spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 818
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Apr 25, 2024 14:14:55 GMT
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Is there nothing compatible from slightly later Hondas’? Or is the later sohc a completely different beast 🤔. I will say that it’s many years since I’ve had one of these in pieces.
Top marks for perseverance in the face of adversity 😎
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Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Apr 26, 2024 11:04:32 GMT
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Is there nothing compatible from slightly later Hondas’? Or is the later sohc a completely different beast 🤔. I will say that it’s many years since I’ve had one of these in pieces. Top marks for perseverance in the face of adversity 😎 Thanks for that I think I need it at the mo. I'm pretty sure there is no drop in solution as the EN4 engine from the acclaim is the drop in engine of choice for the mk 1 civic. So any of the engines with the gearbox on the drivers side would be the next easiest, an EP2 civic 1.6 at 109bhp in std trim would probably be my engine of choice, which would need engine mounts, drive shafts, ECU and complete rework on the gear shifter as it's cable shift. Right now and I want it on the road so I've got half a chance of getting the herald estate done before the end of the decade. Having said that, I like the fact it's still got it's original type engine, as the head is coming off I'll have another crack at flowing it. Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Apr 27, 2024 14:27:26 GMT
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Small update, all the bolts are here and look promising, I've fitted the new 5V reg and fixed a broken wire on the crank sensor plug, taken some data logs and everything looks good. Next up pulling the head off. But first I've got to get the jazz ready to collect a pile of spitfire engine parts tomorrow. Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Apr 27, 2024 19:59:47 GMT
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That wasn't as bad as I expected, a couple of hrs to get the head on the bench, the point of failure was fairly obvious. I got the head cleaned up and checked it over with a steel rule, only to find my steel rule, had more in common with a banana that a straight edge. With a straight, straight edge every thing looks great, I sought a second opinion from Barry who called it good too, along with the top of the block. Seeing as the head is off I thought ill see what sort of job I did on the head the first time, from the pics it left a lot to be desired. I'm amazed at the inlets, no lip and look pretty good, the short side radius has blended out well, the only thing I think I can improve is the tiny lip on the back of the valve, but I'm not sure if it's even worth it the exhaust was a lot harder to photograph as its been running on choke a lot. The seat is blended back in to the cylinder wall, but I reckon there is some room for improvement on the short side radius as it feels quite tight, if I opened it up a couple of millimetres, and blended it back in it should smooth the flow out. Opinions please. The head bolts look like they will fit straight in except for the one under the oil pump drive, that one will need a few mm taking off the top of the head as it turns out memories faded since I did this last, but I did buy enough head bolts so game on. Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Apr 27, 2024 20:12:59 GMT
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My plan, such that it is, is to cut a slot at 90 degrees to the CROWN of the short side radius with a hacksaw blade that has been marked at 2mm depth of cut so i don't go too deep. Take the top of CROWN off with a burr, then blend that back in.
If the short side radius was a 90 I'd be taking the tip into 2 to 45, then cutting them into 4 22.5s thoughts?
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2024 6:55:20 GMT by logicaluk
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The back cut on the valves is worth a bit at low lifts. The rest only a flow bench will tell you.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,699
Club RR Member Number: 39
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83 Triumph Acclaim, GAME ONDarkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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What have you taken the seat ID out to? No good doing any work in a port because the restriction is always the seat ID Measure first then Seat Valve Throat Port Typically in that order - page 10 of this thread has some notes, with a few more on page 6 and 7 of the flowbench thread.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Apr 28, 2024 14:40:17 GMT
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Once again, DarkSpeed hits the nail on the head. With fresh eyes and a DS's words ringing in my ears, I ventured out to the garage, lapped a pair of valves in and measured, and then kicked myself for being so daft. Yep there's plenty of room for improvement in the valve seats, inlets at 30.2mm exhausts at 26.5mm lapping the valves in showed about 2mm of unused valve seat. I need a valve seat cutting tool, scratch building one is beyond my skill set at the moment, but i have these which yields this which has a square hole in it that fits this Which means a trip to my mate's lathe, as mine's not going yet. For the square drive, turning down and the drill hole opening out to 1/4" to fit a cut down valve stem. Any better solutions? Dan
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2024 14:42:21 GMT by logicaluk
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,699
Club RR Member Number: 39
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83 Triumph Acclaim, GAME ONDarkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Apr 28, 2024 15:25:40 GMT
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Just remember you still need a transition from the seat to the throat.
Trying to explain it writing it is a PITA so this may not be easy to follow. As the seat is on an angle of 45 degrees a 1.5 wide seat takes up just over a 1 mm of seat diameter so if you then have 1.2mm of 60 degree that takes up even less diameter - 0.6mm
So from the 36mm diameter of valve - you take 0.5 x 2 1.2 x 2 and 0.6 x 2 - and that gives you a dimension for the inner diameter of the seat.
36 - 4.5 = 31.5 you could take the seat ID to 32 and still get the 45 and the 60 transition on there - but it will need care and accuracy.
As its the same width of seat for a small valve or big valve the bigger the valve the better the benefit.
On a small valve you could use 1.2mm for the 45 width and 1.0 for the 60 to tray and maximise what you can take the ID to.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Thanks DS, I think I follow you. To my untrained eye, the inlet looks pretty good, the exhaust however looks like it needs all the help it can get. I'll get out there and clean all the carbon off and have a proper look.
Having said that, I feel opening up the seats further with a new piece of home made tooling I haven't used before very risky, I don't want to damage this head in particular as it's had a lot of work done to it already.
Dan
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Last Edit: Apr 29, 2024 8:45:50 GMT by logicaluk
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,699
Club RR Member Number: 39
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83 Triumph Acclaim, GAME ONDarkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Do all the work on one that can be sacrificed unless fully confident in your abilities.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,316
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Last evening, I spent a few hours pretending to be a tool maker. Take one well worn, 1908 drummond B lathe, add a similarly worn Barry, first job was to make the drive shaft round as it was case hardened, we tickled it with a grinder. Center drilled it for a live centre, and turned it down. After selecting an appropriate drill bit one that should give a few thou interference fit, opened up the hole the drill bit went in to fit the cut off valve stem, which was pressed in on the big press, on the second attempt we had one with a straight valve stem. That looks like this. I'm not sure if I've chosen the correct cutting tool but there's another that looks promising in the box. Dan
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