4ever 4 ..from NZ
enough of that,back to the thread at hand...Your modified head is NOT going to work.buy another.
What you have done is removed the QUENCH area. a fatal mistake.
Also ,your relieving WAS a good idea back in the 40's ,and even Ford did it to the V8's used in bren Gun carriers .
It was finally exposed as a waste of time by Rod and Custom magazine around 1969 0r 1970 that it actually costs power.
You lower the compression so far that no amount of head planing will raise the compression ratio back to stock.
The HOT set up is to relieve the block around the intake only.1/8 th inch max.
Do your self a big favour,get a peice of perspex,drill a hole in it .get a piston ,pop it into the block and seal around the edges with peice of plasticine .Place valves in the pockets and seal them. get a used head gasket and stick it on the block.
Seal around the combustion chambers,place the perspex on the gasket on top of the block (which has been set level ).Get a large graduated syringe from a Chemist shop or chemical supply place.Using 'auto trans fluid' measure how much fluid it takes to fill up the combustion area of the block.
Do this to each chamber.The largest reading is the limit you work to.
When marking cast iron get a 3 cornered ( triangular ) file and sharpen the end on a grinder,Use this as a scriber.A really fine line is what you want to make.
Scribe around the intake valve seat ,then across the block in a straight line to the bore.That is your limit to remove.
the depth as I said should only be a MAX. of 1/8th ".
do one cylinder ,measure it with your syringe and perspex.
note the reading.Do each cylinder in turn.
Note: while doing this the old gasket remains in place to prevent grinding a hole in the deck.
Now ,do the valve seats.i notice you have a good vernier.Check the heights of each valve head againt the deck height.keep a note of each reading.If the seats are good and don't need cutting,( highly unusual if the seats are good) ,lap them in and use the lapping process to each valve head
exactly the same height.Now,recheck your combustion area volumes.
Buy some cheap grind stones and a electric drill and even up ALL the combustion areas.You want all valves to seat the same height,you NEED all the combustion chambers to measure the same size.
Now,if you have listened to me,you will have some stones, so check the size of the intake and exhaust ports against your manifolds.get both identical then you can grind away in the ports to your hearts contant.There was never any flow work done that I know of on a 1172 ,just a propensity by racers to just hog them out.
Your timing chain in the pics is shyte.throw it away.
before you do the next step you need to get the bottom end done.The oil pumps are simple and can be recoed,so get it done.
Mains are white metal and I understand there are few places in the UK to get them done.Don't waste time by trying to not do it.
With mains and big ends reconditoned,install the pistons without rings.
measure the height of the top of the piston against the top of the block (deck height) .All four pistons must be the same height.
now,we come to the important bit.
you need Quench to make power.
to increase power you need to decrease the area above the piston by increasing the height the piston is in the block quench area.
if all pistons are with 0001 " ,all is well .if not you may have to turn the tops of each piston until all are equal.
With your old gasket in place you want the tops of the pistons to extend beyond the top of the bore.10 to 20 thou max is a common factor.
This entails machining the difference from the block.
As I said,your machined head is now scrap.it will never make power.A 100E head is the last itteration of the type and although it has biggerchambers it is a better design.You will,by now have enough data to tell you what volume of combustion area is available with a squashed gasket ( that's why I said to use an old gasket).Use your perspex metod to measure each combustion chamber,with your drill and grind stones get each chamber to the same size.Adding the volume of the head chambers to the block chambers will now tell you how much volune you have in a combustion chamber. you can also use this info to calculate your static comp.ratio.
The results will surprise you.
if it's too low ,you can now accurately determine how much to machine off the head to raise it.
A small ford doesn'tjhave much power to start with so when you want to modify it you have try a LOT harder to achieve anything substantial.
You can further improve matters by balancing the bottom end .
Dial in your cam correctly ( I have done this on a standard 100E and found the timing was miles out) .
Also the valve spring and retainer come out in one unit,You pull the top retainer put and lever the whole thing up from the bottom.
If you know any hot rodders who have S.V.V8's ,they use the same valve tool .
An Aquaplane head is a good idea too.
Some where I have a pic of turbo model T ,taken about 1973 I thnk,so it can be done with some effort.the old judson supercharger for Prefects is the way to go.
A good book to find is that one about Ford Specials,I think it was called " Building the 1172 special " or something like that.
Old gaskets...don't thow them away,you can get a shallow pan,fill it with oil,engine oil or cooking oil,it don't matter.heat the oil and place the gasket in it,let it heat up to approx 160 C .Cook for aboout 4-5 minutes.You can now reuse the gasket.
if you know some one with a laser cutter,get shim gaskets made from copper as a way of increasing compression without gasket blowing problems.