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Jan 15, 2017 10:11:25 GMT
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I made a carbon roof in a day but have spent more time trying to decide on how to release the handbrake :-) The Rally Design unit is designed to be used in an exposed location, not covered by a console. The release is a simple latch that is lifted by hand. However it is inaccessible under the console. So I need to work out some kind of opperating mechanism that is accessible and neat. Simplest would be a rod and knob fitted vertically to one end of the latch, either to pull or push the latch. I also thought of a bowden cable strapped to the handle but this would have to be detatchable so the handle could be removed. Any ideas? Are there any such items already out there that I could adapt?
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Last Edit: Jan 15, 2017 10:12:21 GMT by nalesutol
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Jan 16, 2017 19:10:01 GMT
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Last Edit: Jan 16, 2017 19:12:58 GMT by nalesutol
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Jan 17, 2017 12:22:10 GMT
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I had planned to use rubber to seal around the handbrake lever. Then I remembered the piece I had trimmed off a new draught excluder I am fitting. It is made of bristles and could be perfect. Two longer pieces of course.
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Another on the hoof design change, this time to the centre console. I was having trouble tying the back section into the rear panel. The original plan was to have two sections but, on making the rear bit, it looked better to join it to the front part. The result will be a bit like a swan, all neat and tidy on top (the bit you can see) but more of a mess under the water (or, in this case, out of sight behind the seats). Photos show test fit and the joining flanges being glued on to the extension (the joint will be reinforced with carbon fibre tape). Most of the time will be spent hiding the joint.
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Jan 18, 2017 12:19:23 GMT
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Well, that was a bust. my LOCTITE HYSOL 9461A And 9461B Toughened 2 Component Epoxy Adhesive seems to have gone off. Should have reached handling strength after 4 hours. After 20 hours the carbon strips just pinged off with little resistance. Oh well, onwards and upwards. I was going to strenghten with carbon tape so just added an extra layer. The welding table doesn't get used for its intended purpose much but acts as a good flat plate.
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Last Edit: Jan 18, 2017 12:21:59 GMT by nalesutol
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2017 8:34:45 GMT by nalesutol
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I bet you thought long and hard about those extra weight fittings! Mind you, I suspect you have evolved the design to save weight elsewhere??
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Jan 20, 2017 11:11:01 GMT
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Adding the extra fittings hurt, I admit, but the flexible hose from the Holley lift pump was shortened slightly and the tank support brackets also had to be shortened, so that eased the pain a little :-)
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Jan 20, 2017 15:08:47 GMT
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I Knew it!!
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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Jan 21, 2017 10:52:55 GMT
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Loving the single-use ultra light fuel filler fittings!
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Loving the single-use ultra light fuel filler fittings! Fully adjustable in both length and diameter. Air gap relieves pressure build up in tank so no need for additional breather tube, more weight saving! Available with either grey or black gaffer tape.
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Jan 22, 2017 19:43:54 GMT
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Trying to make one roll of Earl's 1/2" aluminium fuel pipe do both feed and return was, in good ol' hindsight, a mistake as it has caused me a few issues with a messy, and heavy bodge the result. However, we are getting there. One problem I had was that there isn't a bulkhead fitting with a female end, so I have had to make one. The right hand one is the original male/male bulkhead fitting. It works, but isn't exactly pretty or light. The large red cylinder is an additional filter after the pumps, just in case.
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2017 22:18:48 GMT by nalesutol
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Jan 22, 2017 22:42:39 GMT
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Just finished reading the whole thread and its a really enjoyable build. Ive worked in composites for many years making parts for some of the top teams, its nice to see you trying out wetlay and prepreg. I would suggest from your photos you that you may be putting too much release agent on as theres streaks on your mould. You should use clean cloths and pour the agent into a clean cloth let it flash off and use another cloth to wipe any excess away but don't buff. Also keep an eye on chemical release agents as they go off pretty quickly. And lastly for bonding materials i use dp490 from 3m for a lot of carbon parts or you can even use windscreen sealant/bonder its pretty much what lotus used on there first chassis.
Keep up the good work!
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Jan 22, 2017 23:10:31 GMT
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Just finished reading the whole thread and its a really enjoyable build. Ive worked in composites for many years making parts for some of the top teams, its nice to see you trying out wetlay and prepreg. I would suggest from your photos you that you may be putting too much release agent on as theres streaks on your mould. You should use clean cloths and pour the agent into a clean cloth let it flash off and use another cloth to wipe any excess away but don't buff. Also keep an eye on chemical release agents as they go off pretty quickly. And lastly for bonding materials i use dp490 from 3m for a lot of carbon parts or you can even use windscreen sealant/bonder its pretty much what lotus used on there first chassis. Keep up the good work! Thanks for the tip re release agent. However, the streaks were probably when I used the blue/green stuff, which you brush on. I now use easycomposites release agent which requires 4-6 applications but is applied using a lint free cloth. I will be trying a layer of release wax on top of this when I attempt infusion. The streaks could also be shadows of the corex I use to form the shapes that the mould materials is laid on. As I am painting the carbon I haven't spent too much time perfecting the moulds, which results in a lot more tidying up of the carbon. Swings and roundabouts :-) As my carbon parts aren't for resale or on show the finish from the mould leaves a lot to be desired by CF purists but the finished product suits me :-) I did a lot of research on bonding adhesives but settled on easycomposite's VuduGlu. VM100 Black is a high strength, toughened methyl methacrylate structural adhesive which they recommended for my particular application. Resin Methyl Methacrylate Colour Dark Grey/Black Viscosity Brookfield T Bar 120,000 to 150,000cps Cure System Exothermic Open Time 7 Minutes @20°C Handling Strength 12 Minutes@ 20°C ASTM D1002 Lapshear Up to 30 Nmm² ASTM D638 Tensile Strength Up to 30 Nmm² Gap Fill 4mm Temperature Range -55°C to 120°C How does this compare to DP490? Thanks for the encouragement
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Below are some rough and ready CFD screenshots. It is only 2D so is, in effect, the air flow over the centre of the car and anything below the bumpers can be ignored. Confirms the location of low and high pressure areas (with the roof being particularly low) and that I need to redirect the flow from the rear of the roof downwards (vortex generators?), although there is a pressure increase above the wing. Angle of attack isn't zero, as stated on the graphs. The effect of the splitter is obvious. It looks like the roof is a good location for a cockpit vent. If I could get hold of a 3D file of the Elan I would be in heaven :-) Pressure baseline without rear wing: Pressure with rear wing added: Baseline airflow without rear wing: Airflow with rear wing added: This may be of use to you? hum3d.com/3d-models/vehicles/lotus/
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Jan 23, 2017 10:03:58 GMT
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Thanks for the link. It seems that they can supply the file in a format that allows modification, so all I would need is a 3D wind tunnel program that doesn't cost a fortune, ie free :-)
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Jan 26, 2017 11:56:55 GMT
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Not a lot going on at the moment. I couldn't find any male/female bulkhead fitting so they had to be made. Final setup looks a bit messy but all the connectors are necessary and kept to a minimum. Existing 11 litre fuel tank had fuel filler tube added plus a sender unit. An additional 22 litre tank was made to allow journeys of more than 1/4 mile. This will be fitted with quick release connectors. Filler cap had a filler tube attached, hopefully this will line up with the tank tube :-)
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Jan 26, 2017 12:55:13 GMT
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I'm new here, and signed up purely for threads like this. Mind-blowing.
Do you mind showing or explaining how you made the bulkhead fitting work? Please.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Jan 26, 2017 16:32:47 GMT
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I'm new here, and signed up purely for threads like this. Mind-blowing. Do you mind showing or explaining how you made the bulkhead fitting work? Please. Love to, but not sure what you mean by making the bulkhead fitting work?
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Last Edit: Jan 26, 2017 18:48:12 GMT by nalesutol
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