foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Have you considered Danish oil to finish the timber? I actually have a tin of that but it's clear so not sure if I could dye the wood first then put the Danish Oil on. I could test it out in one of the short bits I have I guess |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Jun 19, 2023 20:44:46 GMT
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With my impeccable timing of a hessian sack of excrement I can offer you a possible solution to the mismatched indespenion units hubs by offering -free & gratis- another trailer. This one has matched units, mini wheel size hubs.
The tires have good tread but stored outdoors and have some cracking at the tread roots.One spare stored in loft should be as new apart from the historic date mark.
The T bar of axle and draw bar is what may be of best use to you,intact and usable. Unlike the light weight frame which is pitted and warped ( general abuse )but freshly painted !
Mudguards included, no trailer board, no wood floor or cladding. The hitch is a spring loaded type which should take the shunt out of overrun. Jockey wheel bit stiff but intact & works.
Soooo interested ? Its free , just need a towbar cos I aint got one anymore (apart from the garden ornament)
I guesstimate your east side of Glasgow,I`m west side Renfrewshire so bout 20 miles ish?
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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many thanks for your kind offer rassholviking but I just can't risk taking on another trailer - that would be 4  I know what I'm like and would end up sorting yours but still keeping this one to finish off and you know how these things go  Bizarrely, last night, I found you can get a bearing with a metric outer-race (eg 52mm) and an Imperial inner-race/bore (eg 1"). Unfortunately I need one with a 2" outer-race and a 25mm bore but it shows these weird things do exist. I've not actually measured the diameter of the axle yet so really should do that before proceeding but I'm starting to think the best/quickest solution would be to just cut the hub out of the old wheel and weld it into the new one. That's how they were made in 1st place anyway |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Jun 23, 2023 23:37:58 GMT
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Nothing resolved with the wheel yet but the wood is starting to look good. I ended up just going for clear varnish on bare wood. I like it and after 3 coats it'll look great. The wood is probably just cheap pine but it has some nice grain/detail in it and doesn't look quite like that cheap rubberwood you get that's full of knots.   bare board next to some which have had 1st coat of varnish £17 from B&Q |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Jun 24, 2023 22:34:31 GMT
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Hardly worth a post this but hey it wouldn't be me if it wasn't complete So the varnish from yesterday wasn't dry enough for a 2nd coat so I busied myself with round 2 of a waste of time sandblasting. I won't repeat all the details, as it's all on another thread on here, but for say 6 hours effort and a huge amount of mess I managed to blast about 6cm on the trailer. It worked well I guess but the trauma of getting there isn't really worth it s I think I'd be better off just getting back on it with the wire-brush thin on my grinder, get the paint on and call it 'job done'  lots of mess, lots of stress, several hours and a bit money...   to achieve this |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Jun 26, 2023 22:08:57 GMT
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Had a little more success today. And I mean a little It's really not viable to be spending 3 hours or so to clean like 14" of metal but the frustrating thing is when it works it takes less than a minute to clean a long strip of it. It wold actually be quicker and cheaper to buy new metal and weld it in place of the old Anyway, fwiw, here are some pics  took less than a minute to clean this corner bit could have been cleaner but media started to block  other corner for comparison  gave up after struggling with these 2 areas |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Jun 26, 2023 22:45:38 GMT
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Hi, If the blaster is being difficult just do the inside awkward corners when it's working OK, because the longer straight runs can be done with a flap wheel easier.
Colin
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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That's what I was thinking colnerov but becuase the sort of inner bits are quite badly corroded I'd feel happier if they were blasted, rather than just wire-wheeled. Tbh it'll prob make no difference which one I do as the rust will inevitably be back as soon as I walk away Anyway I'm persevering and, using bizarre techniques, am making a little headway. Mb another 2 days and the inner bits will be ready for paint  plastic sheet put down to make recovering the media easier some parts are very clean some not so much not bad getting there |
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2023 1:36:45 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Just a thought about the rust etc,
Some time back I roughly sanded the inside of a toolbox drawer and painted it with "Bondaprimer" then, like an idiot, left it outside all over winter getting thoroughly soaked and also sometimes filled with water,
When I eventually realised it was still no worse than it had been with no new rust in the painted areas,
"Bondaprimer" is, IMO, a good product that can easily be over painted,
Nigel
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BMW E39 525i Sport
BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Thanks for that Alpina99If there is a paint that actually works over rust I can forget all about blasting. It would improve my life tenfold. The amount of time I spend in my job and spare time fighting rust is not normal. Need to remind myself that the paint I'm using on this is supposed to be for over rust and that the trailer only needs to look good for a short while but the next thing I'm blasting is the engine-bay of my Daimler Double-Six as the engine is out. It's one of those things you need to get right before putting the engine back in. I could put the Bondaprimer on the bare metal. I'm actually making a little bit progress on the trailer now (it's slow and tedious but I'm getting a routine going) and have a new bag of media en-route |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Did I show you mine? Still not finished after 5 years! Its a 1930's one  |
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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I did see that winchmanVery nice and if you can do that one surely I can do one from much later era. Actually I went back and re-measured things this week and the axle on this is definitely metric (25mm) but the thread is Imperial (18 TPI). I really don't understand why it isn't a 1" axle. All the period stuff I have on these trailers show 1" axle. I spent some more time on it today (no pictures). Basically I was staring at the 2 wheels trying to work out how to make 1 good one out of them. The original wheel is only corroded badly in one place. I must have been sitting in wet grass or something. Using putty and visually comparing the rims they appear to be identical in profile so I was thinking about cutting the rot out of the original rim and using a piece of the good one to replace it. I then looked again at cutting the hub out of the original to put in the new one. Both options have their problems.... I would need 2 holesaws with ID very close to the OD of the hubs to cut them out. Problem is holesaws are sold by their OD so you'd need to get lucky working out what the ID of any given one would be. If the ID was tight on the OD of the hub the hole would be concentric with the rim. Then when you weld the old hub into the new rim there's no guarantee it will stay concentric or at 90 degrees to the rim. I got the wire-wheel onto the old rim and it was much more solid than it looked so cutting the rot out seemed best option but then I looked at the rot at the valve-stem hole on the opposite face and it's much nearer the centre of the wheel so there would be more depth to cut out. I started opening that hole up with a file to see if I would reach sound metal to weld a little plate into and the hole kept getting bigger and it has lots of contours so would be hard to fashion a little piece up. So after hours of deliberating I decided to cut the hub out of the original rim. I had a 68mm holesaw lying around which was bigger than I needed but as it's only the hub I need here doesn't matter where the resultant hole ends up. I can grind any excess off the hub itself. Did I get it out? no. I nearly burnt my drill out trying and I have made a groove in the metal, so there's not really any going back now, but I think I'll just need to keep looking for the right wheel. How long will that take? 4 weeks? 4 years? |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Not much of any update. More of a continuation of my last (no pictures) post. So I saw 2 ads for trailers with slide-on wheels and asked them if they could send pics of the wheels. One said yes and didn't get back to me. The other guy was, let's say, fond of a funny cigarette and I eventually got down there to see it and straight away saw there was a hole in at least one of the rusty rims, but they were still holding air as their were inner-tubes in them. This git me thinking maybe I should just weld mine up. I was sure this is a non-starter as the tube just appears as a big bubble in any hole (on tire sidewall for example) but might be worth a go. As I said above I cleaned the wheel with a wire thing on a grinder and it was pretty sound in most places. Am sure I could put some sort of patch over the holes to stop the tube coming out or cut bits out of the red rim and weld them in.  only 2 holes on valve side of wheel. metal round about seems quite solid  part of rim on inner side of wheel is holed everywhere  would be difficult to shape this section from sheet steel |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Hold a piece of copper behind and fill the holes with weld, you can dress them down to the correct thickness/ profile
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,274
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Jul 11, 2023 18:03:57 GMT
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Just the idea of towing something on wheels like that even welded is terrifying . I feel like if there ever was a time for waiting to get proper rims this is it.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Jul 11, 2023 20:47:15 GMT
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Well I'm still waiting on wheels but finally got no work-commitments again so will get back to the blasting. Not sure if I posted about it on this thread but I have 25kg of new media in the pot waiting to go. The other Marketplace person eventually sent me pics of the wheels on their frame and - you guessed it. Also toast. Anyway you know I have varnished all the wood but I hadn't done anything about the backs of the boards and was having a bit of a tidy up in the shipping container when I rediscovered an ancient till of varnish that had been in there from before I was the tenant. I know it's over 16 years old but could easily be 30 years old. It wasn't hard of skinned-over when I took the lid off for 1st time so I gave it a good stir and did the back of every piece of wood that came from the doors. It's satin, not gloss, and when I went down the next day it had dried fine. There's enough in the tin to do a 2nd coat on all the bits. Interestingly the tin tells you to do 3 coats. Won't be enough for that Our of curiosity I Googled Spencer Paints (Aberdeen) and they seem to still be active but have moved over to the Industrial sector wuth a bewildering array of Epoxies etc on their website.  1 tin of this might still be ok not sure where 'WOOD' and 'ITE SPI' went aferprevious pic but am sure W is correct missing letter here  lid off reveals some of it was definitely used many many years ago after stirring/shaking thoroughly 1st coat soaking in fine 1st coat satin next to 2 coats glossed one on RHS enough left for 2nd coat all round |
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Last Edit: Jul 11, 2023 20:49:31 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Jul 14, 2023 22:47:36 GMT
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Well thank fk that's over... What am I talking about? The blasting of course I actually got going quite well with the new media but just as I was starting to think 'I've cracked this' my visor was at the point I could hardly see a thing and the media seemed to be going blunt after only 3 rounds. On top of that it's been raining most of the week, my barn is getting full of water and I've just had enough so I just painted the frame. There was no curse word way I was spending more money and waiting on more parcels (grit and visor screens) to continue with this. I wasn't happy after putting so much time and effort in that there were still specks of rust in places but curse word it - it'll just need to do. Once the paint was on and it looks great you feel a bit better. Still to sort out this curse word saga with the wheel but I've decided just to cut the rot out and butcher the other rim for shaped bits. Yesterday I finished giving the back of all the wood a 2nd coat of the ancient satin and the tin ran out just as I finished the last one. Sometimes things do work out. Also I have enough left of the Hammerite to do a 2nd coat all round. I think this is needed in all cases (with Hammerite) as I recently put one coat of blue over silver and you could see the silver grinning thru. Therefore even tho it looks ok with 1 coat the metal is basically still grinning thru  back of all the wood now has 2 coats of satin varnish  close up  tin finished  surface water draining into barn  all media near door ruined by water   didn't get all the rust off inside of rails  got most of it off suspension things  good but not good enough  full frame has now had 1 coat of Hammerite   rear corners look great if you forget about rust underneath  should be enough left to do another coat |
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2023 22:52:51 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Jul 17, 2023 23:22:12 GMT
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Well, like the varnish, there was just enough in the (v small) tin of Hammerite to give the full trailer a 2nd coat. The following day I got all the boards out to see how they would best fit to the frame. It's kinda difficult to write your thought-process out accurately and illustrate it with pics but I'll try... I have a limited amount of long boards, the medium ones aren't long enough to fit widthways and there are short one that I can use vertically on the front and rear (tailgate if/when made). I think it will be a good idea to leave gaps between the bottom boards so water doesn't collect inside. If I, including small gaps, use long boards right across the bottom I'm short to do the sides. So I could just do sort of rails on the side. Or I could make the sides full and be one short for the bottom. Not a huge problem as I can use two shorter boards in the middle due to the support of the T-frame underneath. I think the clear varnish was a great choice. Someone looking at it yesterday was very impressed with how good it looks and said the wood is red pine. He says the knots are different in normal pine. Anyway there is definitely a nice tone to it considering it's clear varnish. NB a lot of the shorter board have still to be sanded and gloss varnished. The picture of the short boards is showing the back side with saw marks etc that has had the satin varnish on it.  short boards can be used vertically on front (and back) base needs 7 boards. gaps will be left for drainage sides could be done with big gaps to save boards but I think look better with no gaps would look like this with full sides and big gaps on bottom bottom boards could be pushed together closer making space in middle.... ....which could be filled with shorter boards original holes from when the boards were doors could be made a feature or used for securing thingsThe next thing I need to work out is how to secure all the boards. I could drill lots more holes in the frame but that would still only really support boards right next to the frame. There are a small amount of holes in the frame already but I'm not quite sure how that would have allowed boards to be fitted from the factory. I reckon if they used plywood sheets, rather than narrow boards these holes would have been enough   lower side-rails of frame have 2 holes each. one in front of axle and one behind top front rail has 3 holes lower front & rear rails have 2 holes rear uprights have 2 holes eachThere are a few tabs on the frame, that must be for something more significant that I can't work out as yet, and a couple of random holes drilled on the side of the long bottom rails. I think that was done by someone trying to hold the mudguards on. I'd rather make proper brackets to mount the guards. Anyway I've dona a lot of thinking about this and I think the answer will be to use flat steel bar to clamp the wood the the frame using the existing drilled holes. I just happen to have enough of it to do the job. I reckon I will only need 2 x 14" pieces and 2 x 36" pieces to secure it all firmly. We shall see.... |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Aug 16, 2023 22:56:52 GMT
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Two crazy updates to report on.... A couple of weeks ago I got a private message on here from an attractive lady who is registered on here but has had no activity at all. She apparently lives in Denver and said her uncle had old trailer wheels and to message him on whatever.... I thought this was definitely Spam but emailed the guy anyway and got a reply from what seemed to be a real (and polite, friendly) person. I explained what I was looking for thinking there was no way he'd have anything like it and he came back with a pic saying he had something that might suit  I then explained the whole metric/Imperial bearing issue and he says they are metric. I then reminded him am in UK and shipping would be a fortune. He replied saying can send the wheel for $90 all-in. I'm still a bit dubious about it thinking the bearing is bound to be wrong but also thinking 'what the hell, at £70.70 it's worth a try. don't be so bloddy suspicious and pessimistic' Anyway I told him I'm waiting on some money coming in and he says 'no probs'. Then, a couple of days ago, I see a listing near me on Marketplace. Little box-trailer for £65 with my type of wheels. Contacted the guy and said am only interested in the wheels but will obv take the whole thing away. Went dowm late late night. Guy was very friendly and wheels looked solid  I then noticed there was no nut on the axle holding the wheel on and the guy said 'Jesus, I've been using it like that' I paid him and took the wheel - just to seal the deal - and said I'd return for the rest of it with a big washer and drill the axle, to take a pin or something. Also took rough measurements (very coarse thread) then Googled last night and the correct nut might be 1" BSF (11TPI). The guy also knocked the price down to £60 because of the nut being lost Took a few quick pics (not good lighting) and measured inside race of bearing and looks like I have another Imperial one. It seems to be bang-on 1" diameter so will (again!) be no good for my trailer so am back to the option of cutting a rim up to fix my original. I now have 2 suitable donors. However - the little trailer seems to be a belter. It has leaf-spring suspension and seems to be very original with (non-rusty) mudguards and lots of original little features. It's also a bit smaller than the one I've just refurbished. I can't face going thru all that sand-blasting malarkey again but I have a feeling I'll tuck the green frame away, until a suitable wheel materialises, and start doing up this new one  Oh and still need to decide what to do about the USA rim  someone in USA says they can send me this for $90  got this locally last night for £60 (with a small trailer thrown in)  it's Gum-Dipped by Firestone  size looks right |
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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So I picked up the trailer today. I went down with a bag of axle parts from my own trailer ans odd wheel (nut, bearings, washers, spacers) plus a drill and some new 4mm drill-bits. Plan was to see if anything fitted the axle (unlikely) then drill the axle to take some sort of pin strong enough to hold the wheel on for the short drive back to base (5 to 7 miles depending on which route I took). Nothing I took fitted. The nut from my own trailer was way too small as the axle is turned-down and threaded quite a bit smaller than the 45mm diameter. As I said before the thread on this new axle is very coarse and nothing on my thread-files matched (and I can't find my screw-pitch gauge) so I just measured it best I could with a vernier. Looks like it's 0.1" which would make it 10TPI. Anyway me and the seller both feared the axle would be too hard to drill but the new 4mm bit went thru fine and he had some split-pins which would have tapped in (I measured one to be 3.8mm but it was a tight fit) and he talked me into taking the hole out to 5mm and gave me a bigger split-pin. Slight problem was I'd forgot to take the wheel back down with me I went back and got it and managed to get a pin thru the hole and over the edges of the wheel-centre. When I drilled the hole (squint) we both thought we'd need to pack things out with big washers (which he handily had) but I hadn't taken into account the depth of the wheel-centre bore. Anyway I got the wheel on and drove back at about max 30mph with no issues. As I said before I can't face the sandblasting caper again but the metal on this seems less rusted so I'll probably get tore in with the twist-knot brush and do it in the blue Hammerite (hammered) I bought recently. The wood isn't horrendous but isn't great either so will prob replace it all. The guy has already replaced the bottom with ply. I'm pretty sure the trailer is 99% as it was when new but has had quite a few modern fasteners put in to hold bits together and it's also longer then the one I've just spent all that time on (but same width). I was sure it was smaller when I first saw it but it's a 5' x 3' as opposed to a 4' x 3' Back home Googling am sure the required nut is 1" BSF which seems weird for such a coarse thread. I saw a listing for some nuts and it says the nut is 1.485" AF and the one I do have looks to be that size exactly. Will check the thread again more closely before ordering anything but fingers-crossed it's not anything more obscure  back to collect the little trailer today  very easy to tip on its side  leaf-spring suspension  large coarse-thread nut missing from one side of axle  nut on other side  just under 1.5" spanner-jaw size  thread pitch about 2.5mm or 1/10"  axle drilled for split-pin to hold wheel on for short journey   off we go  trailer is actually longer (and deeper) than last one NB the wheels from this latest one aren't right for the refurbished one. I now have three useable 1" bearing-ID wheels and one 25mm bearing-ID one |
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2023 14:17:15 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP
1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up
1984 VW Polo breadvan
1970s Yamaha Twins (4)
1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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