foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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I'm making progress quicker on this than is comfortable for posting but am sure I need to go back a few days and talk about the boards. So yeah. I tentatively slotted the boards together then fetched the metal bits that aren't the actual frame. That's the 2 straps which hold the side-boards together (well they connect the 3 full-width boards) and the tailgate-frame. There is also two corroded small angle-iron bits that go in the corners (can't remember off-hand if it's front or rear) that I forgot need repaired. I'm sure I bought small angle-iron to do this but my welder is fckd again so that will need to wait. I was surprised the boards went together without too much strain considering all the coats of paint and the new grooves and tongue. The tailgate boards weren't going together well as one was way too tight but I actually had them in wrong order and once that was swapped they were fine. The side-boards could have been an issue but the centre holes weren't drilled in same position on both sides so it was easy to work out what ones went with what. Also realised a couple of the new bits of wood need sawed to right length as I made them up with extra on the end. The boards were originally secured to the metal with coach-bolts. Heads inside the trailer and nuts showing outside. This was fine I guess but I have a lot of roofing bolts (as I do cast-iron-gutter repairs) and I gave them a try. These have almost useless slots in the heads as there is no screwdriver big enough to fill them and the slots are very shallow at the side (the heads are domed) but they look quite neat so I tried the heads on the outside and thought they looked fine. Coach-bolts would look better as they have no slots but you can't use them with the head over metal as they have a square collar underneath. I'd need to put the head inside which defeats the purpose as you wouldn't see it and the nut would be visible outside. So after trying a couple of different roofing-bolts through the tailgate frame and wood I decided I wanted the shortest possible ones and would use big washers on the other side to stop the nuts digging in. When I got home started Googling to see if you could get stainless ones then quite by accident I spotted a trailer place selling 'Tee-nuts' for this very purpose.... I actually kept a few of these from a coach I dismantled recently thinking 'they might be of use one day' so the next day gave them a try. Turns out they were 8mm ones and I only need 6mm fasteners for this. So the following day I bought a bag of 10 to try it out and it went better than I expected Basically the tee-nut is like a sleeve with a big washer on the end plus prongs that dig into the wood. All in one piece. I had to start with bolts longer than I wanted in order to catch the threads. Once the thing was pulled all the way in I could swap the bolt for a shorter one. The only problem with all this was I needed a huge screwdriver (borrowed off the gaffer and still not wide/thick enough) to pull the nuts in and the slots in the heads were starting to chew up. I found that using a normal M6 bolt instead with a small socket as a collar I could pull them in pretty easily with a tiny breaker-bar (1/4" drive). I soon ran out as there are only 10 in the pack but the tailgate is all in one piece now (just needs 2 more screws) and is feeling pretty solid I will need about 40 more of them but they are ridiculously cheap from Toolstation so that's not a problem. Will also need a few bags of the roofing-bolts too. I used 20mm. 25mm would be better but I think 30mm is next size available front boards slotted together (order might be wrong)side boards slotted togetherneed a little cut off from two boardsframe offered up to tailgate boards (note rusting on frame)trying out roofing bolts. some holes need drilled in new woodfitting straps to side boardsstraps not drilled/placed in exact same position either side which helped finding correct positions for boardstee-nutswhat length is best? don't want thread protruding out of the nutusing normal bolt and small socket to pull tee-nuts home10 of 12 done on tailgate20mm bolts a little short.25mm would be ideal
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Last Edit: Jun 29, 2024 1:43:31 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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So I thought I was making good progress and then there's a step back.... Anyone who has been following this thread might remember the metric/Imperial wheel-bearing saga where I ended up with a useless spare-wheel then another trailer (ie this one) Well when I was ordering the new bearings the other night I thought the old ones looked kinda familiar and, sure enough, the ones from the 'useless' red wheel were identical. As was the oil-seal. So I figured I now have a spare which, as well as being useful if you get a puncture, would look cool mounted on the trailer - probably on the front panel. This wheel is actually in really good nick and as I wasn't too concerned about holding up the project by not being able to get the tyre back on I whipped it off and painted the whole wheel. Great. I got home from a job yesterday (Saturday) to find my new wheel-bearings had arrived and, despite being tired, had to go back out to the barn late at night to get a hundred things sorted for the job today Once that was done I had a go at getting the tyre and tube back on the spare and the tyre was easy. Tube a bit more tricky so left that and started on the bearings. What could be easier? Just tap them in with the old bearing and once it disappears into the bore drive it fully home with a socket that just touches the outer race. Well I did that and could feel the bearing was getting rather notchy. Actually very notchy I checked another one and it was spinning lovely but they seem to be just oiled rather than greased so I told myself that was all that was wrong and tried to pack the notchy one from outside. For the next one I greased it before drifting it in (also remembering to put the distance-piece in first) but that ended up notchy too. So is it my fault for buying 4 bearings for £20 and expecting them to survive 'install' or is it my fault for drifting them in? I do have a press but not sure the wheel would fit in the frame. Suppose I could take tyre off again and try it. A easier option might be to try and draw the next ones in with threaded rod etc. I'll not be back on it now for days as have jobs I can't get out of to go to spare wheel after wizzy-wheelingpainted4 delivered for -£20R16 (instead of EE9) is apparently an Imperial bearing sold with weird metric measurementsOD looks identicalas does width/thicknessas does ID
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2024 22:15:23 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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I would expect to be able to drift them in with a socket on the outer race like you did.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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So I've not updated this for a while as I'm getting into a project that's been waiting nearly 40 years (1973 Yamaha RD125) but made a wee bit progress today. I think last time I was musing about lights etc on the tailgate which lead to me looking at 'period' style number-plate lamps which meant I could then stick the trailer lights I already have ouside the metal bars on the tailgate. After looking at loads of chrome Lucas lamps in various conditions i spotted someone selling similar-looking ones but in black. I thought that would be easier to paint (blue) than chrome and the seller actually showed them working so I took the plunge and got the pair for £20 posted. I'll only use one on the blue trailer but that leaves on for the green trailer too. Now I'll need to work out how to piggy-back on to the tail-light wiring circuit from the actual trailer lights to work the number-plate lamp and will prolly need to black-out the side-shining feature on those light too (the lenses are clear on the inner face) After getting the lamps I was looking at number-plates and it suddenly struck me I could use a square one, instead of the normal oblong type. If I got one of those I won't really need the number-plate lamp as the trailer lights and the square plate will all fit inboard of the metal frame. The area in between the frame is 24" wide. The square plate is 11" wide and the lamps 4" wide (each) so I would have 5" to spare. I think you also need triangular reflectors on the back as well as the lights so need to see how they fit in as they looked a bit weird stuck on close together in the initial pics. It was also back to the wheels today. I decided the if these new bearings are so rubbish that they can't survive being drifted in I'd use the 2 remaining ones on my spare wheel and get better ones for the real wheels. Turns out the wheel, without tyre, does fit in my press and I had the bearing(s) pressed in in a jiffy. I also remembered to put th distance-piece in before pressing in the 2nd bearing and this lead to a strange discovery... So I have 5 old trailer wheels (plus a brand-new one) and have taken the bearings out of all the old ones. I couldn't remember off-hand where all the sets of bearings/seals/distance-pieces were but found the ones that I thought were off the odd wheel but the distance piece seemed a tad longer than the gap in the wheel between the bearing 'shoulders'. I don't know if they are meant to be like this but it didn't seem right for them to stop the bearing(s) going fully hoe so I ground a little off the end so it's now flush with the housing. After that I greased the bearings, pressed the other one in and tapped a new seal home then finished off by fully-fitting the original tyre and tube and putting some air in it. SO now I need at least two new (quality) bearings for the remaining proper wheel but should really get four. pair of number-plate lamps for the trailer(s) wiring on both looks ok but one has had a 'repair' mounting studs look ok made in England distance piece seemed a little too long (wasn't flush with bearing housing( end ground down till it was flush with hub pressing bearing in job done new seal on rear tube and tyre refitted and air added
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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So a little more progress (been side-lined with my Yamaha RD125 project) on the trailer. I got another 2 bearings. They were £8.08 (posted) so actually cheaper than the set of 4 I bought before. They look identical. IE R16 on them and no brand-name. So I fitted these and a new oil-seal to the other original wheel - after painting the back of that, which I hadn't got round to. So I now have bearings in all three wheels and oil-seals in 2 of them. Forgot to buy another seal. I'll probably just stick one of the old ones in the wheel which has the ruined bearings in it as they'll probably need to come back out These latest bearings were put in with the press again. I managed to do this with the tyre on as it just squeezed into the frame of the press. It's not going to work using the spare on one side of the trailer as the tyre has a taller profile despite being same size (4.80/4.00). It would be fine as a spare I guess but would be lop-sided in normal use. I've also went thru another 2 packs of the tee-nuts on the boards. No pics of this but that's the side panels properly connected together now. Next step will be to get more tee-nuts for attaching the panels to the trailer frame. I also got my square number-plate today so can start working out where that will go with the lights and reflectors. I have had the little metal plates, that (presumably) are for tying down a cover, sitting in a tub of vinegar to remove the rust but it wasn't working that quickly so I finished them off with the wire wheel yesterday and got some blue paint on them. They are drying on nails and I can put another coat on today perhaps all the wheels now have bearings. spare wheel (at front) has taller tyre than the originals back of tabs after soaking in vinegar front of tabs after soaking in vinegar backs after wizzy-wheel fronts tabs painted
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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So, yesterday. I ended up putting most of the trailer back together. I hadn't planned to do so but kinda need space to move on to other things. First issue was that one of the finished wheels I pumped up the tyre on was flat already. How the hell can it get a puncture when not in use? It wasn't punctured when I towed it home a year ago. This meant taking the tyre off which I really hadn't planned, or wanted, to do. It came off without too much trauma to the rim and when I tested the tube it was fine. It was the valve that was leaking. I took it out, gave it a wipe and put it back in tight. The tube was still holding ait and firm a few hours later. As the tyre was off I thought I'd be as well cleaning the rim and giving it a coat of paint. Am feeling quite disheartened about the painting now tbh after seeing the rust coming back on many of the bits I painted last year. having said that I have metal parts the at were much much rustier than the trailer that were also brush-painted in Hammerite and no rust has came back on those. I think the secret is several coats. One or two isn't enough. Anyway. Due to this faff with the tube I put on one original wheel and the spare and they feel great. No wobble on the wheels. maybe a little noise from the spare which I'm blaming on that distance-piece being too tight, despite me cutting it down. I now need to get dust covers for the end of the axles. The trailer only had 1 (yellow plastic with traces of the green/brown paint that was on the trailer) so I measured that for getting replacements. It seems to be 52mm or 2 1/20" I'm sure I'll have problems with this as, going back to all my previous posts about different hubs and bearings, the wheels are all different. I tired the sole cap in the spare yesterday and it didn't go in despite that wheel having the EE9/R16 bearings tube out of original wheel to check for puncturebubbles were coming from valve this wasn't tight enough may as well clean the inside of the rim when tyre is off took about 10 mins to do this painted and original dust-cap offered up 52mm cap on an Imperial wheel? maybe it's 2.05" issues TBC
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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Rather than add to the last post I'll just continue what I was saying. Tbh there are so many pics and so much rambling to do that it's a bit wearing but yeah, where was I? Yes it was back on its wheels and I started offering-up the boards. First was the tailgate. That was easy as they were all screwed on and I wanted to do that one as I was keen to see what my new 'square' number-plate looked like on it. Straight away there was an issue. The tailgate wouldn't close on the RHS and it's also proving difficult to engage the locking thing (can't remember what they are called). It looked to me like the bottom board (which is all new) was too long altho it looked a similar length to the ones above it. I dug out the rotted original and it was a little shorter so I cut it down but then the 2nd one up needed brought in line a little. After that the tailgate would shut but it's not locating properly on the catch above. In short the upright has obviously been welded on a little differently than it was originally. That's what you get for trying to make it all 'square' I guess So that's something that'll need a bit of thought. After that I tried the front panel and there's a minor issue and a major one there. The first issue is that I used new angle-iron for the repair to the front rail and (as I said way back then) it's not the same size. I did trim it down in visible places where it met old metal but didn't for see the issue it would cause on the front where the whole rail is new and wasn't .'. trimmed down. The bottom boards have a lip on them so they sit nice and flush with the edge of the angle-iron but because this metal is wider the board would have to sit up a little higher. Having said that the boards, as a whole, at the front seemed to sit a bit lower when I was mocking things up yesterday so perhaps it won't matter. If it does I'll need to slice 5mm or so (neatly) off the top of the front rail. The big issue with the front panel is the width.... As mentioned above when I did the repairs to the bottoms of the uprights I made an effort to weld them back on 'square' but without offering up the original wood (which was in bits and being repaired at the time). Now the boards aren't touching on both sides. I checked the width of the frame at the bottom and top (up front) and it's only out by 1/8" or so but the gap is considerable. This means that the uprights must have been pointing in towards each other at the top originally. I guess I have 2 choices: cut and reweld the frame or alter the wood. I guess the easiest way to alter the wood would be to add something in the middle. I said before that I was thinking about mounting the spare-wheel there so I could perhaps put a metal post in the middle (to mount the wheel on) that will also push the wood outwards. I got more lucky with the side panels. Looks like I put all the boards back together in right order as the mounting holes were meeting up (metal to wood) but there are a cople of issues where the boards meet certain parts of the frame and are a bit tight. Also the bottom board on the RHS wasn't put in as the t&G on that and the one above it are a little tight so will need shaved down or re-routered. After all this palaver and seeing that I still have work to do in all four corners (metal bars at front and wooden posts at back) I'd lost enthusiasm for sorting out the positioning of the number-plate, lights at reflectors on the tailgate axle and wheels back ontailgate hung back onbottom board fouling framethis side fineoriginal bit of wood used to check lengthbolt-hole lined-up and it is a bit shortercatch is aligning ok on this sidebut not this onebottom front board sitting with its indent below the top of rail should be sitting up on top of the rail but this might make the front panel too highfront upright(s) not close enough together for original boards to fill the space
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2024 21:31:54 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,075
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tailgate hung back on May just be the angle of the picture but in the above picture the distance from the bottom round bar to the locating hole of the first piece of wood looks different, i.e. the LHS looks closer to the bar than the RHS ? IF you see what I mean
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
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Thanks jimiI'll have a look at that but most of these holes (in the wood) are the original holes I only drilled new holes in bits where the wood was replaced and the full bottom bit is new so that's possible. I think my error is with welding the upright on
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2024 23:40:21 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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I can be rather brutal at times so this may not suit but I would Put a ratchet strap round the front and pull the sides in ro where they need to be
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