foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,452
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Oct 11, 2024 19:21:18 GMT
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Well. After all my work I'm pretty deflated as the inner-sill is back in but something's not right  I've been super-careful about alignment and measuring [plus spent a lot of time yesterday making sure the sill was straight on all planes as welding the long strips on to renew the flange(s) obviously required a long line of weld and - despite doing it in several sessions - there must have been some distortion due to stresses/strains/heat and I dressed this all out] and was constantly checking the bit at the end where the top of the sill meets the outrigger meets the door-pocket. There was no more checking I could possibly do so I welded the sill in today and now, with hands free, checked again and again why there's a gap between it and the outrigger. Or if you align the outrigger with the sill there's a gap between that and the door-bin. I could re-attach the outrigger then force the sill up to meet it but if the sill is bent then it won't meet the centre-sill properly. I was hoping to get that spot & plug-welded in today. I dug-out my spot-welder the other day and spent a few hours wiring it directly into the mains (30amp fuse) and making sure the arms and electrodes were adjusted properly and had nice clean tips on them. It's working fine and so much quicker-easier to do than normal welding. Anyway I can't proceed any further till I work out how to get round this issue. It's probably got something to do with the sagging/jacking issue detailed recently. It looks like something has been jacked a 1cm too high up but that's unlikely as the floor-support is in exactly the same place it was before and the panel below it is deep and vertical and can't really bend upwards. I'm going to need to do a lot of measuring within the car and on the half-Imp to see if I can find any answer. The whole lot might need to come back out and start again but I think that's unlikely. Basically I decided to abandon it early this evening and go home and watch the Croatia-Scotland game - then realised that's on tomorrow  inner-sill back in  rear-end tied in  if outrigger is aligned with sill (orange dots) spots from outrigger to floor-support don't meet  also rear of outrigger should follow horizontal plane of sill  this is better illustrated in this pic  also when outrigger and sill meet outrigger is too low on door-pocket  if outrigger is up at original position with door-bin and floor-support panel it doesn't meet sill |
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Last Edit: Oct 11, 2024 19:27:05 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,452
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Oct 12, 2024 19:22:18 GMT
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Ok. So after losing way to much sleep over this I think I decided last night to weld things in so the inner-sill and outrigger are matched which will then mean the centre-sill will go on straight and I can worry about the outrigger-to-bin joint another day. I may actually move over to the other side of the car now and see what I can learn there (taking more measurements before I start) then come back to this side in a few weeks. As a bit of respite from the body i thought I better get back to the engine. The plan was, after all, the get that running and on a trailer then take it back to from where I bought the Imp and hopefully glean a little more info from folks who were connected with it. What's stopping me from doing so? Well the starter was never finished. I had the end-float issue, the cracked nylon terminal-post insulator issue and the loose tape on the windings issue. I've actually found a couple of sources for the plastic/nylon insulator but it's about £15 after P&P which seems a bit much when I could probably get away with just gluing it back together. I saw a NOS 'sundries' kit for Lucas starters on Ebay and hoped the thing might be in there along with shims/washers for the end-float. The kit seems to have loads of bit in it that are definitely not on my (M35G) starter but the Lucas catalogue I got recently confirms this is the correct sundry kit for my starter so for £5 (plus £6 P&P) I thought it would be worth a try. Anyway the kit arrived and there is no plastic bit in it but there are loads of washers. Today (I cba dismantling the starter to compare the washers) but I did have the old armature to hand and tried all the washers on both ends to see what looked/felt right. There were only 2 possibilities for one end but the other had several with same ID but varying ODs. I don't think they are .'. all for this application. When I go to glue the insulator together (or splash-out on a new one) I'll be able to compare the possible candidates in the kit with the originals  what's in the NOS Lucas box it's one kit of sundries other end tells you the same but has another number side everything seemed to be so organised in the old days a lot of stuff in the box apart from the CSK Philips screws nothing looks familiar found 2 washers/shims that may be for this end of armature and several possibles for the other end panels coming together fine at O/S sill rear-end hope to use this on the sills  don't know where these gaps came from doesn't really look like it belongs on this car but is identical to original |
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Last Edit: Oct 12, 2024 20:42:38 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,452
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So. Almost nothing done since last post (3 weeks-ish) apart from I have ordered the inner-sill for the LHS and a floor-edge for the RHS. Think it came to £176 for those including the shipping and they should arrive in a few weeks. The company seemed to think I'd made a mistake in my order and quoted me for 2 floor-edges than the guy phoned a few days ago to check I really wanted a left for one panel and a right for the other. I've ordered the inner-sill as the one on the left looks worse than the one I just repaired on the right and that took a lot of time up. My intention is to buy full floor-halves but I thought I'd have a go with the cheaper floor-edge panel just to see how I got on. In the last post I was talking about the spot-welder and I manged to reach a couple of bits on the sill with it and it really is great to use but without spending a fortune on different arms I won't ba able to reach the bottom edge so have drilled it for plug-welds, I may actually be able to reach it if I could the old floor-edge away but didn't want to do that till the new panel arrives. In other news however I have brought the half-Imp shell to the barn from my lock-up. This took up the best part of the weekend as I had to get the trailer fit for the (short) journey. The tailgate was seized and there were no lights and it was full of soil and weeds. The Gaffer doesn't look after anything he owns. I remember when he got it it was fully-functional with integral lights n stuff. Now it has no lights and the floor is much and the mudguards are held on with bits of wire. I've also never towed a trailer of this size and definitely never reversed one like it. It all went well considering the whole 'rig' is over 30' long and I had to reverse it round 2 bends to get out of the lock-ups.  membrane-sill drilled to plug-weld it to inner-sill  top of (repaired)inner-sill spot-welded to membrane-sill   bringing the half-Imp (back) down to the barn  this should yield better wheel-tubs and rear crossmember panel  half-Imp tucked inside after a bit of shuffling around  Lonesome George and a little trailer outside for the afternoon whilst making room |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,452
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So. I got started on forensics on the half-Imp last night I'm basically scraping off everything that isn't original to see what condition the wing is in before I remove it. I'm removing it to get in at the wheel-tub and also as a practise-run for taking the same part off the pick-up as I want to cut it at the trim-line and haven't done that before. I took the full rear wing off this half-shell years ago which was fine but as I don't want to disturb the special pick-up parts of my shell and the top of the wing is hidden by that I want to cut right along where the stainless-steel trim goes and am not sure where is best to cut it at the front/B-pillar. The LHS wing had had a replacement arch brazed to it so I expected this one to be the same but it seems it's all original. This is a bit of a bummer as I currently have 1 arch-repair panel and it's for the RHS. Would have been much better if it was for the LHS. So, back to the scraping. As well as the various patches of random colours on the wing, from when I was testing my spray-gun fan, it seems to have been re-painted in its original Loch Blue twice. But most none of the original blue remains where someone it way prior to a heavy filler-job with yellow primer on top. Strange as this featured on the Loch Blue spare bonnet I have and they weren't from same car. Anyway. Underneath it all is the original arch which is a bit corroded and dented. The car also had new sills on it at some time so the filler will have been used to blend that into the bottom of the wing. I have not yet uncovered this tho.  removing the door striker as I may be cutting here  top of wing is original paint   removing filler and newer paint  confusing here as we seem to have Rootes style red primer over Rootes Loch Blue top-coat  no repair panel under the filler |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,452
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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