foxy99
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Posts: 1,457
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Oct 11, 2024 19:21:18 GMT
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Well. After all my work I'm pretty deflated as the inner-sill is back in but something's not right I've been super-careful about alignment and measuring [plus spent a lot of time yesterday making sure the sill was straight on all planes as welding the long strips on to renew the flange(s) obviously required a long line of weld and - despite doing it in several sessions - there must have been some distortion due to stresses/strains/heat and I dressed this all out] and was constantly checking the bit at the end where the top of the sill meets the outrigger meets the door-pocket. There was no more checking I could possibly do so I welded the sill in today and now, with hands free, checked again and again why there's a gap between it and the outrigger. Or if you align the outrigger with the sill there's a gap between that and the door-bin. I could re-attach the outrigger then force the sill up to meet it but if the sill is bent then it won't meet the centre-sill properly. I was hoping to get that spot & plug-welded in today. I dug-out my spot-welder the other day and spent a few hours wiring it directly into the mains (30amp fuse) and making sure the arms and electrodes were adjusted properly and had nice clean tips on them. It's working fine and so much quicker-easier to do than normal welding. Anyway I can't proceed any further till I work out how to get round this issue. It's probably got something to do with the sagging/jacking issue detailed recently. It looks like something has been jacked a 1cm too high up but that's unlikely as the floor-support is in exactly the same place it was before and the panel below it is deep and vertical and can't really bend upwards. I'm going to need to do a lot of measuring within the car and on the half-Imp to see if I can find any answer. The whole lot might need to come back out and start again but I think that's unlikely. Basically I decided to abandon it early this evening and go home and watch the Croatia-Scotland game - then realised that's on tomorrow inner-sill back in rear-end tied in if outrigger is aligned with sill (orange dots) spots from outrigger to floor-support don't meet also rear of outrigger should follow horizontal plane of sill this is better illustrated in this pic also when outrigger and sill meet outrigger is too low on door-pocket if outrigger is up at original position with door-bin and floor-support panel it doesn't meet sill
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Last Edit: Oct 11, 2024 19:27:05 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Oct 12, 2024 19:22:18 GMT
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Ok. So after losing way to much sleep over this I think I decided last night to weld things in so the inner-sill and outrigger are matched which will then mean the centre-sill will go on straight and I can worry about the outrigger-to-bin joint another day. I may actually move over to the other side of the car now and see what I can learn there (taking more measurements before I start) then come back to this side in a few weeks. As a bit of respite from the body i thought I better get back to the engine. The plan was, after all, the get that running and on a trailer then take it back to from where I bought the Imp and hopefully glean a little more info from folks who were connected with it. What's stopping me from doing so? Well the starter was never finished. I had the end-float issue, the cracked nylon terminal-post insulator issue and the loose tape on the windings issue. I've actually found a couple of sources for the plastic/nylon insulator but it's about £15 after P&P which seems a bit much when I could probably get away with just gluing it back together. I saw a NOS 'sundries' kit for Lucas starters on Ebay and hoped the thing might be in there along with shims/washers for the end-float. The kit seems to have loads of bit in it that are definitely not on my (M35G) starter but the Lucas catalogue I got recently confirms this is the correct sundry kit for my starter so for £5 (plus £6 P&P) I thought it would be worth a try. Anyway the kit arrived and there is no plastic bit in it but there are loads of washers. Today (I cba dismantling the starter to compare the washers) but I did have the old armature to hand and tried all the washers on both ends to see what looked/felt right. There were only 2 possibilities for one end but the other had several with same ID but varying ODs. I don't think they are .'. all for this application. When I go to glue the insulator together (or splash-out on a new one) I'll be able to compare the possible candidates in the kit with the originals what's in the NOS Lucas boxit's one kit of sundriesother end tells you the same but has another numbersideeverything seemed to be so organised in the old daysa lot of stuff in the boxapart from the CSK Philips screws nothing looks familiarfound 2 washers/shims that may be for this end of armatureand several possibles for the other endpanels coming together fine at O/S sill rear-endhope to use this on the sills don't know where these gaps came fromdoesn't really look like it belongs on this car but is identical to original
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Last Edit: Oct 12, 2024 20:42:38 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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So. Almost nothing done since last post (3 weeks-ish) apart from I have ordered the inner-sill for the LHS and a floor-edge for the RHS. Think it came to £176 for those including the shipping and they should arrive in a few weeks. The company seemed to think I'd made a mistake in my order and quoted me for 2 floor-edges than the guy phoned a few days ago to check I really wanted a left for one panel and a right for the other. I've ordered the inner-sill as the one on the left looks worse than the one I just repaired on the right and that took a lot of time up. My intention is to buy full floor-halves but I thought I'd have a go with the cheaper floor-edge panel just to see how I got on. In the last post I was talking about the spot-welder and I manged to reach a couple of bits on the sill with it and it really is great to use but without spending a fortune on different arms I won't ba able to reach the bottom edge so have drilled it for plug-welds, I may actually be able to reach it if I could the old floor-edge away but didn't want to do that till the new panel arrives. In other news however I have brought the half-Imp shell to the barn from my lock-up. This took up the best part of the weekend as I had to get the trailer fit for the (short) journey. The tailgate was seized and there were no lights and it was full of soil and weeds. The Gaffer doesn't look after anything he owns. I remember when he got it it was fully-functional with integral lights n stuff. Now it has no lights and the floor is much and the mudguards are held on with bits of wire. I've also never towed a trailer of this size and definitely never reversed one like it. It all went well considering the whole 'rig' is over 30' long and I had to reverse it round 2 bends to get out of the lock-ups. membrane-sill drilled to plug-weld it to inner-sill top of (repaired)inner-sill spot-welded to membrane-sill bringing the half-Imp (back) down to the barn this should yield better wheel-tubs and rear crossmember panel half-Imp tucked inside after a bit of shuffling around Lonesome George and a little trailer outside for the afternoon whilst making room
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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So. I got started on forensics on the half-Imp last night I'm basically scraping off everything that isn't original to see what condition the wing is in before I remove it. I'm removing it to get in at the wheel-tub and also as a practise-run for taking the same part off the pick-up as I want to cut it at the trim-line and haven't done that before. I took the full rear wing off this half-shell years ago which was fine but as I don't want to disturb the special pick-up parts of my shell and the top of the wing is hidden by that I want to cut right along where the stainless-steel trim goes and am not sure where is best to cut it at the front/B-pillar. The LHS wing had had a replacement arch brazed to it so I expected this one to be the same but it seems it's all original. This is a bit of a bummer as I currently have 1 arch-repair panel and it's for the RHS. Would have been much better if it was for the LHS. So, back to the scraping. As well as the various patches of random colours on the wing, from when I was testing my spray-gun fan, it seems to have been re-painted in its original Loch Blue twice. But most none of the original blue remains where someone it way prior to a heavy filler-job with yellow primer on top. Strange as this featured on the Loch Blue spare bonnet I have and they weren't from same car. Anyway. Underneath it all is the original arch which is a bit corroded and dented. The car also had new sills on it at some time so the filler will have been used to blend that into the bottom of the wing. I have not yet uncovered this tho. removing the door striker as I may be cutting here top of wing is original paint removing filler and newer paint confusing here as we seem to have Rootes style red primer over Rootes Loch Blue top-coat no repair panel under the filler
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Nov 20, 2024 22:20:31 GMT
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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So almost another week vanishes with nothing done on the Imp and too much done for other people Not sure which day to start the moaning at but Wednesday sounds about right as I was at the barn part of Tuesday (after abandoning a job due to freezing temps). Wed to Fri I worked for my mate. Well, more accurately, I worked to make him money and he curse word off home to play with his cats or whatever. Final straw for me was Friday about 3pm he turns up strutting about in his clean clothes telling me to leave what I was doing and go to two more house to put up 'a shelf' or 'a blind'. I get home after 7pm, having had a Snickers to eat all fkn day, after putting up 2 roller-blinds, a huge mirror with 8mm plugs, a floating shelf with 10mm-plugged steel-rod supports (one of which got stuck in wrong place on wall and I had no tools to get it back out and put in right place), a baby-gate plus a half hour wasted opening a flat-pack that he's meant to be doing another day and discussing a unit he built for the customer that she doesn't think is right. My Friday night was ruined and I was still mulling it over at about 3am into Saturday and was thinking for the £320 I got for the 3 days I could 'turn my frown upside down' by blowing the cash on the Imp panels mentioned above. I may still do that. Anyway. After wasting Saturday taking parcels to a mate then returning all the tools from Friday to the other mate and going to pay my barn-rent it was dark and freezing and wet so I fkd off home. Sunday I was back to do the job abandoned on Tuesday So today (Monday afternoon) I got back to the Imp. I wanted to continue removing the rear wing without wrecking the flanges. 1st problem was finding a drill-bit sharp enough and wasting ages trying to sharpen various ones with my 'Tommy from the TV' endorsed drill-sharpener. I basically drilled the spots at the rear vertical flange than the ones at the B-post and had to deal with some lead-loading then cut it where the old sill-repairs are at the bottom of the B-post, By this time it was dark and freezing and I threw in the towel but it's vital to get something done every day, to keep the project moving, so I feel it wasn't a completely wasted day need to find the spots at B-pillarlead-loading at swage-line area complicated thingsthink I got them allcan cut the sill part anywhere really as bottom of wing isn't originalmy work area just now
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,457
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Nov 27, 2024 23:57:43 GMT
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Well this is taking longer than I expected but I guess being interrupted by work and sub-zero temps are an almost valid excuse. Whatever the case I got back on it this afternoon and after the inevitable false-spots & untraceable spots were dealt with I got the leading-edge of the wing free without too much carnage to the flange. Where the sill-repairs met the floor/arch etc I ended up making more random cuts as it seems that parts of the repairs were welded further in - to the top of the original sill perhaps. Once the leading-edge and front-bottom of the wing were flapping free I moved to the arch. For years (decades even) I've envisaged separating the spots on inner & outer arches thinking it couldn't be done as the arches are invariably the rustiest bit on a car and there would be no strength in the metal to centre-punch the spots and/or force the drill against. Well. As said earlier this arch isn't bad considering the nick of the bottom of the wing and I did drill a lot of spots on it last week but I thought there would be no chance of separating the flanges easily and it was dark & freezing so I was ready to give up and go home to listen to the Champions League. I persevered however and started making some real progress. As usual the spots were putting up a good fight but I found that instead of drilling even more holes I could tickle away any tricky bits with a burr in the Dremel. I got to the halfway mark before binning it to head home and listen to the (Celtic Club Brugge) game but it's definitely a mojo-boost as I'll get the wing off at next visit and can start repairing the inner-wheelarch. Which will also act as a guide to the shape of the mostly-missing inner flange on the other side. sliding hacksaw blade between flanges to see if there are spots in the wayfinally some movement at swage-line on B-postusing Dremel to deal with missed spotswheelarch flanges starting to separate
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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