60s/70s trailers (primer and undercoat)

Thanks aspie. That's very interesting. I'm going down to work on it today. Taking the ramps off the back as they add a fair bit of weight to it and rattle a bit when towing. I got the mudguards off the other day for repairs

I used a recovery trailer fitted with the same type of bradley hitch.

2 suggestions...
check the brakes and auto-braking setup is working ( partly to save the "push" on the towing car, and partly to keep things nice and legal)
If you've never tried reversing a laden one of these up a kerb, learn how the reversing system works or you'll have all kinds of problems fun

^ ignore if it's stuff you already know, or use it to avoid a couple of "I wish I knew that earlier" type problems

You may know all of this.

Based on my towing horse boxes for the past 20 years or so, more trailers (hitches really) have an automatic (overrun) braking system. effectively when you brake the hitch telescopes and pulls the brakes on. Of course if you then try and reverse you put the trailer brakes on causing all sorts of fun. Later trailers have an automagical mechanism that can tell the difference between normal braking and reversing. Earlier trailers you have to lock the mechanism so it can't 'telescope' when you reverse, obviously remembering to unlock it when you go back to driving. There is also a handbrake, which I never use as the trailer sits for longish periods and I've had too may cases of sticking brakes.

There is also the breakaway cable which is attached to the brake cables and loops over something substantial on the tow car, if the tow hitch fails then the trailer is pulled along by the breakaway cable and pulls on the brakes. Or if you unhitch the trailer forget to unhook the breakaway cable and pull away you just break the cable (done that too many times).

I would be stripping/ checking the braking system too, as well as the fail safe on the towing hitch that stops it jumping off the ball.

Test in following order :
are brake linkages siezed?
- check handbrake lever etc is free to move, ratchet keeps it on ok?
- the hitch is on a shaft (see the big nut in the pic ) the shaft should be free to move into the hitch housing.
- the 1/2 collar at front of the hitch housing is the reversing lock, it should be free to flip onto and away from the shaft.
do drums/shoes work? apply trailer handbrake, try to tow with car, you should get drag.
does over-run work? try to reverse up a kerb (gently!) expect trailer brakes to lock on.
check reverse system. flip the 1/2 circle collar at front of the shaft to stop the hitch moving into the housing. you should then be able to reverse up a kerb. drive forward and the collar should automatically flip away from the shaft to release the lock.
breakaway cable? unhitch the trialer. pull cable forward. handbrake should be pulled on and stay on.

It sounds like a lot to check but it just takes a couple of minutes when you know how it all works.

Great instructions nomad. You've made it all very clear. I knew about the breakaway-cable (as, many years ago, a guy towed something for me on his own trailer and explained this) but it puzzled me when ppl spoke about a braked-trailer. I had no idea that there was anything other than the safety device which stops the trailer, should it become detached from the car.

Also appreciate input from other members

I did wonder what the little half-circle collar was for and now I think I understand....

The spring-loaded hitch/pin, up front, slides inwards when you brake (well the trailer slides onto the pin really) and this activates the brakes? Ingenious really as you'd assume you need a pulling action to bring the cables into play but the reverse action of the plunger must be turned into a pulling action on the cables by a pivot of some sorts.

The collar is provided so you can cancel-out the braking action when reversing.

The lever is there so you can use the cable-system as a handbrake too.

I know at least one of my cables has snapped and a threaded linkage is bent but it will be interesting to check it all out and repair it.



collar can be flipped-over to stop plunger/hitch-shaft from actuating brakes when reversing?



part of my cable/braking set-up is bent



rod from cable trunnion/wheel connects to linkage operated by handbrake-lever



is this ring on front part of safety mechanism?



left & right brake cables can just be seen here. RH cable has snapped and is hung over trailer nose at present



LH cable still intact

Hi again nomad.

Well it's been a couple of weeks since I posted but as the sun was shining and it was nice & warm this evening (not ) I set to work inspecting/assessing the brakes.

I was expecting a complex link-up from the tow-hitch plunger to the handbrake mechanism but it looks like the plunger just bumps against the handbrake lever to actuate the brakes. I guess the return-springs on the brake shoes must act on their own to release the brakes as there is no spring on the lever.

As shown before the trunnion (?) that connects the cables to the lever was bent so I set about pressing that straight. This worked fine on the swivel end but the threaded part broke. I've measured the thread to be 5/16 UNF (24 TPI) and should be able to repair it with rod of that size. Am not sure what to search for to replace the whole assy....

So the handbrake lever unbolted easily which just left the cables to be detached. They were pretty worn and snapped in places so I cut through them at the linkages on the wheel-cylinders as I made need to salvage the little clamps that secure them. Strangely the cables seem to have string inside them, despite being steel outside.

There was also the remains of what I think is the breakaway-cable and it looks damaged at both ends.

Lastly there are the actuating arms on the hubs. They are moving freely, up & down, but I think someone might have removed the gubbins inside the drums as there is no braking action. Will need to check further.



trunnion (?) connected to lower end of handbrake lever moves freely




handbrake lever bolted to underside of trailer and goes up through slot in frame. no other connection so can be lifted away when bolt removed




not sure what this arm on the handbrake lever is for




lever pushed full forwards is 'brakes off' position




trunnion assy bent at swivel joint and threaded rod





swivel joint pressed straight easily




but threaded rod cracked under pressure






brake arms move up and down freely




old brake cable will act as pattern for new





cable can be replaced without disturbing drums as cable folded round brake-arm linkages and secured back on itself with small clamps





breakaway cable appears to be damaged at both ends



So I need to source new cable. I think any wire rope of similar width would do. Need to check what's going on inside drums and also repair threaded rod on the trunnion.

Meanwhile the mudguards are being de-rusted in a large tub of vinegar. hey will need a few patches welded on them before repainting.

Brilliant georgeb. I'd have never thought of that.

Will investigate further. The tow-hitch/plunger hasn't moved in years in fairness. I gave it a bump with a hammer (calibrated knockometer?) yesterday tho and it did no in but was a bit stiff. Perhaps not releasing properly. Also the little ratcheting-arm was stiff with rust/paint.

Thanks again

Glad to be of assistance.


Sho' nuff is. Maybe though and looking at it, maybe an un-calibrated one would be better!

As you've seen underneath, trailers tend to not get a lot of maintenance and the hitch is in the same boat