's escort thread, I hope he learns the skills to emulate your type of build
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Fraud owners club member
2003 W211 Mercedes E class
1989 Sierra sapphire
1998 ex bt fiesta van
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Superb work, I hope my young lad builds something like this in the future, I've always wanted to but I'm more of a tinkerer than a hands on builder!! See young George's escort thread, I hope he learns the skills to emulate your type of build Thank you Dan. I am by no means an engineer - I learn from tinkering and making mistakes!  I have always wanted to rebuild a car; however next time I will choose one that hasn't sat for so long and has an engine and a usable interior... I have been popping in to George's Escort thread from time to time - I would have given my right arm to do car stuff like that at his age. Sadly my Dad never shared my love of cars, having not owned one since 1981... |
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Last Edit: May 29, 2017 12:15:49 GMT by mrbounce
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Just a quick update tonight, but it is another successful one. A few months ago, when I'd fitted the tank sender unit, one of the bolts didn't nip up properly and I made a mental note to check it out. When I had a tidy up in the garage, I moved the tank and had a look at it. Turns out that, despite me using new bolts from Mini Spares, the threads had stripped. The tank itself was bought secondhand, so my guess is that someone had re-tapped the bolt holes. Either that or they were all knackered. This left me with a number of options. 1) Throw the tank away and buy a new one. I really didn't fancy the idea of spending £150+ on a new tank that I would then cut the filler neck off a bit. Plus I didn't have £150 spare. 2) Chop the offending area out and fabricate a new bit and weld it in. Both mine & friend's welders are out of gas. Plus I would not be sure how successful it would be. 3) Drill and re-tap the offending knackered holes to a larger size. Armed with encouragement from 2 very helpful Mini Forum members, out came a 4mm drill bit, which was followed by the hoover and then an M5 tap. I did need to make the holes in the gasket slightly larger (using a belt punch of all things!) but it all went together surprisingly well. The acid test came when I'd put it all together - would it leak? 5 minutes with a litre or so of fuel with the tank on its side said no. Success! And a happy me with more in the bank! Stripped threads on new bolts.  Larger M5 bolts make a good seal. Lovely.  |
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May 29, 2017 12:35:46 GMT
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Apologies for the somewhat glacial pace of this rebuild - things like work and family seem to get in the way, which is a little unfair really! Anyway, after a trip down to Brighton to see all the Minis and the stalls, I came back with a few bits and have done a few minor things and come across yet ANOTHER problem. I shall explain: I got some more blue paint and have given the tank a decent covering of it as the black I'd hit it with was a bit rubbish. So all I need to do with it now is to pop a new seal on to the sender (the old one looked ropey) and chuck it on the car, which will help me with determining where to put the fuel pump. I managed to pick up up various bits in Brighton, including new wiper wheelboxes, a dipstick which (almost) matches the engine and a new alternator, as when we tested it, my current one doesn't do as it's supposed to. The calipers were ready to go on, so first of all I found my fresh set of EBC Black stuff pads, new pins and anti rattle shims, then built them up on the bench and after remembering the copper washers, put them on the car. It will soon be time to put poor Zippy back on his wheels and move him out into the daylight so I can have a good look at what needs to be sorted. There's numerous little scrapes and chips on the fresh paint (all my fault) so I will be needing to do some touching in. Oh joy - more painting... Finally I have discovered my latest problem: My beautiful MG Metro rocker cover with its new cap does not fit under the bonnet. There's precious little room under there anyway, but the cap and the t-bars foul, so unless anyone can suggest an alternative oil cap that fits in the MG cover, then a different original-style cover it is. Balls. Freshly painted tank - soon to be added to the car.  New wiper wheelboxes. The old ones were beyond saving.  Calipers built up on the bench with new pads, pins and shims.  Attached to the car  New dipstick (there wasn't one with the engine in bits). It almost matches...  Brand spanking new alternator. Far cheaper than it ought to have been - gotta love Mini Shows...  And the Rocker Cover that's too tall for the bonnet. Probably a combination of Mk1 bonnet, new engine mounts and, well, new everything.  |
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Tearing myself away from most things engine-related, I thought I ought to take a look at the wiper motor. This was languishing on the spares shelf and had been since I stripped the car. No More! Once I got it on to the bench I realised that it was filthy and in need a of a clean and minor refurb. As far as wiper motors go, it probably hasn't actually done that much work so a freshen up would most likely do. I stripped it down into its component parts, noting where everything went and started the deep clean. Typically the park switch broke but new ones are available and are not desperately expensive so I'll get a new one. The old one was disgusting though, so I probably did myself a favour. I gave the wiper rack tubes a degrease, de-rust and spray in primer followed by satin black. I then did the same to the 3 parts that make up the wiper motor body. Interestingly the motor was dated 1982, which must mean that the original on the car was probably replaced at some point, this being a 1981 car. I shall hopefully put it all back together with no issues... Wiper Motor in its component parts, midway through being cleaned.  Rack tubes mid-colour change  Body parts in primer...  ...and in satin black.  Of course, I did the main body too.  Filthy switch with broken locating pin. It might work again, but I'll replace it.  |
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Just a quick update today. As I am likely to fit the tank fairly soon, I realised it needed the neck sealing ring (which I didn't have). Not to be deterred I found and decent piece of dense foam in the Manroom and cut it up until I had something approaching what is sold normally. it's a bit untidy but nobody's going to see it anyway... I was fiddling around with the wiper rack tubes and the new wheelboxes on the bench and thought to myself "I may as well get these out of the way". So, armed with a 5/16" socket and the parts, off I went down the front end of the car. After some initial confusion where nothing seemed to line up correctly (I'd inadvertently put the wheelboxes upside down), the job was pretty straightforward; although having 3 hands would have made it easier. I have rubbed down the chrome plinths I have and sprayed them satin black - these will go on later. Finally, as I was fiddling around in that area, I took a look at the washer tubing. I have always hated the way this worked on this car. It was loosely fed up the side of the washer bottle and through the bulkhead using the same hole as the wiper rack. It looked dreadful. So out came the drill and the vicious little nibbly thing (cone cutter). My first plan was to use a grommet and feed the washer tube through the bulkhead using a small hole cut by the bottom of the washer bottle. However, the fibreglass is pretty thick here so I had a rethink. It turns out that fuel hose is the exact size for washer pipe to run through, so I cut a 6mm piece and popped it into the hole I'd drilled. Looks SO much neater. Needs a tiny bit of colour matching (you can just make out a tiny ring of white...) but that won't take much to sort. Homemade tank neck sealing ring. 5 minutes work with some foam and pair of scissors. I think I used a pint glass and a tin of polish as templates to draw round. I deserve a Blue Peter badge!  Small but satisfying modification to the route the washer tubing takes through the bulkhead. Much neater.  |
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More nice work, car is going to be a stunner!
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Fraud owners club member
2003 W211 Mercedes E class
1989 Sierra sapphire
1998 ex bt fiesta van
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Jun 14, 2017 20:38:30 GMT
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More shenanigans have gone on in the past few days: I finally managed to get hold of the correct fan sender switch for the radiator - a proper "New Old Stock" piece so spend 12 seconds fitting that, then decided to drag the alloy wheels out to give them a once over. Of course they were filthy, covered in dust, dirt, overspray and spiders' webs. I also got the pressure washer out so gave them all a good blast. Now, the initial plan was to get them blasted, but as funds are tight I am not sure that they need it as they look like they're in quite good condition bar the overspray. A few hours with some wet & dry and they might be good for a fresh coat of paint. What do people think? I then got back to the wiper motor. My new park switch had arrived so I could get back to putting everything back together. On went the new switch, followed by the motor itself, and I then sorted the wheel and greased up the rack and the innards. All is ready to go into the car now. One thing I could never stand was the way Minis had a piece of foam where the wiper motor sat, happily taking on water so it could start rusting through the bulkhead. Although that's not an issue here, wet foam looks rubbish once it's got wet, so I will be using some rubber drawer liner which I have kicking about. Fold it over and there's plenty of cushioning - a nice pad for the motor to sit on. I should be able to install it once I find the strap. I have made a modification to this as well, but that will have to wait until next time... New fan switch installed. Fits beautifully.  Dirty wheels about to pressure washed  And drying off in the sun. They don't look too bad.  Old switch, new switch. No prizes for guessing which one I used.  Motor and cam wheel installed  All greased up  New pad for the motor to rest on  And the finished product. I just need to find the strap now so I can fit it...  |
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Jun 14, 2017 20:51:25 GMT
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Wheels don't look to bad
I've used a kit bought from cetem
Easy for diy use and give a good finish to the polish rim
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Fraud owners club member
2003 W211 Mercedes E class
1989 Sierra sapphire
1998 ex bt fiesta van
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Jun 23, 2017 20:59:58 GMT
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Still think I might get them blasted - I am one who doesn't have the patience to do several hours of sanding on strange-shaped surfaces - and there's 5 of them  I couldn't find the wiper motor strap I had so dug out the old one (For some reason I had two) and then proceeded to modify it in a similar way to the one I've lost. There's a problem that the Mini wiper motor lends to the Midas - Cracks. This is because when I got it, my wiper motor strap was held on by two rather large screws, which had caused the fibreglass to crack around where they'd bitten in. I wanted to avoid this, so decided to go down the good old-fashioned spreader plate method. Using 5/16" bolts, a strip of 3mm steel raided from an old Ultimate Engine Steady, 2 nuts and a welder, I made a decent spreader plate then proceeded to go about fitting it. First I modified the strap by drilling out the screw holes to accept 5/16" bolts, then measured up where it needed to be on the bulkhead. Out came the cordless drill and 2 holes appeared. The plate lined up beautifully (I think I am getting good at this measuring lark). But I wasn't quite finished. I didn't want it to move if I ever needed to take the wiper motor off, so whilst held in place by the bolts, I spent a few minutes fibreglassing it in place (and enjoying the fumes). Typically though as I was moving stuff to start the fibreglassing, I broke one of the washer jets. I know they're only a couple of quid but "Grrrrr!"  New ones are on order... Although I didn't take any pictures, I have also remade my bracket to hold the gear selector in place as the curvature was all wrong on the first attempt. It's currently being painted. More to follow. Wiper motor with strap, midway through drilling. You can just about see the edge of the rubber pad I'm using.  Spreader plate ready to go in.  Bolted in place  And time for little bit of CSM and resin!  Oops - broken washer jet...  |
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This happened today... IT'S ON WHEELS!!   |
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Jul 11, 2017 21:13:33 GMT
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I've done a few little things tonight, mainly putting in the heater and associated pipework. The first part was easy as I'd already put in the brackets so all I needed to do was to hang the studs on them. Next part was less easy - make sure it stays where it's supposed to be. I've never liked using large screws to attach heavy objects, so instead I've used bolts and spacers. It's not ideal if I want to take it out again, but having rebuilt the heater I expect to not have to. I followed this up with heater pipes. I HATED the way these had been done on this car when I first got it - two holes made for the pipes below the fusebox and no grommet for them. out came my new holesaws and a pair of beautifully manicured holes appeared for the 5/8" pipes and the necessary grommets to keep them tidy and to project against chafing. Finally I knocked up a bracket to mount the expansion tank. There were two ready made holes on the bulkhead that I was happy to use, so a bit of CAD followed by some steel cutting and bending gave me a usable, if simple bracket. There's a rivnut attached which allows me to easily mount the tank. Heater mounted. I don't intend for it to come out again.  There's holes in my car! These will tidy up nicely with pipes and grommets.  Simple but effective expansion tank bracket, prior to paint.  |
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Another evening, another couple of jobs done: The first was to mount the bracket for the expansion tank subsequently the tank to it. It was an easy 5 minute job until I realised that the non-threaded part of the bolts I was using were too long. I changed them for shorter set-screws instead (my Uncle the engineer would be proud of me for using the correct terminology!). After some interesting contortions (you definitely can't do this on your own with the windscreen in...), the tank was mounted and seems perfectly happy. I even connected the overflow pipe up. The second job ranks as one of the worst jobs to do on a Midas - refitting the rear wiring loom along with newly-added extra earth wires through the sill. It's not so much of a difficult thing (much like fitting the front top shock mounts) but it is for want of a better phrase f-ing awkward. First of all, feeding it through a tiny hole and then over the wheelarch took at least an hour as nothing would happily go where it was supposed to. Then once I had managed to grab it from the top of the wheelarch, it took another hour or so to actual manage to thread it through the sill and up the door pillar to the dash. I have bruised and scratched arms from my efforts to get it to where it should be. However, it is now done. I just need to start connecting stuff up now... Tank in position with new bracket  Rear loom in and poking out by the dash. I am NOT doing that again!!  |
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Jul 13, 2017 19:24:08 GMT
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More good work there fella
This car is gonna be a cracker!
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Fraud owners club member
2003 W211 Mercedes E class
1989 Sierra sapphire
1998 ex bt fiesta van
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I've been on holiday so haven't been able to get a lot done, but i have managed to get a couple of jobs done and dusted. I dug out the rear hatch hinges which have been in a box for the past two years. One of them needed the seized remains of the old bolts drilling out, so off to the pillar drill. I centre-punched the middle of the old bolts and the drill made short work of clearing them out. I then tapped the new holes to take slightly large bolts. Then it was time to give them a rub down and a coat of paint. As per the rest of the car they've been given a coat of satin black. An emergency call-out on the Mini Forum for some replacement bits saw a parcel arrive after the exchange of beer tokens (cheers Phil!) and I now have in my possession a waterpump pulley (conveniently already painted silver!), an alternator mounting post and a replacement bit of wiper rack tubing (I noticed mine had split). The pulley is fitted already, and the tubing and post have been rubbed down and repainted. Can I find my alternator bracket? Nope... Finally to create a little bit more space in the garage I chucked the petrol tank on the car. This is only loosely mounted at the moment as there was only me and it was very difficult to do the bolts up as they kept moving. I shall enlist the help of Mrs Bounce to hold a spanner on them whilst I do some socket twirling underneath. Rear Hatch hinges in primer...  ...and with a coat of (still wet) satin black.  New pulley mounted  And tank in place, albeit roughly...  |
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Jul 31, 2017 14:50:14 GMT
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More nice work , love this car it's gonna be
top drawer when finished
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2017 20:02:25 GMT by Mercdan68
Fraud owners club member
2003 W211 Mercedes E class
1989 Sierra sapphire
1998 ex bt fiesta van
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I have always wanted to rebuild a car; however next time I will choose one that hasn't sat for so long and has an engine and a usable interior... 
New ones are on order...
