Tell me about the Eaton M112 Supercharger and using on carbs

Nope, I ditched the EFI bits as Dave says.

They're vac actuated I think, certain are on a Mini. If the stock one used some odd electronic control, I dare say it was also vac actuated but got the signal from the ECU, rather than physically and was actuated using 12v signal.

I know you're trying to simplify it by keeping it carb, but you're really not, you're making it a lot harder for yourself.

I'm sure the Jaguar bypass is vacuum operated, my Jaguar M90 throttle body stuff has a vacuum bypass built in.

Best thing by far is to ditch the dizzy and go coilpack, Megajolt would work well, not sure about Nodiz if that can handle positive manifold pressures happily? Or go all out and buy something like a Megasquirt ecu, even if you only use the ignition side of things and keep the carbs? Seriously leaving the distributer on will make it a right dog of a runner, the advantage of fully mappable coilpack ignition is that you can run healthy advance off boost for economy/driveability and then it retards however much you want as the boost builds. Really really really get rid of the distributer....

Also ditch the 2" SU's, you'll struggle to get the needles right, then you'll run the risk of blowing the fuel line from the float chamber to the venturi off, very high risk of catastrophic fire there. Find a pair of stock RV8 HIF44's and fit the turbo seals and needles, job done.

With the fuel and ignition sorted all you've got to do is mount the blower any way it would fit, turn the key and drive. Doing it any other way I see you being stuck struggling with something that doesn't work, and if/when it did work, would have it's wiped clean by a bog standard 3.9efi.

You'll want the Malpassi fuel regulator that Dave Dorson mentioned and a high pressure fuel pump, Bosch 044 etc with fuel return line. To make the carbs work under pressure the fuel pressure must remain about 3-4psi above atmospheric or boost pressure, so if the supercharger was to pump 10psi into your V8, you'll need the fuel pressure to be 13-14psi. I don't know how well an external float SU carb would handle that, I was getting some of the dashpot oil pushed out at 10psi boost and a slight weep from the HIF44 base seal at the bottom of the float chamber.

Seriously HIF44's are proven to work, and I've been told a single SU can handle 200bhp, standard Maestro turbo was about 150bhp. Have a pair of them and in theory you've got the fueling capability to support 350-400bhp on the Rover V8 using a standard intake manifold

I'd not suggest using a chamber though, it's old hat and only any good for really low boost.

I think because you were going to go for draw through the SU's were a good choice, but as mentioned, they do leak if you try and put boost through them, through the spindles and probably blow all the oil out the dash pots.

An RR FRP will help, you do want an EFI pump and I'd suggest a swirl pot too, you'll want to modify your carbs to allow return if they don't already do so (I know not all do) Something like a Bosch pump suggested will do fine, or modify for an in tank one if you want to do away with the swirl. Those pumps don't like to run dry, so I'd suggest you use the other one as a lift pump.

Metro Turbo carbs were configured for blow through, but if you get the right manifold, you can open up to other options too, I'd not discredit using something else carb wise.

If you decide to sell your existing SU's, you'll get a decent amount back I expect.

And if you're junking the dizzy to go with coilpacks and some sort of trigger for that, you're half way to EFI anyway, which even if you do boost on carbs, you'll end up doing when you don't get the results you wanted .

I will bear all these points in mind. Thanks guys.

There seem plenty of people running them in Aus as draw through on dedicated LPG, not one I could find has mentioned problems with the coatings.

That is surprising, given that LPG is meant to be slightly more abrasive and have almost no lubricating properties (which is meant to be the reason for the former point).

Interesting thread!

I was considering supercharging my Daimler 2.5 V8 with draw through a Weber DCOE. However I worry about backfiring and the possible damages. I am removing the dizzy by using a programmable ignition only ECU. My plan was to use a Eaton M62. I did the calculations according to Corky Bells book and found that I would be able to run 9 psi before the intake charge became too hot. At that pressure I should be seeing close to 220BHP. To keep charge temps low I could considering methanol/water injection to cool the supercharger, but haven't looked into it enough to answer any questions yet.

I have spoken to a gentleman in the UK running a M62 with Weber DCOE draw through on a 2 liter Bristol engine and he has run 10.000km without any problems.

Here is my thread asking for advice regarding Eaton draw through - retrorides.proboards.com/thread/172311/petrol-eaton-supercharger