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Cool!
As you've got a spare cylinder head, it might be worth hacksawing half a combustion chamber off, then you can see how it sits over the cylinder and valves.
This will help you see where the flow is good or bad - be careful when skimming the head that you don't shroud the valves too much with the top of the combustion chamber.
It's got to be worth a 'saved search' on ebay for period tuning books or magazines? Just to throw an idea in, do you think there's room for a second spark plug in that combustion chamber?
Gareth
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klunk
Part of things
1949 Rover P3 V8
Posts: 371
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Looking Gooood.
I shall see you tonight at the club. I assume you'll be bringing various 'bits' for working on!
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Will be watching with interest.
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Yup that's the plan. Need to press the dizzy out one of my other heads but I think it's broken from too much tapping Was going to do the head myself last week but Paul's 12" flycutter looks far too scary for me since I haven't used a mill for a few years. I'll get Bob to tackle that for me. Gareth that's a great idea, I might think about that if I can't work it out with a steel rule and vernier. The good thing is the shape of the combustion chamber. Like I said it doesn't recess back too much when you machine it like the 100E head does.
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Jul 10, 2007 10:08:22 GMT
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Stuff like this makes me warm inside
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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Jul 10, 2007 11:12:39 GMT
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Stuff I had done when Engineering was older: If you've got time on your hands you can make a little cast of one of the combustion chambers from silicon or something. Then do a reverse mould so you've got the cylinder head, but mould it in a clear material so you can see inside. Then you can put it on, turn the engine by hand and see how clearances are, and as I said it helps to visualise the flow. Chopping a head up can work well, but if the combustion chamber is a funny shape you've got to be careful to cut the right bit away so it's useful. A clear mould gets around this. And if you don't fancy a twin plug head, low compression would suit a supercharger of course
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2007 11:15:20 GMT by garethj
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Jul 10, 2007 11:57:33 GMT
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Excellent. I'm really into old engines in old cars right now, so maybe i should watch and learn here
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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Jul 10, 2007 12:06:58 GMT
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Stuff I had done when Engineering was older: If you've got time on your hands you can make a little cast of one of the combustion chambers from silicon or something. Then do a reverse mould so you've got the cylinder head, but mould it in a clear material so you can see inside. Then you can put it on, turn the engine by hand and see how clearances are, and as I said it helps to visualise the flow. Chopping a head up can work well, but if the combustion chamber is a funny shape you've got to be careful to cut the right bit away so it's useful. A clear mould gets around this. And if you don't fancy a twin plug head, low compression would suit a supercharger of course These are luckily quite simple shaped with vertical walls and the early head is just a shallower version of the later chamber, but it's amazing because I used to do the whole silicon thing when I worked at Dyson and it's I totally forgot about it until you just mentioned it. Thanks for reminding me is what I think I'm trying to say I'd love to have my own mill because I'd just carve some stuff out of a chunk of ally and experiment. Then you can get exactly the shape you want. Then when I have something that works really well I could just model it up, have a small run CNC'd and sell them.
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Jul 10, 2007 18:03:09 GMT
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Great work,.. dare I ask,.. have you contacted the Side Valve Owners Club for technical info on the engine?? I tried getting spares from them but they never replied to any of my contact. As for tech I didn't bother theres a guy just down the road whos is high up in the sidevalve club. talking to him on the phone, he wasn't too bothered about me stuffing a BMW engine into my prefect. but he wouldn't come and take a look at some bits (hard to come by and cheap!) when I was selling stuff off. they seem to be a little lax on the communication side. I know a guy who used to work for small ford spares (he still uses the van?!?!) but i think i've lost his number now. god i'm a great help anyway, that looks to be a good recipe for a flatty , watch you don't break the gearbox next!
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tharg
Part of things
Posts: 313
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Jul 10, 2007 20:49:01 GMT
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::)very interesting stuff some of this is beyond my limited technical skillz but is very inspiring
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,685
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Jul 10, 2007 21:37:26 GMT
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At last someone doing the right thing and sticking with a proper old skool modded engine in an old skool car. Strange how tuning retro car's original engines is so out of fashion, its all bloody 16 valves now! Can't wait to see the finished engine, this was just the inspiration I needed to stick with my old motor and tune it 60's style. Good Job
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Jul 10, 2007 22:37:12 GMT
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Johnny, you are officially a pukka hot rodder! That old speed equipment is fantastic plus the engineering approach to 'have a look and see what can be improved' is what being British and owning a shed is all about.
Also, top marks for calling a rule a rule. Not a flipping ruler, that's the Queen's job. All rise. ;D
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Peugeot 307sw - Suzuki SV650S - MX5.
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Jul 10, 2007 22:48:48 GMT
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The queen would approve of this engine build ;D
Broke my first rather important component this evening. Pics to follow tomorrow...
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First mechanical disaster I was trying to get the distributor out but it was stuck fast. The securing screw was a slotted screw and it was rusted in so because it's now a spare head I drilled the top off the screw. Still couldn't get the dizzy to move so did the routine of dousing it in WD40, wriggled it, nothing, more WD, tappity tap tap with a clubhammer, bit more tapping and it appeared to come free but was a bit wobbly and I still couldn't pull it out the head. Last night I resorted to a hydraulic press. Juts as well I did because it was pump pump pump, any minute now, pump pump pump, oh come on pleeeeaaaase... pump pum*BANG!* and it shifted about 3mm. Then pump pump pump *BANG*, pump pump pump *BANG* and it finally dropped out. As I suspected I broke the casing from tapping it a bit too keenly: So I won't jolly pain in the backside about with the other one, I'll just put it straight on the press Shame because this is a good dizzy and the other one will need the guts transferring from this one.
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2007 11:06:36 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 11, 2007 10:30:36 GMT
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Ooops! Have you tried getting a warranty repair from Ford? And chuck the WD40 away - you want Plusgas, you do
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Jul 11, 2007 11:38:19 GMT
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Sh!t! hope the other one work ok.
Question: Your sig says that the pop put out "30hp@4500rpm, 35ft/lbs torque" I guess these are standard figures from the factory, what kind of power can (and will you) be expecting from a performance rebuild on an engine this old?
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Jul 11, 2007 12:22:17 GMT
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Dunno really, not much Looking for about 50% more power and more revs. Want to be able to hit 6000rpm which should be quite attainable, crank is safe (alledgedly) up to 7000rpm and at 6000rpm I don't see why 45hp wouldn't be possible. With the cam and flow work it'll be more power across the whole rev range so it'll be a much more versatile engine than it is now.
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ratty
Part of things
Posts: 257
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Jul 11, 2007 12:30:16 GMT
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Ditch the dizzy and megajolt it
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madmart
Part of things
love is: valvebounce in top gear
Posts: 559
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ive got a spare thats missing its drive dog if its any use?
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Awesome project, I can't wait to hear what sort of results are achived
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