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Tweaked the passenger door so it fits the opening a litle better. Todo that I cut through the frame, twisted it, held it in place and carboned over the cuts. Look naff at the moment but I will trim it up once cured. With regard to the driver's door, I have worked out how to secure the base of the lexan window and made a couple of aluminium moulds which are at present covered in carbon and cooking at 120deg C. While that was going on I rumminated on how to fit the two parts of the door together. I think that I will butt join them with a 20mm carbon strip holding the two sections together. Watch this space :-)
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Last Edit: May 6, 2020 18:52:56 GMT by nalesutol
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,937
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Just wondering if you would share the material cost associated with making that carbon door?
I appreciate that time isn’t free neither is vacuum or heat but some idea of mold costs and carbon to make from mold would be really useful
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Just wondering if you would share the material cost associated with making that carbon door? I appreciate that time isn’t free neither is vacuum or heat but some idea of mold costs and carbon to make from mold would be really useful Ok Pattern is an open ended cost. This can be from nothing if, for example, you use an existing part like a bonnet, to many pounds depending on material used. Mould. This I make with a gel coat and 290g Plain Weave Woven Glass 1000mm Wide at £3.80/m2 and a high temp resin, which is more expensive than the standard stuff. On the moulds for the door I used approx 1kg of resin which is around £25. Standard resin would have cost around £13 I used 6 layers of fibreglass so around 3m2 so the cost is approx £23. Gel coat cost approx £20 I don't normally vacuum bag the moulds so this saves both time and money :-) Actual part. I used two layers of 200gm/m2 prepreg carbon for the doors. This is too little for a standard road car and I would recommend 4 layers as a minimum. Anyway, I used 2m2 of carbon on my door at a retail cost of around £130. My doors are small (approx 1m2 for both sides) so allow for 2-3 times this cost for a sturdy standard car door. Then there are the bagging materials. release film, breather cloth and vacuum bag. Cost approx £7 Release agent is used on both pattern and mould. Cost roughly £1 So, the total cost of my door is around £200 If interested, have a look at EasyComposites site at www.easycomposites.co.uk/I get all my supplies, apart from the prepreg carbon, from them and they are very helpful. Any questions, please ask. Steve
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Last Edit: May 6, 2020 21:56:12 GMT by nalesutol
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For better or for worse, the Elan is now officially a FHC.
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Last Edit: May 7, 2020 18:21:22 GMT by nalesutol
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,033
Club RR Member Number: 77
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That doesnt sound at all how I expected a carbon fibre roof to
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That doesnt sound at all how I expected a carbon fibre roof to Ok, what did you expect it to sound like? Bear in mind that this is just two layers of 200gm carbon, so approx 0.5mm thick :-)
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,937
Club RR Member Number: 71
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That doesnt sound at all how I expected a carbon fibre roof to Ok, what did you expect it to sound like? Bear in mind that this is just two layers of 200gm carbon, so approx 0.5mm thick :-) I'm assuming not like "carbon" Steel
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Ok, what did you expect it to sound like? Bear in mind that this is just two layers of 200gm carbon, so approx 0.5mm thick :-) I'm assuming not like "carbon" Steel I hear what you mean :-)
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,927
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I wasn't expecting that either.
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Internal door skin glued on. Needs to be trimmed and excess glue removed but the door is coming together. I estimate that the door should top out at just under 2.2kg.
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May 11, 2020 17:51:56 GMT
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Last Edit: May 11, 2020 17:53:58 GMT by nalesutol
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May 11, 2020 18:48:22 GMT
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Passenger door now has all its parts. 2.1kg, 1kg heavier than the driver's door which is 100% carbon. Just sitting in the hole with no hinges or locks.
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Last Edit: May 11, 2020 18:49:50 GMT by nalesutol
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May 11, 2020 20:23:59 GMT
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Sometimes you have to buy something just for one job. Having trimmed the door hinges I needed to clean up the threads. I didn't have a 3/4" 16tpi tap, but I have now :-) OEM hinges weigh a total of 930gms, these now weigh 351gms, over 1/2 kg saving just on these small items.
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May 13, 2020 17:22:24 GMT
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May 14, 2020 14:23:30 GMT
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May 15, 2020 20:46:32 GMT
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It sometimes feels that I am working in a fog, but I didn't realise that it would show up in a video! :-) Apologies for the poor quality. I have run it through an online enhancer, hence the watermark in the corner, so it is better than it was.
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Last Edit: May 15, 2020 20:54:15 GMT by nalesutol
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May 16, 2020 12:00:15 GMT
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Last Edit: May 16, 2020 12:00:50 GMT by nalesutol
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May 18, 2020 22:50:47 GMT
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Finally started the job I have been thinking about for over a year and not been looking forward to tackling, door window frames. Made the second frame yesterday and started on the fitting process. I have no idea how I am going to secure it as it needs to be pretty rigid, so I am just going for it and will see how it pans out.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,937
Club RR Member Number: 71
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May 18, 2020 23:52:31 GMT
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Interested on how you do this
My long term project is a frameless window 2 door coupe and it's going to end up as a track car and I really want to perspex the windows to lose weight as a result I need to frame the doors or the windows are going to open out at speed (glass obviously doesn't)
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