foxy99
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Aug 27, 2023 23:41:48 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2023 11:38:10 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Sept 8, 2023 11:45:27 GMT
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Not a huge update but good all the same... I got 2 new nuts for the axle. They are 1" BSW and fit great. Only needed one but you had to buy a pair (£8.06 all in). They also have same spanner size as the originals. I think they are sort of soft grade but am glad they are black as they look more robust than the zinc generic ones in the listing. I did find someone else selling something with same size nuts on it but he's not replied yet when I asked about spanner-size so these will do for now. As you can see from pics they are quite a bit deeper so will probably cut some of the height off with angle-grinder. Am now de-rusting the chassis and going to paint it with hammered (not actually hammered) blue Hammerite. The front of the frame is badly rusted so I need some suitably-sized angle-iron to weld in. Problem is it seems to be an old Imperial size (1 3/4") and now you have a choice of 40mm or 50mm. The 1 3/4" in right in the middle of that new 1" BSW nut fits the axle fine not quite as good as the originals but will do for now
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2023 11:47:21 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 14, 2023 21:37:10 GMT
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Possibly/Hopefully a pointless task, as I now have a new wheel for the green Hammerite-hammered trailer, but I've been stripping paint and rust off the most recent trailer frame. I may have already said that the front rail needs replaced and, as usual, there is a complication: I measure the angle-iron to be 1/8" thick and 1 3/4" wide. I need a bit about 3' long. The thickness isn't big deal as 3mm (widely available) is bang-on but you can only get 40mm or 50mm wide and I need somewhere in between. Not a huge deal but If I use new bits to repair the rotten bottoms of other parts of the frame it could look odd. Anyway i have been de-rusting the bits of the frame which weren't welded on. That's basically the tailgate (sans wood); 2 vertical bits of flat-bar (that tie the middle of the side-boards together); the trims that go along the top of the uppermost boards; 2 vertical bits of (narrower) angle-iron which sat inside the corners of the box somewhere. When I was stripping the trailer down I found lots of newer screws added through the various metal parts to keep it all together and as I won't be putting those back in I've welded up the holes that had been drilled for them. Was a bit tricky deciding which to weld-up as the holes weren't spaced equally on any of the bits but I think I got it about right. The new wheel for the other trailer should have arrived down the barn by now so I will see tomorrow whether it fits or not. It supposedly has a 25mm ID bearing so could be suitable but I have my doubts. various metal parts make up frame and top-rails. new screws have been added over the years originals were like gutter bolts with square nuts top-rails had a lot of these holding them to rotten boards below one rail had been sliced with a grinder so have welded slit back together detachable vertical parts of frame bottoms of these internal bits are quite corroded ![](https://i.imgur.com/t2vWbxc.jpg) extra holes filled with weld
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Last Edit: Sept 14, 2023 21:57:52 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 18, 2023 9:05:57 GMT
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Ok so the bits pictured above are all painted now (Hammerite blue Hammered) but ay pics I took were no good as I broke my decent camera and the flash is just bouncing off the painted parts. The axle is off and has been in the electrolysis so once that's dried-off and wire-brushed it should be ready for paint. Have also been removing the most rusted frame-section. That's the front lower transverse one. It was welded (badly) onto the side and vertical parts but also to a collar/strap attached to the main drawbar/tube. axle in electrolysis front corner (RHS) where 3 sections meet. transverse rail is last on LHS front upright with remains of side and transverse rails on it transverse rail is also welded to middle rail released from hoop on main tube
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 19, 2023 20:51:04 GMT
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So I got some new angle-iron today - metric of course ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) It's some 50mm x 50mm to replace the 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" stuff shown above plus a bit of 30mm x 30mm which I think is about right to repair the bottoms of the inner-support pieces shown earlier. I wasn't planning to take pics of the metal and make a post tonight but looking at the invoice half an hour ago I find I've been charged for 'bigger' stuff and ended up taking pics to email them in hope of getting some money refunded. I specifically bought 3mm stuff (but saw they had 5mm) and the woman who served me was very friendly and took some measurements before making up the invoice but I noticed she didn't check the thickness and also didn't notice it was written on one of the lengths. This actually brings me to my next gripe... The company advertise on Facebook about their 'offcuts section' and how it's great for the DIYer so you imagine it'll be some sort of good deal you'll get on odds n ends they can't sell like normal stock. Anyway you get there and there are no prices on any of the bits so you take what you need and go to the front desk with it and next minute they're out with the calculator working out the exact price. The woman today actually said 'I'll just put the two 90cm bits thru as one 1.8m' as if it was some sort of help to me. So I'm thinking by that logic if you found ten 30cm bits on the shelf (which they wouldn't be able to sell normally) would they put that thru as one 3m bit? There should be some discount for odds n ends or 'short bits'. I would've actually been better off with a 1.8m bit as I'm sure these bits I got are going to be a bit short to go right across the width of the trailer. Anyway it's done now but I don't think I'll be going back. Having said that the last time I went i got some big discount at the end but God knows what it was for or how the guy worked it out or why I didn't get it today. Was also thinking coming home about how the high cost of the steel sort of forces you to retain more of the original trailer. Like I'd been thinking for a while would it not be quicker/better to just junk all the old angle-iron and replace it with new stuff but at these prices it would be about £150-£200 for it all £25 worth of angle-iron size written on one of the main bits looks quite thick 3mm? invoice error? I'm guessing my stuff would be priced somewhere in between the two values underlined EDIT just looking at prices online it seems that even if there was an error today I'm still getting very good VFM... 1m of 50mm x 50mm x 5mm seems to be around £25 which would be unit price of 25.00 against the 9.89444 shown on my invoice or for the 30mm x 30mm x 3mm it's about but then I see a listing for 6m lengths of 50mm x 50mm x 3mm and they are only £25.45 each which would be a unit price of 4.24167 which seems very cheap. You could do the whole trailer in that lol. Anyway we'll see what they say to my email
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2023 21:54:34 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Sept 20, 2023 14:07:01 GMT
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Well that's that resolved - sort of ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) I got an immediate reply (email this morning) saying only the narrow bit (the 30 x 30) was 3mm and the other two were 5mm and that the pics I emailed weren't accessible and to come back to have the metal re-measured ![>:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/angry.png) I therefore sent another few emails with more explanation and pics as attachments, rather than inline/from the Cloud. Next minute the manager is emailing asking for my number but I'm on my way to work so can't take calls. I go and do some work-related stuff (like a 50 mile round-trip) and actually pass very close to the depot and aim to go back once I've dealt with the work stuff. I end up thinking 'is it worth this hassle for a few £s and if they are going to refund me they have all the information they need' and just head home rather than detour the short distance to the depot. Get home. No reply from lady in office or confirmation that she can she pics or anything but another email from manager asking to call him to 'get this sorted out'. Sounds ominous ![O_o](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/browraise.png) . I reply saying that's me home. He calls immediately. We go back thru the machinations of it and he tells me the 3mm is actually dearer than the 5mm and due to burring it would have been measured as 5mm not 3mm. He says 3mm is like 18.whatever unit-price and the 5mm is only 17.whatever due to how long they may have been on the shelf or something. Seems odd but I do remind him that I got them from the offcuts section and the prices were much lower than what he's saying (so sounds like I got a good deal whether they were right or wrong). And that was about it. I'm still none the wiser NB 'burring' is something to do with metal melting at really high temperatures. I think that's what he explained anyway
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2023 14:10:38 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Sept 20, 2023 21:51:39 GMT
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Yes these places selling offcuts now are just a ripoff, they are just selling the bits that they have left over to the DIYer, minature model makers etc. at full price and we buy them because we don't want/need a full length.
Years ago you used to go and get bits and they just charged a small amount for their tea fund or similar.
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foxy99
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Sept 20, 2023 22:20:36 GMT
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Yip that's what I expected homersimpsonHaving said that I think I still got it at a reduced price but I don't know for sure. They should just write on the offcuts £3; £7; £12 or whatever so you know what to expect at the counter. You'd look like a bit of a fud, after they do all the calculating, going 'oh right, £25?... I was expecting it to be less, ehm I'll just put them back. Thanks'
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Sept 21, 2023 8:19:22 GMT
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Yes these places selling offcuts now are just a ripoff, they are just selling the bits that they have left over to the DIYer, minature model makers etc. at full price and we buy them because we don't want/need a full length. Years ago you used to go and get bits and they just charged a small amount for their tea fund or similar. You can blame some of that on the price of scrap. What sensible business would deal with hobbyists who suck up a huge amount of time, when they could just chuck the offcuts in a scrap bin and get the same amount of money when it's collected by a professional?
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foxy99
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Sept 21, 2023 16:52:39 GMT
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You can blame some of that on the price of scrap. What sensible business would deal with hobbyists who suck up a huge amount of time, when they could just chuck the offcuts in a scrap bin and get the same amount of money when it's collected by a professional? What is the price of scrap these days? I reckon they'd get about 30p for that 92cm bit of 30mm x 30mm Hobbyists sucking up a huge amount of time? The place was empty and it took the lady around 5 minutes to prepare the invoice
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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So I've actually got nearly all of the new metal welded in ![:o](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/shocked.png) I've basically rebuilt the front end and there's a little bit left over which I could use to improve the rear RH corner. I'm reluctant to do this as it's passable and I really need to get this unnecessary project out the way (for a couple of years perhaps) and get back to my Imp pick-up but at same time it would only take another few hours so might end up doing it. I think I will finish painting the frame before I put the project on ice but can't see me sorting the wood out. I had a look at it all the other night and most of it is still surprisingly solid. It takes longer to repair bits of wood (splicing new pieces in) than it does to replace it but then there's the cost of all the new wood. Anyway that's just some musings so back on-topic.... I probably mentioned it before but the leaf-springs have special bolts in them with integral grease-nipples but, ironically, they look to have never been greased and the bolts are worn away (flattened) where they wer in contact wiht the eyes of the springs. I'm trying not to mention that there are actually 4 of these bolts but 2 were made redundant some timme ago as someone has adapted the frame and now only 2 are employed. I'm nit sure what the original design was a will probably never know unless I go back and try to trace the previous owners So what do I do about the worn bolts? Just stick them back in and manually grease them every so often or spend hours trying to track down identically-sized ones, or build up the worn bits with weld and file them round again? Next up are the U-bolts which hold the axle to the leaf-springs. There were 4 of these on the trailer plus 4 flat plates which connect each U-bolt to its partner on the other side of the spring. They are obviously scrap but I kept them for patterns and started searching the Net today for something the same. They aren't actually the same as each other tho. 2 are longer and a little wider than the other 2. The shorter ones would be better as a lot of the thread was unused. They are all 3/8" or 8mm diameter. I couldn't really find anything under 'Imperial' so will need to focus on 8mm ones but I think it's going to be hard to find ones the same bolts for eye of leaf-springs are worn flat in points the bolts have their own grease-nipples grease comes out here S N J 9 R possibly need 3/8" U-bolts with centres 45mm-50mm apart
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Last Edit: Oct 8, 2023 0:17:52 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Oct 15, 2023 23:25:57 GMT
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So I got my U-bolts an have to say they are pretty much spot-on with quite substantial jointing-plates. They were £16.02 (free P&P) which is not bad. Like £4 each unit. Only fly in the ointment is that I think I went a bit thin with the 8mm ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) Might have said earlier but my original bits weren't all the same and I think I thought the thinner ones were 3/8" thick so 8mm would've been fine but I was obviously confused as it's 5/16" that's close to 8mm (7.9mm) and 3/8" is 9.5mm so I should have really went for 10mm option. Anyway I've got them now and am sure they'll be fine for light duty. They won't all snap at once. Ffs the previous owner was running around with a 5 cylinder engine in it and no hub-nut on one wheel and there was no drama so I'm saying the 8mm will be fine ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) In other news I have finished welding on the new angle-iron at the front and have quite a lot of the frame painted. I'm wire-wheeling sections then putting on a coat of Hammerite. Will post pics when the painting is more complete. Also trying to decide how to do the wood. I just got some nice reddish woodstain for free and would like to use that but for woodstain to look good it really needs to be on bare wood and I can't see me sanding all the wood back to bare. I was therefore thinking of some sort of muted green or cream or something to contrast with the bright metallic blue. Saw a nice one by Sandtex one 'Bay Tree' which you can't get in gloss but is available the solvent-based Satin U-bolt kit for £16 new ones are close in dimensions to my (longer) originals but are noticeably thinner old plates next to new ones new plates are thicker than both the old ones![](https://i.imgur.com/qv4l3Nl.jpg) woodstain appearance governed by what's underneath thinking of painting wood something like this
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Last Edit: Oct 15, 2023 23:47:17 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Oct 19, 2023 19:19:41 GMT
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This isn't a great picture (too dark) and despite being at the barn today it was one of those vile warm but damp days where everything is covered in condensation ![(puke)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sick.png) so I didn't even go near the project(s) but took pic to show the frame is more or less solid again. Unexpectedly tho the pic does seem to highlight the areas I've been cleaning with the wire wheel ahead of painting ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) They look brighter than I thought they were (due to the low lighting in barn at night) which is good. There is actually very little rust on the outside of all the original angle-iron or the main tube. The rust was really only heavy inside the horizontal section of angle-iron. Probably due to years or rain water trapped inside. Floor should really be drilled all over, to allow water to drain out ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) front of frame repaired and a lot of the metal cleaned and/or painted
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Oct 22, 2023 18:46:17 GMT
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So glad you have persevered with this its a great satisfaction doing an old trailer, mine draws attention at the tip!
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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foxy99
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Oct 22, 2023 23:19:50 GMT
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I look fwd to going to the tip with mine winchmanBut only after I've learned to reverse a trailer - uphill at a 70 degrees bend ![???](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/huh.png) (that's the scenario at our dump)
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Oct 23, 2023 15:09:56 GMT
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Don't ask me to teach you!. still struggle my self
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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foxy99
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So another small update..... I'm continuing to clean the frame with wire-wheels and it seems to be working well. Put it this way I'm not going thru the whole sand-blasting trauma for what is basically a diversion from my original plans IE making stand for Imp engine becomes making trailer for Imp engine c/w stand becomes buying another trailer cos I can't find wheel for 1st one becomes.... So I probably mentioned some time ago there are alterations to the suspension mounts and I don't think I'll realistically work out what the extra bracketry is/was for and there was rust in between them and the frame rails so I decided to cut them off last ime I was down. They are now sitting in a citric-acid solution and I'm hoping this will free things up and yield at least one good wet-bolt Also one of the little brackets at the rear of the frame (which might be for lighting or something) wasn't welded on great and had rust behind it so that's been sliced off for prep before it gets welded back on ![](https://i.imgur.com/EmjFnna.jpg) redundant shackles c/w wet-bolts removed from frame metal underneath cleaned-up pretty well small bracket on rear vertical frame rail was not very secure so removed it as it was also harbouring rust
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Last Edit: Nov 4, 2023 20:50:14 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Nov 14, 2023 23:17:54 GMT
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Sorry for the very poor pictures but felt I had to post as I spent almost 5 hours sanding these at the weekend. So yeah. Basically I gave all the boards a going-over with my little Bosch 'mouse' sander as I can't find the belt sander anywhere. I know I took it to a job in August and didn't use it but it's nowhere to be seen. In a way that's a good thing as the mouse with 120-grit triangles on it just took off all the loose and I'm really liking the patina. Am thinking just repair the actual rot and then varnish it all which will let the previous colours (brown? & green?) show thru and be a good contrast to the brand-new look of the re-painted frame. I actually started on the repairs last night. Using my cheapo router and cheapo router-table I've made a good replica of the lowest T&G board for the tailgate. I found some sarking board I have, from a recent roofing job, was the ideal thickness and as it's a sort of rough finish might blend in better with the original wood. It's quite fiddly but I've knocked-up some very good replica woodwork, using this method, when doing repairs to the fascias/soffits on old properties. I also got myself a little 'vintage' dowelling jig from Ebay for £10 (posted) so hope to be fixing the rotten parts of the boards over the next week or so front boards tailgate boards side boards other side boards I am really needing another decent camera. The 3 I have are all rubbish for one reason or another and I got a new one this week but the seller forgot to put the battery in. Am not sure why suddenly used digital cameras are fetching good money as I used to get them for buttons. I thought they were basically obsolete as everyone has a smart phone now but no they seem to be selling for £30 and more
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2023 23:19:24 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Nov 23, 2023 19:35:08 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 23, 2023 19:37:41 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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