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Showed my effort to my prepreg supplier's tech rep and discussed the merits of 3 layers of 200gms compared to one layer of 200 and one layer of 400 for the roof as I don't think two layers of 200gm will be enough. He replied:
"That door looks really good and the weight is perfect, a 1kg door is impressive. The dull finish actually makes it easier to paint – chasing a high gloss finish is actually something of a fallacy unless the part is on display with no laquer.
3 x 200gsm will actually give more stiffness than 1x 200 and 1x 400 gsm – although there’s not a huge amount in it"
Made me feel a whole lot better :-) Onward and upward with attempting to remove the mould from the roof.
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2020 9:13:32 GMT by nalesutol
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Apr 23, 2020 13:29:51 GMT
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Tackled removing the roof mould this morning. I was expecting the usual sh1tfight but was pleasantly surprised. Took 45 minutes.
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2020 7:24:30 GMT by nalesutol
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Apr 23, 2020 14:46:47 GMT
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The eagle eyed, mould experienced guys amongst you will probably have noticed my schoolboy mistake. I was so worried that the mould would be a curse word to get off that I forgot about drilling holes for the attachment bolts used to join the two parts together. You drill these BEFORE you remove the mould to ensure that the two or more parts re-assemble correctly. Wally of the first order. However, the saving grace is that, as the mould came off so cleanly, I was able to re-attach it to the roof and drill the holes. Phew!
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Apr 23, 2020 22:57:10 GMT
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2020 22:57:34 GMT by nalesutol
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Apr 24, 2020 18:49:49 GMT
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If I never see another Elan door mould it will a lifetime too early :-) This door has 47 pieces (which include strengthening plates for hinges etc) and I have just laid up the first of two layers. Trying to stick carbon to a surface that is treated with release agent is no simple task when you have a lot of angles to contend with. Lots of heat gun action was required.
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Apr 25, 2020 21:07:38 GMT
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Door carcus came out of the mould pretty easily, mainly due to it being rather flimsy :-) I just may have overdone it this time. However, I will reserve judgement until it is married to the front skin. Torsionally it is pretty good, mainly due to the steps along the edges so I think it will work........fingers crossed because it weighs as close to nothing as is humanly possible, IMHO. So far, the two pieces add up to 909gms. Factor in joining material and glue, less a hole for hinge access but plus additional stiffening in hinge areas, I reckon is will end up around 1.1 - 1.2kg. Not to be sniffed at. Grey marks caused by paint pulled off of the mould surface. Not a problem as it will be painted.
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2020 21:08:36 GMT by nalesutol
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Apr 25, 2020 21:13:57 GMT
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Right, looking for some help. Plan to use CarBuilderSolutions' Mini Bear 75mm Claw Door Latches. Before I reinvent the wheel, I want to pick your brains or check that someone hasn't already sorted a solution. I need to activate the latch from the outside but the lever works at 90 degrees to the door button movement. I have worked out how to do it using a lever and fulcrum, but this problem must have surfaced before. Is there an off the shelf adaptor or, failing that, plans for an adapter out there? Oh, and before anyone mentions it, yes, they are in need of a visit from my lightening tools :-)
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2020 21:34:59 GMT by nalesutol
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Have a look on my website www.hotrodphotos.co.uk for a write up for fitting those bear claws, might be of help.
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Apr 26, 2020 10:02:24 GMT
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Had a look at your youtube channel, what are the chances of an indepth step by step of making the mould for a larger part - door, wing, roof etc with all the prep stages up to the final production? Now that I would be really interested in to learn from your experiences, and I'm sure many others would be too!
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Apr 26, 2020 19:44:41 GMT
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Had a look at your youtube channel, what are the chances of an indepth step by step of making the mould for a larger part - door, wing, roof etc with all the prep stages up to the final production? Now that I would be really interested in to learn from your experiences, and I'm sure many others would be too! I have thought about that, but that takes a lot more preparation and time. What I could do is a thread on here using the photos I have taken. Also, there are a lot of YouTube videos detailing exactly that, and their work is a much better than mine.
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Last Edit: Apr 26, 2020 19:45:33 GMT by nalesutol
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Apr 26, 2020 19:55:11 GMT
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Have a look on my website www.hotrodphotos.co.uk for a write up for fitting those bear claws, might be of help. Thanks for that. I will plough through the photos later. You didn't have a lot of car to start with :-) Unfortunately, you are using a turning handle and I will be using a push button.
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Apr 26, 2020 22:22:17 GMT
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I'm sure with a suitable shaped intermediate lever/fulcrum you can make it work.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,928
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 26, 2020 22:50:38 GMT
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How much travel is needed on the lever to release the catch? Could you just have a hole in the door so you can poke the end of your finger through and pop it? Would be the lightest solution.
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How much travel is needed on the lever to release the catch? Could you just have a hole in the door so you can poke the end of your finger through and pop it? Would be the lightest solution. That is not the daftest idea :-) Another idea I have thought about is a rod welded to the lever that just pokes through the door . It has to move less than 10mm so would only need a short slot. I could even make a neat little recessed slot so the lever doesn't protrude. And, as you say, lighter :-) Hmmmmm, got me thinking :-)
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Isn't a hole the lightest material known to man?
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,928
Club RR Member Number: 174
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The other option I can think of would be a fixed rod going towards the rear of the door into the door jam, then a small cutaway section of the door or rear quarter panel so you pull/push it to open.
Or thinking on the fly - what about welding a slotted 'receiver' onto the actuation arm, then make a thick 'key' that can go on your keyrings. Have a hole in the door with a solid grommet (sliced vertically in centre) then you can put the key in and twist and it'll do the latch. Would look more legit incase any scallywags are watching.
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Apr 27, 2020 10:14:10 GMT
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Isn't a hole the lightest material known to man? Only if you extract all of the air :-)
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Apr 27, 2020 14:14:27 GMT
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Proof of concept. Initially it was hard to actuate the latch. However, the fulcrum joint was very sloppy, tightening this up made a hell of a difference and it now works pretty well. Probably remove the fulfrum pin and replace with a nut and bolt.
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Last Edit: Apr 27, 2020 17:13:00 GMT by nalesutol
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,034
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Apr 27, 2020 18:23:48 GMT
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Isn't a hole the lightest material known to man? Only if you extract all of the air :-) Surely it depends how the hole is kept in place and what fixtures it needs to stay there
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